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Unfortunately for the entire lot of you I did something this morning that will affect us as a whole. Apparently @nylyon Karl experienced a Momentary Lapse Of Reason and allowed my invoice to be marked PAID instead of dropping it in the shredder. I have renewed my SUPPORTER status for another year. You will now be forced to endure another 365.25 days of: Useless but occasionally witty banter. Off topic tendencies. Generalized Large Bear of Maine demeanor and verbal garbage in text form. Occasionally at some point I may try to release a little information that someone could put to good use but don't get your hopes up.

So Mrs. P works at the town’s water heater manufacturer, Bradford White. The old Chevy and the Snowmowtractor won first place in the show today! There were some very cool vehicles there today, including two monster trucks, various ages of cars and trucks and motorcycles. We were busy for most the day talking projects, seeing old friends, and such. What a sweet day!

I'm sharing my 211-A, my intro to Wheel Horse a year ago. It had been passed around my workplace and I am its fourth owner there, but I have given it the most service it has received in years. Although it's a vertical shaft tractor it has some hutzpah, enough to move snow anyway. The price was right considering I traded a barely working tiller for it. Do not let the 211 designation fool you, it is closer to a 252 than a 211-5, and has an Eaton 700 hydro unit. I recently picked up a 520 for mowing and blowing, but I do not see reason to sell this one. It is so uncommon that I have only found one or two other people online discussing it through the years.

Only if you have a pair of those rare double clutching boots that Wheel Horse offered. Isn’t that what @Pullstart wears?

Yes they came with the spring and a small thrust bearing. You don't need any of that it will work just fine with out it. They did away with that in the later Wheel Horses. There was also a 3/8" screw in the end of the crank shaft, if it is still there take it out also.

I posted about flushing the tranny a couple of days ago. I finally got some seat time today. I sat on it and had to move the seat all the way back since I am 6' 3". I checked the left rear tire and it did not hit the fender so I drove it to try out the gears and flush it. I rode it for about two minutes and it flooded, died and would not restart. I had rebuilt the carb, cleaned the tank but decided to remove the carb which on my 1054 means removing the headlights to get the air filter off. After removing the carb I checked the float and valve and replaced them with new. The new valve tip on the carb was mis-shapen which to me was odd but it seems to be rubber tipped and the new one was all metal. After replacing the carb it fired up and ran fine for the flush. Also all gears worked good and the tranny is quiet. I have a seal kit on the way so the next thing is to paint the rear wheels, replace the axle seals and sand and buff the tractor.

😂 thank you for you continued support of the forum, and for your useless but witty banter! And I had 3 cups, good to start the day with good decisions

I see the Trophy went to Mrs. Pullstart... we got another BBT-like situation on our hands here...? You and @ebinmaine taken pictures and the Mrs's doin' all the work???

Water and electric do not mix well. Let it dry out maybe some compressed air. When it runs again take all connections apart clean them and apply some dielectric grease.

I pick this up a few weeks ago. A 1056. This was mistreated in its later years. The hood was so dented and bang up from miss use It could not be mounted normally. So this is the end result. The p/o thought by lifting up and bending the steering wheel was the right way to open the hood I guess. Hope you enjoy the picks!

Only if you are wearing thongs...and I am not talking about underwear.

Pictures after I rode it yesterday. I have a set of headlight lens and seals on the way. Will post updated picures as I complete it.

I personally try to not interact with you Eric, UNTIL I have a cup of Joe in me.

Thanks for all the input. I dried and check wiring and she started right up this morning. Great group!!!

yep. As Lee said - There'd be a short 3/8-24 NF Stub screw in end of crank, onto which was placed a thrust washer, flat thrust roller bearing, and another thrust washer, plus the spring. The stub screw intended to keep everything lined up and in place. The purpose was to push the PTO away when de-clutching and into the PTO Brake so as to stop the PTO more quickly. This was the transition between the PTO engagement lever designs after they added the PTO brake, then they did a tweak to the PTO engagement design so that disengaging would "pull" the pto stack pulley away from clutch plate and into the brake lightly, eliminating the need for the return spring, as I recall. Unit would work just fine without the spring & bearings, though they could tend to be a little slow on the stop time after disengaging PTO, but no one but the CPSC (and Wheel Horse's liability insurance lawyers, and Dealers that were in a "sue-happy" region where folks would file a lawsuit at the drop of a hat) worried about that... having the PTO Brake there was still better than the no-brake designs, but old-school farm boys knew enough to have patience to wait until pto driven stuff stopped moving before doing anything around the implements.

Obviously I double poked the caps lock but I decided to leave it because it really does need to be emphasized. To elaborate, These manual transmissions have square cut gears with no synchros and are not meant to be shifted while moving. Ever. According to the manual, best practice for shifting is the only practice. Choose your gear first then let the clutch out.

I missed quite a few cool machines by the time I was able to get around to snapping some footage!

ABSOLUTELY NEVER SHIFT A WHEEL HORSE MANUAL TRANSMISSION TRACTOR UNLESS IT IS FULLY AND COMPLETELY STOPPED.

Hey Everyone, I been MIA for a little bit as someone stole my Hyundai last week while I was at work. It has been found, and is at the repair shop waiting on a few parts to put it back together. Anyway, I've ben collecting a few parts (had to buy one) to put a stack on the 753. I still need a flippy cap, but this afternoon loose fitted everything together and here it is. Tell me what you think. I left the factory 45 degree fitting and short pipe nipple on it in case I ever want to go back with the original style muffler. The rest is Schedule 20 steel gas pipe fittings and a Schedule 20 gas pipe stack. Of course I still need to tighten everything up and paint it with some high temp paint. Do you guys have any suggestions on anything I could do better before the final assembly? I'm open to suggestions

We all seem to share the common ground on quality standards, that’s why we are on the Wheel Horse Forum! I have this CC Stamped frame mower here, one of my volunteer homes for Project Evergreen / Green Care for Troops. This mower runs great, and all things considered, mows very well. The wife of the Master Sergeant deployed overseas told me something was wrong with the mower, but she didn’t know what exactly. I told her I’d mow with it, get a feel for things that might need attention, and work on it at home for free, just cost of parts. One of the main issues was the very slow reverse. Another, was the deck wouldn’t lift very far in the front. I think I found the issue. Both sides of the “frame” are cracked. The right side, it’s cracked right through. The left side, is split up the side and up to the horizontal plane. The reverse is a push rod, which makes the crack wider, which explains the slow reverse. The low lift is explained because the belly of the frame is extending down to meet the deck. I have every confidence in welding the cracks and the welds holding. I have very little confidence in the frame staying put throughout the rest of the chassis. I thought of a fish plate on the cracks. I thought of a full 1/8” plate on both sides, stitch welded in place. All this work is pro-bono. I have a call in to the wife to see if she wants me to proceed. I may just end up bringing a Horse with a 36” RD to their house and let them think on the outcome of this mower. Oh boy, I didn’t think the repairs would be this demanding!

You mean like cold beers while taking a break from welding ?

I spoke with the Mrs. on the phone. She said they picked it up fairly cheap from her FIL and it’s not worth investing in. I’ll bring a loaner over for the rest of the summer, that I can use and let them decide what to do for next mowing season. I’ll be getting seat time on a too, so it’s a win!

Front End Friday

This discount code was just sent to me and is good until Sept 8 2023. 214692452193580832

I agree with you . I rarely apply much water to my workers. I blow the grass dust and dirt off with compressed air. If you use water and do not get all the grass / dirt out of some small spaces / hidden areas you have a wet mess that will cause rust. Some moisture is bound to get in to electrical connections, air doesn't bother them (except I have gotten too close with my non-OSHA blow gun and disconnected a couple over the years)

I may be in the wrong here, but occasionally if I know the air filter got wet, I get it running and dry out the insides asap. Sometimes compressed air is the best way to get the stuff dry to get it rolling again.

Did someone say coffee? I like coffee. I’m undecided though. Is my best cup of the day the last one or the next one?

Happy Birthday Sylvia! Be thankful you don't live near Waldo!

Thanks for all the Birthday wishes!!! Great day all around!

Yes, the "Industrial Sized MegaBox for Repeat Offenders"...... Honestly, there is always a "blood-letting" involved with most of our projects.....

I put a set of good quality heims joints on my C-120 in 1989 they are still tight. It was my main mower for 40 years, bought a 520 to help it out. put a set of heims joints on it. Here is the set of heims I put on the 1989 520. . .

She was busy photo bombing on her big high speed Simplecity...

Hello First off I want to thank everyone who has answered my questions lately! I am doing my first restoration am new to the forum but have posted several questions and got great responses! Special thanks to pullstart he has posted a reply to all my questions! Love the forum has helped my a lot With that being said I found these numbers on my front axle 2/8/8 also I attached a picture What do these mean? it almost seems like it might be a manufacturer date which would be nice as I am trying to figure out exactly what year charger I have. I believe someone put different decals on from what it originally was . I also have reason to believe the model number is not original Any input is always appreciated Thank you in advance

I used linseed on this tractor and like the patina. I also did this one with it. Note the tranny top cover has not been done yet. The before look.

So what you guys are saying is no more double clutching or speed shifting? So why did I just install that slap stick on the 1067? ...

I would love to if they would put ten ft of wire on them...

Watch the video that Kevin posted. The bigger eliminator did run the 150 Case out of power on his second pull. Fact if you listen to the engine, the eliminator will pull the engine down a few times and then let off during the second pull. Most impressive pull that I have watched involving a steam engine was with a 2 cylinder Frick. They actually had the front wheels of the engine about a foot off of the ground for about the last 30ft of the pull. Al, the engineer of that Frick said that he would never do that again. Wish I would have caught that on film.

I forgot the other swag that comes with the winnings! A JBL Bluetooth speaker, a Yeti tumbler and a Yeti cooler!

@Racer5x agree with @ri702bill, @Lee1977 @ebinmaine on the heim joints , never had one fail , often try one in any movement problem spot , for easier motion and reliability . worth a try , pete

@squonk 500 miles apart is too close most days.

Yes. ???

Yeah buddy it's on there in a few forms. Wiring and cleanliness are mentioned in different ways. Here's the link:

Got the motor almost all together tonight still have to put the carburetor and coil on tomorrow then see if the old 753 comes back to life with no more problems

Well.. gotta be honest here, remembering is one thing but having detailed drawings is what's really helpful these cases. Claas provide very detailed drawings and schematics of all the components and how they go together. Also, for the plumbing atleast, an assortment of different colored ty-wraps/zip ties really helps. @all thanks for your input! I'll see if I can find some more pictures.

Yes, thank you. I've thought about a support of some kind as well. The stack itself is a little heavy, I'll see what I can some up with. Also thank you for the good words on my truck. It runs every bit as good as it looks. It's powered by a 240 cubic inch straight 6, and has a three speed transmission still on the column.

Just one box @ri702bill?

This is the heat shaped keepsake we bought to hold a portion of Charlie's ashes. Its a lovely thing cast in solid brass with a screw lid on the rear. I've never had a memorial for a per before but this looked so good I wanted to show how special Charlie was to us.

8:55 or so it starts the pull. 6:17 Hi Ta-Mara! @Achto and @WHX??’s friend Joel’s wife Mara.. I can only remember her if I think of See Ya Tamara!