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Just checking on Collosus. Sorry. Been a long time and I forgot how to spell Colossus.

So I finally got around to picking this up from my grandfather today. He's been telling me for months to come take it. He bought this in the very early 80s used and has used it very lightly himself. I've been fascinated with this tractor since i was a kid, i remember going over with my father and then we would drive the tractor to our house down the road and mow the lawn. This tractor is what got me interested in wheel horses, and this is my3rd one in the garage. I've also got a c175 with Briggs opposed 18hp twin and a 312-8 but i think this c160 is even slightly nicer built than the c175... It's been mostly parked in his garage the last 15 years or so. It started right up today and never missed a beat. the battery is from 2012 and still cranks the thing over. It's got a 42-inch rear discharge and a snowblower with wheel weights and chains. The hour meter says 187 but i don't think it's working any longer as i ran it for about 30 minutes today and it didn't move. My plans are to do maintenance on it, give it a good washing and then a wipe down with MMO to preserve it as-is Pics are at this link - C160 - Imgur

I bought one a while back. Probably get a little serious about messing with it this winter…

The Trina person and I have been hangin' out in the Great North Maine Woods for 5 days. Absolutely wonderful week. Weather was near to perfect until light rain today on the way home. We saw a Momma moose 🫎 with a baby. An adult female deer 🦌 told us off. 🙂 LOTS of bird life. We bushwhacked several miles Tuesday to find where a road comes out. Rest Wednesday with some AR15 target practice. Thursday we hiked Big Spencer mountain. Best I've felt in at least 2 years. Pics to come later.....

867 in the garage for fluids/grease…

I built one from a furnace blower for fun. It worked good, but Mother Nature blew all my leaves away before I could get to them. I sold it at this years Big Show.

And stained

You're awesome N'ahmm. If'n it makes ya feel any better I been getting the feelin' of attacking this project again. 😃

Well it is mostly a 753.. Hydro lift for the sickle. Wobble box modified to have a more usual eccentric pitman set up. 8 speed tranny Cute don't yah think??

Most Doodlebugs were built from late '20s/early '30 trucks. They were not from kits, just good old farmer ingenuity. Wish I had a picture of ourrs. It was built from a 1929 Ford AA truck.. The cab and doors were removed, frame was shortened and a four foot by four foot slab of concrete about eight inches thick was over the rear axle for added traction. Ours had two transmissions as @Ed Kennell mentioned and we used it for pulling hay wagons from the field to the barn. The brakes were the biggest shortcoming on the Ford doodlebugs, no front brakes and mechanical brakes for the rear wheels. The transmissions have square-cut gears so down-shifting to slow down was nearly imposable and a loaded hay wagon weighs in at about five thousand pounds each. Quite often we would be pulling two wagons at a time toward the end of the day to save a little time. In the winter the Doodlebug got a good workout pulling sleds and old car hoods loaded up with firewood or a load or kids from the surrounding farms.

Not to shabby for free.

Brought this beauty home today. She's not feeling well. (Popped valve seat). The stable is overflowing but always welcome another one if opportunity arises. Saved this one from the scrap guy. Not happening on my watch.

Tomorrow (saturday) I'll be attending the annual harvest-show again with my mini International 1468. Spent today sandblasting and painting some more parts aswell as mounting said parts. Note, the grey on the grille is just a zinc-spray base coat. My preffered supplier of paint is closed for the summer holidays so I could'nt get the actual right color for it. The exhaust 'headers' are painted with a heat resistant grey which I like better than I expected. Most of the time I tend to paint exhausts black but I opted to go this route because the original tractors also seems to have grey instead of black exhausts. May seem a bit too grey all together now but that will change once I get to laying down some red paint. Besides that I finally fixed the fuel system for good. I ditched the fancy gas shutoff because I could'nt get it to seal properly. It's an aftermarket part and seems to lack some crucial features. Lesson learned, simple is better. Looks good.. But sadly doesn't work! Simple in-line version works perfectly. Might (have to) add a filter later on but that's an easy fix.

THX guys , much appreciated. I am getting new set screws, a couple of KEYS and I am going to use a Nylock NUT to lock down the set screw. I did check the axle shaft and did not notice anything NOT correct. I now know why CUPPED set screw tips rather than flat, yes, I made it worse. I did notice on the KEY that the cup screw location was worn from tightening over the years. This is a 1979 /C 81, I love it to death !

wet with oil at 35 dry 45 One very much overlooked problems is If the hub bore is worn (the bore not the key). The bore, key way and sets are all part of the mechanical system to hold the hub on to the shaft. Hubs should not be lubricated when installed. Remember, we are trying to keep it together not come apart. When the set screws are tightened this applies a mechanical tension to the bore. Lubrication causes all the stress to shift to the small set screws. Of course the key is there for the rotating forces. A big mistake is using a hub with a worn bore. As a frugal member myself, I know replacement hubs are not cheap and we try to avoid that expense. If your going to use it for heavy duty work or where safety is a concern, (hills/inclines) replacement with a good part is essential. In part, if the hub when slid on to the shaft has any play, the chances of the hub staying tight under high loading is slim. Extreme looseness example. Also, if your shaft is worn the same problem will exist. Three fixes for a worn shaft. Of course the worse case is a new shaft and replacement. Another option is using a substance in the joint to take up the space. I have used Loctite 660 retaining compound when the shaft had a couple thousands play. with good results. If the shaft is worn and you have a good hub this stuff works pretty good. Another option is the taper-lock hub manufactured by A-Z. A little pricey but is solid and will work on a shaft worn up to .005 even with a bad key. I have used these on a 522xi, a thousand pound machine, loaded tires and being run hard with no issues.

Here's one I seen at a local show.

One framed up.

I've had good luck with this liquid electrical tape. Temp fix would be fine.

They are multiplying……and technically this was yesterday but I did move them this morning. They will be getting a grey weathered cedar frame next.

Ate like kings at the ocean today, right after I took this picture they dumped a ton of shrimp on the pile. Once a year the guys from my firehouse do a seafood boil

Hello Everyone, I just wanted to update you on my issues with getting my 417A running again. After throwing my hands up a couple of times I started to relook at everything. Come to find out that my intake valve retainer spring had cracked in half. That's why the carb was spitting back fuel when I tried cranking the motor. That's also why my compression readings were so off. I pulled the head to see if there was any damage done to the intake valve but luckily it was fine. I ordered a new a new spring cap and when that arrived I compressed the valve retainer spring, added the new cap, and very carefully reset the retainers. I added a new head gasket and torqued it to the suggested specifications. With all the issues with the carb I ordered a replacement through I savetractors.com. I then changed the fuel filter along with some of the fuel lines and spark plugs and crossed my fingers. She fired up and after that I finished replacing the baffles and shroud and went out and mowed the lawn. I just wanted to thank everyone for their help and guidance tin helping me troubleshoot this problem. Regards, Bob

That's all I need. . Creates a hankerin'. Leads to a tinkerin'...

Excellent tractor!! I've... A few. Definitely a top shelf worker.

For $20 you can just do them yourself plus have the tool to tap anymore holes in the future. If you don't have a tap handle, a small adjustable wrench works too but but support it with the other hand until it gets deep enough https://www.ebay.com/itm/194463789882?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-213727-13078-0&mkcid=2&itemid=194463789882&targetid=4580359295528868&device=c&mktype=&googleloc=&poi=&campaignid=437225724&mkgroupid=1228154759183859&rlsatarget=pla-4580359295528868&abcId=9300907&merchantid=51291&msclkid=e631c1a8602e1f0a54c1a54165a97912

Since they are not original and not well-aligned, I’m thinking they were drilled by a PO to hold accessory switches. On the ’63 and ’64 round hood models, ignition switch and starter buttons were on the hood stand instead of the dash so adding the HY meant finding another home for those--usually into a box bolted to the left side of the hood stand. It almost looks like the left hole was for a “big buttton” starter switch and the right for an ignition key.

Same thing happened with my Raider 12. All we did was take it to a machine shop and had the drill another hole just to secure it even more. Haven’t had a problem since.

Mine is an Arc loader but has similar round tubes for stilts. I made mine 2x4 and steel rod. Long enough to hold the loader frame high enough to back D200 out. Put the things in angled to the rear. stand on tractor lift up till the legs are straight down. The ARC loader has a nice cross brace between the towers to lift on.

I hadn’t heard of this brand until it was mentioned by a very satisfied owner on another forum I frequent. He’s got one of the mid-range models and reports several acres of mowing on a partial charge. Very interesting and neat. Mean Green Mowers I realize electric isn’t for everybody and they aren’t giving these away, but these look to be viable for a lot of applications. GE was 50 years ahead of their time with those old Elec-Traks. Steve

I recently picked up a new to me tractor and the gentleman I bought it from has one of these. It’s not something you see very often. From what I understand these were kits to convert a tractor into a car/truck. I need to find more info. How cool is that?

Oh so nice... outstanding W-H work Rich!

I can't imagine getting enough gear in a kayak to satisfy me. Canoes are convenient, practical transportation.

The kits actually converted a car or truck into a tractor.

Nice! I would guess Lincoln is a regional brand. Never heard of them here in the Land of Lincoln (Illinois). The texture in the bottom inside looks like fiberglass woven roving which is quite strong and very tough. Usually in boats you see a lot of chop strand mat which lays down smooth but isn’t nearly as durable. I’d imagine it would bounce off rocks and be very damage tolerant. What would you guess it weighs? I’d bet it’s 75 pounds or so just scaling off aluminum and Kevlar. Kind of heavy?? I love canoes and canoeing. We don’t have a “nice” canoe right now, just an incredibly heavy 17’ aluminum, and it’s a handful to take anywhere by myself. My wife doesn’t know it, but at some point over the next year I’m hoping to get an ultralight Kevlar canoe to use for pond fishing around here. They are insanely expensive new, but used ones can be reasonable if you don’t mind bumps and bruises. I just need to get a rack on the roof of the truck and I’ll be set. I think you’re right that Kayaks have taken over in popularity, but they’re not for me. There’s something a bit romantic about paddling a canoe and I think they are more versatile. And from what I can tell, kayaks are pretty heavy for what they are. Get it wet while the weather is still cooperative. Steve

I see you at tractor shows, not truck shows. Currently, most of them need some work to get back out again. This was our wedding day (almost 20 years ago), I drove my ‘72 Chevelle and two of my friends that stood up drove my ‘46 and ‘66 trucks.

I agree, but my point is if the driver assist is in place, it may just prevent the idiot from crossing into your lane in which case the driver assist of the idiots auto may save you. Maybe I should add. I would never ride in any auto that is on auto pilot. I don't even like to ride in an auto unless I am the driver. As stated earlier, there are some features of the driver assist system that I like and am certain help prevent the type of accident that @Gregor experienced when he started this thread. My rear sensing system has all ready alerted me of people and autos crossing behind me while I was backing out of parking spaces and my driveway.

Very nice. Do you deliver?

Like John and Paul said, Buy new cup point set screws and do not grind off the sharp cups. Add the second set screw at 90 degrees. Also check the fit of the key in the axle and hub slot. A new slot can easily be cut in the hub if it is worn. Replace the key if it is worn. I have used oversize (wider) keys and hand fit them to worn axle and hub key slots. Badly worn axle keyways can also be repaired by welding. Two part tapered locking hubs can also be purchased from A-Z Tractor.

For as inexpensive as they are, replace the Woodriff key when you change the set screw.

Most of us can’t count that high…in front of our wives, when it comes to tractors

Now that falls under, “having my cake and eating it too”!😂 A truck and a GTO—why didn’t I think of that?🤔 thanks for sharing!

Pontiac GTO "Camino" outside a restaurant in town.

That is the nice thing about being retired , it is always nap time.

Seeing @Sparkys 867 reminded me that I should get my Commando 8 out. Hasn’t been out in years! At the big show this year I bought a set of cultivators for it, even though I don’t have a garden!! I’m going to take them back off and paint them because they probably won’t see dirt for a while. I know, I know it has the wrong hood decals!!

Dragged out the 867 after being in the back of the shed for almost 10 months.. fired right up

Here is some information I saved from a post by @Save Old Iron. If an engine idles well, but runs erratically when revved up, like it hits and misses, pops and backfires, then chances are, it needs a new condenser/capacitor. And always install a condenser/capacitor with the wire facing downward so rain water and/or when washing off engine, water will not enter inside condenser/capacitor, ruining it. With water inside the condenser, this will also allow it to idle well, but cause it to run erratically when revved up.

Some more sandblasting and primer. Blasting. I obviously need some better dust extraction. Blasted and degreased. Zinc primer is on.

About $500 USD!!!! - and your Fire Box is probably on the right !!! No, seriously, what @OldWorkHorse has is the best of both worlds