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Hello, all. I see an intro from someone that used to work at Howards in Coudersport. (Hi Karl!) Thought I'd put in my first post a similar fashion. I also found the dealer list and happy to see Canfield's mentioned. Right out of high school (Good ol' PAHS and the daily walk to Vo-Tech out back - now known as Seneca Highlands CTC) I went to work at Canfield's (Formerly Kemp's Tractor Sales) , quickly became the "A" Tech (1986-1991 and 1993-1995) so I am intimately familiar with Wheel Horse. BTW They are still in business, Pat (The original Canfield) died some time back of a massive heart attack, but his kids took over the business, and I believe it is Nikki that now runs everything, and doing very good at it. (I knew those kids since his oldest daughter was 4 and "helping" daddy in the shop picking up tools and moving them somewhere else!) After moving on to Heavy Equipment and Heavy Trucks (With a class A CDL for a while, and a stint building & maintaining gravel quarry equipment) and then a stint at Ford (Automotive) dealer, then a fleet tech for a trucking company, ended up moving to Miami for a change of pace and worked several years as a Programmer Analyst and Systems Admin for a web hosting company in downtown Miami. After the economy went down the toilet (housing bust) in '09 , moved back "Home" to Potter County and re-opened my own small engine shop, finally closed down/retired in 2019, and have been doing woodworking and wood turning for something to do. Inherited my parents house (Same house I was born and raised in) and recently decided to get back into Wheel Horse as a hobby, and score my first (Of what I suspect may be many) - a 1974 C-100 with 36" Rear deck in almost pristine (Albeit it needs some TLC after being parked in a barn for 30 years) condition. I happened across this forum while looking up copies of owner manuals (and hints on NOS and used parts sources). So, I'm available if anyone wants to pick my brain - I have not yet forgotten all the know-how I learned over the last 37 years - My specialty was K series rebuilds and transmissions (everything else was gravy work, but my precision and attention to detail resulted in some of those engines and transmissions I rebuilt still being running strong to this day... and a few years back a customer brought me his transmission in pieces because he couldn't get it back together. I assembled it in front of him in a matter of 45 minutes just from memory.. His jaw hit the floor because I made it look so easy.) Look forward to digging through the forums and reading about everyone's adventures with what I profess to be the GOAT of Lawn & Garden tractors. (At least before Toro started messing with them! - It was heartbreaking to see what they did to the classics when some engineer fresh outta college started "making it better")

Happiness is red in your handkerchief!

Hmm, the red and black washes out of my handkerchiefs, but all my white work socks have a Regal Red tint.

I'm happy to report the carb cleanout, new fuel tank petcock, , new fuel lines, and new fuel filter have resulted in an easy starting horse.

Oh, and Oxo cubes, yes they are a compressed beef stock cube. A staple in any english store cupboard. You can pop one in a cup, pour on boiling water and make a nice beefy drink. Use them to make gravy, put them in stews, all kinds of things. My brother used to eat them whole as a kid! But let's draw a veil over that kind of thing.

So I’m looking for recommendations for better/longer lasting wire brushes for my 8” stationary grinder Needless to say this one is wore out I believe it came from Lowes. I bought the one pictured below from Home Depot because I needed one today. I’ve used it before and know it won’t last a long time. I know they all will wear. But when they sling bits of wire bristle shortly after new, that doesn’t cut it. I know the twisted/knotted one will last longer but I like the un-twisted ones for nuts, bolts, small parts, etc. Better one will cost more that $10.47 from HD, but I’m willing to pay for ones that are safer. Yes, I always wear a face shield or at least safety glasses when using a white wheel.

My neighbor is giving me a good deal on his old 312-8, I'm here to look, listen and learn.

I've just been informed of the passing of Joseph P Padgett (ppadgett53). Pat joined the forum October 21, 2012 and while not very active, was an active supporter. Our deepest condolences to his family, and may he rest in peace. @padg53

I call a welder a man who knows how to weld things right. Or I call it a machine men use to weld. I call me a man that can make metal stick together Pretty, cheap or fast. I can't even do two

Google says 4 hours 19 minutes for the drive. There is camping facilities on the grounds if that helps, many use that option. I very much enjoy Potter County, my family owned a camp on Route 6 three miles from Galeton. I hunted, fished, hiked and snowmobiled all over the county. We no longer have the camp but I do some camping there in my travel trailer. At a friends house in Cherry Springs:

26x12-12’s on stock Xi wheels. 20 psi and they just clear the fenders!

You know what they say about big shoes…

Only way to get to the crud. I use a long thin screw driver to loosen the crud between each fin, then scrub with tooth brushes and bottle brushes. I recently cleaned an abused 1988 520H that had over a gallon of crud lodged around the transmission. Thankfully the Onan quit running due to wiring issues before the transmission melted.

To properly clean the transmission, remove seat, remove fender and the fuel tank. While the fuel tank may be optional, the crud under it will cause rust.

I modified my 42" rear discharge deck into a full-on mulching deck. It mows beautifully with nearly no visible grass clippings. I have a Craftsman self propelled mulching mower that never left clippings and I thought, why not use the same principle on my Wheel Horse. Since it was a rear discharge it already had the arched blade areas sectioned off in front. What I did was to fabricate arched panels to mimic the front. The original blades were 14&3/8”. The closest replacement mulching blades were Stens 325-302 which are 14&1/2”. Because of the slightly larger size, I trimmed 3/8” off both ends of the center blade and rebalamced it. Adding the set of mulching blades and modifications, and my mulching deck was born.

The engine is probably pulled to the rear when the PTO is engaged. RUBBER MOUNTS.....one of Wheel Horses bad ideas. Replace them with solid mounts.

Thanks to all who have sent out prayers for my well being following a stroke that occurred June 1. 2023 while we were visiting our granddaughter in Florida. The rehabilitation center had no guest internet so I have been unable to keep in touch with my Red Square brothers and sisters. Special thanks to @BOB ELLISON for filling you in on the situation. After six weeks of hospitalization and rehab I was able to make the twelve hour trip home. In the past I would have done the driving but my wife stepped up to the plate and with me as her navigator and GOD as our co-pilot we had a flawless trip from Mount Dora, Florida to our home in North Carolina. It will be a slow recovery but I will be getting better every day. We were blessed to have my wife be able to stay with our granddaughter for the majority of my rehab time. I will keep you updated on my progress and please continue to pray for a good outcome. GOD bless all of you, Dick Schmidt

The nylon bearings in the three rollers on my 42" RD are past their sell by date. Also the spindles are worn. One very badly. Today I replaced them with rollers and spindles salvaged of a scrap SD. The deck was bent. Now the rollers are different diameters. 2-1/2" on the RD and 2-3/4" on the SD. I very much doubt that it should make much difference. Unless someone knows otherwise. May have to make adjustments to the deck height of course. One future day I may make some new nylon bearings for the 2-1/2 rollers.

Getting closer to having my collections somewhat organized and ready for a couple interviews.

@Pullstart Yup you need big socks 🤣

You can search for WH # 100441, or look at SKF 7410

Go to a welding supply store

If you drill in an inch or so into the pin, you can then insert a largish punch in to the hole, position a piece of thick wall pipe over the other end of the pin, then get someone to hold a sledge hammer against the pipe, (this to protect the gearbox lugs), whilst you ‘Whack’ seven bells out of the punch with another big ‘tapping’ stick. The punch sitting in the hole in the pin stops the end of the pin from becoming ‘burred’, and swollen, (like ‘setting’ a rivet in a hole). Of course, all of this after soaking in your favourite penetrating ‘Stuff’, and perhaps a little heat. If you possess an air chisel, try that, the continuous impacts may serve better than a few heavier blows? (And less likely to hit your thumb).

@Dreamcatcher I use dielectric grease on the shifter shaft to enhance the slide on , razor blade to cut it off , like a large TYE WRAP on the shaft just above the boot to hold it in place , if you don,t secure it . it will move on itself , exposing shifter hole . debris , pete

I've had to do it that way once. I cut off the pin fairly close to the transmission housing. Center punch as close to the middle of the pin as you can. Start drilling with a smaller bit and work your way up in size until you're as close to the 3/4 diameter of the pin as you can get without touching the transmission housing. At that point you can just chisel the remains of the pin out of the way. Just in case you were wondering, it's about as much fun as it sounds. 😂

I'm assuming they are soft metal. But would hate to bugger the trans housing. I'll keep that in mind if I get the need, or boredom, to do it. Thanks for the advice!

Usual mowing duty. After changed the rollers and spindles on my 42" deck.

How’s things going Mr. Richard, now that you’ve been home a bit? I was just reading back on another thread and saw a comment from you in the past. It made me wonder how you’re doing and I decided to search for you. I never saw this post, so glad to hear from you!

1978 C-101 8-Speed model 81-10K801 Serial 13060 - Build date 1978 8083 March 24 Friday Kohler made the engine in 1997 so not original.

I built a super custom hauler out of a 9hp snowblower. It's has 2 types of detachable buckets, lights, power steering, power dump, all controls up by your hands, tractor battery for electric start, cruise control, etc. It can carry about 6 80lbs. Bags of cement. And it can dump almost 1000 lbs. I haven't tried to haul that much, but the dump bucket will dump that weight. I used the tank type of tracks off a broken snow blower in back and 15" wheels up front. I even Fabricated a sulky in back that you can stand on and it will pull you behind the machine. Like a man trailer. It came super sick!!!!

People in Sheffield would rather die than use anything other than Hendersons. For them Lee and perrin is just dishwater lol. But then the Sheffield sub set of humanity can argue about most things. I think the word relish is mis applied to this product, although I'm not getting into a fight with the dee dar Sheffield folk about it lol. A true relish seems to be a stewed pickle that we would call a chutney. This stuff should really be a sauce not a relish. As I say if you want to point that out to our friends in hallamshire feel free, I will sit back and watch.

I agree Eric. Adjusting the deck belt tension to position the engine is not the way it is supposed to work. I guess in addition to the PTO engagement rod force pulling to the rear and the deck drive belt pulling to the front, we should also add the transmission drive belt tension pulling to the rear as the third force that is positioning a rubber mounted engine.

That is a 42" side

854 air cleaner on a 701? My apologies I’ll have to take the engine back with it!

@WHX?? Hope the air cleaner has a better color of red. Your nail looks like red oak stain.

Painted a air cleaner... and polished my nails ...

I for one am glad Steve’s meet/greet is cancelled…I go almost every year and have NEVER won the raffle tractor…I’m sure it was “fixed” @stevebo … just messin with ya!

I have a Cheetah Bead seater. Didn't pay attention to the recommended pressure for the small front ties. Seated the bead but blew the tire and wheel halfway across the shop....

One of my favorite models as it has the opposed magnum 18 with electric lift . This is a true original survivor with low hours . After a year or two of chasing this one it’s finally made its way home . Fully went through it and it sure is a gem. IMG_6569.mov

Agreed 1000 percent!

A wise man once told me there's nothing wrong with using a grinder. And that's good. That's very good. Because pretty welds... I do not make.

Nice design and execution! If you got decent penetration into the tube and filler, that’ll hold nicely. Next time pull out your angle grinder and just smooth it out--that's what I do!

Update, she runs, have very minimal seepage from the fuel pump mating area! Just did my lawn for an hour with it. Great machine. So glad I picked it up. I did found out that one of the coil mounts was actually broken off of the block, too. but I lined it up and tightened down the one that was still good and she fired right up and runs awesome! I'll probably have to fix that fin one day tho.

I belive we are talking about buillon not bullion. One being concentrated beef stock the other being pure precious metal such as gold or sliver. Must be spell checker or tired eyes lol.

Thanks fellas! Charger and RJ are staying, they run great! I cut the grass with the Charger. The 953 is awesome but I have another project in mind so I am looking to get rid of the 953 and all of the extra stuff I don't use. The snow thrower is darn new I almost hate to part it from the tractor it was bough with but I just don't use it.

And towing a VW Thing. Vintage all around!

Those would go good with the turbo dxi in Battle Creek!

Back on the ground safely. No need to keep holding your breaths!