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Hello all, A little birdy was nagging me to go get a coffee at our local Xtra-Mart / Dunkin. Well I went, behind the Xtra-Mart is a junkyard / auto recycling place. I know the owner. When I pulled in I saw "it" and said... thats mine... period no discussion. I called up Joey (yes thats his real name) and said "listen... its mine... gimme a price and don't kill me on it" He goes "man... everybody wants that thing" I said I bet... but gimme the price. He says "$$$$" as is and get it out of my face. I say "SOLD"... I'll be down with the cash. I paid an extra $100 and they flat bedded it too my house. I gave it a pressure wash and vac jobbed and threw in a used battery. Got it running (well they had did me a favor and cleaned out bad gas and threw in some fresh) Brakes junk... power steering pump junk... other misc stuff to fix. But it has been sitting for 12 years!!!! It's a 1995 4x4 5 speed 305, 3.42 gears... I am tickled pink Tony 20230926_171653.mp4

Most especially for the older Wheelhorse tractors, the geometry of these aftermarket belts may--or may not---be the same as OEM. If the belt is too thin/thick or of different angles, it will not perfectly match the 'V' of Wheelhorse proprietary pulleys, resulting in premature belt failure/rollover or, much worse, wear out of the original 'V' contour of the pulley itself. I also have to question the design flexibility endurance. IMHO--- Although one might initially save a few bux with aftermarket belts, the OEM belts will last for DECADES. About 4 years ago, I had to change the main #7478 belt on my 1972 Bronco 14...that had been in use since I got the tractor in 1983 or so. 1983 to 2019... that's 36 years (or more) on the OEM belt... tuff to beat that.

I first met Norm at Rural Past Times a few years ago. He had a little pop up tent which he slept in. It wouldn't un - pop next morning. Took the two of us to flatten it and force it back into it's carry bag. Think he slept in the Showman, Chris Sutton's, van at later shows. Had a chat with him recently where we compared getting older notes among other things. Photo is of Norm testing out the Roper on one of his visits down south. RIP Norm. You will be missed.

This afternoon my newly assembled “308” got a trans fluid swap. Nasty stuff came out (I’ve seen worse). This gear oil only has like 15-20 minutes of use! Luckily NAPA has this on sale for $5.99

Rube Goldberg's take on a whoopie cushion...

I was wanting somewhere to store a few tools and came up with this. Just poked a few holes and riveted it on. Perfect for hammer, tape measure, screwdrivers, pliers, just a few basic tools. Anybody else have a tool holder on their rig?

This is an illness that usually occurs in Feb., but five days of rain gave me a mild case. Not complaining about the rain, we need it, but I'm running out of indoor projects. Cleaned the oil boiler and the woodstove. Cleaned the work shops. Cleaned the weapons arsenal. Making new striper tube lures.

I had just completed a set of decals for the Roper as he was restoring! sad times...

Believe it or not I found my garage. I finally got my friends C-105 that I’ve had here for way to long, to drive out of the garage under its own power. I had to do so much to it from wiring, starter, key switch, carb, fuel lines, fuel pump. Might as well as rebuilt it from the ground up. Unfortunately the tractor drove 50 feet and the drive belt exploded. Never seen one come apart like this one did. Tracking down another one tomorrow hopefully and giving that tractor the old heave ho out the door. Alex and I then put our sights figuring out his c-121 clutch/drive belt issue. I determined someone welded the tab on the end of the rod that goes through the frame to the idler pulley and it was in the wrong spot. The angle was all wrong allowing the idler to come in contact with the drive pulley when the clutch was out with the old belt on. When he installed the correct belt (7473) it wouldn’t stop spinning and was super tight. Once we cut the welded rod and replaced it with one off my shelf everything went back together with the brand new belt and he drove it around the yard and said it’s better than ever. now time to clean up the chaos sweep it out. Organize some parts and move some more projects in.

I am shocked. Another great loss. We take it for granted that we all will be here for ever but unfortunately it’s not so. Rest in peace Norm.

I have an 854 restoration going back together and I'm just waiting for a few parts to come in to finish assembling. I would like to get as much ground speed within reason....Has anyone pulley swapped one of these before? If so what size pulleys and what was the result? I was thinking about just switching sizes from the trans to the engine. I'm not looking to race but will be cruising on this thing at events, to the neighbors etc.... likley it will never cut grass again. see before and after pictures below.... forgive the messy garage....

Congratulations! @Sparky

Right there with you Ed. My wife could never understand why I would get a bit wiggy after 3 or so days of doing nothing, I told her it's in the blood - I may have had a white collar job at the end of my career, bur the MOST satisfying was working in the shop early on making parts to assemble......

20,000 post

Coming up in December I will be joining the new hip club. The question in my mind was how will I get the leaves raked? Well the lawn sweeper will scoop them up and I can then dump onto a tarp. How will I get the tarp into the trailer a problem that fits right into my brain's wheelhouse. In the past I would just rake into a pile and pick them up and drop them into the trailer bed. My solution. Mount the winch on the tongue of the trailer scrounge about in the shop for the pulley on the pillow blocks and voila the solution is now mounted on the trailer. See photo. I then proceeded to test this setup by hauling some brush into the trailer using the winch. Tied the brush into a bundle and winched it right up the ramps. Leaf plan is to dump the leaves from the sweeper onto a tarp, tie it up and them pull into the trailer. For those who look closely you will see that the u-bolts holding the winch mount angle iron on the trailer are not #8 bolts. Keep in mind that 1, the leaves are light weight, 2, this is a temporary setup and 3, if there is any hint that the u-bolts are not doing the job I can replace them.

When swapping pulleys on the early 3-speeds, pay attention to how short the transaxle input shaft is and how closely the drive belt tracks to the frame. The narrow stock pulley has its setscrew hole in the valley of the sheave. A pulley with a wide hub might throw the drive line out of alignment affecting the clutch and the belt cover as well as engine pulley placement.

Chris Sutton reached out to me on Skype yesterday. He wanted me to make sure to let all of you guys know that he knew about Norm, and that he (Chris) is doing OK. Most of you guys know that Chris is having isues also. Anyway, it was excellent to talk with Chris and remember old times.

It would be a nice addition for a Wheel Horse Train. The kids would enjoy pulling the rope to blow the train whistle.

Train whistle, also used to annoy the neighbors and their dogs.

Looks like a " Mrs. K will kill me when see sees what I put on the stove", but I could be mistaken.

When I started collecting cast iron, I was warned to only buy pans that were pre-1952. Reason, I asked? Most pre-1952 have smooth cooking surfaces and they are easier to cure and clean. Some of the new stuff today is so coarse that without power tools it can't be properly cured. My pans run from #3 frying pan to a #12 chicken fryer, plus a couple of Dutch ovens and cornbread pan. I clean the new acquisitions by putting them in the self-cleaning oven, If they have rust they get a vinegar and water bath. I cure them similarly to Achto by heating them to 300 degrees, rubbing with Crisco, wiping out any puddles, turning them upside down and reheating to 300 for another 30 minutes, and repeat the process at least another 3 times, wiping the surfaces with a lint-free paper towel between coatings. After they cool, I wiipe with towel and put away. After cooking, I remove all residue with a piece of chainmail, rinse with water, wipe dry, and apply a thin coat of vegetable oil or Crisco. I never use any kind of soap.

So very, very sad. Your presence will be greatly missed, here and on M.O.M. Rest in peace Norm. My deepest condolences to your family, prayers sent. God Bless. Doug.

Thank you for letting me know guys. Words cannot express how incredibly sad this has made me. I never met Norm but feel I knew him through our chats on Red Square. He was a great man and so full of knowledge he was happy to share. And he was so active and busy with his work where he lived and at his friend's farm. Life has cruel twists and turns and sometimes we get thrown off the road. I hope his family find peace and that he rests easy after a busy and fulfilling life. My deepest condolences and prayers. Mickwhitt. Xxx

Not saying chocks aren’t a good idea…but I was never under it while it was up. Removed and reinstalled the drain plug when it was on all 4’s. Obviously it was jacked up to get as much gear oil out of it as possible.

I've been married 27 years... known her for over 30... I used one of my 9 lives and simply said "I'm buying this..." no discussion. Lol... Maybe I used 2 lives...

Agreed. I can't even get the whole day through. Trina? Minutes. I'm not kidding. The girl ain't got no set down or quit in her. When it's raining snowing or ridiculous level cold we've been able to go downstairs and putter around. That workshop will now be out in the new barn. I can guarantee there'll only be a BBT trapped in the house for a matter of seconds before she installs a good heating system out there.

I’m with both of you, I can do one day or maybe a day and a half of doing nothing. Especially when the weather is nasty, but after that I can’t sit around. Lucky for me my shop is attached to my house so when it’s crappy I don’t have to go outside. Also lucky for me is that after 30 years of marriage I like to be inside with my wife!

Found these at Lowe's. Same belts as TSC, just different packaging. The 86" I got was on clearance and is not being stocked anymore. They had sizes from 87" to 109" in 1/2". Not a lot of 5/8" belts that would be useful for our tractors.

Back door got paint today. Trina just needs tape to finish up the corners.

Looking at it closer it can also be a garden train whistle.

Mrs. 8n says no. I'd get into too much trouble with something like that.

My army son was stationed in Korea and met a lovely young lady who came to the states to marry him. When he was in Afghanistan she lived with my wife and me for nine months. As a result we made numerous trips to the Asian market in Hartford. There I found the wok and it was only $25. That was in February of 2013.

That is an air operated fog or fireman’s signal horn. It is mounted through the brackets on bottom and actuated by pulling string on back.

@Ed Kennell had a guy that used to come to the shop , had a jeep wagon . front BUMPER , was 6" s/s pipe , weld cap ends . stainless flex line under grille spot . under hood were actual TRAIN HORNS . had them angularly , across width of , wagon . when activated , your hair stood on end , and you could feel the blast . cant imagine getting a blast of that on the road , he was , retired , and like to make up things . west bound , Pete

Just a few short years back, there were threads on this site with plenty of folks putting down anything that wasn't OEM. Those "blue belts" were garbage according to some. Maybe so, but I've never broken one yet. While the OEM debacle was understandable to a point, a simple drive belt can keep a tractor in the shed while looking for the unicorn factory stuff. Back then, the jungle site and fleabay weren't so good either. Now much of the OEM stuff is gone. Funny how times have changed in that what was once loathed is now treasured. I don't mean it in any way other than it is surprising. And it's a good thing. These machines are still going strong, and quality at least appears to not have suffered for belts at least. That is all that matters to me.

I use TSC and Napa belts all the time with no problems. The only belt I ever had issue with was a OEM WH belt on a 704. I find it hard to believe that Cecil Pond spec'd "Special pulleys and belts" for his tractors. He didn't make the pulleys and he didn't make the belts. I wouldn't be surprised that an OEM belt today is made by Gates. Wouldn't be surprised that Gates made them in the 60's too. Guess who makes NAPA belts... That's right Gates.

Luckily the old Start/gen tractors have one built in under the seat fender.

Looks like it is a model STR-324 if seeing it correctly and fits the smaller Lawn Ranger tractors. Back in the day the snowthrower came in two packages. These will show everything needed. If you add the front quick hitch to your tractor the latest snowthrowers will work. Here are all the models Snowthrower DNA All have 2 idler sprockets for the drive chain. Started out as 37" wide and the added wings make them 42" wide. 1966-67 model ST-376 1968 model 6-1211 1969 6-6211 plus 6-9111 1970-72 model 6-6212 plus 6-9112 All without front quick hitch so not a direct fit for 1973 and later tractors. Snowthrower rear frame mounts in the front of the tractor frame using 2 bushings and a long 3/8-16 x 8-1/2" bolt. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Front quick hitch introduced in 1973. Snowthrower rear frame has a 5/8" diameter round bar. 1973-74 model 6-6212 plus 6-9113 1974 model 6-6213 - (First model to include 8-0221 extensions without the front straight return - just a flat plate) 1975 model 6-6214 - (First model to include 8-0221 [103552 replaced by 93-1617 and 93-1617-01] side extensions with the front straight return. First model to have a cable spool on chute rotating crank) Chute crank support decal 104461. 1976 model 6-6215 ------ Chute crank support decal 104461. This one - 1976 model 66-42ST01 - Chute crank support decal 104461. and this one are likely identical. The model number format changed. 1977 model 76-42ST01 - Chute crank support decal 104461. This one 1978 model 86-42ST01 - Chute crank support decal 104461. and this one 1979 model 96-42ST01 - Chute crank support decal 104461. and this one may be all the same. They started using a different model number for each model year. 1980 model 06-42ST01 - (Last 42" model to use 4 grooved rollers for the chute) 1981-82 model 06-42ST02 - (First model to use plastic collar for the chute but was a retrofit for older models. Last model to use wheels) 1983 model 06-42ST03 - (First model to use skids) 1984-87 model 06-42ST04 - (Last model to use a 3/4" diameter driveshaft) 1987-89 model 06-42ST05 - (First model to use a 7/8" diameter driveshaft) 1990 model 06-42ST06 - (Last model to use a cable to turn the chute) 1991-93 model 06-42ST07 - (First model with tall chute retained by 3 individual grooved retainers) 1993-2001 model 79360 - (2001 and earlier will fit 2002-2007 with kit 105-1503) (1994 first year for replaceable blower housing scraper bar) 2002-2007 model 79362

Not always so simple. On the Opposed twins the starter is under the flywheel, on horizontal models its down low at the frame and requires usually pulling the engine...on vertical models you either pull the flywheel or use a thin 1/2 wrench to loosen the rear bolt under the flywheel then slip it out the side. Replacing rhe gear involved either removing a roll pin through the assembly or a hog ring type clip. I was overjoyed when briggs went to the metal gear...problem was the used a nylon ring gear for a few years...but finally they saw the light and i have never had to touch their metal on metal gears.

Sorry to hear of his passing. I enjoyed reading his posts. Condolences and prayers to his family and friends.

We got our issue squared away tonight. Upon further inspection the rod that goes through the frame from the clutch side to the idler pulley was not the correct way. A previous owner along the way must have installed the belt that was on it and then welded the piece that the clutch rod pushes and pulls to make the idler rock, into place but unfortunately it was the wrong place. I noticed it when I took a spare one off the shelf and saw how much different they were when assembled. We had to cut the old rod to get it out and install the one I found on the shelf. After that the brand new drive belt (part number 7473) fit perfectly. Alex reassembled the rest of the tractor and took it for a test spin and it works great. Way better than it originally did.

Sorry to hear this sad news. Condolences to family and friends.

So true Cas... like when Roadapples passed now him I had met and miss him but somehow I had always hoped on meeting with Norm. Pipe dream I know but??

Do it! Installed this one like 20 years ago. Tractor is long gone. Screwed right to the fender, that should get a few guys fired up

I am so glad I helped him out with those engine parts I sent.

We have lost a very good friend. I just can't believe it, he was so active. We would send things in the mail back and forth. Among those, Norm sent me a Golfing hat from a nice course near him. I think Norm has the only "Wheel Horse" Bourbon Batch # 1 bottle in the UK. I will miss my friend. God Speed Norm!!!

I wouldn’t run without it since it helps level the blower and reduces stress on various components. It is not just about the operator.

Your not playing fair Ed, The picture of it on the stove confuses Ms Google.

Rest in peace Norm. Prayers sent to his family.