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1993 kwik-way loader mounted on a 1990 520-8 \

With duals it's easier to run over your own foot or someone else's. You also have to pay attention you don't hook something like a flag pole or drive thru your wife's Tulips with the outer wheel

Likely one of the only things I can do wrong on a tractor that would cause my untimely demise...

Beg to differ Bill... 'Course this 702 sees more time on trailer boards than dirt!

Got both guards on and some of the decals on too I have to get more paint this weekend to do the hood and foot rest

Duals increase floatation by decreasing pounds per square inch. Other than aesthetics, they are only useful where stability and floatation are needed. Like a muddy field, pulling an oversized implement. Duallies on a truck do the same thing. They spread the load out over a larger area.

Sad part is it did use to!

At first glance I thought that was a cobweb on the RT. outer tire!

Do not scrap the hubs. I can save them.

yup - very grateful for your help with the C165 - that was terrific back yard rescue we did -- would be big guess how many years that tractor was outdoors with the weeds growing up around it - amazing the Kohler survived - some tlc got it running - I bought an original WH tiller in 1989 when I bought my 312-8 -- Reese has asked for it to go to him so we're thinking tiller may be connected to C165 although he may want tiller to go on the 520HC he got 2 yrs ago? He's doing some cosmetic work on the C165 -- cleaning some tins and painting -- but soccer season has started so not sure the tractor rehab schedule? We appreciate you helping with saving the blackhoods -- including my two C175s -- especially recalling us trying to drag the one C175 with flat tire up to trailer !!! UGH !!!! Next time i'll bring another wheel to install so moving is easier. Take care - hope you are well Daryl..... attached is another couple photos for the blackhoods - Bill

My appt. with Billy Bob was delayed a day due to medical issues. Billy was still off of his feed today but he managed to get the C-160 welded back together. He used a heavy washer as a plate. More surface area to weld on and he explained the roundness will be harder to break than just another flat piece of metal. Just got to metal finish it and it will be ready for primer and paint.

Got the 1987 312-8 to run for a few seconds on carb cleaner after rebuilding the systems. Need to clean tank and get a new cap. The old ignition switch was a 6 pin, i put a five pin in it but do not have it wired correctly and cant figure it out. I have the wiring diagram but its greek to me😂 oh yeah this thing sat in a field for 20+ years.

Finally finished the homemade stack muffler for the 854. Consists of a 12" MagnaFlow glasspack muffler, cut down 1.75 ID x 1.75 OD extension, various 1" pipe fittings and the all important lower bracket to the engine to support it. Decided to do the "tink-tink-tink" rain cap instead of a turnout. What is NOT shown is the device inside to give the engine a bit of necessary back pressure. Looks & sounds fine. You need the double 45 degree fittings to drop the pipe to get it away from the hood. You DO need to readjust the carb after installing one of these. Bill

Yesterday I decided it was time The Black Horse, my C-121, had a run out. It hadn't been started for a few months though the battery has been kept charged. Usually starts right up after a squeeze or two of the primer bulb. Not this time. Turned the key and nothing, not a peep, zilch, zero. Checked battery and fully charged. Lights worked but no starter. No click from the solenoid. Not even after a gentle tap or two. Checked the wiring and connections. Checked out the switch. Still nothing. Finally after much head scratching I removed the solenoid to see if it could be taken apart. Riveted together and was contemplating drilling out the rivets when I decided to try tapping it again. But this time placing it on the solid surface of the bench. Two good bats with a hammer and when tested with a spare battery and a length of wire, it was heard to click away quite merrily. Solenoid back in place and and wired up, Turn of the key and the starter whirled away, but the engine refused to start. Squirting fuel into carb intake resulted in it trying to start. Time to check fuel supply. Disconnect fuel pipe from carb, spin the engine and not much more than a dribble from the pipe. Squeeze primer bulb and good supply of fuel came out. Pump faulty? Removed it a took it apart and found a small piece of what appeared to be rubber. Diaphragm and gaskets all appeared complete and undamaged. So from whence did it come? There's the filter in the tank and an inline filter. Both in good condition. Pump back on and lets try again. After several attempts and more squirty into the carb, Black Horse burst in to life again. A ride down the lane and back into the workshop, Engine will now idle and rev as normal. Was that little piece of rubber causing the problem and preventing the pump from working properly? Seems like it and hopefully it was.

They look cool... yes - Storage is trickier... I did it anyways...

I bought a 99 Tacoma at an auction. Truck was beautiful. I crawled all over it looking for frame rot. The auction announced frame damage. I couldn't find it and was the winning bidder. I didn't even know about the frame recall until someone told me about it. I decided to coat the frame myself. Went to crawl under and my hand went through the frame. Toyota gave me $5000 more for the truck than I paid. You want to buy American? GM wouldn't stand behind a known engine problem on my sons 13 Equinox. $8000. My 13 GMC has a known issue they won't stand behind also. Ram and Ford have their issues too. Class action lawsuits all over. A girl at work has been without the Chevy Malibu she bought a year ago for 8 months. At least Toyota takes care of some of their customers.

And just like that she has a heart again. Ended up getting the bearing from lil red barn along with the gaskets and I have to say they are very nice quality! Unfortunately I didn't get any pictures of the new bearing but definitely a nice alternative to the expensive oem! We will see how it lasts though. Mowed lawn with it this afternoon and so far so good.

That's just wrong. How's it your fault she'd put 🌹🌺🌺🌹 🌷🌷 in a place where the tractor is clearly supposed to be??!!?? Don't tell her I said that.....

All back together. Ready to mow.

Toyota had a problem with frame rot about 10 years ago. When I bought my Tacoma in 2015, dealers all had stacks of frames behind the dealerships waiting to be replaced. Mine did not have the problem, and about 3 years ago I received a voluntary service bulletin asking me to bring the truck in overnight while they dried the inside of the frame, then coated it. So far, I've had no problems. Friends of mine who purchased Dodge Rams more recently than me have had total rust out of both suspension and body. I guess it has something to do with Chinese steel. My daughter-in-law is in acquisition for JLG Lifts. They will not buy Chinese steel due to the myriad problems that accompany the imported stuff. Says something about buy it here, build it here.

New homemade trailer hitch quieter downer... parts on hand... u bolt and a bit of w section sign post... tight and quiet.

The Kohler Courage Engine is the very weak one. I seen lots of design issues with those. The Command engines are pretty good. Probably nothing is going to top those old Kohlers. As with either one, small air cooled engines rely on the oil being clean and at the full level. Really increases the life.

A old round hoods with 6x12 R1 duallys looks good, but that about it. The only reason large farm tractors use them is they will pull the same equipment one gear higher then the singles. So getting the field done quicker is the only reason that I know.

I had duals on my C-141 loader tractor. Although it definitely helped with the stability it didn’t help the axle bearings. Storage was another issue, it definitely takes up more room with the duals. Years ago I cut down some tire chains from a tractor trailer that spanned both wheels! That I must say not only looked really cool but also worked well. I have the tire chain tool which is absolutely necessary when working on chains. Since I got a two stage blower I really don’t use the loader tractor in the snow anymore. I agree that a tall skinny tire is the best for snow.

A narrow 6-12 snow tire is more effective than an 23-8.50-12 tire in snow - narrow tire sinks in, the wider one rides on top...

Pros: Looks cool to some. Me included. Cons: You could potentially REDUCE snow traction. Not increase it. Snow/ice traction is all about pounds per square inch of down pressure. Want more snow traction... Add more weight or ice cleats. Another thing to carefully consider is the levering effect on the axle by the outside tire. You do have a legitimate concern for breaking the axle if the outside tire takes all the weight of an already heavy machine. This can be reduced by running the air pressure lower.

Hey Steve been asked by @PeacemakerJack to share some pics. Does this look familiar? Says the elder Reverend Stertz put his 875 on it just for posterity. Is that a thing of beauty or what? Misspelled the title... 953nuts fat fingers...

Happy Birthday @buckeyes, we are glad you were born!

I pit a couple drips around the prefilter and then squeeze it out. I like a light coat of oil on it all o er.

SOLD SOLD SOLD I have one I’ll sell. email me through the forum. all original paint, tires etc. no deck.

Interesting thing about those Toyota frame issues back then is that it was actually an American company out of Ohio (Dana Corp) that didn’t properly treat or coat the frames before the Toyota trucks were assembled here in the US. Toyota got lots of bad press, I realize ultimately anything with the Toyota emblem on it is their responsibility (and they stepped up big time replacing zillions of frames), but it’s interesting how an American company actually botched the frames.

Just as Cecil and Elmer intended......

Right. This morning about 10 I thought about telling the boss I pooped my pants. Figured I would probably be sent directly home to have a 3.5day weekend 😆🤣😂

Horror Frt model you big goof!

Waldomobile got the 5&20 warranty. I soon as I drove on RT. 5& 20 when I got it the warranty was used up. Time to trade in your W.T. Grants battery charger.

Doesn't look to be orginal ... 1045 painted over...I best come get it....

People just beg for more and more salt thinking it is about safety while driving wasted junk with wasted brakes and more. We can’t fix stupid.

I have the bigger brother to your 12hp, the 15 HP Command Pro in my 315-8. It's a great engine with power to turn a 48" deck effortlessly, sips fuel, and is quiet. It doesn't quite have the torque of my C165, but for just mowing, it is more than adequate. Don't waste your money on oem oil filters where a filter off a late model Ford Fusion 1.5L will fit them just fine and a third of the price. The one issue I do not like is how the air filter is small and gets very dirty since it draws a lot of air from the flywheel shroud. Keep the filter clean; I wash and reoil the foam filter 4-5 times a year even though I run mine about twenty hours a year at this point.

The old solid cast iron Kohler K and Magnums are just about bulletproof. That's why so many still run 60+ years later. But the Commands are definitely decent engines. They will never last as long as the old engines, but should give many year's service if properly maintained. Regular servicing and ethanol-free gas are your friends.

Only offset keys pretty much were on some Tecumseh engines - Briggs pretty mush only ever used the one 222698 flywheel key in L-Heads, with a few exceptions on older Letter series, etc which had a bolt-on key, and a few that had half moon keys but 99.999% of the Briggs flywheel keys I had ever replaced, stocked, or had problems with were the aluminum 222698 keys. (the 5002 part number was briggs display packaged version of same key) Aftermarket keys also work fine. Flywheel pullers , there were a few different sizes, and relatively cheap - the ones that you use self-threading bolts into the puller holes were the better ones than any jaw pullers.

1257 is a great Wheel Horse Model, good power and none of the electronic thingies that cause problems.

I would NOT use dual wheels on an early tractor with 3 bolt rear hubs. Those are a weak link. Better to go with full circle 5 bolt hubs.....

Couple of black hoods over here. My C-125 and my mate in Scotland's C-125. My C-125 having a rest from mowing duties and giving grand daughter a ride. My mates C-125 working for its keep. BTW That's not me on the left before any comments from certain parties. And that's my mate Dunc on the tractor.

lovin the blackhoods -- my two C175h's, plus my grandson's C165-8

The 312-H at my son’s home had always required a lot of effort to steer. We could see that it had some toe-out so at the Big Show I picked up a pair of adjustable tie-rods and some thrust bearings. I was going to simply grind off some of the spindle holder area of the axle to accommodate the thrust washers but @ri702bill offered me a way to avoid the “hack job”. On Monday, I brought him the axle and spindles and he applied his expertise and equipment to mill a bunch of thousandths of an inch off the bottoms of the front axle spindle holders to make room for the thrust bearings and into the bargain make them flat and perpendicular to the bore. (Watching him setup and operate the milling machine was a treat!) While doing that we discovered the root cause of the toe-out and at least some of the hard steering. One of the steering arms had been bent at some point prior to our ownership--so much that it wasn’t even hitting the stop cast into the axle! Carefully un-bent (?) the damaged steering arm and reinstalled the axle with the new thrust bearings and then installed and adjusted the replacement tie rods. Wonder of wonders, vastly improved steering!

This one was for sale 39 years ago until I bought it from the dealer 😂 39 years to the month! Used it like crazy and restored it a few years ago.

That's a pretty machine! I wasn't fond of the black hoods until I cam across a C-165. Maybe it's because it's a 160, or a black hood. IDK? Glad to bring her home. My favorite

My first and only blackhood my C-145 with the rototiler and snowblower.

Cheers from my C-105 to yours...