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The recyclers are busy every day. Processing the old chopped sweet corn into fertilizer (goose poop).

Finally finished the homemade stack muffler for the 854. Consists of a 12" MagnaFlow glasspack muffler, cut down 1.75 ID x 1.75 OD extension, various 1" pipe fittings and the all important lower bracket to the engine to support it. Decided to do the "tink-tink-tink" rain cap instead of a turnout. What is NOT shown is the device inside to give the engine a bit of necessary back pressure. Looks & sounds fine. You need the double 45 degree fittings to drop the pipe to get it away from the hood. You DO need to readjust the carb after installing one of these. Bill

The 312-H at my son’s home had always required a lot of effort to steer. We could see that it had some toe-out so at the Big Show I picked up a pair of adjustable tie-rods and some thrust bearings. I was going to simply grind off some of the spindle holder area of the axle to accommodate the thrust washers but @ri702bill offered me a way to avoid the “hack job”. On Monday, I brought him the axle and spindles and he applied his expertise and equipment to mill a bunch of thousandths of an inch off the bottoms of the front axle spindle holders to make room for the thrust bearings and into the bargain make them flat and perpendicular to the bore. (Watching him setup and operate the milling machine was a treat!) While doing that we discovered the root cause of the toe-out and at least some of the hard steering. One of the steering arms had been bent at some point prior to our ownership--so much that it wasn’t even hitting the stop cast into the axle! Carefully un-bent (?) the damaged steering arm and reinstalled the axle with the new thrust bearings and then installed and adjusted the replacement tie rods. Wonder of wonders, vastly improved steering!

In a post I had on the Forum before - I made an adapter to put a Vise-Grip on the front of an automotive dent puller. Use it to pull stuck axle keys. Recently used it to pull rusted square cut nails from my front porch floor.

This one was for sale 39 years ago until I bought it from the dealer 😂 39 years to the month! Used it like crazy and restored it a few years ago.

A narrow 6-12 snow tire is more effective than an 23-8.50-12 tire in snow - narrow tire sinks in, the wider one rides on top...

Pros: Looks cool to some. Me included. Cons: You could potentially REDUCE snow traction. Not increase it. Snow/ice traction is all about pounds per square inch of down pressure. Want more snow traction... Add more weight or ice cleats. Another thing to carefully consider is the levering effect on the axle by the outside tire. You do have a legitimate concern for breaking the axle if the outside tire takes all the weight of an already heavy machine. This can be reduced by running the air pressure lower.

I have two 1-1/8" hubs each with TWO locking bolts.. These will most certainly fit your 1257. They are completely sandblasted, primer, and repainted. Key slots are NOT damaged at all...Two NEW lock bolt with Jam nuts each. $70 per hub... $10 to ship in USA. If buying TWO hubs, free shipping. Paypal

I would just call him like it says in the description. He knows exactly what you need no doubt. At least then you know you are talking to THE guy

Took the mini International out for a spin tonight and drove to where my girlfriends horse is parked to do some manure hauling again. There and back is about 1.5 miles total. It did fine and the new belt and pulleys seemed to have helped quiet it down a bit. Even crossed some substantial puddles, about a foot deep, and it did'nt even flinch. Knowing it CAN do it is something else than really doing it. Also found that despite the narrow front wheels it doesn't dig in as much as what I had anticipated. It probably helped that I left the front weights at home on this trip. Only thing I definately need to change is the seat. It's hard mounted and very unforgiving, no bueno when driving long(er) distances. Also lost my brake drum along the way but was lucky enough to find it again on my way home. Have to look into what happened there. Another thing I noticed regarding the throttle and/or carb is that the engine did'nt want to come back to idle again once I drove full throttle for a while. Seems to me there's something not quite right yet.

Been over to my mates in Scotland. There's about 200 ash trees to come down due to ash dieback. Last year a chap who has a tree felling and training business, did a lot of branch lopping with trainees. He said he'd come back and clear away the brash. Needless to say he never did. So today I've been helping my mate and his wife clear away some of the brash. While they loaded the tractor and trailer I was in charge of the bonfire. I think a drew the short straw. Of course it turned out to be a nice hot sunny day. Not the best of days for feeding a bonfire. I usually leave around 3-30pm. I have a 54 mile drive and mostly in heavy traffic. By 3pm my mate asked if I was ready for going home. I said I was ready at lunch time. I was well and truly ready and for a nice shower by the time I got home at 4-45pm. I smell a bit sweeter now.

Cobra Chickens! They make quick work of any kind of agricultural debris. They descend by the thousands on the farm field behind my house each fall after the combine is done doing its thing. I remember thirty years ago when I used to travel to southern Illinois to hunt geese because they weren’t as common here. Now they are everywhere and stick around all year never even bothering to migrate. So much open water at housing developments, office parks, and golf courses they don’t have to leave. And it’s warmer in the winter too. And man do they generate the waste faster than xxxx through a goose. Steve

Much like the 754, there is no manual to document the 1046 model. If I remember correctly there is only a single typed page, like a factory memo, describing the parts that make it different from the 1056. Edit... Found it.

According to the usage chart, you need Kit #6. Best to call the Vendor to confirm.

PM each other on RS for crying out loud.

duels decrease the pound per square inch. thought that was the reason for using them to not compact the soil???

great workers

Man after my own heart. You can't beat a map.

Did ya find the pics? Did a little maintenance on the mini IH 1468 today. Straigtened the pulley on the gearbox since it seemed something got jammed in there at some point in time and bent the flanges out a bit. Still not perfect but much better than before. Also, three new pulleys and a new drivebelt were installed. Old ones were crusty and bearings were shot. Also the pvc flat idler pulley had some flat spots in it from being stuck and the drivebelt wearing a groove in it. Ordered Murray part numbers and got B&S parts which are identical. I'm not complaining. Also new belt because the old one had seen better days. Last but not least installed some new sparkplugs in hopes that would help the engine run a bit smoother. Old plugs were totally black/full of soot which to me indicates it's running rich(?). Can't really find out how to change the mixture on this carb but as a precaution also ordered a new airfilter and pre-filter. Choke seems to work okay and carb has been rebuilt fairly recently. Any input would be appreciated.

Flywheel looks fine to me, I'd run it. The 1/8" bend in the PTO shaft may not seem like much, until you're running at 3600RPMs. Then there will most likely be some vibration.

I finished up cleaning and rebuilding the carburetor this evening. Took a fair amount of extra time on this one because it was painted black and covered with dirt so it had a bunch alternating dips and sprays in the ultrasonic cleaner and brake clean. Here's the before n after.

Not today but yesterday I got in some “wind therapy” with my dad. He’s not ready to give up his two wheeler just yet at 81 years old. So we get out together a few times in the summer and fall for a ride. 120 miles today. We stopped up in Massachusetts and I whipped out my phone and he his folded paper map so we could plan out our route home . I gotta admit, it was easier to chose a route back towards home with his paper map. His is technically a scooter (no gears and a step thru design, just twist and go). But it’s an in-line twin cylinder fuel injected 650cc and it’s claimed that it will do 110 MPH !! So not your average scooter! I buzzed it up to 90 probably 6 years ago and I could tell it had plenty more MPH’s to go. Both machines are Suzukis… mine is also a 650cc. 2011 Suzuki VStrom 650 2008 Suzuki Bergman 650

1990 312-8 Garden Tractor 8 Speed Kohler M12S-471527

Mine is 5 bolt rears. But given the issue of the weight distribution, which I hadn't considered, I may just keep those wheels/tires for spares.

I had duals on my C-141 loader tractor. Although it definitely helped with the stability it didn’t help the axle bearings. Storage was another issue, it definitely takes up more room with the duals. Years ago I cut down some tire chains from a tractor trailer that spanned both wheels! That I must say not only looked really cool but also worked well. I have the tire chain tool which is absolutely necessary when working on chains. Since I got a two stage blower I really don’t use the loader tractor in the snow anymore. I agree that a tall skinny tire is the best for snow.

Pros 1. they look cool 2. traction may be better on ice Cons 1. In many cases, they reduce traction in mud and snow 2. Wheel width may be wider than the blade or blower 3. more bending moment on the axle and hub

I would NOT use dual wheels on an early tractor with 3 bolt rear hubs. Those are a weak link. Better to go with full circle 5 bolt hubs.....

Welcome!! Best to place an ad in the Wanted section of the classifieds here. There are several versions of the 1-1/8" hub - all interchangable if it has the 5 bolt pattern. SOME come with two setscrews - those are the most desirable to stop the hub from moving.

Now that might be worth going to. The July Thresher Reunion is absolutely the hottest place on earth, and quite miserable given you can't ride tractors around. No, I'd better not. I love C10s, and don't need any more projects... But it's only about 20 minutes down the road. Definitely let me know when you're passing by! We'll grab a milkshake and a cheeseburger!

Couple of black hoods over here. My C-125 and my mate in Scotland's C-125. My C-125 having a rest from mowing duties and giving grand daughter a ride. My mates C-125 working for its keep. BTW That's not me on the left before any comments from certain parties. And that's my mate Dunc on the tractor.

Finally got to do some testing. And the verdict is: Needs some tweaking, but works very well. The trailing wheels still need more adjustable range. They do the trick, but I need some fine adjustment to set how deep the blade's cut is currently. The two lowest settings are too low and too high- so I need something in the middle. But, it does work. Vast improvement over using solid links. I can fill the box to the top and the old Bronco begrudgingly just keeps on pulling. Before when the box was full, the tiniest bump would result in wheel spin. No longer an issue. And the box is very heavy. Even with over 100lbs of weights up front, the front wheels occasionally slide in a turn when the box is lifted. Big block Kohler + extra weight still not enough... I noticed some of these style setups utilize lifting at the wheels themselves. Makes sense, and something like a linear actuator may be better suited for adjusting and lifting while in use.

lovin the blackhoods -- my two C175h's, plus my grandson's C165-8

Better hope the dirt and paint weren’t essential to its operation!

Thanks gentlemen, that's a relief about the flywheel. I do plan to use a torque wrench on it... I've seen specs from OutdoorPowerInfo.com and other sources that say 55 ft.-lbs. for the flywheel nut for this series of Briggs engines (it's a 125K02), does that sound about right? Taryl's video was one of several that I saw for straightening the crankshaft. It's a good one, but I'm a little nervous about hitting the shaft with a hammer. If I can get the blade adapter off, I might be more inclined to use a pipe like Steve's Small Engine Saloon does in this video (although his method is risky too):

In Kohler nomenclature the "A" indicates a special oil pan. The last letter of the Spec. number will let you know what camshaft was used. on the 241 a Spec with A, B or C is spark advance. Spec of D or higher will have the ACR cam.

@Achto, @WHX??That "I brought more Homelite tractors than he brought Wheel Horses" look on Todd's face makes me laugh.

Happy Birthday Lola @Mrs. Redo we are all glad you were born!

No concerns using the flywheel. If it is going to fail, it will fail when you tighten it down. Do not lubricate the shaft or the flywheel just clean. and don't use an impact just hand wrench and best a torque wrench to spec. The bent output shaft can be straightened and there are several vids on the tube show how.

I just used this kit to pull the brgs. out of gear drive deck drive pulley yesterday. Horror Fright And I have used this kit to pull the brg out of the input gear on a couple of 3 spd transmissions. Amazon

I am mowing again! On reflection, I believe my problems came from a faulty rectifier connection and a faulty ammeter connection. I was puzzled that I had no electrical power after the engine stalled (no soleniod click, no lights...) The more I thought about it it seem logical the I had a problem in the circuit between the battery and the key switch. I believe the engine was not starving for fuel it was starving for spark. Since there are only a few connections, a 25 amp fuse and the ammeter in the circuit. I bypassed the ammeter and I have electric power when I need it, I just twisted the wires together and put a wire nut on the connection. I have ordered a volt gauge to put in where the ammeter was. My stalling-out problem was operator error. In my search for problems, I removed the carb and cleaned it and remounted it. Unfortunately I had set the main fuel and idle needles too lean so I was running the engine very hot. I had set the points at 0.020" and static timed them but I must have done something wrong because when I checked the points again I noticed that the old points had a wider gap. - so I also had an ignitation problem as well. I got everything back together and took it to my mechanic friend who said he thought it was running well. So far new points, new condenser, new coil, new plug, new plug wire, new battery, new rectifier, cleaned carb, proper valve clearance, dedicated ground wires to the rectifier, solenoid, and head lights, I mowed some fairly heavy grass for a few minutes this afternoon and everything seemed to be OK. I appreciate all of you who provided suggestions and input on my problems.

There's lots of different tips and doodads to put on them for different tasks. Start with one of those little kits that have a few with it. Something like this

Happy Birthday Lola I sure missed you at the big show this year. Hope you have a great day! Now let me sing for you. Her name was Lola, she was a...

I gotta tell ya this tractor is a beast. It’s built for work for sure, all it’s missing is the two speed tranny for heavy ground engagement duties. When I start my C-160 and this guy side by side I can’t really tell much difference in the two. My 1046’s days of heavy work are over for now. I just fire it up and spin it around the property. It is the smoothest operating tractor I own.

80-84. I like them...

I agree 100% Pete. It’s best to eliminate/ fix the issues and up grade to a better solution. I like the wire holders on the next post and will order them. I will hopefully make some head way on this today. Will keep you all posted.

@Pullstart if you want to see lubrication creep , get some KROIL , never had a lubricant travel like that , glad you got something in there , better oil / than rust , go greasy , Pete

Houston we have problem ... now Dan wants to build a puller...

Cheers!