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Last ride for the motorcycle season (not putting away the bicycle just yet). Did 110 miles with my dad. Stopped at a cool damn for a couple pics and grabbed lunch at a diner. Great day! That last pic of the little note and the Boy Scout compass on his bikes “ dash” are my dads GPS

I picked up a 312-8 to plow the driveway this winter.

While I have a bagger for my 48" deck, I am grinding up as many leaves as possible both for leaving nutrients on the lawn and less issue dealing with the bags of leaves. However, this keeps stirring up the leaves and they are getting sucked onto the engine air screen on the big Onan. Easiest way to keep it clear is to use a car snow brush but sometimes I need both of my hands to drive. Therefor a brush holder was required. Since my machines are all in restored excellent condition I am hesitant to bolt on a brush holder. Then it dawned on mt to use the rear bagger support and simply clamp on a piece of pipe. Works well and if I need the bagger installed then I just remove the pipe.

Gotta agree with @Achto, fuelpump diaphragm goes bad but is easily rebuildable. Just make sure you don't loose the tiny springs and put them in the right way. If memory serves me right you can rebuild the carb without taking it off the engine. Taryl Fixes All on YouTube has a good video about the Briggs and carb online.

The opposed B&S engines are known for having fuel pump issues, diaphragm dries out if they sit for long periods. Easy to rebuild and the kits are available from B&S.

No more pain. My 4-pack of Hillman spacers showed up, so I cut the bloody thing. After a little cleanup, the spacer fits perfectly, so I can put it back together nicely. I do appreciate all the ideas though... I have a feeling this isn't the last steering wheel I will wrestle with. [edit to add:] Oh, and since I think I've drilled out at least most of the roll pin, I won't be surprised after I get this back together and try to drive it, that the steering wheel just pops off.

Only way to go! Ford solenoids cost less and last forever.

Back to Florida for a quick rustling

@BairleaFarm There are two styles of pumps for the opposed B&S, one with 3 mounting holes & one with 4 mounting holes. B&S part # for 3 hole 393397 - more common & usually the less expensive of the 2 B&S part # for 4 hole 693502 - less common & the more expensive of the 2. These are both available aftermarket as well for a lower price.

I have a 312-8 setup as a plow machine too. Great machine, sips gas! I have front and rear weights, chains on the rears and #40 chain wrapped around the fronts for steering. I hope it stays parked! Lol

A rear axle built for pulling may not be the best for maneuvering in the woods if the pinions are welded

to the I'm a Hydro only guy, but the 312-8 or H is a great plow machine. Add weight front and rear and and chains.

I have multiple tractors so I bought one of these kits. https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/tisco-spark-plug-wire-set-sws260 They are copper core & I had enough to do 7 tractors.

to RS and the 312-8 club. Great tractor.

I woke up several hours earlier than usual so I could be early at hospital to be slightly tortured with multiple injections so they could finally dig into my bone marrow. This of course preceded by signing multiple documents rivaling a mortgage application. And of course such as in granting of a mortgage paying for one’s decisions afterwards and worrying about the results. A good day altogether .

@TonyToro Jr. and I did some work on his C145. We fixed the broken muffler and installed a new solenoid. I was tired of replacing with tractor supply solenoids so I figured these worked all these years on old Ford trucks so they should be fine on old garden tractors. So far so good. 👍

I know Gravely used a flywheel screen cleaner, but that would not work on the WH twin having the stationary plastic guard. @Ed Kennell you need to cabbage an old windshield wiper motor and arm, you could even set it on intermittent wipe!

I got hurt years ago and am unable to walk the woods. I think an overland mower build is next up on my conversion. I found a 8 speed that was built for pulling that ill be picking up tomorrow. What motor is this? I am sure it wasn't stock. Pics to follow on the horse when I get it home.

Hey all. I have a Electro 12 with a factory belly blade. It runs* and drives. I had used it to grade my driveway the last 6 yrs. Having moved I'm looking at my options on storing it or selling it. Frankly I have no idea what it is worth. I watched "ISaveTractors" video on 5 things to do with a new to you wheel horse/12hp kohler. (When i got it 6yrs ago) And went thru and did the adjustments and replaced the parts mentioned. It has been a good strong tractor for me until around July of this year. (2023) *Around July it started dying after running 20-30min. I replaced the carb (Chinese Amazon purchase) with one from isavetractors web site. That seemed to help it idle smoother(the old carbs jets wouldnt adjust), but it still dies at around 20-30min. So I've got 2 questions. 1. What is it worth? (As-Is) and 2. What do I need to do to fix it? Thanks yall!

I bought this at the Temple Tractor Show Saturday. Had a full little trailer, so a friend and I went to pick it up today. Very excited with this tractor and got to spend 2+ hours wandering around 20/30 acres of antique cars, tractors, machinery, etc. The two old brothers sell parts, and restore Model A's, T's, and tractors when their not running goats on their old family ranch in the middle of no-where. The brothers were a wealth of knowledge, and super friendly. We Drooled like two kids in a Candy Store! Mayraths were built between 149-52. Reportedly about 500 were built. This is a Standard Model, The Deluxe Model had a sheet metal body. The Mayrath Co. built grain augers, so this has a rear PO that could power an auger and sickle mower. you could also get a front plow, rear plow and other implements for it. I have a video of it running and driving, but need a little Love. I need to learn how to create a Youtube account to post videos'. Grandson already claimed it! Serial #167 Briggs Model 14 engine, runs but needs a spring on the throttle/governor linkage. Found an identical Briggs Model 14 on a sheep shearing rig and got measurements on the governor spring I need. T92 transmission used on many old garden tractors such as Power Kings. Top speed reportedly 25-30MPH...WOW Dana gears in rear end. Very simple brakes, on each side. Ross Steering Box Steering tube was cut, probable for a repair sometime in its past. Very weldable. Now will the steering wheel carefully come off to fix it right! The engine is mounted on a hinged platform. The clutch pedal tilts the platform to slack the drive belt. A large spring keeps tension on holding the engine platform down. Everything is very simple on this tractor. This is a picture of the Deluxe Model with sheet metal This is a picture of a Basic model like mine, restored. My wife likes it painted up colorful like this. I'll gently clean it up and see how much original paint is really left. For now it will stay with the patina look and get the mechanicals fixed up. Here's a few of our other fun spottings for the day! @Pullstart could make this custom super short school bus body Maybe a Homolite garden tractor? Late 50's/early 60's Cadillac DeVille Fordson with and "Industrial conversion kit that gave it a wider/heavier front end and a heavy rear axle with a "pin" to move old semi trailers around, like a shipping yard tractor @ebinmaine Case tractor with a bucket wheel trencher and a front end loader 5 man sheep& goat sheering rig. There were a ton of Model T's and A's parts and carcasses. We were ask not to take pictures of the restored ones they had in buildings. They had a beautiful original condition Model T with a wood grain box bed. IMG_0282[1].MOV

Wrap a piece of #40 roller chain length wise around the fronts. Tight with no air, then air'em up until the tire bulges to get them really tight. If they're not super tight they will roll or work their way off the sides. A testament to how much side pressure they are holding and keeping the steering better aimed under harsh conditions.

How about a strobe from a commercial van. Like a Verizon van uses. You're close so send me your address through a PM and I'll send it if you can use it. No charge

I use to have a plow truck so I know a little about pushing and pilling snow,

@Pullstart could give you some tips on which piece of greasy cardboard/cahdboahd to use I love to do lists in the shop!

@Pullstart could give you some tips on which piece of greasy cardboard/cahdboahd to use. (I had to put both pronunciations of the word so you and him would both know what I wroted.

Found it!

Looks a lot like a Briggs to me. They sure do sound good when they’re running smooth!

Love mine. Thirty five years old and still working great. Your 312-8 looks like is has been treated very well.

I am not sure of thr part number, but I have been using NAPA replacenent coil wires to fit a 6 cylinder Ford Econoline for years on 2 8HP tractors. Nice fit, no issues. Carbon filled "string" innards, 7 mm OD.

Gentlemen, again Red Square hits paydirt. I've had a look round the Web and found what I think are just the hinges for the job. 90 degree opening so they will hold the trap door up as a side wall when open to prevent falling in. perfect for the style of door i am thinking aboit. Plenty of literature with them so I'm going to buy a set to play with and develop the idea. To answer questions asked in your responses, yes its going to be weight bearing but it's along a wall so won't be stepped on all the time. Yes it's going to be flush fitting and as near invisible as I can achieve. I may look at some kind of actuator to lift it, probably electric, but air would be fun as I have a huge compressor feed.

Great Tractor! It's amazing how much weights, fluid filled tires and chain can do.

Looks like a very well kept . In my opinion if you sell it you will regret it, Nice vintage garden tractors like yours are hard to find.

As mike said, buy a new condenser and be sure to get the correct one and mount it with the wire pointing down. If the wire is pointing up some of the snow you are blowing will land on the condenser, melt and compromise the operation of your ignition system. The Kohler 230722 Condenser fits all battery ignition single cylinder and twin cylinder from the K-90 to the K-582. The 235786 condensers are for the magneto equipped Kohler engines only K-161 to K-301 The unit of measure for a condenser is the Farad. Many electronic components like radios and TVs use capacitors that are in the microfarad range (ten to the minus six power Farads) and our small engines use a condenser that is in the nanofarad range (ten to the minus ninth power Farads) which is based on the voltage range they work in. A magneto ignition system uses a 100 to 250 nF condenser and a battery ignition system uses a 200 to 500 nF condenser. A good multi-meter will have a capacitor testing function. Armed with this information you can walk into your auto parts store and get a very confused look on the face of the person on the other side of the counter. The capacitance is not listed on the package and probably not in any of the on-line data they have for the condensers they stock. You just have to go by the application chart and be sure that the condenser you are buying is for the type ignition system your engine has, not just the horsepower or engine size. If an engine idles well, but runs erratically when revved up, like it hits and misses, pops and backfires, then chances are, it needs a new condenser/capacitor. And always install a condenser/capacitor with the wire facing downward so rain water and/or when washing off engine, water will not enter inside condenser/capacitor, ruining it. With water inside the condenser, this will also allow it to idle well, but cause it to run erratically when revved up. What is a farad (F)? A farad (F) is the standard unit of capacitance (C) in the International System of Units (SI). It indicates the ability of a substance to hold an electric charge. The value of most electrical capacitors is expressed in farads, microfarads (µF) or nanofarads (nF)

The BBT and I re started training in the new dojo. We've done some short time training and other cardio workouts there but this was the first time we've done a decent martial arts workout. After that we did use the machines for just a bit as well.

Nice of you to hang out on the ground whilst the poor doggie does all the driving!!

The guy I use down the street, seems to love it when I stop by because it's not the normal stuff he's use to doing so it gives him something different to do and I think he likes the challenges. He's the guy I used to build me a new shaft for this blower when I went through it. My dad was good with that stuff, man the things he would build always amazed me, but I was more into small engines, fishing and hunting. Now I wish I sat there and watched him more, although he did teach me a lot about welding and working with metal, but it was just enough to make me dangerous, lol. Growing up my Dad would sell Rupp snow mobiles for extra cash right off our front porch in the '70's, so we grew up on Rupp snowmobiles and mini bikes and so on but we were far from rich we just knew how to fix things and keep them going. Sorry for the rant lol, I'll get back out in the garage now, lol.

Hmmm. That fake grass is not all that comfy with bare feet, in my experience!

CCW yes the head clearance end will have a hinge up flap to allow me to walk down without banging my crust. Doing the work myself will allow me to design around the issues I find as I go along. Having a door made would be more expensive and not exactly as needed fir the conditions I have. I'm also going to hinge the floor trapdoor to the right hand side looking down the stairs to provide a barrier when it's open.

Yeah, when we were young and broke, we used non-oem solenoids on our Mustangs and they would inevitably stick and leave the car cranking after it started. Have a hammer or a rock handy to whack it! After that, I started using OEM solenoids... never had a problem after that. Today I worked on the GT14. Changed the plug, wire and I'm going to give it an oil change in a little bit. I fixed up my ammeter bypass with a proper barrel connector and head shrink tubing, fixing the rig that I had on there, that was supposed to be temporary, from about 2 years ago haha. Waiting for my cheap little voltmeter to come from Amazon today so I can install it in my 3d printed flange. This is a temporary thing until my custom gauge arrives in about 2-3 months. Putting some fresh TruFuel in and going to start her up and take her for a ride.

Simple answer: quite a bit! As @ebinmaine noted, dry vs. wet is important. Having a place to put the snow also matters.

While looking for another photo I came across a few pictures of a Mayrath from a local show here in North Carolina.

This one will have a free moving bearing, properly adjusted anvil, newly turned hammers, the RPM will increase from approximately 2100 to 2650, and the belt should be more capable of grabbing the pulleys. Several smaller changes I'm hoping will add up to a pretty fair positive difference!

Yeah, I bet you're right. I read an article once on ignitions and proper wire usage From what I remember, the reason you'd want a solid core wire on these old low output points style ignitions (non-electronic) is to get maximum spark. From what I understand, solid core is for non-electronic ignitions like our low output points (non-electronic) ignitions, carbon suppression is good for rudimentary electronic ignition and spiral wound are good for higher performance ignition systems. I read that using non-solid core wires on these old points ignitions could actually produce a weaker spark due to the resistance in the wire. And, of course, you don't want to use solid core on any electronic ignitions as it'll likely end up fried at some point. So, while the non solid core wires would likely work, they wouldn't be optimal. Maybe I'll grab my meter and test the resistance on the OEM wire and that 701001 wire. Any thoughts?

Bought this little guy the other day and was wondering if somebody could tell me what model it is. Trying to get it put back pretty original for my Grandpa. He will have a blast driving it through the towns parades.

My P220 lost a valve seat, i replaced the engine but kept the old one. My 318 had a pumper carb, i swapped the entire P220 carb/intake over to the P218 and it runs perfectly

This evening I started the clean up process. Wire brushed a couple small pieces and began on the flywheel side outer housing. I got a few packages in the post too. Some nice new grade 8 hardware from Bolt Depot in Mass. The new Browning brand side bearing. MUCH better than the old one. Glad I ordered that. Also got some idler pulleys to try after assembly to see about keeping the belt lined up better. I ordered a Browning brand belt pulley too. The old one was a 7" diameter that was installed by a PO. Wrong size. Should have been a 5.25 to 5.5" diameter per Mackissic company. The one I ordered is a gross OD of 5.75 with a datum diameter of 5.4. That'll do just fine. It was already a BEAST. I'm REALLY looking forward to trying this machine after proper knife to anvil adjustment and a faster drive speed.

LMFAO No you didn't hurt my feelings lol, I'm glad you brought it up, like I mentioned earlier I've been all over this thing a 100 times trying to not forget something lol. I appreciate any and all comments, I may change things that are brought up and then again I may just leave it the way it is, depends on money and time. I will be talking to my neighbor down the street he's a machinist and works out of his garage, I want to see if he can build me a larger drive pulley for the motor to the snow blower. That is one fix that I really want to have done before snow flies.

Or... he's really a Sidehill gouger or a Dahu... Legs on one side shorter than the other... On the interwebs so must be true...

I couldn't post to the other 1045 thread, so here is a picture of my 1045 with a rare RM-425 deck.