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Just had a thought JIm. I had same issues with my 701 after restoration. Adding star washers under the bolts that hold the bracket to the engine and to the bolts that hold the gen to the bracket solved the issue. Fact now when I do a resto, one bolt on each part is now installed with a star washer. Much easier ground insurance that adding a pile of extra ground wires.

Maybe I answered my own question... The hoop has a hole in it there with busted off roll pin in it. If ya'll concur, I'll go digging for a roll pin that long. Or a bolt. or something.

Zagray summer show 2023. Few photos of my machines and this super cool hit and miss powered wheel horse.

Yup . We used to have to put hot air systems in cars in the old days to keep carbs becoming a block of ice in the winter.

Christmas in July? Expecting a turn of events?

I have never ever ever not one time met someone that thinks they're a plausible long-term usage piece of hardware... Yet... They still get used. When I find scotch locks on anything we own they get ripped out and replaced with proper connections. Always.

I used to carry an Epi Pen after the big incident 30 years ago but little by little I relaxed on that. They also expire after a while. I am happy to inform however that today there is one in the house in an obvious place that everyone knows and has access to, one in each of the vehicles, and one in my wife's purse.

Picked up this nice solid cart today. No holes and has original tires on it. Actually was sitting up on end out under pine trees. Can’t believe how solid it is. Will look good behind the rj58

Shaking down the GT-1800 after installing the Kohler. Still have a few things to do before a light refresh.

He is probably referring to the fittings being normal pipe threads and they probably carry jic fittings. Take your hose to a hydraulic shop. They will be able to match your fittings. You can also call wheel horse parts and more and he can make what you need.

That’s an interesting point, and one I’ve seen mentioned elsewhere. The “typical guy” tendency is to get the heaviest truck possible (in the USA at least) to tow a trailer so that he “doesn’t even know it’s back there.” But the super stiff suspensions can give the trailer a rougher ride than is necessary especially when the trailer is mated to the truck with an overly stiff weight distribution hitch (not something you see in Europe). The result, so I’ve seen on some RV trailer forums, is a lot of undue stress in the trailer frame that manifests in broken components and disheveled contents. I know there are real engineers at a lot of the trailer companies, and in fact I used to pal around with an engineer who worked at one of the higher-end camper manufacturers in Elkhart, but I’m not convinced they put much effort into structural analysis or any kind of optimization. RV’s tend to be built As toolsheds-on-flatbeds with the most engineering emphasis really being merely CAD design to make sure parts fit together and to generate an accurate bill of materials so the cost can be quantified. From the outside looking in, it generally appears that very little actual “engineering” is done or, at least, is adopted by the accounting departments. There are exceptions of course. Oliver comes to mind for the soundness of their construction, but even they don’t look to have poured a ton into suspension and some other details below the surface. Even Airstream has lost a bit of their reputation for being at a higher level in recent years, but they do offer a fundamentally more balanced platform as a result of taking a unique approach to their construction. This built-to-a-price point strategy isn’t unique to the RV industry. And, in fact this relative cheapening probably isn’t really driven by any particular industry as consumers predictably migrate to the lowest price options when given a choice. Evidenced by Walmart, dollar general, harbor freight, MTD, bass tracker, and any of the ubiquitous conglomerate RV brands. The unfortunate thing is that even in the premium brands that cost more - for instance with my Lund boat - if you dig a little you find places to be disappointed. I recently had the floors and decking out of my boat to do some repair and maintenance and the rat’s nest of wiring and excessive amount of construction debris still trapped under there 20 years later would embarrass even the biggest brand loyalist or factory rep. That said, most do offer real value commensurate with their pricing. So, there’s that… Steve

I had read about this years back from a luthier that likes to use it for his violins because of its lightness and acoustic properties. I however never used it nor had a single piece of it in my hands. It is a process of drying wood in this case ash that essentially alters the cellular composition of wood. It makes it lighter , more stable, more rot resistant than pressure treated wood and drastically changes its color. Wood dried this way is actually warranted for 25 years when used in decks. It’s expensive being only slightly less expensive than composite materials of the same application. No chemicals are used in process so it’s perfectly safe to use as opposed to many exotic species used in decks which have highly toxic and allergenic dust. As I said I never had a single piece in my hand. That was up to the day of the Wheel horse Show where Kevin @Pullstart gave me a truck load of it. Compared to regular Ash it works much better. It planes and looks like Walnut. I like it so much that I am going to attempt to get one of my ash planks in stock dried that way for a yoke. The color is simply outstanding. On a last but important note. I am always thankful for the day I joined this place. Nothing but good things and experiences have come of it. So much learned, so many opportunities, so many friends made, so much received that I have done nothing to deserve . What an outstanding group of people.Thank you all. thermally modified ash on left and air dried ash on right both in their natural state with no stain or finish.

I was going to say earlier today that it sounds like a grounding issue to me. I have two 701 short two pulley starter generators for my 701 that have both been rebuilt. A spare as k knew they were now rare. But Jim I know my 701 still starts slowly and builds up the cranking even with a new battery, good wire connections and ground. But my big ground is a more of a copper end than brass and seems to corrode. I have to clean it every little bit. The washer issue Dan mentioned is something I might also need to look into.

It is just junk… I will come get it and pay you 10% more than current scrap 🤷

You forgot to wire the genny! Just breaking your balls! Did you check voltage drop in the start circuit? Plus stainless doesn't conduct through all the paint as well as plain steel.

I caught up on a month’s worth of this thread waiting to pick my girls up from Chicago O’Hare. They have been in Germany while Mrs. P and I were in Alaska. We pretty much couldn’t possibly have place more space between us! Earlier I pushed a Horse or two out of the barn to get my Harley Davidson out for a cruise. That felt great to put some wind in my face!

which flavor? No, that’s not my back seat occipher…

Yessir, that is the fault. Best is to bite the bullet and get the correct roll pin--hardened spring steel is your friend in that place. The busted (rusted) one can be pushed out of the hoop using a roll pin punch.

Second phase of the TB testing today. And a nice sunny day. Checking for reactors to the injections on Tuesday. No adverse reactions it looks like. Back home a mowed the Widows back 1/2 acre, as heavy rain forecast for tomorrow. Bit of a shame that, as it's Silloth (Nearest town to me) vintage rally.

I am not sure but if you get a doctor prescription insurance pays for it. The ones I got cost 120.00 for a package of two. I paid less than five dollars.

Pretty sure it's script...

Older WH hydraulics use SAE#5 ORB (O ring Boss) fittings. (Later they switched to the much more common SAE#6 ORB) The SAE#5 are near impossible to find now. Lowell has hoses with them. i doubt any local hardware or even hydro place would have them.

Bee stings can be serious to some. Old Walt ran the hardware store in town. Trimming his bushes got stung and died on the spot. Another friend is deadly allergic and always carries a epi pen on his person. Get one Cas and carry it as close as a pocket knife. You just never know. Epi pens do have a shelf life tho and need to be replaced.

A few years ago the wife got stung and had the same reaction. Straight the to the ER. Kind of just made it to boot. One thing the ER Dr. ask me was I going to be around and home with my wife that evening. I said yes, what is up. She explained after those med wear off some of the problems can come back and your wife should not be left alone for the next 12 hours. Other wise we should keep her here. i did not know that. She has those pens with her all the time now.

Glad you're ok Cas. My father was also very allergic to bee stings. Late in life he lived in a trailer home out in the country which equaled bees nests. I bought him a case of Brake cleaner for Christmas once. He asked what was it for and I said Bees!! Best bee killer there is and back then those cans would shoot a good 10 feet. He could crack the door and destroy a nest from the safety of the inside of the trailer. Following Christmas he asked for another case.

Hoses come in different grades. Same with fittings. I have gotten hoses on line that last maybe a year before they start seeping. Our Napa uses 3 wire hose and top grade fittings from Eaton (Weatherhead) Not cheap but you get what you pay for.

You could be on to some thing with the post that you found. Would be worth it to take a look at your switch. In my younger years working on a farm, my boss had an Allis Chalmers D17. After using it, I would park it in the shed, shut it off, get off the tractor, walk about 10 to 15 steps away from it and then.... BANG! Scared the crap out of me the first time it happened. Told the boss about it and he just laughed & said "Yup, it does that some times". After that I would just walk away after shutting it off, counting in my head in anticipation of it back firing.

Not by definition maybe… or maybe the definition needs another expansion?

Agreed. I'm lucky enough to have a great hydraulic repair shop near my work that's reasonably priced.... For what they do. Even then, Lowell's pricing on the correct hoses with no adapters is FAR better. Second vote to call Lowell.

Was it mine I'd consider 2 options. 1. Contact Then and Now Automotive in or near Weymouth MA. They may have a kit for the "six screw" type pump. 2. Get a more readily available and still correct old style metal pump. Rebuild that, and install.

Been super busy lately and not super motivated with this heat lol. Here’s the next quick project. 604 k161 swap. Pretty much a bolt on engine swap.

I will check it out. I am taking it to have the taper check and see if it is out of round in the morning. So i figured I would give her a bath!

Did a little tonight got the ing. coil, the points and adjusted them and the exhaust bracket on

You just don't hear stuff like that every day

Red brakleen…..problem solved.

Not 3 on the tree, but I have three with the dimmer on the floor and a manual transmission.

I need to get a set of those for the shelf. They don’t sell it down here. Not a drinker but would be cool for display and possible end of the world activities. I have an empty from The Dino I may fill with something.

Just thought I'd add my two-penneth..... There's no substitute for blasting in my experience. It is essential to properly clean the metal (rust pits etc) and it also gives an excellent finish for the paint to adhere to. Blasting is very tedious! Blasting is very dirty and produces a lot of dust and filth! Best to not have your blaster in your workshop next to the lathe or the tractor. i generally use glass beads as the media - avoid silica sand - there are serious health risks (silicosis) if you breath in the dust. Wise to wear a face mask even if using a blasting cabinet as they can leak fine dust and you don't want to breath that in regardless of what media you are using. I have a Harbour Freight type of cabinet (as shown in an earlier response in this thread) and it is about big enough to blast a rear wheel. You need room to wield the blast gun, so whilst the cabinet may technically be big enough to hold an item, it's no use if you can't pull the gun back far enough to be able to target the surface. Dust extraction and separation is essential (mine requires improvement). I have fitted better lights but be careful punching holes in the outer casing due to the inevitable escape of dust. Modern stuff is powder coated which is VERY tough and generally just laughs at the blaster, meaning a blast session can be very inefficient. The way forward with powder coat then is to burn it....attack it with a gas blow lamp and get it to the point where it is boiling and beginning to char and it will blast off much more easily. I take large items to the professionals. A local company have an oven set up to burn (and not over heat the metal) and then blast the remainder off. Professionals obviously get an excellent finish for no effort from me and it is not too expensive over here. I think I paid £125 for my 518H bonnet, fender and rear wheels. (I did the front wheels myself). I made a new 36" deck shell (not Wheelhorse sorry!) and that cost £90 to blast and powder coat......and I think it was worth it. I also have a blast pot for external blasting (purchased for cleaning brickwork in fact) but you really do need serious protective clothing and breathing apparatus. It is impossible to stay out of the rebound zone as the media sprays in all directions. If you have proper protective clothing ie heavy overalls with a built-in/sealed hood then be prepared for long sweaty hours...it is a very unpleasant environment. Large plastic sheets laid down will collect the mess. I purchased a cheap plastic sheet gazebo which was nominally successful at containing the mess, but I didn't have proper protective clothing....so this project did not last long! So, in summary: large items to the professionals, do small items yourself (pulleys, pedals, brackets etc), blasting is essential and I would add that powder coating is excellent too if you store your machine inside. I have just restored the axle mount dual pulley for the Quiet Collector on my 520LXI in about an hour....blasting took around 30mins, zinc loaded undercoat powder 15mins, top coat 15mins (done hot). Ok so it takes another 30mins to cool down, but I went and had dinner and it was cool enough to fit the bearings and reassemble in that time. The only real issue with powder coat is the availability of the correct colours..... I thoroughly recommend blasting, but you need to set it up properly..

The Napa # is 610-1051

a B80 is a no frills worker for sure. Weigh it down good, chain it up, and you’ll still run out of traction plowing before power!

Thank you everyone for the well wishes. It was a crazy day and a wild scene at the town's Urgent care. I had about eight ladies in a total panic around me as my blood pressure continuously dropped and then they called 911. My wife was in the waiting room and oblivious as to how serious things were getting inside until the police arrives there and knowing us (on a good way) said to her they hoped they were not there for her. She replied that it had to be for me since there was no one else there. They were kind to calm her down and accompany with a patrol car to the house so she could take her medication which was now overdue . After she realized how bad things were she was shaking so much she could barely function. They calmed her down and since she insisted on driving to the house they escorted her there and then to the hospital which is in the adjacent town. Very close call like 30 years ago.Today except for some itching in the affected areas I feel like nothing happened.They got me on some steroids , antibiotics, and allergy medication. These steroids make me feel young again. Of course now because of what happened she has me under house arrest so it looks like a lot of progress is going to happen in the shop. I am just glad that all these facilities are within a few minutes from me otherwise who knows what could have been.

My GT-14 had the hard to find o ring ends. I did find the correct thread o ring adapter with a male 1/4 flare end. Then made hoses with 1/4" female swivel ends. Worked great

to the forum. You are correct. The mowing deck height is controlled by the gage wheels on the deck. The knob next to the lift lever adjusts a down stop that is used for other implements - most commonly the front snow blade. The only dumb question around here is the one you don't ask. There are a bunch of good folks here on the forum. Between them all, I think they have broken and repaired just about everything on a Wheel Horse that can be broken and repaired. The best part is, somebody, or several somebodies, will join the discussion with good tips and advice. There should be an owner's manual for your tractor available for download in the documentation section of the forum. Enjoy your Horse!

Cas, Glad to hear you are recovering well. If there is a next time just call 911. Funny thing about the Epi Pens is that during the "Supply Chain fiasco" the expiration dates were extended to double the amount of time. Makes you wonder if the dates are just a gimmick to sell more product?

Those plastic bushings are readily available at any hardware store / auto parts store. They have a 45 degree slit in them to allow easy installation over the shaft / handle. Also be sure that the micro switch lever is not bent which can also mimic this same scenario. The switch can also be adjusted to perform better if the new plastic bushing does not correct this finicky start issue

Then and Now is where I got my rebuild kits for the 6 screw fuel pumps.

If you are talking about the hydraulic lift. I am thinking your hoses have o-ring boss fittings on the ends that screw in. #4 or #5. Not a common type. Those hoses can be purchase here https://wheelhorsepartsandmore.com/product-category/hydraulics/

Glad to hear your doing better. What’s the plan to eradicate your garden of the green hornets? Maybe hire a professional to exterminate

Yesrterday I took the bulldozer to the barn and along the way smoothed out a nice road to get the WH loader down there later... I made a couple dozen passes thru the side barn to clear out a foot of sandy poop muck out the door and into the side yard. I forgot to put the chains back on it, but it did a fine job as always. Once it dries out a little more, I'll take the WH loader down there and dig it all out down to the base. I find it funny these things will do work in places the neighbors 5k little garden tractors cant go.