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My box blade is one of my best toys. I made it years ago from a 42 inch dozer blade, and have used it alot. The trouble is, it's not good for light grading. It's great for filling holes and such, but lightly smoothing just don't work. So- I'm making an adjustable wheel set to ride behind it to hold the cutting depth, and it will use the factory holes for adjustment. I'm also removing my solid lift links from the three point to allow proper float. I'm gonna just use a pair of chains. Hope to do some testing tomorrow. I just want to barely scrape the top of the gravel in my driveway. More to come...

Pick this guy up on a whim. Been wanting a 701 for awhile and found one with all the right parts. I’d planned on assembling one from pieces due to the rarity of these guys. However I found one that was mostly complete minus tires and couldn’t pass it up. Redone about 15 years ago it’s not perfect but close enough for me. Gitty up!

I recently picked up a new to me tractor and the gentleman I bought it from has one of these. It’s not something you see very often. From what I understand these were kits to convert a tractor into a car/truck. I need to find more info. How cool is that?

Brought this beauty home today. She's not feeling well. (Popped valve seat). The stable is overflowing but always welcome another one if opportunity arises. Saved this one from the scrap guy. Not happening on my watch.

I recently acquired my 522xi back that I sold a few years back. This will be my main mowing machine again. Since getting it back home I have been looking for a 60" deck for it but nothing local. So figured I'd see how my luck is at my local dealer (relative). With hopes of finding a good used one, but no luck. What I did find was 2 Nos one the never have been mounted or seen grass. The bottoms are like new but tops are sun faded from years of being outside in the sun. One is a 1996 and other is a 1998. They look better all cleaned up.

Most of us can’t count that high…in front of our wives, when it comes to tractors

Lots of Model A Ford doddlebug tractors in my area. They usually have a second transmission in series or a Ruxell 2 speed rear to supply lower gearing. Most were built in the 1940s when new tractors were not available due to the war. This is the first parade queen iI have seen. Beautiful work. Here's a local one made from a Chevy body.

So I have owned several canoes over the years. Sold the last one a few yrs ago and figured my canoing days were over. Last week at an estate sale I ran across this one. It was the last day of the sale so everything was 50% off. I scooped it up. Did some research on it after I bought it. Made by Lincoln. Age I'm guessing built in the 90s. It's Fiberglass and barely a scratch on it. Was inside a 3 car garage. I'm guessing for a very long time. The cane seats were dry rotted so I just replaced them with wood. 17 footer, faux birch bark. Lincoln is still in business. Small canoe and kayak builders. Built one at a time by hand they claim. Out of Massachusetts. This canoe is very well built. Might try to put it in the water this weekend. Going see if I can " flip" it by winter as I don't want to leave it outside. My question is has anyone ever heard of Lincoln Canoe ? Do folks still like canoes or have kayaks taken over ? I'm thinking kayaks are the choice these days.

That one looks nicely done. Usually their all ratty. Be a show show cruiser fer sure. @wallfish

So far I've never had to make one a parts machine. I've brought them all back to being a functional operating machine again. This one is definitely being put back into service, but around here it'll be put on light duty because I split the work between all 35 horses, easy life for em.

That's a pretty nice find !!! Think Stevebo might be up your butt like a broken bicycle seat in order to get one from ya once he finds out you have 2! Or did he already get one?

Hello Everyone, I just wanted to update you on my issues with getting my 417A running again. After throwing my hands up a couple of times I started to relook at everything. Come to find out that my intake valve retainer spring had cracked in half. That's why the carb was spitting back fuel when I tried cranking the motor. That's also why my compression readings were so off. I pulled the head to see if there was any damage done to the intake valve but luckily it was fine. I ordered a new a new spring cap and when that arrived I compressed the valve retainer spring, added the new cap, and very carefully reset the retainers. I added a new head gasket and torqued it to the suggested specifications. With all the issues with the carb I ordered a replacement through I savetractors.com. I then changed the fuel filter along with some of the fuel lines and spark plugs and crossed my fingers. She fired up and after that I finished replacing the baffles and shroud and went out and mowed the lawn. I just wanted to thank everyone for their help and guidance tin helping me troubleshoot this problem. Regards, Bob

Not to shabby for free.

Mike is a little confused. The spline shaft has the fork gears on it. Mike is thinking of the cluster gear shaft. The trans is a 3 speed #5007, #5025 to #5053 (depending on what horse it came out of. I would call it a #5025 until you open it. The differences would show themselves as 1. size of drain and fill plugs 2. shift rails and how the groves are cut. Anyway, it is a 3 speed with reverse, uni-drive because of where the brake drum is located...on the mushroom gear 11/44 tooth gear. The bearing and seal information is in PDF #2 here. https://www.wheelhorseforum.com/topic/42506-bearing-and-seal-cross-numbers/

5045 used in 953 5047 used in 1054 5051 used in 1054A 5058 used in 1057 and 1257 5059 service replacement for 5045, 5047 and 5051

Like John and Paul said, Buy new cup point set screws and do not grind off the sharp cups. Add the second set screw at 90 degrees. Also check the fit of the key in the axle and hub slot. A new slot can easily be cut in the hub if it is worn. Replace the key if it is worn. I have used oversize (wider) keys and hand fit them to worn axle and hub key slots. Badly worn axle keyways can also be repaired by welding. Two part tapered locking hubs can also be purchased from A-Z Tractor.

Yep, using a solid 1/2-inch pin across the top. The bolt is just temp for "shop stare and thunk" purposes.

Well done sir! Even if you have to make it a parts machine, saving from scrap is always a good thing.

@Tractorhead My definition of an aggressive driver does include speed, but it’s more broad than that. Aggressive drivers are those of us who always feel the need to be up in the front of the pack or passing everyone else on the road. Most of the time it shows up with frequent and rapid bursts of acceleration and braking…rushing up to the cars in front of them and then applying the brakes to reign it in. Being quick to jump into the intersection when the stoplight turns green, frequently sailing through the intersection on a yellow, not wanting to yield lane position to merging traffic…these sorts of things. It’s generally being impatient or unforgiving of others’ driving or mistakes and making the roadway a competitive zone. I wish I could say this aggression was a city behavior or a rural behavior, but it doesn’t seem to know boundaries. It’s easy to spot though. A large percentage of the interstate highways here in the USA are very open and relatively free from traffic. Many probably resemble your Autobahn or other European roadways with no posted speed limits. There are some locations in the American West where there aren’t posted speed limits, but most areas are limited to 65 or 70 mph (100-115 kph). On many occasions when I host international visitors – especially those from Germany and Italy – they remark how off it is that we have such low allowable speeds. I can’t help but think the pockmarked roads and crumbing bridges probably have a lot to do with this… It’s very common for people who I really wouldn’t otherwise consider to be aggressive drivers to exceed those speeds. The Police seem to be largely indifferent to some degree of speeding and – I presume – focus on those motorists who are presenting hazards in some other way. For what it’s worth, I don’t usually exceed the speed limit as long as traffic allows. It’s not that I’m prudish or a model citizen, but rather it’s because my cars (every car in fact) gets better fuel economy at lower speeds than at higher and I am an extremely cheap person at heart. I am not a technology obsessed person at all. I don’t play video games, have a Wi-Fi thermostat, or update my iPhone with every new iteration. But I find when used within the intended boundary conditions a lot of this driver assistance technology is quite helpful. It’s proving to be reasonably reliable and effective and insurance companies – who keep the most accurate and detailed actuarial statistics on the planet – are rewarding drivers whose cars have this equipment. So it’s generally a win…with limitations. That is a beautifully articulate way to phrase what I was trying to say. I didn't see it until I'd written my epistle. Generally the lane keeping, lane centering, and lane departure prevention systems immediately disengage with actuation of the turn signal. It's possible the Peugeot system takes its own path...as the French auto industry has been known to do. Steve

My preferred term is “crash” not accident, since nearly always one or more very poor decisions lead up to them. I have driven the Autobahn and on open stretches hit close to 250 KPH for a short while. Before doing this, I took a course on driving in Germany and the teacher emphasized that if you choose to go fast, you are taking responsibility for the implications of your speed--including reduced time to react when slower traffic, which has an equal right to the road, is near. I can understand your surprise (and frustration) when that car tried to force the steering, but must point out that you chose to drive a vehicle which had features you had not taken time to learn! I fully agree that speed doesn’t at all equal aggression. Aggression is assuming that one’s right to the road or right-of-way supersedes others’ rights or that legal obligations do not apply to oneself, only to others.

And stained

That would be grand. Thanks. Stevasaurus and Squonk have sent me things. Maybe they can advise you about shipping.

Very nice. Do you deliver?

"Little confused ? " More like a lot! I was picturing the shaft with the woodruff keys in my mind when I typed but my left brain typed spline. What day is it anyway? What time is dinner?

One framed up.

I believe he told me it was an old four speed? Not my expertise. Axles are 1'' I have never rebuilt a transmission and this one seems fine sans the shifter. I want to go through it and maybe learn something??? Thanks folks

That looks like the dreaded six-side belt on the 37" two-blade deck. It was not one of WH's better ideas. The belt turns easily and once turned blows up pretty fast. You can replace it and adjust carefully and it might last awhile. Or you can swap three of the pulleys for flat idlers and upgrade to a V-belt. I recommend the latter.

For as inexpensive as they are, replace the Woodriff key when you change the set screw.

Saweeet... bonus HY!

Well stumbled onto this, checked it out further and realized what I had to do. I could have never found a basket case and all the right parts for even close to what I paid for it. So I feel good about it. I found it in Michigan over by Lake Michigan. It’s staying in Michigan!

all the gears work good with no problems so now I'm waiting for the first so I can get some paint all most there yay

Here's one I seen at a local show.

VERY!

If doing light grading only, you might consider a way to lock it at a 3 or 4º tilt to put a crown on the driveway.

It’s been a while since I’ve gone through and counted. That said, the family combined probably has close to that. Lots to do on them though. Not near as many as you’d think will run and drive right now

Excellent!! Even has the correct dash, choke, and throttle. Only 2 things I see missing - correct front wheel caps and the elusive 1" Showerhead Muffler....

A nice 701, and with the HY-2 hydraulic lift too? Very nice!

Sweet !

It must have still had sea legs, it’s in the brooder now and getting around pretty alright!

As I've said before, Wheel Horse and everyone else painted cooling fins, and these old Kohlers still run 50-60 years later. If it makes a difference, it's so small as to not be detectable in a real-world setting.

Got the C-145 out of the barn today and did some rototiling with it. The gave it a Well deserved bath after. IMG_1364.MOV

They are multiplying……and technically this was yesterday but I did move them this morning. They will be getting a grey weathered cedar frame next.

@Brother Grilka collective drag is the killer on w/h pto/ belt driven anything , with the deck hooked up , belt drive attatched , how easily / or resistant does it turn by hand on the drive belt ? chences are the related belt driven pulleys , have bearing lubrication issues , rarely lubricated / wrong grease , that entire set up should belt spin easily , every functional area , must be free and smooth , you might try that in lowest speed, but think the entire drag set up , will subject your engine / pto drive a lot of wear , verify what moves easily . probably very little , pete

I believe this is @peter lenas first post that did not involve lubricating something!! 😂👍🏻

5-speed? Tractor drive belt 108427 - (HA/4L x 88" or 1/2" x 88")

I know this one's kinda cheating a little bit but.....

So Mrs. P works at the town’s water heater manufacturer, Bradford White. The old Chevy and the Snowmowtractor won first place in the show today! There were some very cool vehicles there today, including two monster trucks, various ages of cars and trucks and motorcycles. We were busy for most the day talking projects, seeing old friends, and such. What a sweet day!

I used "Cove edge" (the 4"high x 40" long) kitchen appliance base rubber molding ($3, Home Depot), use the better stiffer quality style. The original factory part was 3/16" metal, about 32" long and bolted into the five bolt holes already there (part no longer available), it stuck out about 1.25". You need to allow enough clearance for the rear wheels and the slight 'wiggle' of the deck, I left it a little longer between the rear wheels (my tires are 12" wide). When I have to replace this, I'll use a 32" strip of cove edge cut to 3.0"wide plus a 16" piece of cove edge on top of that, centered, x full 4", with the curve down; five short carriage bolts with fender washers will hold it all on, as shown in photo. This reduced the grass blow-up to very very little, 2% at most, big improvement. This thin-cheap cove edge lasts about 2-years, would prefer a thicker rubber (like the belting at TSC). Good luck,