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Not sure how I found their websight but I bought this 1/25 Wheel Horse off of Eston's Hobbies. It is not a toy but a beautiful replica. I am a major model car builder so I put this in my case with some of my kits.

Less than 8 feet from me. This was on his way back. He had gone the other way 20 minutes before. Just taking his time always grunting. I don’t know if it was pain since he was limping or just plain horny since his harem was not too far away. I get no respect either way. IMG_4506.mov

I'm on my way. I should be there Saturday if the 301 survives 70 hours at WOT.

Wait till @Ed Kennell or @Pullstart sees that video, they’re going to be hanging out in your backyard 😂

Today me and Lucy moved some pretty big trees!

You need a bow and some arrows!!! You know anyone who does woodworking?

I have an English Longbow made by an Englishman for a friend of his, also an Englishman. I, another Englishman by lineage, was lucky enough to get it from the giftee when he was clearing out a little.. It started as a very carefully selected piece of oak 1 x 4.

Got my new trailer rims and tires cleaned up today. Once the decades old grease was removed I descovered the tires were old school indian head Carlisles. Who knew?

Not a play toy at all, rather a precise fine crafted scale replica.... There were a few in a post about 6 months ago or so.....

Funny you mention that. It’s true. Two things always happen when always using hand tools considering that they are kept razor sharp and one’s hands are usually very close to the cutting edges . First when showing or demonstrating how to do something while using them, it’s about a sure thing that you are going to cut yourself. Pretty normal and routine just don’t bleed on work. Second , not while using them but wether picking them up or picking up something else close one accidentally bumps a hand on an edge. Happens about every day specially on carving tools which are kept with cutting edges facing you for quick identification. Stain on bottom below rosette. Blood. I cut myself and managed to bleed on work. Decided to leave it. My signature.

I believe he makes dash plates with a 3d printer. as far as lights go, you should be able to fit a couple 2x2 led pods in there. I put halogen 856 bulbs in mine with air conditioning and 2x2 pods in the fenders. They work great but my legs do get in the way of the inner ones. I am going to change them out for stock fenders again and rework something for them to fit in.

I just serviced the engine and transmission in Putt Putt, but I have a few more states to cover. It’s a coin toss who will get there first!

She is all cleaned up painted and reassembled. A few things need tweaking still. Not a very sophisticated machine but well built and simple. I believe this guide is home built. Perhaps the original was missing at one time. Needed a few shims to keep table absolutely perpendicular to blade in all directions. Have also to look for new tires but these will do for now. Need to get the proper pulley for the motor and should be trying it soon. Some shims needed Home built guide??

No problem -- I hope you didn't take it the wrong way -- I love what you did. It's pretty kick ass. Nice job putting all of that together! I can't wait to see a video of it tossing some snow.

This is an awesome idea. I am curious to see how this works. Probably be great for loose dirt.

That is where I think I saw their models for the first time and linked their sight. I have been wanting to build the MPC kit that comes with the Indy car kits. The problem is they have no emblems and no decals except for the original 68 Rislone Indy kit has decals for the tractor. Those kits are sadly very expensive. I wish I knew how to make my own decals. Something I should look into.

I thought youse guys walked both directions on the hills to keep your legs evened out.

Thanks I've got a spare set, may get those cut today while I have the time. They're not as dry rot as these and I still haven't been able to find a cheap set of rear hubs locally. If snow flew tomorrow at least I'm ready for a trial run, or at least I think I am lol. She's getting there !

Nice to see those weights getting used! They spent many years just sitting in storage here.

Me and my cousins got to work again and this time we managed to put a dirt bike exhaust on the no name

I began my post HS studies in 1962 at a local WVU campus in Keyser WVa. Four other universities, 60 years later and I'm still learning. My youngest son went to Morgantown. All us Hillbillys have one short leg from walking around the steep hills.

Scored this tiny 9” Duro bandsaw from pre 1935. All cast iron construction including the one piece cover. It was actually mounted on a Singer sewing machine treadle base being used that way. It will be however fitted with a motor perhaps on same stand. It’s been in the weather for a while but everything functions smoothly. Will be restoring it to use with a narrow 1/8” blade since I keep my regular bandsaw with a 3/4” blade all the time. It will be used as a scroll saw so I don’t need to change blades on the regular one.

I bought this at the Temple Tractor Show Saturday. Had a full little trailer, so a friend and I went to pick it up today. Very excited with this tractor and got to spend 2+ hours wandering around 20/30 acres of antique cars, tractors, machinery, etc. The two old brothers sell parts, and restore Model A's, T's, and tractors when their not running goats on their old family ranch in the middle of no-where. The brothers were a wealth of knowledge, and super friendly. We Drooled like two kids in a Candy Store! Mayraths were built between 149-52. Reportedly about 500 were built. This is a Standard Model, The Deluxe Model had a sheet metal body. The Mayrath Co. built grain augers, so this has a rear PO that could power an auger and sickle mower. you could also get a front plow, rear plow and other implements for it. I have a video of it running and driving, but need a little Love. I need to learn how to create a Youtube account to post videos'. Grandson already claimed it! Serial #167 Briggs Model 14 engine, runs but needs a spring on the throttle/governor linkage. Found an identical Briggs Model 14 on a sheep shearing rig and got measurements on the governor spring I need. T92 transmission used on many old garden tractors such as Power Kings. Top speed reportedly 25-30MPH...WOW Dana gears in rear end. Very simple brakes, on each side. Ross Steering Box Steering tube was cut, probable for a repair sometime in its past. Very weldable. Now will the steering wheel carefully come off to fix it right! The engine is mounted on a hinged platform. The clutch pedal tilts the platform to slack the drive belt. A large spring keeps tension on holding the engine platform down. Everything is very simple on this tractor. This is a picture of the Deluxe Model with sheet metal This is a picture of a Basic model like mine, restored. My wife likes it painted up colorful like this. I'll gently clean it up and see how much original paint is really left. For now it will stay with the patina look and get the mechanicals fixed up. Here's a few of our other fun spottings for the day! @Pullstart could make this custom super short school bus body Maybe a Homolite garden tractor? Late 50's/early 60's Cadillac DeVille Fordson with and "Industrial conversion kit that gave it a wider/heavier front end and a heavy rear axle with a "pin" to move old semi trailers around, like a shipping yard tractor @ebinmaine Case tractor with a bucket wheel trencher and a front end loader 5 man sheep& goat sheering rig. There were a ton of Model T's and A's parts and carcasses. We were ask not to take pictures of the restored ones they had in buildings. They had a beautiful original condition Model T with a wood grain box bed. IMG_0282[1].MOV

Loaded up a couple of items to go to a consignment auction. the disk is too big for the D200 6ft wide and wants to take out the headlights (at least the M is red).... 310-8 hauled the trailer and disk up the hill no problem. D200 loaded the plow into the truck

HA!! Mebbe the 🦌 wanted to try out a ?? VERY cool.

Excellent! That's something I always wanted to get for my garage -- a lathe. I have some stuff at work I could use and I have contacts as I work in the manufacturing industry, but I hate to bother people with one off parts. I have a cool little mini lathe that is bench top mounted and I can make small parts with it, but couldn't turn a pulley on it. Someday, when I get a bigger place. someday...... haha

LMFAO No you didn't hurt my feelings lol, I'm glad you brought it up, like I mentioned earlier I've been all over this thing a 100 times trying to not forget something lol. I appreciate any and all comments, I may change things that are brought up and then again I may just leave it the way it is, depends on money and time. I will be talking to my neighbor down the street he's a machinist and works out of his garage, I want to see if he can build me a larger drive pulley for the motor to the snow blower. That is one fix that I really want to have done before snow flies.

Ya, I was thinking about adding some fine window screen or something, to stuff in there, it won't look as good as the photo you posted lol but it'll hopefully keep the snow out and still let the air in. Thanks for the input.

Do the axles attach the same way in both? I am a fan of the LSD in the right situations. I agree that the LSD can definitely help in straight line motion on poor traction surfaces but it is of less use when the tractor is turning (my personal opinion is that the designers had “dirt and snow” in mind--tilling, plowing, cultivating, and grading or “row crop mowing". To recap: - Pinion or bevel gears rotate only when the rear wheels are turning at different speeds - In WH's non-LS differentials these gears rotate freely (the gears are mounted on shafts) - In LS differentials, the pinion gears resist rotating using metal-to-metal friction so that the rear wheels want to turn at the same speed (the gears are not on shafts) The LS pinion gears are held in place within close-fitting pockets in the diff plates by a spring. When the rear wheels start to rotate at different speeds (due to slippage or just simple turning) the pinions start to rotate. The spring forces the edges of each pinion’s teeth to rub against the sides of its pocket. The gears also twist slightly within the pocket and rub against the end plates. All this friction translates into resistance to the rear wheels turning at different speeds! But be warned. The extra friction wears the LSD's pinion gears, the diff plates, spring, and diff end plates in ways an 8-pinion diff’s parts do not. The extra friction (and the heat it can generate) are why LSDs must have more oil (note the higher fill spout that permits the higher fill level) than other transaxles and it should be changed more often.

You might try contacting Dennis (Vinylguy). He is our vendor for decals...he may be able o re-size his for your model. BTW, that looks like it is worth the trouble to do.

Four doe crossed the field at 7AM. Then at 8:15 a doe with a trailing shooter buck fed by me at 42 yards. I can put bolts in a saucer out to 50 yards, but the buck never stopped in a clear opening in the woods. So no shot taken.

The OSL syndrome is hereditary. So left leg OSL Billys walk CCW and right legers walk CW around the hills.

Or... he's really a Sidehill gouger or a Dahu... Legs on one side shorter than the other... On the interwebs so must be true...

The hydraulic lift is a function of the Sundstrand pump/transmission unit and has nothing to do with the transaxle portion which is strictly a set of reduction gears. You should be able to swap the differentials depending on what bearings are in your transaxle. Some were made with the standard 1533 inner axle ball-bearings and some had the B348 roller-bearing with a race pressed onto the differential. The total assembled length is the same either way, just need to have compatable bearings. Race for B-348

I'm a couple hours E/NE of you. Not sure what your idea of cheap is. I'd certainly give you a fair deal. I also have spare 12" wheels if you need them.

Those tires (front and rear) came out looking great!

Hello Ed. I know - Tranny has nothing to do with seat pan - was just explaining my machine. And no - not my plan to back up with the fender/seat pan lifted. Seems like an odd design to me - but, it is what it is.

Does look nice. Might want to lop off the corners of your weight bracket at the bottom. That looks like a knee butcher. 👍

hi Andy N, those rear tires look tuff! regards mike

Guy said it has sat for 4 years so could be my issue. When I get home after work tomorrow I’ll be able to actually dove into it. I didn’t get home with it until little bit ago

Slop between the governor arm and throttle on the carb can add to how quick the governor response is. Always a good idea to add a spring between the two to eliminate it. The holes are already there. Any light spring will work, and it won't negatively affect anything.

Today I added 140#'s of weight to the back figuring the location plus the weight of fuel should do. Then I'll add some juice to the rear wheels once I get them squared away. Trying to get this done, Mt. Washington already recorded their first measurable snow over the weekend, it wasn't much but it's a sign Winter's just around the corner.

I pulled my big 8 and Mrs. P’s 9 point (it ran in front of her Suburban) out of the sand pile and pressure washed them today. They’ll be on the shop shelf soon! This 8 is the one I shot in MO and received my $1,000 fine for shooting it too small. It scored 126” and 150” was the minimum requirement per the land owner’s contract. I properly removed all brain matter before transporting it, in case CWD was any concern.

That is so true!

Don’t be sorry. Brings up other subjects which are of interest. I avoid wood filler for anything that has to retain a natural or stained finish. Filler always looks like filler, it never fools anyone. As a matter of fact once a finish is applied over it , it accentuates it making it stick out. I feel that so called “defects” are actually part of what makes a piece have a certain charm and character. If one wants “perfection “ then one needs to find a board void of so called “flaws”. I don’t even fill nail holes in trim. What’s the point? Everybody knows there is a nail under filler. Nail hole always looks better and if carefully planned and executed it adds to the craftsmanship of project .The alternative is what you did. Intentionally accent flaw by filling it with stones as you did ir colored epoxy, molten metal or even inlay a shapely piece of another wood such as a butterfly shape ir rosette. Then when looked at instead of seeing a mundane ugly patch with filler ones sees an artistic touch which always enhances piece. Well done.

Almost 1 year ago I picked up this non running 418-8. After much electrical work, paint, and more parts than I care to mention, I got it all put together today. It's ready for a plow day! Still needs some more paint work, but my paint booth is done until spring. Decals and wheels were installed today.

Was preserving some original patina here today.

Here is information from Brian Miller's web site. Differences Between the Kohler K-series and Magnum Engine Blocks - Unlike the old school small- and big-block Chevy V8's, the Kohler K-series and Magnum engine block models K241, M10, K301, M12, K321, M14, K341 and M16 are not all the same. There are several variations in bolt patterns and PTO end flange configurations between these blocks. Before replacing an engine block and if possible, the best thing to do is have the original engine rebuilt, then all the original accessories will attach to the original block with no modifications. But if the original engine block is not rebuildable and damaged beyond repair, another block of the same type (specification number) will need to be acquired. If interested in purchasing a bare block, please email me several detailed, sharp photos of your original engine block taken at all sides so I match it to one I may have in stock. Packaged shipping weight for each bare block is 45 lbs. The Major Differences Between the K241, M10, K301, M12, K321, M14, K341 and M16 Kohler Engine and Blocks - The K241 and M10 blocks have a STD cylinder bore of 3.250" and the stroke is 2.875". All of these blocks have an exhaust valve diameter of 1.125" and the intake is 1.375". Some rare K241 blocks have "K301" embossed on the PTO end. These have a thicker cylinder wall than ordinary K241 blocks. The K301 and M12 blocks have a STD cylinder bore of 3.375" and the stroke is 3.250". There are no other major differences between these two blocks. These blocks have the same size valves, and most external parts will interchange. Due to the smaller cubic inch displacement, which lessens the amount of air that enters the engine, theses engines use a Carter or Kohler #26, or Walbro #52 (1.07" throttle bore) carburetor. The K321 and M14 blocks have a STD cylinder bore of 3.500' and the stroke is 3.250". There are no other major differences between the K241, M10, K301, M12, K321 or M14 engines. The early K321 blocks have an exhaust valve diameter of 1.125", and the valves in the later K321 blocks are the same diameter, which is 1.375". Some internal, but most external parts on the K241, M10, K301, M12, K321 and M14 engines will interchange, with the exception of the early style K241 cylinder head and size of the carburetor. Due to the larger cubic inch displacement, which increases the amount of air that enters the engine, the K321 and M14 engines use either a larger Carter or Kohler #28 or #30, or Walbro #60 (1.17" or 1.2" throttle bore) carburetor. The K341 and M16 blocks have a STD cylinder bore of 3.750" and the stroke is 3.250". There are no other major differences between the K241, M10, K301, M12, K321, M14, K341 or M16 engines, except the valves are the same diameter, 1.375". And the K341 and M16 blocks have 10 cylinder head bolts. Due to the larger cubic inch displacement, which increases the amount of air that enters the engine, the K341 and M16 engines also use a #30 (1.2" throttle bore) carburetor. And most external parts, except the cylinder head and air shields, will interchange with the K241, M10, K301, M12, K321, M14, K341 and M16 engines. The Major Differences Between the Kohler K-series and Magnum Engine Blocks - Some Kohler blocks have wide base flanges (for the wide, deep oil pan) and some have a narrow base with no flanges. (These are used on Cub Cadet, Ford, certain John Deere and Wheel Horse garden tractors.) Most Magnum blocks are wide base, and very few are narrow base. The very early K241 10hp blocks have no indentation for installing an upper mount gear starter (mounting bolts are below the starter motor). Also, some of these older blocks with flanges have no holes drilled for converting to a narrow base oil pan. (But holes can be drilled and tapped.) Some blocks have either a drilled or threaded oil dipstick tube hole next to the cylinder, above the crankcase, while others have no hole present. Some blocks have provisions for a starter-side oil dipstick tube, and some don't. Some blocks came with counterbalance gears and some didn't. Some have expansion plugs where balance gear stub shafts can be installed, and although certain blocks have the bosses, some have no holes drilled for the stub shafts. All Kohler Magnum blocks have no provisions for ignition points. Some blocks have two threaded holes for installing an exhaust pipe flange, and some don't. Some blocks have provisions to install a mechanical fuel pump, and some don't. Some blocks have different bolt patterns on the PTO end, and Gravely blocks have a raised circular flange. (See below.) Some K241 blocks with K301 embossed on the PTO end have a thicker cylinder wall, and some K241 blocks without the K301 embossing have an ordinary thickness cylinder wall. The 12 fin K341 blocks have an ordinary thickness cylinder wall, and the 13 fin K341 blocks have a thicker cylinder wall. Other than all of the before mentioned È, everything else on the Kohler K-series engine blocks are pretty much the same. The Differences Between the Old Kohler K-series and the Newer Kohler Magnum Engines - The Magnum engines replaced the K-series in later years. The Magnum engines are basically the same engine as the K-series. The main differences are, besides the baffle shields (sheet metal) that covers the block, the Magnum has solid state ignition, a fixed main jet (Walbro) carburetor and the starter motor fastens to the OEM bearing plate instead of the engine block. And there are no provisions for using ignition points. Most of the external and all the internal parts are interchangeable, and most aftermarket (high performance) parts are interchangeable with either engine. A Kohler K-series and Magnum M10, M12, M14 and M16 single cylinder engines will fit in place of a Kohler K241 or M10 engine. These all basically have the same external dimensions, with the exception of the 16hp, which has a larger cylinder. Kohler engines are like the old school small block or big block Chevrolet V8 engines. A small block 400 CID engine can be used in place of a 265 CID engine, and a big block 572 CID [crate] engine can be used in place of a 366 CID [truck] engine, because they basically have the same external dimensions. The main difference with Kohler engines is the bolt patterns on the PTO end of the block. Each block is made specifically for the garden tractor, small motorized vehicle or lawn and garden equipment it goes in. When replacing an engine block with another, make sure the bolt pattern matches that of the original block so the PTO accessories, braces and brackets can be bolted on with no modifications. The Kohler Magnum engine models M10, M12, M14 and M16 can be used in any Cub Cadet garden tractor. The majority of the Magnum 10-16hp single cylinder engines have flanges at the base. Therefore, the block will need to be converted into a narrow base by cutting off the flanges on each side and then cut new threads in the holes in the block for the narrow oil pan. And the other parts that's needed are: a K-series large OEM bearing plate with an upper mount gear starter (mounting bolts are below the starter motor), or a small K-series OEM bearing plate with a starter/generator; a small or large diameter K-series flywheel with a matching flywheel shroud and baffle shields (sheet metal); and being there's no provisions for ignition points and no points lobe on the Magnum camshaft, Kohler's Breakerless Ignition or crank trigger ignition will need to be used. Also, because of the 3/8" flywheel retaining bolt, an aluminum clutch hub adapter with a 3/8" hole will need to be used, acquire a 5/8"-3/8" reducer/step washer. (I make these.) Everything else should fit in the tractor with no problems. Only eight models of the 10-16hp Kohler Magnum single cylinder cast iron block engines was manufactured as a narrow base. The specification numbers for these are as follows: M10, specification #'s 461509, 461534 (Cub Cadet garden tractor model 1050); M12, specification #'s 471512, 471514, 471570 (Cub Cadet garden tractor model 1210); M14, specification #'s 601512, 601513; and M16, specification # 711536. All other 10-16hp Magnum engine block specification numbers are a wide base. Any Kohler Magnum single cylinder 10-16hp engine would be excellent to pull with. The only problem is, being these come with solid state ignition, with no provision for ignition points, if a steel flywheel is going to be used, a crank trigger ignition system will be needed, too. Also, if the engine has counterbalance gears, they will definitely need to be removed because one or the other could break, destroying the block and other parts. For most engines, it does absolutely no good to reinstall them. Most Kohler engines don't come with them and in most engines, they do very little to reduce engine vibration. When left out, the engine should not vibrate more than usual. Being balance gears are made of cast iron material and operate [out of balance] on a single, narrow needle bearing for support, they've been known to break and destroy the crankshaft, camshaft and engine block. I've seen this happen to a good engine a few times. Therefore, I highly recommend leaving them out. But if the engine vibrates excessively with the absence of the balance gears, the flywheel and/or crankshaft will need to be dynamically and precision spin-balanced to reduce engine vibration. Click or tap here to learn more about flywheel and/or crankshaft balancing. For a steel flywheel, visit Midwest Super Cub's website. How to Convert a Single Cylinder Kohler K-Series Engine into a Magnum Engine - To convert the Kohler K-series K241, K301, K321 or K341 engine into a Magnum M10, M12, M14 or M16 engine, the parts that's needed are: Magnum OEM bearing plate; starter motor (the support brackets for the starter are for mounting of the starter solenoid only. They do not support the starter motor whatsoever); flywheel (w/external magnet); plastic cooling fan assembly; flywheel shroud; solid state ignition coil w/mounting screws; plastic inner air baffle; cylinder head (cover) and cylinder (side) baffles (sheet metal). The only difference in these baffles is the M10, M12 and M14 all share the same baffles over the cylinder head and on the cylinder, and the M16 use different (larger) baffles. The Kohler points pushrod hole will also need to be plugged with a Briggs & Stratton points plunger plug. And when installing the bearing plate, the cam pin hole will need to be sealed with clear RTV silicone adhesive sealant because the Magnum bearing plate will not cover the hole. By the way - I've always preferred to use clear RTV silicone adhesive sealant for three reasons: Due to metal any warpage (which is unavoidable in most cases), gaskets don't always seal the irregularities and imperfections between mating surfaces, especially thin metal covers; being it's an adhesive, it bonds parts together, forming a leak-proof seal; and being it's clear, a thin bead of clear RTV silicone adhesive sealant makes for a clean and professional-looking repair job. It can't be easily seen or noticed between the parts. FYI - Solid state ignition provides a more stable ignition timing than points ignition. The ignition timing for a K-series engine is less stable because the points operate off the camshaft, which has a tendency to "move around" a few thousandths of an inch while the engine is running, which effects the ignition timing. Flywheel-triggered ignition timing, such as the Magnum solid state ignition, is more stable because it operates off the crankshaft, which doesn't "move around" as much as the camshaft. One thing is lessened and another is gained with either ignition system. [Return To Previous Paragraph, Section or Website]