Leaderboard

No more projects with names for me. IF, and I say IF, I ever get something done, then I’ll post it. Till then, I’m done. Something always comes along that takes my time, money or my enthusiasm. That being said, here’s a side shot

Those that know Trina are well aware that she's staunchly anti hydro. All her tractors are gear drives and that'll likely never change. She won't use own operate tolerate or even consider a "slush box" transmission. And yet....

I recently bought the mini tire changer from Harbor Freight and mounted it to a shaft that fits into the receiver hitch on my pickup. The C clamps didn't hold it well enough so I fabricated some angle iron that worked great to hold the base in place. My vise on my workbench is too high and I don't have any other work tables or benches to mount it to. The changer works very well. The most difficultly I had was mounting the second bead. A person needs 3 hands as the mounting tool needs to be held down, while pulling on it with another hand and pushing down on the opposite side of the bead all at the same time. I changed three 8" tires and have 4 more to do in the near future.

Hahahaha! We all say that…then get on RS and go right to the classifieds to see what’s for sale near us

Mowed with the 414 today….

Sure…but I’m not gonna give it a name and have an 80 page thread on it Just messing with ya!

Looks like there's enough room to just drill new holes in the isolation board. Do all 4 of them with new bolts? Use a new piece of Masonite and make a whole new board?

My first, still my favorite…

@Pullstart will have room after plow day... slip that Senior on Norman and I'll help ya out with lightening yer load... I hear he delivers...

Well late night in the garage. It’s 12:07 am and I just came in. Today started out with me being best man at my best friends wedding. He got married on the other end of the state. So lots of driving. Tomorrow was supposed to be tractor day with my buddy Carey (different friend) to work on his c-100 that had a stuck engine. Plans changed so when I rolled back into town he was already in the garage working on it. The guy who works on ugly green tractors helped him out with taking the flywheel off while I was gone and lo and behold it freed up! The corrosion around the stator and the mouse nest pieces that were in there must have stuck it pretty good. When I rolled back into town I taught him how to clean a carburetor, installed new points since his were rusted shut, re wired all the wiring to the points and to the coil test spun it and saw great spark so we added a test gas tank bypassing the fuel pump which I haven’t checked yet and she fired up. The exhaust is definitely full of marvels mystery oil that didn’t make it down to the piston when he filled it so next step either tomorrow evening or Sunday morning is to get it out of my garage and run it and let it burn off some of the oil. I still need to do final tuning on the carb but we are both pretty happy that it came unstuck as easy as it did (but because it was stuck it only cost him 100 for the tractor) after dreading the worst. I do love bringing these things back to life after they have been sitting for who knows how many years.

Temporary Dan? Lol! I had one that I repaired like that and it worked for years. Put a smear of grease in the socket first, then peened it….keeping it greasy

My first one…about 23-24 years ago. It’s actually a 1981 GT2500. Briggs 11HP long gone when I got it. Had a Kohler 10 while I owned it

Going through some old pictures. I wish I had some of these. Still looking to get another one as ive wheel horseless for too long.

I took this photo around 5 years ago in my backyard

I won’t stop till I collect them all (I have nothing at the moment worthy of a side shot)

was just at the local , fuel up area , parked along side a Nissan , quad cab , pickup , every lower body seam had the yellow / orange discoloration band starting , even the lower door drainage areas . fender wells were just starting , puff up paint . what could have possibly stopped , prevented that from happening ? even tail gate was , breaking paint , Kroil penetrating oil , or similar , deep creep oil , aerosol spray tube , would have been , soaking / preventing that , all of my drivers , have an oil film in / on metal seam connections , zero rust / rot or paint bubbles . even mineral oil will save your stuff , pretty cheap too , in gallon form . just a reference to something easily prevented , oily, Pete

@23 Reo also have a battery tender set up , on each of my horses , plug in is attached to the choke cable , TYE wrapped in place for easy access, Pete

What year / model # 520-H . Part # 109989 nylon spacer goes between the seat and top of adjuster.

Oh, and a side shot of the 417-H, well "was" a 417-H and may be again, not sure. Missing some parts here, have an engine but don't know if it runs.

Back in the garage after several hours of trail mowing and weed whacking. GT-1848 with Honda GX610 twin.

My next project….

You could probably rig something like this up. https://www.mcmaster.com/products/fuses/

All of these posts and no one has mentioned bailing wire (For country dwellers) or zip ties (for Suburbanites)

Finished fabricating a front weight for the 854 out of some ½” steel plate I picked up at Logan Steel’s bargain barn off the cutoffs and scrap pile for cheap. I think this will be enough for my purposes but, if not, I can add some more plate to the front. Should I offer to rent out that nice flat front for advertising space?

She probably picked it up and carried it!

Maybe she "Pushed" it over? I personally would not pursue this topic for obvious health reasons!

Hopefully not anytime soon!!! If you need a good steward for mid 60s rides Trina's gotcha back. Don't tell her I said that... She claims she doesn't want any more tractors.

I'm gonna find out probably over the winter depending on work schedule. Have a pretty rusty Suburban with no engine that I got really cheap. Going to do the rat rod theme & already bought the Predator 212. Did a few modifications to Predator as you can see. I know fuel tank will have to be removed to clear shifter. Plant to relocate existing fuel tank or purchase one that will be able to utilize the original fuel tank location.

Well, got the motor back on. Only things remaining are to mount the ladder and the splash well drain tubes. Either I was super prepared or I got exceptionally lucky because this was about as effortless as could be. Despite having to drill new holes, everything lined up perfectly and I managed to push the boat on its trailer exactly into the right position for the bolts to slip through on the first attempt. I’m thankful that we have so many tools and pieces of equipment at work that I can appropriate when needed for these extracurricular activities. I’ve had this boat for about 5-years or so. Since I’ve had it I’ve been frustrated that it always had a tendency for the transom tie down straps to loosen up when being trailered. With the new transom in place I towed it 30 miles back to work and the straps were both still as tight as they were when I attached them. Apparently I had enough flex before to cause them to loosen. Lesson learned. Almost done. Just in time for fall Crappie. Steve

Back in my military days I had alot of nice sidearms. Sold most of them thru the years but now wished I had not. Thinking the WH herd now and got a bad feeling again but trying to get them to a good home before I croak. I feel your pain. for the

Stuck intake valve, engine look fairly clean except for the horn of the intake valve. It has some black crust that easily broke off (guess that is what the manual refers as "coking"). I put some penetrating oil and tapped it with a mallet and it when back in, must have got a little of the carbon trapped in the valve guide. Think I know what started this, I was burning some really old gas up and when I went back to the new guess it must have broken some of the buildup off, just a theory although the manual states that "coking" is normal.

Here is my first one1977 C-120-8 speed bought new 46 years ago. It's also been a C-120/ 160 and now it's a C-120/180. Highly modified' repainted, but it still has the original decals and it's still here

that’s what I meant I’ll start them up and just creep them forward using the lever but never sit on the seat just walk beside it. I think this could be her way of NOT driving it lol

Even cheaper - The oil that you remove from your engine during an oil change. Change oil - spray the used oil into all the nooks and crannies on your vehicle.

Well everyone... We FINALLY got around to installing the stove in the upstairs great room today. Not quite 3 years. Don't wanna rush in to anything ya know.

I currently only have 2 of the green type but the tractoritis bug has bit.

That skyhook is right handy, for sure!

As I said in another post - It's ALL about the results.....

Seem like this question is asked nearly every week on here. The answers given quite often include buying expensive Bore Gauges or Inside Micrometers. I have an inexpensive down and dirty method of evaluating the cylinder's wear that uses a tool nearly everyone has or could buy for around $ 5.00. A set of feeler gauges and a ring from the piston you just removed will let you know without any other equipment. It won't tell you how much it should be bored (though you can get close) but it will tell you if it is beyond the point of being successfully honed. In the photo below you can see the first step, placing a ring at the very top of the cylinder above the ridge. The piston ring end gap in this case is 0.080. The cylinder at the ridge measured standard at 3.25" and the cylinder walls and ring edges were worn smooth. Next I used the piston to move the ring down to a point just below the ridge. The piston helps keep the ring square to the cylinder wall. At this point the piston ring end gap increased to 0.110" This step was repeated three more times at 3/4 inch intervals. The results were 0.117", 0.118" and 0.117" Next the ring was moved to the bottom of the cylinder where the piton rings would not have contacted the cylinder walls. The piston ring end gap returned to 0.080". The greatest deviation of the ring end gap was 0.038". Now we can do a little fuzzy math to figure out how much the cylinder need to be bored. Changes in the ring end gap will be a change to the circumference. Bore changes would be a change in diameter. So, 0.038" divided by 3.14159 will show that the greatest wear in the cylinder is 0.012" larger in diameter than standard and should be bored 0.020". This is a quick easy way to get the job done without spending a bunch of money on tools you will never use again. You are going to need the feeler gauges when you put the engine back together anyway.

Woman should be sainted.... HOLY BBT Batman!

Looks like your loosing sleep over all these 3 point options. Best i come pick that C195 up and let you get some rest. I'm guessing the WH GT14 3 point would also be an option.

Be honest EB, She started and drove it, muttering unspeakable things about you while she got the D*mm thing out of her way! O the things she has to put up with!

I picked up a running Kubota with a d600 3 cylinder diesel. It's 14hp but will power the 420 with no issues (this will never run a deck) I spoke with a gentleman who knows way more than I do about the mathematics but got to talking about hp to pump to flow to tip speed to rpm and lost me but the end result was a 14hp diesel is plenty to run the ground equipment I want. Install has started and I randomly picked up a disc. Hard to use with the deck up I had to give it a quick spin.

"A panic on YOUR part does not constitute a panic on MY part".... Sevrice 101....

If your intake valve is not closing the compression from your cylinder going backward through the venture of the carburetor will draw fuel up and blow it out the air intake.