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The Snowmowtractor needs to look complete for Thursday’s car show. It’ll be riding in the back of Ole Smoky my ‘69 C10. This is one of the reasons I went to the feed mill for chicken food, to see how it held up to 6-700 lbs in the bed. Like a champ!

Doing chores with my dedicated plow machine… GT-1600 with a Mag10 swap m

A few years back the wife had to have a 560 SL, just couldn't live without it. First couple of years it got driven a few times a month, then it was once or twice a year to local car shows if that much. The last year we owned it I drove the 560 to the inspection station which is five miles from home, the odometer had eleven more miles on it than the previous year's inspection record; time to sell it.

When I bought my 50” mid mount blade it was really because I’m a Wheel Horse collector and I didn’t have a grader blade. I was quite impressed with how well it worked when I put it to work on my dirt road though. Also works remarkably well for fine tuning topsoil when putting in a lawn. I have said it before in other grader blade discussions that I wish it had a tilt feature. Yes you can put your foot on one side to help it dig but to me that’s a PITA . For many years I ran a motor grader for a living, many different models and manufacturers. Most of them pull type blades and one push. As far as finish grading with them I can’t really say if one has an advantage over the other? However one reason real graders use pull type is because of the advantage to offset the blade for ditching and sloping banks. Guys on YouTube get pretty crazy with what they can make graders do! Either way, any one of the blades are functional pieces of equipment and also make great display pieces!! Here’s Lucy at work with me a few years ago. RIP Mark Klingler’s C-125 grader. The White/Oliver grader that I donated to the Long Island Antique Power Association And a few other pictures!

Got one of the horrible cement wheel weights out now working on the other one had me a little helper too.

Agreed Mike this is mine I bought a few years ago!

“When does a midlife crisis start?” When you come home with one of these instead of a wiped out Blazer .. LOL! Bought this a few years ago, drove it for a couple years and sold it. I think that might have been my midlife crisis

Got her put back together and running again today!

🎶 Like a Rock 🎶

There are numerous types of chisels many dedicated and designed for a special function. Amongst them a relatively unknown one is the Paring chisel. As it name implies it is designed to pare which is to remove very small amounts of material in a very controlled manner. Another disappearing tool but are still available from only a couple of sources such as Sorby in England who still makes them with the utmost care and quality. That are not cheap and are available in 1/2”, 1”, and 1-1/2”. The 1” version is the most useful. It is essentially a precision instrument.What allows it to do that is the long thin blade which is somewhat flexible. It is mainly that flexibility coupled with an absolute razor sharp edge that allows such controlled material removal. It is always pushed and never struck. The long blade allows also for very controlled directional pushing. Long thin flexible blade Razor sharp edge . Back ground absolutely flat and polished to a mirror finish Cuts are first made oversized with saw Paring chisel is then used to take it down to finish line. In this case with beveled shoulders on end grain no other tool would be able to be used correctly or efficiently. Chisel leaves a glass smooth surface essential for a good glue bond. Blade is bent slightly in use by applying pressure with thumb while resting on index finger as chisel is pushed. Slight pressure with other hand at handle aids and controls flex. Sides of chisel are also used as a reference straight edge for surfaces being pared. Alcohol is used on end grain to soften it prior to paring with chisel. It will dry quickly with no effect on wood whatsoever thinner than paper translucent end grain shavings produced by paring chisel. The end result .A perfectly fitting clean precise surface unattainable with any other tool.

Hey, thanks. That reminds me. I should get back to that. If I can find it lol

Although I've had my bell rung quite a few times, my tinnitus sounds more like frying bacon

Doing a little sorting cleaning organizing this morning amongst other stuff. We used the Cinnamon Horse C160 to move the 20' utility trailer frame.

Got the herd out today.

Motor strong at low or high speed no noises or smoke, I tried the transmission out, seems good will pull the front wheel off the ground, no slipping. Blade looks complete.

We did talk at show. If having a post for the tractor I guess that makes sense. Problem is I'm old & dumb so I don't do well with technology. I'd have to figure out how to do that. Maybe if I could get my 20yr old son to help?? Between his job, side jobs, karate, gym, girlfriend, helping at my elderly parents house, etc he ain't got much time for dad! Lol Also things gotten really busy with work. I'm an international rep for the UAW. Negotiations started with the big 3 automakers. It's gonna be a blood bath but I'm always wanting to fight for the working man. My life/schedule becomes so unpredictable during negotiations.

Depending upon how Factory Correct Kate wants to go with this tractor there are a few different options. -Change the entire trans to an RJ trans and the correct clutch arm. -Change the brake band side trans plate with one from an RJ and use the RJ clutch arm -Cut and weld the brake band tab to the vertical RJ position and use a RJ clutch arm Use a Suburban belt guard and idler pulley and use it like it is. Modify a brake band by drilling 2 mount holes and change the clutch arm to RJ although the brake will not grab as tight. That will allow for the correct belt guard to just use of that trans. 2 holes and trim the end off. Maybe do something temporary until finding and changing to an RJ trans? Like changing the idler to a V groove pulley and using some little wire fingers to guide the belt so it releases the belt correctly and the gears don't grind. It's a 60 trans according to the casting date so the brake band tab is definitely going to be at a 45 like a 60 Suburban is otherwise there wouldn't be any need to modify the pedal to push the rod. The rod for the brake band points up on a 45 too and the clutch arm on it now is from 1960 . This can all be seen from the outside of the trans case and in the pics provided already. Those numbers are just a casting date from the foundry and won't be in any of the manuals.

Thank you. When working end grain of particularly hardwoods such as when trimming a miter with a block plane softening it prior helps greatly. Mineral spirits also work however alcohol evaporates quicker and penetrates deeper. It also has the benefit in an oily wood such as teak of neutralizing the oiliness so glue will adhere better. Someone very influential in my life always got a kick of watching people’s expressions as he would lick the end of a mitered casing prior to adjusting it with a block plane. Sometimes someone just to bust him would point out that there was still a tiny gap. He would just say “listen I just ran out of spit”. I miss those old guys . They were lifetimes of knowledge and experience.

I think saving the original decals was worth it.

I've read where many people prefer a manual lift and say they can control the down pressure better with it using a solid link. With a little practice I've learned to constantly tweak the hydro lift. Listening to the engine you can hear when your loading up from too much cut. My hand stays on the hydro lift lever constantly tweaking up and down before I spin out. I run chains and about 100 lb weigh per rear wheel when pushing dirt. I don't have loaded front tires, but they would help with steering. Soil moisture also helps. Too dry means rock hard, too soft loose traction. The right soil moisture for each different type soil can help it slice and roll like butter.

Thank you. It depends on how well it goes but it could be a couple of hours sometimes. It’s a tedious process since the process is all made with hand tools . Starts with cutting the actual tenon slightly oversized then fitting it tightly to mortise . Once in the mortise about two thirds of way the shoulders shape can now be scribed . Since they are different one being steeper than the other more material has to be taken from the flatter one otherwise that one will reach its destination before the steeper one. Once they are 99% of the way there a piece of carbon paper is used to determine the final paring. During all of this one of course has to pound it in and out many times also being careful not to crack anything. Most of the time spent is with the beveled shoulders. The beveled shoulders start with the fact that the natural edge of the slab was already there. Rather than ripping the whole slab straight and creating a flat straight edge one merely planes another bevel on the high side of slab creating the “V”. This way the whole slab is utilized. Although much more difficult and labor intense the end result is superior to square straight shoulders.

Took the C-145 out today for a little rototilling in the garden did a very good job.

Tintinnabulation. Noun 1. A ringing or tinkling sound. Latin origin, mid-19th century. “Tintinnabulation” is a fancy word for “the ringing of bells.” It comes directly from the Latin “tintinnabulum,” which means “tinkling bell. People might be slightly more familiar with a related medical term for a chronic ringing in the ears: “tinnitus.”

It looks all origonal and all there, I assume it's there, but I can't see the axle bracket. Plus you have some history. Probably a $500 bill for the package at my auction.

From what I'm seeing in the idler, the belt and the linkage somebody didn't understand what they needed to do. I would suggest doing what ever is needed to match things up to whatever side plate you have. I have a hunch it's a 5003. Either way it's pretty simple and the parts are out there.

And she is back together and running!! Got the new filter on, new fluid in the hydro. Tested her out ran her around a while before testing the hydro and it's strong. Will post a YouTube on that in a bit. It's pretty much done, going to pull the hubs back off change the axle seals, drill and tap for the extra set screws on the hubs

Thank you everyone. I notice that it must be a Model 7-1112 or newer as of the angleing handle. I did not see a tag on it or where one would have been, I did notice that it is missing the lift arm, which I see Wheel Horse Parts and More sells. I might try this one my 312-H in the mean time. I didn't really need it, but I look for the unusal things. A friend had it and priced it at $100, so I could not pass it up, even if it is bent. I will work on that here soon.

Can I say this??? After giving all this some thought...here is the deal. These never were Corvettes. You do not have numbers matching what left the factory on parts, engine, transmission, etc. The only original RJ-58 is going to come from a one owner, barn find...and maybe not even then. Putting one together that is factory correct is probably the best you can wish for. In other words, adding a correct seat is not original parts to that horse. A RJ-58 with the correct parts can be show quality...nothing wrong with that. Just something to think about...hope you understand what I am getting at.

@wallfish is absolutely correct in his post #35. Those are the options depending on what is there. Yes, that casting date would suggest the casting is for a suburban (1960/1961)...but what if the company used newer castings to replace cracked or broken RJ castings. The casting is the same. What I see in the 1st pictures Kate showed is the flat pulley (not original) that would be used for the 5003.. Correct me if I am wrong, but I think the grooved pulley is on the 5010's. That is why we need to see the brake band mount. Kate, I did not want to get into this debate about the transmissions. Right now, if it works, don't fix it...it is the least of the issues. The love comes with pounding out dents in the hood. Getting rid of rivets around the gas tank. Especially getting the shields and drive belt guard.

Working on a new Thermal / Video Gimbal for my Fawn Saving Drone Project. instead of just fly with thermal or Video cam, i like to combine both in a new Prototype built Gimbal. So i by me a new 3D Printer, that works with Resin. Cool new Gadget, perfect for prototyping and much better Quality instead FDM Printing, but much smaller Build Platform. actually i tried how much i can reduce the Parts weight, to keep my Airtime up to maximum. this 2 Prototypes vary in the Weight between 17 gramms, what is dang heavy difference. curious how much the endweight can be dropped down at full stability.

They sure do! My internal battle is this being a ZR2, it’s stock suspension is roughly a 2” lift over standard and all that would go away. I’m thinking utility buggy. Make it my RZR/Mule kind of like your golf cart build. Keep the dash and VIN and give it enough lights and safety stuff to drive it to the store if I want.

Appears to be the same „quality“ as my Ford Transit. as long as i worked on, one disaster follows the next. but hey, nobody give me a Timeline if or when it must be finished. I call it a long term Project and it becomes it. Actually i have 2 sm Sheet formed and welded in, but at each thing i solved, it openeds another issue. The Engine was nearly complete, but i be little exhausted, to i take my brake until i have enough elan to fix it finally. Is that Midlife Crisis? Maybe, but i don‘t care about. There are just some of my projects they need more attention in the row. i believe Midlife Crisis starts when you buy a Porsche or a Ferrari, wear a Flower Hawaii shirt and try to life and look like Magnum. all other is completely Normal - for whatever „Normal“ stay‘s for

Are we talking the George Foreman way or The hunchback of Notre Dame way? 🤔🤣

Yep that's the one. 1973 was known as the "no-name" year. 1968-72 the Herd had names like Charger, Raider, Electro. 1974 up. They were the "letter series". A. B. C. D. 1973 carries no such designation. Your new Horse is simply called a '73 8 8.

1-0370 1973 Lawn & Garden Tractor 8 Hp 8-Speed Kohler K181S-30461D 8 Wheel Horse 5086 I assume that is it but it does not say what type it is??

I have a 50” WH push style blade that I have cut and leveled a lot of dirt with using my C160 auto. I do wish it had some side to side tilt, Bu when needed I have compensated by running very low air pressure on one side and a little on the high side on the other side.

Well here she is. Can anyone tell me anything about it? I have not even had time today to sit down and do any research…

I don't have any experience with the mid mount grader blade. From your pictures I would unbolt that mounting bracket andi build what is needed to fit. But, I also have a large supply of metal so cost would be near zero. Sometimes its easier to fabricate than modify. Just my .02

There is no midlife crisis Kevin. There is just life during which your likes, hobbies, or passions cause you to acquire or do things related to them that many others will question or not understand. That will be so also with the ones closest to us particularly spouses. With spouses as you very well know we need to compromise and keep a comfortable balance. Don’t however ever feel self conscious about the others or apologize for doing what naturally comes to you and makes you happy. The not telling the wife we all do that. On the other hand I am also always surprised by another priceless hand bag or another pair of shoes. God bless her, makes her happy and we can afford it so it’s not a problem. The hiding is just human instinct. When that hopeless looking vehicle ( to all others) is finally done, along with all the satisfaction you had while working on it, you will look at it and have that irreplaceable and illusive feeling to most, of pride in your accomplishment. That feeling we get from making something out of nothing. It’s not the doing it because we need to have something else but because it feeds the insatiable need in us to create and accomplish. Blessed are the ones that have such feelings.

You can use that Blazer to "Hide" other stuff you have piled up around you. Or you now have another powered "chicken coop!"

There IS hope. I trailered a Blackhood from Mass to Maine. We needed to stop for quick supplies at a Cumbys in Winthrop. I pulled through the parking lot to a place where I could easily park. there was a really cool (home made?) Bobber motorcycle by the door when I went in that I was checking out. A kid, maybe 13yo was at the door looking too. He said "that's a really cool wheel horse, it's a C-175, right?" 😄 Then he told me he had a 312-8 and how great they were. Totally caught me off guard 🙃. My wife was laughing her butt off. Only you! She said

Some tonight done

That tractor has the “Carolina Squat” going on…

Well, someday some lucky WH soul is going to "come out and take a look", Then, the wifie will just say to them "Just get it all T F outta here! Is a $100 fair?" Then, hopefully there will be a post here on RS about the wonderful score for a $100 and everyone can pick apart my backyard fixes.

I got a few closer pictures for a few that asked. Really is nothing special. I used existing holes in cultivator frame and bolted the harrow to that so I didn’t hack up a good cultivator frame.

For a cover crop? Or just to maintain a path?

This one is going up for sale next weekend when I get back home. Tried to sell it with a noisy 36RD and mismatched wheels (color) but no interest. Wheels all match now and it has a quiet 42RD. First pic is how it looked a couple days ago.

Out for a morning stroll.