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Popular Content
Showing content with the highest reputation on 10/13/2023 in Posts
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8 pointsLast ride for the motorcycle season (not putting away the bicycle just yet). Did 110 miles with my dad. Stopped at a cool damn for a couple pics and grabbed lunch at a diner. Great day! That last pic of the little note and the Boy Scout compass on his bikes “ dash” are my dads GPS
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5 points
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5 points
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5 pointsWhile I have a bagger for my 48" deck, I am grinding up as many leaves as possible both for leaving nutrients on the lawn and less issue dealing with the bags of leaves. However, this keeps stirring up the leaves and they are getting sucked onto the engine air screen on the big Onan. Easiest way to keep it clear is to use a car snow brush but sometimes I need both of my hands to drive. Therefor a brush holder was required. Since my machines are all in restored excellent condition I am hesitant to bolt on a brush holder. Then it dawned on mt to use the rear bagger support and simply clamp on a piece of pipe. Works well and if I need the bagger installed then I just remove the pipe.
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4 pointsGotta agree with @Achto, fuelpump diaphragm goes bad but is easily rebuildable. Just make sure you don't loose the tiny springs and put them in the right way. If memory serves me right you can rebuild the carb without taking it off the engine. Taryl Fixes All on YouTube has a good video about the Briggs and carb online.
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4 pointsThe opposed B&S engines are known for having fuel pump issues, diaphragm dries out if they sit for long periods. Easy to rebuild and the kits are available from B&S.
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4 pointsNo more pain. My 4-pack of Hillman spacers showed up, so I cut the bloody thing. After a little cleanup, the spacer fits perfectly, so I can put it back together nicely. I do appreciate all the ideas though... I have a feeling this isn't the last steering wheel I will wrestle with. [edit to add:] Oh, and since I think I've drilled out at least most of the roll pin, I won't be surprised after I get this back together and try to drive it, that the steering wheel just pops off.
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4 pointsOnly way to go! Ford solenoids cost less and last forever.
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3 points
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3 points@BairleaFarm There are two styles of pumps for the opposed B&S, one with 3 mounting holes & one with 4 mounting holes. B&S part # for 3 hole 393397 - more common & usually the less expensive of the 2 B&S part # for 4 hole 693502 - less common & the more expensive of the 2. These are both available aftermarket as well for a lower price.
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3 pointsI have a 312-8 setup as a plow machine too. Great machine, sips gas! I have front and rear weights, chains on the rears and #40 chain wrapped around the fronts for steering. I hope it stays parked! Lol
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3 pointsA rear axle built for pulling may not be the best for maneuvering in the woods if the pinions are welded
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3 pointsto the I'm a Hydro only guy, but the 312-8 or H is a great plow machine. Add weight front and rear and and chains.
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3 pointsI have multiple tractors so I bought one of these kits. https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/tisco-spark-plug-wire-set-sws260 They are copper core & I had enough to do 7 tractors.
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3 points
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3 pointsI woke up several hours earlier than usual so I could be early at hospital to be slightly tortured with multiple injections so they could finally dig into my bone marrow. This of course preceded by signing multiple documents rivaling a mortgage application. And of course such as in granting of a mortgage paying for one’s decisions afterwards and worrying about the results. A good day altogether .
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3 points@TonyToro Jr. and I did some work on his C145. We fixed the broken muffler and installed a new solenoid. I was tired of replacing with tractor supply solenoids so I figured these worked all these years on old Ford trucks so they should be fine on old garden tractors. So far so good. 👍
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3 pointsI know Gravely used a flywheel screen cleaner, but that would not work on the WH twin having the stationary plastic guard. @Ed Kennell you need to cabbage an old windshield wiper motor and arm, you could even set it on intermittent wipe!
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2 pointsI got hurt years ago and am unable to walk the woods. I think an overland mower build is next up on my conversion. I found a 8 speed that was built for pulling that ill be picking up tomorrow. What motor is this? I am sure it wasn't stock. Pics to follow on the horse when I get it home.
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2 pointsHey all. I have a Electro 12 with a factory belly blade. It runs* and drives. I had used it to grade my driveway the last 6 yrs. Having moved I'm looking at my options on storing it or selling it. Frankly I have no idea what it is worth. I watched "ISaveTractors" video on 5 things to do with a new to you wheel horse/12hp kohler. (When i got it 6yrs ago) And went thru and did the adjustments and replaced the parts mentioned. It has been a good strong tractor for me until around July of this year. (2023) *Around July it started dying after running 20-30min. I replaced the carb (Chinese Amazon purchase) with one from isavetractors web site. That seemed to help it idle smoother(the old carbs jets wouldnt adjust), but it still dies at around 20-30min. So I've got 2 questions. 1. What is it worth? (As-Is) and 2. What do I need to do to fix it? Thanks yall!
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2 pointsI bought this at the Temple Tractor Show Saturday. Had a full little trailer, so a friend and I went to pick it up today. Very excited with this tractor and got to spend 2+ hours wandering around 20/30 acres of antique cars, tractors, machinery, etc. The two old brothers sell parts, and restore Model A's, T's, and tractors when their not running goats on their old family ranch in the middle of no-where. The brothers were a wealth of knowledge, and super friendly. We Drooled like two kids in a Candy Store! Mayraths were built between 149-52. Reportedly about 500 were built. This is a Standard Model, The Deluxe Model had a sheet metal body. The Mayrath Co. built grain augers, so this has a rear PO that could power an auger and sickle mower. you could also get a front plow, rear plow and other implements for it. I have a video of it running and driving, but need a little Love. I need to learn how to create a Youtube account to post videos'. Grandson already claimed it! Serial #167 Briggs Model 14 engine, runs but needs a spring on the throttle/governor linkage. Found an identical Briggs Model 14 on a sheep shearing rig and got measurements on the governor spring I need. T92 transmission used on many old garden tractors such as Power Kings. Top speed reportedly 25-30MPH...WOW Dana gears in rear end. Very simple brakes, on each side. Ross Steering Box Steering tube was cut, probable for a repair sometime in its past. Very weldable. Now will the steering wheel carefully come off to fix it right! The engine is mounted on a hinged platform. The clutch pedal tilts the platform to slack the drive belt. A large spring keeps tension on holding the engine platform down. Everything is very simple on this tractor. This is a picture of the Deluxe Model with sheet metal This is a picture of a Basic model like mine, restored. My wife likes it painted up colorful like this. I'll gently clean it up and see how much original paint is really left. For now it will stay with the patina look and get the mechanicals fixed up. Here's a few of our other fun spottings for the day! @Pullstart could make this custom super short school bus body Maybe a Homolite garden tractor? Late 50's/early 60's Cadillac DeVille Fordson with and "Industrial conversion kit that gave it a wider/heavier front end and a heavy rear axle with a "pin" to move old semi trailers around, like a shipping yard tractor @ebinmaine Case tractor with a bucket wheel trencher and a front end loader 5 man sheep& goat sheering rig. There were a ton of Model T's and A's parts and carcasses. We were ask not to take pictures of the restored ones they had in buildings. They had a beautiful original condition Model T with a wood grain box bed. IMG_0282[1].MOV
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2 pointsWrap a piece of #40 roller chain length wise around the fronts. Tight with no air, then air'em up until the tire bulges to get them really tight. If they're not super tight they will roll or work their way off the sides. A testament to how much side pressure they are holding and keeping the steering better aimed under harsh conditions.
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2 pointsHow about a strobe from a commercial van. Like a Verizon van uses. You're close so send me your address through a PM and I'll send it if you can use it. No charge
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2 points
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2 points@Pullstart could give you some tips on which piece of greasy cardboard/cahdboahd to use I love to do lists in the shop!
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2 points@Pullstart could give you some tips on which piece of greasy cardboard/cahdboahd to use. (I had to put both pronunciations of the word so you and him would both know what I wroted.
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2 points
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2 pointsLooks a lot like a Briggs to me. They sure do sound good when they’re running smooth!
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2 pointsLove mine. Thirty five years old and still working great. Your 312-8 looks like is has been treated very well.
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2 pointsI am not sure of thr part number, but I have been using NAPA replacenent coil wires to fit a 6 cylinder Ford Econoline for years on 2 8HP tractors. Nice fit, no issues. Carbon filled "string" innards, 7 mm OD.
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2 pointsGentlemen, again Red Square hits paydirt. I've had a look round the Web and found what I think are just the hinges for the job. 90 degree opening so they will hold the trap door up as a side wall when open to prevent falling in. perfect for the style of door i am thinking aboit. Plenty of literature with them so I'm going to buy a set to play with and develop the idea. To answer questions asked in your responses, yes its going to be weight bearing but it's along a wall so won't be stepped on all the time. Yes it's going to be flush fitting and as near invisible as I can achieve. I may look at some kind of actuator to lift it, probably electric, but air would be fun as I have a huge compressor feed.
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2 points
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2 pointsLooks like a very well kept . In my opinion if you sell it you will regret it, Nice vintage garden tractors like yours are hard to find.
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2 pointsAs mike said, buy a new condenser and be sure to get the correct one and mount it with the wire pointing down. If the wire is pointing up some of the snow you are blowing will land on the condenser, melt and compromise the operation of your ignition system. The Kohler 230722 Condenser fits all battery ignition single cylinder and twin cylinder from the K-90 to the K-582. The 235786 condensers are for the magneto equipped Kohler engines only K-161 to K-301 The unit of measure for a condenser is the Farad. Many electronic components like radios and TVs use capacitors that are in the microfarad range (ten to the minus six power Farads) and our small engines use a condenser that is in the nanofarad range (ten to the minus ninth power Farads) which is based on the voltage range they work in. A magneto ignition system uses a 100 to 250 nF condenser and a battery ignition system uses a 200 to 500 nF condenser. A good multi-meter will have a capacitor testing function. Armed with this information you can walk into your auto parts store and get a very confused look on the face of the person on the other side of the counter. The capacitance is not listed on the package and probably not in any of the on-line data they have for the condensers they stock. You just have to go by the application chart and be sure that the condenser you are buying is for the type ignition system your engine has, not just the horsepower or engine size. If an engine idles well, but runs erratically when revved up, like it hits and misses, pops and backfires, then chances are, it needs a new condenser/capacitor. And always install a condenser/capacitor with the wire facing downward so rain water and/or when washing off engine, water will not enter inside condenser/capacitor, ruining it. With water inside the condenser, this will also allow it to idle well, but cause it to run erratically when revved up. What is a farad (F)? A farad (F) is the standard unit of capacitance (C) in the International System of Units (SI). It indicates the ability of a substance to hold an electric charge. The value of most electrical capacitors is expressed in farads, microfarads (µF) or nanofarads (nF)
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2 pointsThe BBT and I re started training in the new dojo. We've done some short time training and other cardio workouts there but this was the first time we've done a decent martial arts workout. After that we did use the machines for just a bit as well.
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2 pointsNice of you to hang out on the ground whilst the poor doggie does all the driving!!
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2 pointsThe guy I use down the street, seems to love it when I stop by because it's not the normal stuff he's use to doing so it gives him something different to do and I think he likes the challenges. He's the guy I used to build me a new shaft for this blower when I went through it. My dad was good with that stuff, man the things he would build always amazed me, but I was more into small engines, fishing and hunting. Now I wish I sat there and watched him more, although he did teach me a lot about welding and working with metal, but it was just enough to make me dangerous, lol. Growing up my Dad would sell Rupp snow mobiles for extra cash right off our front porch in the '70's, so we grew up on Rupp snowmobiles and mini bikes and so on but we were far from rich we just knew how to fix things and keep them going. Sorry for the rant lol, I'll get back out in the garage now, lol.
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1 pointHey guys, Been awhile, in between I bought a 1987 Chevrolet 3/4 project that I wanted to share with you. Here I have pictures from 5 mins ago.
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1 pointSunday is the day for her bed to be put back on and take for a drive! There will be an update then. Thanks to yall’ who are viewing
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1 pointSame displacement, same intake, same block, crank, compression...but 0.030 more intake lift and a step richer main jet to compliment it, made 2hp more. I read some years ago that the 220 cam had just a marginally wider duration on both Intake and exhaust, would explain the power increase. Id love to put an 18 and 20 cam in a cam doctor and get the exact numbers.
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1 pointI could be jumping the gun but I ordered a aftermarket carb for tomorrow. Seller says it needs carb work. Been in a barn for years. Good to know the briggs could be a good runner for me.
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1 pointThat's definitely reasonable! $5 a tractor -- not bad! I have 3, so I'll need 4 more tractors...
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1 point
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1 pointReading this manual that I just found on here of Matt's early kit seems like he used a brake pedal with a bolt on adapter. Wheel Horse Hydro Foot Pedal Instructions V1B.pdf I would stick with the ball bearing on the motion block that Matt switched to later on (likely how your kit is).
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1 pointHave you ever tried a rust converter product? Turns it to black oxide and there's quite a few different ones out there. Some brush, some spray like this one
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1 pointJealous here . Just kidding.... mostly. Not so much wishing I had my own dojo, because I don't have anyone to train/spar with here. But thinking I need to get back to going to Taekwondo like I used to...
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1 pointThanks for the info and advice ebinmaine! I'll try to add a photo, but it has points and the can style coil. I'll pick up a spark tester before I look into things. I took note of the REBUILT KOHLER in caps. 😁 duely noted sir, Thanks. The generator is something my grandfather had attached to his wheel horse for power outages. I didn't include it because I have not run it to see if it still works. Thanks for the advice!
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1 pointI feel your pain! The key to roll pin removal in my experience is to use the correct diameter punch, a large lump hammer and most importantly, the steering wheel boss needs to be solidly supported. It is nearly impossible to remove the pin with the tractor assembled unless you can provide robust lateral support to withstand the hammer blows, so it's MUCH easier with the column and dashboard removed. Column horizontal with the boss supported in a shaped wooden block helps greatly. Unfortunately with the two C series wheels that I have removed, the wheels had seized on the shaft and with the roll pin removed, it was impossible to apply sufficient torque to break the grip. The 518H 'modern style' wheels have aluminium bosses (if I recall correctly) and in my case, were loose/sloppy on the columns....so just fell off once the pins were out. The C series boss is steel and the smallest amount of rust is sufficient to cause the seizure. Luckily, the centre cap can be levered out with a smallish screwdriver, but it is likely you will cause some 'bruising' doing this. Once the cap is off, you might have to remove some excess plastic (non-structural) that usually covers the hole in the boss. Drill that through and you have access to the end of the column. I have a 20t press but I didn't come close to using it's full capacity. The wheel boss needs to be fully supported on a flat surface (with a hole for the column to extend through) and the column should then easily press out. I tried using a three leg puller (better than a two leg puller on a three spoke wheel!) Instead of the press, but it damaged the rear of the wheel boss. I imagine a large steel washer might provide adequate support....but I used my press! I also imagine that if you properly support the wheel boss, you could knock the column out with a hammer and a drift. If you can't get to the end of the column to press it out then you might be able to use a slide hammer, again if you properly support the boss. Finally, I have successfully removed the steering gear from the bottom of the column by grinding the weld off, so that method of dismantling should be possible too.
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1 pointI'll be in touch with you ebinmaine if I have no luck down here and I thank you for the offer. It's not so much cheap as it is I guess a fair reasonable price is all. I'd really like barter some wheel horse parts I have here that I have no use for, if possible to someone who may be interested as well. As far as the front tires go, I'll see what I can't do it'll definitely be more time consuming lol that's for sure. I think it'll look like a snow tire / rib design, that's my guess. I'll let you know soon enough, thanks for the idea.
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1 pointHad alot of fun with the tractor Saturday. Grandpa drove it around town and loved it. Unfortunate I didnt get a chance to get a picture of him riding it as I was taking care of the kids. But my Brother in law and Nephew drove it through the parade and loved it. I had at least ten people try and buy it, looks like im hooked and looking for a couple more.