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Thank you all for the birthday wishes! Worked on three RJs yesterday and actually had Rodney Burger here for my birthday dinner. Rodney helped set my throttle on an RJ Kohler motor. Ruth fixed steaks, artichokes, potatoes and key lime pie ! Quite a day.

Hello guys I recently restored a charger 10 my first restoration. I am done except for the wheels which I am having powder coated. I am happy with how it turned out However I used rust oleum spray paint a decision which I am now regretting because it seems like it scratches way to easily My next restoration will not be spray paint However since I can't change it now my question is there something I can do to preserve this paint job? I have heard putting certain oil on it helps preserve but I am not sure Any input would be great!! Thanks in advance

Mowed the yard today with my 310 and then gave it a bath after.

I understand completely what you’re saying. I am lucky to have several wheel horses from both grandpas. And this one my dad and I restored this winter both of my grandfathers owned this tractor and one point

We got a new grand niece early this morning. 2:45am, 7 lb 4oz, 20". Mother and daughter doing well. Grandpa and grandma are disgustingly elated - this is their first grandchild.

Mounted up a pair of Dees for use on Aunt B. Part of the crazy eights project. Rims were ready painted spares from the parts shed. Bearings be here tamara @Pullstartfrom the jungle. Can't believe that @Achto didn't have a shelve set in the bearing drawer... what's that about not finding good help these days...... To make matters worst he ordered 4.00 - 8 tubes for them last May. Went to install them and one was some funky one for a 13" rim?!?! So much for checking orders! Guess the jungle can’t find good help either...

Recent picture about 3 weeks ago. The 3 Kohler brothers.

Heh.. I fell on the floor laughing at the service desk when the service writer handed me a repair order on a '99 F150 - He mindlessly wrote down whatever the customer said... "Runs, but won't start" just that, nothing else.

My favorite. "My tractor won't start, I put on a new starter and it still won't start".

Do it the Army way...throw parts at it till it runs

Preaching to the choir. The worst thing ever was releasing trouble code description to the general public. Then came the cheap Trouble code readers and the parts store chains with the "We'll check your engine codes for free ads. I saw it all the time. My favorite: To open an auto shop all you need is money. This "kid" did. Daddy pays for it all. Kid calls and orders a cam sensor for an 89 Olds 3.8. I send him one. Calls the next day. Wants another cam sensor because first one is defective. I roll my eyes into the phone but say ok I'll send you another. Calls the next day flapping his wings like a Banty hen. another bad sensor!!! I can't help myself. I ask him with more colorful words what in the tarnation is he doing anyway? He says this Olds won't start and it has a cam sensor code!. I ask him is the cam even turning? Dead silence. .............. I'll get back to you. Couple ours later he's ordering a timing chain and gear set. "I got a million of them!"

The reason I mention this, is because so many parts are replaced as “I think this is the problem and this is the fix,” happens. Always go back to the basics. Never assume. Use a meter. Follow a sequence of operations. Get there quicker.

" Cranks but won't turn over"

That's why I like to swap questionable parts into a good running tractor for testing before buying new parts.

And more than once, I have replaced a brand new out of the box champion plug with another new one to fix a no-start .. moral of the story: "New is not the same thing as Good"

First thing I would do is replace the spark plug. That may not solve it but I can't count the number of times a simple plug replacement got my small engines going.

I am pretty proud of how it came out. This was a tiller tractor most of its life. It’s hard life is over now. Mostly I’m happy that my dad gets to enjoy it again. He mowed with it when he was a teenager. Now he is 61 years old and tools around on it weekly

First thing is to figure out if it's fuel or spark. What model are you working with? Is the vent in the gas cap plugged? Fuel pump going bad? Have you checked the points? Sparkplug? Condenser? Is the float valve stuck causing the carb to flood? Lots of areas to check.Start with the simple stuff first. A good running engine usually start running bad due to simple things. With all the gurus who hang out here, someone will come up with an answer.

Inexpensive - Carlisle X Trac ATV Bias Tire - 16x6.50-8 Good quality (I expect) Should look nice with my large rear aggies I don't know how much these have been discounted, but I expect anything you find like this from a good brand will be 2X to 3X the price. $45 each at Amazon. This tire is discontinued. Rough measurement seems they are about 16" tall and the lugs are about 1/2" deep.

No spraying here, I apply everything with a push broom. Truthfully a person can get good results with a low dollar gun like this one. https://www.harborfreight.com/20-oz-hvlp-gravity-feed-air-spray-gun-62300.html

Looks good from a distance

I posted this in 2008. Years went buy and a user named GeeGee responded. Its his wife - mind blown. I was unable to log in at the time but ended up creating another account just to message her. I've been looking for him since the 90s and thanks to this group I was able to find him. Unfortunately she found the post a couple years after his death. Its been about 3 years now and we are still in contact. This was my half brother who killed him and I suspected there was more tot he story than I was told (i was 8yo at the time). Not that anyone justifications were right with the situation I did still get some much needed answers and some closure int he whole ordeal. Just wanted to do a follow up as people see these old post with no conclusions.

If the UNDER paint surface is prepped well you'll have no issues with longevity. I have NO peeling paint anywhere. My own 1974 C160 Cinnamon Horse was painted a little over 4 years ago. We've touched up very small spots to make it more presentable for Owl's Head show at least twice. I'm talking about like bolt heads or wee scratches. It took a good honest 3 or 4 months to get to a point where it would stop scratching easily. After 4+ years of being an indoor stored but winter working tractor - it still looks good. @JCM At some point maybe a system more like @Achto uses?? Prep everything. Prime everything. Spray everything. Use hardeners. Maybe even a clear coat? As to brand I dunno. It's been 25+ years since I've sold Auto paint so I'm unfamiliar with it now.

Since this is a grilling, BBQ smoker thread I have something "different to add... I ran sailing charters in the British Virgin Islands for 6 years. One of our favorite stops was on the island Anegada, a remote coral island. The local delicacy served there were local caught lobsters that were then cooked on a 55 gal drum grill. While they lacked the claws of the Maine lobsters, they were huge and slow cooked over the driftwood fire they were incredibly tasty. I knew one of the locals who served jail time.......for murdering a guy who stole from his lobster traps....

When I was doing service work and installations for United Conveyor Corp. covering NY, Northern Pa and all of New England I would generally try to walk the customer's maintenance people through some troubleshooting steps and fix the problem over the phone. Had one stubborn mechanic that insisted it wasn't safe for him to open the door of the relay cabinet and his supervisor insisted I come to the factory to do the repairs. Six hours later (8:00 pm) I was at the front gate of the factory but they were closed until six in the morning. The following morning I turned on the main breaker to the conveyor system and saw only two of the three "power on" lights were illuminated, opened the relay cabinet door and saw one of the three fuses on the floor of the cabinmate.Testred the fuse, it was good, turned off the breaker, installed the fuse, turned the breaker back on and everything worked as it should. UCC billed them for a four hour service call (minimum amount) twelve hours of travel time, 500 miles, five meals and one night at a motel. If the "Maintenance Man" had listened to me he could have saved the company a day of down-time and a bunch of money.

Yepp. We know first hand here. Trina does 99% of our painting. We use almost exclusively Rust-Oleum 2X. Spraying small or large individual pieces and parts is a matter of convenience for us. It's not a huge issue for us to have scratches and character marks. All our tractors are workers. If we decided to restore a show only machine we'd likely change painting methods.

That'll need to set for at least 2 months before it's anywhere near fully cured. Do NOT put anything over it to preserve until AFTER that couple months... or more... has gone by.

ive mounted the tank and it seems like itll clear imma test run it today

@Charbs152 awesome looking rig, and the sentiment to boot! @Tonytoro416 that came out great, and nice clock!

Maybe verify the points gap, and the points are clean. I’ve had dirty points give intermittent spark and not enough juice to fire off.

What a beautiful machine. Looks very well taken care of and will make you a great worker for many years to come. Both my grandfathers and my dad had Wheel Horses and I am lucky enough to own all of them. The sentimental value of them means a ton to me.

Picked this up at auction last month, got it all washed up and waxed this weekend

My favorite genre, The Blues

Thanks I knew it took a while to cure but didn't know it was quite that long

It helps when you have all the info you need. wiring diagrams ect. Plus a system that you know how to use plus the years of experience. There are a lot of "technicians" on YT. This guy is about an hours drive from me and is just about the best I ever ran across and I worked with quite a few.

Mule Driveish

This applies to your K series as well…

My grandpa gave me his 1975 C-160. i cleaned it up and did a bunch of maintenance on it and put it to work. Its in great shape and runs awesome pics here - https://imgur.com/a/hsszO6V

So, it has fuel . Install a new plug. Clean and set the points to 0.020".

A spark tester will only verify that spark is getting to the plug. First thing that I would do is check the spark plug to see if it has fouled out.

We use a lot of pillow block bearing in the fertilizer business for conveyors and things. I believe that are forgiving to what I’ll call OUT OF ROUND wear. This also makes them greasable. Fertilizer eats everything and I have seen this pillow block style bearing where the bearing rides in a rubber type bushing take some pretty unbalanced out of balance rollers and shafts and just keep running. Keep them greased and they just keep rolling. Generally when we replace them the shafts going through the bearings are so ate up from the fertilizer along with the bearing themselves we don’t even try to unbolt them anymore. We just cut them with a torch and replace bearings and shaft all together They work well

A few more 1991 520 - H.

That would be an awesome rig anyway you came to have it. But being your grandpa’s is really special and takes it to another level. Glad for both of you. “she’s a beaut Clark!”

There really aren't any tweaks to putting in a gear reduction system into anything else as long as you have the complete system, it was pretty much bolt and go. The most difficult aspect for my ride's gear reduction steering install was removing the original steering wheel. I just cut the steering shaft after asking nicely too many times. I figured that steel can be too demanding if it is a liquid. As far as the more vertical position of the steering wheel... I've never observed any difference between the two. Left is my 315-8 and right is my C165 with a complete 520H reduction set up. Anyways, if I had to choose, I'd go for the 520H with the reduction. I have both, and there are days I wish my straight axle 520 had that feature.

Happy Birthday Lane!

Assembled an Attach-a-matic to the bracket I made last week and mounted them on the 854. I added flanges to the rearward side members to fit over the still-attached mid-hitch--that way I got to use two bolts on each side. Didn’t quite get the hole for the front hood base screw lined up so that’ll have to be remedied. Once done, I’ll make up a new, much longer, thumbscrew. Bar in place to take measurements for the next step--a hanger for front weights.