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Did a little tonight sand the hood down got a little welding to do on it

I got a call from a family friend before the big show. He blew a rod in his tiller tractor. A lack of oil on that dippy stick will do it every time! @stevebo came through with a replacement 12 hp engine and tonight the tractor came over. C145 with an Eaton? Was that a thing?

How did you end up reading this thread as the title of it clearly counts you out!!!! (crack'n myself up)

In my opinion, the traits that help one amass huge wealth rarely inspire altruism.

Er? Buy your own island, fly to space for three minutes, buy sports teams, not to mention run for president /prime minister. Plenty to do with endless cash. It's just a shame that so few have so much and so many have so little. Typical of the human race I'm afraid.

Not very user friendly. Not the case with Mrs. Ks. On hers all the driver assist features are selected and locked in and are the default. Of course they can be changed at any time on the touch screen. Her safe distance feature is only available when the cruise control is on. Of course, the brakes will be auto applied anytime a collision is sensed. One feature I can't lock in is the engine/transmission options. It has three modes...economy, normal, and sport. I like the economy mode because the acceleration and shifting is smoother, but the default goes to normal mode every time the engine is started and I have to push a button to change it to econ. I may see if the Ford tecky can change this. Probably not until it is out of warranty. The other one I don't like is the engine shutting down when the car is not moving for more than 4 seconds. This is a default and I must push an off button to disable it. I do feel the good driver assist safety features out weigh these two that I chose not to use. A note on the lane sensing feature. Mrs. K always tended to hug the right side of the road. When she first drove the car, she commented the wheels needed aligned and balanced. Yep, the vibrating steering wheel was trying to tell her she was on the right side white line.

Research to find a cure/prevention of cancer comes to mind.

Aint that the truth! I use to hear these comments from "old timers" about declining senses, mobility, motor skills and such. I always thought they were exaggerating. Nope, they weren't.

Thanks for all the info fellas! Luckily the trans shouldn’t need help, with just a broken connecting rod. Engine swap should be a good to go project.

Philanthropy -- but it seems most just have the desire for more.

Nice! Beautiful area, Yankee Springs… We used to camp seasonally at Sharp Park at Yankee Springs and Deep Lake Rd. Small world, eh? If you’re ever back home and wanna swing in, I have a small collection for viewing and I tend to talk about tractors on occasion Unfortunately I don’t have any of the things you were looking for for your mower deck or tiller. @Lil’ Pullstart and I getting ready for Middleville’s Heritage Days Parade last year and a couple other pics of some of our stuff:

Sorry to read about your Truck lost. hope it will found quick without much troubles. got a visit from few Friends the last 2 Months with their RV‘s while they be on the Way along. They all where directly before in Companies for small fixes or even scheduled addon‘s like Solarsystem adding. Mechanically they mostly did a good job, but Electric seems to be for them „the book with 7 seals“. It shocks me, this „Companies“ wasn‘t even able to fix simplest electric failures and some built them. Blown fuses be the simplest mistakes they be not found. Beginning with completely wrong connected LiFePo Batteries even with completely wrong wire diameters ( much to thin) over loose batteries with wires over the poles completely without any fuses. The best thing i found was a Solar system wich wasn‘t work after a additional solarcell was mounted. Firstly i thought they connected it wrong together but i was wondering why it blinks on charging but the Voltage tells me 0,16V with 15A of Charging. Connected without any Fuse to a multiple colorchanging wire. That measurement gives me the right direction. the Problem must be after the regulator. one view and i found the „Problem“ when i removed the multicolordiameter Wire. They connected the Solar regulators Output with the positive Output directly to Ground. That simple. They changed 5x the Solar Regulator and told him, his Solarpaneel seems to be defect... no other problem can be found..... i just wonder sometimes to myself who and how had them qualified to work on any electric systems....

Have used the Granberg for years but only the feature that controls the depth the round file is in the tooth. Most chain manufacturers specify 1/5 of the file above the tooth leaving 4/5 of the file diameter in the tooth. A 7/32" file is .219" diameter so 4/5 is .175" the distance the file should be down into the tooth. Each number on the adjustment nut is approximately .010". Kiss the top of the tooth with the bottom of the file and then lower the file 17.5 numbers. The result is a chain that cuts really well and lasts longer between sharpening. I don't see any other way to to get the ideal tooth angle using a round file. Have drawn the setup to a very large scale and the 1/5 file above the tooth is spot on.

Pretty cool stuff! 4.2L I6 from a Trailblazer makes more power than a 5.3L LS V8?

I believe this is @peter lenas first post that did not involve lubricating something!! 😂👍🏻

grandson , marines , MIRIMAR NAVAL AIR STATION , CALIF , 9 MONTHS TO GO ON , C130J , CREW CHIEF / LOADMASTER , my son asked him if it was worth all the crap ? IT WAS SO WORTH IT ! BE FLYING THE PACIFIC , OTHER GRANDSON , first welding job , boat yard , framing , related metal repairs , $ 30 an hour , also has submarine welding in the works , groton ct ,, grandaughter , just back from a european school trip , hopes to go pack to paris next fall, then off to college , support them when we can , always turn around a question with , what do you think ? get them involved , talk it over , figure it out , that back and forth , is the magic you want . happy grand parents , pete / terry

I put that belt on dozens of times and I still have to sit and study to get it right. to the

She floats!!! Thanks @Achto for the perfect solution!!! And thanks to @wallfish and @953 nut for connection suggestions/observations... cleaned up and treated with @peter lena's second favorite - dielectric grease... Needed a bit of trimming to fit on the plastic cover, but come to find out some one else has trimmed a bit before me... But there were no cheese curd crumbs or Capt'n spills in the area so @WHX?? and achto are off the hook...! All in all a good fix...

Don't let Kevin fool you, he has a museum's worth of a collection! Worth a look!

Marvin was an 84 with an Eaton.

This can be a very aggravating safety feature. One of my friends has a Honda SUV with full time "too close" deceleration/braking system. If you are in a slow moving line of cars and see an opening coming up in the faster lane and move over into the opening the brakes will be applied and the driver who is now behind you is likely to think you applied the brakes rather than the safety system. He is a very safe but somewhat aggressive driver and it is driving him crazy. The system can be turned off but you must do it each time you start the car. jump into that opening the brakes

Remove the set screws and inspect them, there should be a sharp edge contacting the axle/woodruff key. The set screw should be torqued to 35 foot-pounds and the jam nut torqued to 30 foot-pounds.

Looks like a mid year 1980 change from Sundstrand to Eaton 1100.

I do, but not the kind that you push!! I do not know of another one like it with tiller steer in existence?

Yep, got one and it is a tiller tractor. Had one of those 80's with the Sunstrand too. Bought it with a ventilated block.

this is what is published on Tractordata.com for c145 tranny ----------- " Eaton hydrostatic was offered throughout the production run. Additionally, a Sundstrand hydrostatic was used on some C-145 tractors in 1980, model code 01-14KS01."

C-145 with an Eaton 1100 was definitely a thing. One passed thru my place a few years back.

Mid 1980-1984 used Eaton

Another one that hasn’t seen the light of day in a while is my C-141 8 Speed with Sweepster Model 48 rotary broom. Fresh battery and some fresh gas and she fired right up! One day a few years ago I left it out on a windy day only to come back to the two side windows and the rear window all cracked, badly. I guess once one went it let in more air and the others couldn’t take it? I don’t know, but I do know that it was old and brittle so I removed what was left. Funny thing is that the windshield is still fine!

2 mill for that trashed car, 15 mill to fix it and sell for 40 mill The rich get richer

Dragged out the 867 after being in the back of the shed for almost 10 months.. fired right up

I was just thinking the same thing. I was never a fan of bells and whistles on my vehichles, but I am impressed with Mrs. Ks new SUVs driver assist features. Bells ring if an object is approaching when backing out in reverse and if you don't react, auto brakes are applied. Bells ring and warnings flash in the drivers mirror if you attempt to change lanes with a car in the blind spot. Steering wheel vibrates if you get close to the lane lines and it will make a steering correction if you don't make a correction. When in cruise control mode, a preset safe distance with the vehicle in front is auto maintained by slowing and or stopping Auto hi low beams headlight control. The auto assist can be set to meet the drivers needs. From complete off to warning only to complete brake and steering assist. Oh, and it has Immoblizers to prevent theft. All some pretty good features for old drivers with poor memory, hearing , and stiff necks that don't turn.

I don’t have one of these but I’ve tried a borrowed one and liked it. The brackets that firmly grip and steady the chain link being filed are the real secret to its success, in my opinion. All the other “on the saw” sharpeners I’ve seen rely on the bar slot which always has a bit of play.

That was the same recommendation by the YouTube video I saved for reference. Works excellent.

I use this type of Homelite filer that serves me well, I do need to watch the lines to keep the angle correct. I also dress the rakers ever time the saw is sharpened, keeping the depth of cut correct is a big factor in cutting efficiency. To file the rakers this is the type I use:

I kinda did that in reverse order. I tried the others first. I believe this one will serve us well.

Been using one of those for years now. Totally agree with ease of operation and repeatability of results. Get tempted now and then with latest greatest "new" gadget but have stuck with the Granberg.

This would be best in the classifieds / wanted section

5-speed? Tractor drive belt 108427 - (HA/4L x 88" or 1/2" x 88")

Pretty much on those decks, the easy way to do it - Start belt around center pulley and both sides pointing towards the idler side (left hand side from seat) , the front (from seat) length of belt going around the left hand spindle pulley, the rear flat face going to around idler, then thread belt to the RH spindle and start it in the front side of the groove, rotate all 3 spindles half turn and belt should pop right on in alignment and tensioned.

I use a program to “auto caption” my videos. It’s fun to go through each one and listen to myself talk and watch what the ‘puter thinks I said!

Been to the above today near Penrith, Cumbria. Some photo's for you.

I'm guessing dead battery and or maybe even a loose ground connection. The solenoid has nothing to do with the starter except supplying it with power to start. If the starter is bad or jammed it should still click unless there's an electrical issue. A low battery charge or resistance in that starter circuit can cause the bendix to stick in the ring gear and give sluggish start. Loose ground could stop it from charging, act as resistance simulating a dead battery, cause the solenoid not to click and cause that "sluggish" start. Not enough power getting there Use a jump box or jumper cables and try to start it. If that works then check charging circuit, battery and cable connections for the cause of why the battery is low . A bad solenoid could cause some of your starting issues. Worn starter too but again the solenoid should still click. Possible multiple things???.

Not less hair! The politically correct term is --- you now have "more face"

Yep, the starter bendix probable stuck when you did that last start attempt with a low battery

Maybe the numbers of the Onan would help narrow it down?

Don’t be so modest! Those machines are wonderful restorations indeed!

The new to me 414 …

Don't know what model you have but here is one of them. Have heard where the small gear on the input shaft fails but don't know why. Perhaps the condition you have was the cause. Garry

When you turn the key to crank the engine, rap the side of the solenoid with a wrench or something. Not hard enough to break it but a bit of a jolt in case the contact inside the solenoid just happens to be stuck. It might jolt loose and begin working again. Check your ground for the solenoid. If the ground is weak the coil may not get enough current to close the contacts. If it is grounded directly to the frame then check your frame ground. I have had a lot of issues with the frame ground on my D-160. You can always see if a nail sticks to the top of the solenoid when you turn the key as well, that would show the coil is energizing and creating a magnetic field. If it energizes but you get no click then the contacts are frozen to one side.