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I borrowed the trailer. I’m getting my big roof steel tomorrow. I figured I might as well borrow a loader tractor while I have a borrowed trailer to unload the steel from the borrowed trailer then return the borrowed tractor on the borrowed trailer then return the borrowed trailer. And that’s the way the cookie crumbles.

Mom and Pop shop beats big supplier’s price. Mom and Pop shop genuinely appreciates my order. Grandpa decides to add a little to the stack for his barn. Happy Happy Happy.

Put the 42" deck on the Raider as I up grader the mid hitch and added a front hitch when I got it. It did good but struggled some on my tough weeds. but I usually mow with the C-120/180 or the 520. The North Carolina dust bowl is back. Kevin (Kpinnc) show a picture of it some time back. Here is mine the Raider was clean when I started the backyard. I gave it an air bath before I put it away

Some old trucks that I have.

I’m no know it all but do have some info. Here is a fantastic reprint of an original manual. https://www.agcopubs.com/hesston/operator_manual/english/f-5523/h140_h160_h180_h200_mower_front_runner_gmt_tt_tw_ You got a steal for $100. I believe the power steering pump does run off the units oil from the axle. The foot valve and lines are original. The unit had mower decks, snow blower, blade, rotary broom. Also had an option for a sleeve hitch so it could pull a plow, disc and other rear attachments. Toro bought out Hesston and ran both names on some equipment. If you have a 23hp, you have a GMT230. I started a Facebook group if you are on there. Search FrontRunner / GMT group. Lot of stuff on there. One of the original designer’s son is on there as are a couple of people that worked there before toro bought it out. Also David Bowman on there has 12 of these and is VERY knowledgeable on these machines. Anything else I can help with, ask away.

YOU CAN’T PARK THERE!

One emoji isn't enough when responding to a story like that...

This was mine.

I bet you need only to reset the HDIGHT ADJUST QUADRANT. They get bent or work loose over the years. You'll probably have to remove the deck to do this. Follow what is in this pic... should solve the problem. If the QUADRANT is bent, you'll have to remove it and hammer back into shape.

All but impossible to tell what color they are mowing in August. The pic below was my 520-H last year. On the other hand, that Raider looks even better now Don! I'm just about to add a belly hitch on my Bronco for the same purpose. Might never use it, but all my tractors earn their keep. Even the pretty ones!

Little bit of mud on it.

You can borrow anything anytime you want from me Kev. Just two rules. 1 You break it you fix it unless I say you don't have to fix it 'cause I want it fixed right. 2 Put it back where you found it.

To be classified as safe, by OSHA, the air blow gun is only allowed to have a static pressure of 30 psi (2.1 bar).

Don't fall off the roof.

Mine is over kill for a garden tractor, but wasn't too expensive back in 1989 when I did it. The bearing worked loose in the wheel and destroyed my spindle.

Sounds like oil is foaming up - might help to know whether you have a sundstrand or an Eaton (If original, I'd suspect Sundstrand) but if the oil is a bit overfull and starts cavitating it can foam up (creating air bubbles) and like a shaken up bottle of pop, spew out the tube when dipstick is popped out. The difference between Full and Full to the top (as in overfull) is very small, so oil foaming (Air getting into the system somewhere) can build up quite a bit of pressure (In one case, enough to push the dipstick out of the fill tube!) If it had gear oil in it , I'd probably suggest changing oil and filter again to help flush that out of there, and refill with a high quality 10W30 - We also used Dextron 2 / Mercon ATF (Ford Spec back when you'd have ATF made for most other cars, and then a different ATF Spec made for Fords.) in some Sundstrands, - We had to be careful to not mix the 2 (10W30 with ATF) as they were incompatible (and ATF at the time was a bit cheaper) but then started to standardize and we'd refill after rebuilds with 10W30 only, phasing out the ATF machines. (We'd never just drain and then refill with 10W30 as mentioned, residual oils were incompatible) So, in short, I'd say change your oil yet again (and filter) and try to let it drain completely as possible, and when you go to fill it (If I recall it took about 5 quarts) do not fill to the full mark quite yet , and let oil settle a few minutes after hitting the bottom of the dipstick (up to the "Add" mark) , then jack up rear end and run tractor a minute, putting motion lever through its paces slowly until wheels drive and operate smoothly, then shut off, re-check and re-fill back to add mark, rinse and repeat until it STAYS at the add mark , then you can top it off JUST to the full mark on dipstick (but not over) Frankly I am surprised your hydro survived being fed Gear oil. and if your machine stops moving because of a lack of fluid, given it is a Sundstrand, most likely, be aware there is also another oil filter internal to the case that is only accessed and replaced by separating the hydro from the axle case. (It is a steel mesh filter with magnet on the end of it) - If that filter screen is getting plugged up, that'd cause your problem right there - hydro is trying to suck in oil that won't flow through the mesh screen.

If you want the tines shaft seal #7 it is WH 100318 and you need 4 2 per side SKF 12330 Input shaft is 100441 only 1 needed SKF 7410

If it is just a slight leak, might just think about topping off before you use it. those seals on the tines are hard to keep from leaking once they start. another options is John Deere corn head grease. there is not much more in those tiller cases than a chain drive and some bearings.

Do you have the deck in the full lift position when trying to release the height adjustment lever ? I find on most of mine that works much easier than trying to release the lever when the deck is in the down position whether it is hydro or manual lift. Just a thought.

Found this picture of my 2005 Chevy 2500HD I really like the looks of the "Cat Eye" Chevys. This one has a 6.0 LS gas burner that has been tuned. It does everything I need it to do.. And with the Rancho lift, and 20 inch Mickey Thompsons, the chicks dig it too. LOL

Reminds me of the day I visited my local female barber. It takes her about 43 seconds to trim my bald head and another five minutes to trim my eyebrows, nose, and ears. She was working on my left ear when the clippers made a strange noise and she screamed, there's something in there. The clippers had hit a wire that was sticking out both sides of my ear lobe. She refused to touch it, but there was a fishing buddy waiting his turn and he pulled it out for me. I had been running a wire wheel on a 4.5" angle grinder the day before. Keep those safety goggles in place.

@Mickwhitt , good story Sir but I think you broke Red Square

Thanks for your input. I did run a ground wire from the rectifier mounting bolt to a bolt on the frame, but not to the battery post. When I install the new rectifier I will run a ground wire to the battery.

I may have found the problem. I checked the resistance in the coil and it varied from one test to another. If I left the ohm meter connected the resistance degraded over time. That may have been the engine stopping problem but not the failure to crank problem. I decided to bite the bullet and order a new coil, points and condenser. While waiting for the new parts to arrive I started checking wiring grounds and continuity. Everything checked out until I got to the rectifier. I had replaced it with a used Ebay item some time ago. I find that the stator leads are just barely long enough to reach the rectifier so I made 2" pigtails to lengthen the leads so I could wire it from the seat side of the console. The photo below shows one of the pigtails I removed yesterday. The female connector was fried and the insulation melted. The other photo shows one AC spade connector on the rectifier, and it had corroded away, or melted and the rectifier also fried. What would fry these components? I read somewhere that you need to disconnect the rectifier if you jump start the tractor. I ordered a new one and await its arrival. I hope that solves my other problem.

That's a pretty cool machine. If I found one of those, it would be hard not to have it follow me home....

I know... that's why OSHA thinks they're a great idea... left hand right hand or whatever hand you identify with... Save the turtles...

NO, NO, NO!!! Following California’s decision, several states have since implemented a plastic straw ban. Oregon, New York, Washington DC, and Colorado are among the states leading the charge against single-use plastics.

I expected to see this guy.

I needed replace a new steering column bushing the other day. I found the correct I.D. but the O.D. and length was wrong. Got out my poor mans lathe. Porta band saw and Harbor Freight belt sander.

Correct. In the hands of pranking morons, that IS a weapon. I have one similar, used with care at 100 PSI - for years.

Yes, jack it up and run it at idle RPM through the full forward / reverse range. Hold each wheel from turning. The goal is to flush the gear oil from all the gears, screen filter, valves, etc.

Thank you for all of the help thus far. I have a theory that mine used to have a back portion that was a bagger, because mine has the extra hydraulic valve and it has a perch for the blower. But then someone put the back half off of a Toro on it because under the poorly painted red and The Hesston orange is Toro red. On a side note it got a bath.

Uncle Jim prolly wore out a hammer a year! Yearly boiler furnace maintenance varies by manufacturer. On commercial hot water units, we would pull the burner, vacuum out all the crud and loose scale. Wire brush the non loose scale off. Replace low water cutoff, check manifold pressure and do a combustion analyzer test. Eviction of spiders was extra!

My money is still on the WH - I have used Dad's 702 to pull my son's old 2WD E150 up my icy driveway, with no issue. Set the "Aluminum Room" free ......

It does seem like the oil is thinning when hot and a worn Sunstrand pump may slow or stop working. Also, pressure washing after every use is something I wouldn't do, it is quite possible to blast water inside the transmission as well as into areas that will have debris and cause rust. While it is best to drain oil immediately after shutdown, this time I would jack the front up several inches and drain after sitting overnight to see if some water comes out first. I don't know if you have the same dipstick as the 1100 series hydros but they use a small opening thru the loop to vent, that loop is often crushed or plugged with dirt.

Go to https://lookup3.toro.com/partdex/index.cfm?xCaller=Toro and use 30802 for a model number. Is that it?

I did get to speak with a woman who was very nice but couldn’t offer any help after I left a message on Normans phone. I have a number that I guess is his direct phone. His voice on the recording. I should probably give him another call.

Wow, don't you have grease over there?

We should change our surname to Regerts Long line of wild here!

Thinking you're 23. Realizing you're 53. Guessing tomorrow will bring on more pain.

Got some fresh paint on a set of wide and narrow rims!

Hey Dan! Let me know tomorrow if you need this thread moved to the bumps and bruises section

So injuries like this are a genetic family trait that you have inherited?

AWESOME

Well didn’t exactly do anything to any of my horses but I did rearrange their stable so all 11 fit in and the wife can have her garage back. The little things.