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I salvaged one a few years ago. Was a great project, learned a lot working on it. I still think they are great looking garden tractors.

Low budget dust collector that works awesome. Been using mine for a few years.

No mention of one of the biggest things. You need a big honkin air compressor or you'll be sitting around waiting for the compressor to catch back up. I gave up on sand blasting. I remove paint with an electrolysis tank and vinegar in a tub. Takes longer but I'm not going anywhere. For a frame I would soak each half in a tank then hit it with my HF needle scaler. If you insist on blasting, contact these folks: https://www.tptools.com/?gad=1&gclid=CjwKCAjw-7OlBhB8EiwAnoOEk_VLE_SbNHR1kgw5ve5RWlVV76Y1IF6qTiqlamU2pag9HYR48PEwpRoCDbYQAvD_BwE

Me either

Yep, I had to stop spraying the extra satin black that was leftover from my recent paint project on my bald spot, it was starting to run down my forehead with all this rain.

My older sister and family came to visit this weekend. They live in rural IN and tractors and other power equipment aren't new to them at all, but my BIL comes from a green family so riding Uncle Andy's red tractors was a new experience. Plus the 520-H was my dad's before he passed so they really wanted to drive Grandpa's tractor. Nephews are 10 & 17. I had to short the seat switch in order for the 10 year old to be able to reach the clutch while mowing and not have the tractor shut off on him. They also love trains so we went to the Illinois Railway Museum and I took them to my work to show them one of the planes that I maintain. So it was a planes, trains, and tractors weekdend. IMG_3061.mp4 IMG_3060.mp4

Been a member for a long while but this is my first time posting. My Father has a 417-A and I believe C series (can't remember off the top of my head but it's from the early 80s) so needless to say they got me into wheel horses and I've wanted my own ever since... Fast forward 15 years later and my wife's late grandfather passed an old GT 1100 down to us. The poor thing sat in his front yard for atleast 8 years... Probably longer going off how old the zeroturn he got to replace it was 👎. Finally got around to messing with it and so far we have spark! Looks like he replaced the throttle cable with an aftermarket unit, the cable is too long and hangs up when trying to choke, my local toro dealer said it's no longer available but did give me the part #109132 I've found one website that offers it but says it's "on order" with no eta... Any suggestions? I'm also trying to find a carb kit, spraying some gogo juice in her got her going but there multiple places on the carb leaking... One of which is a bronze colored ball on the side!? Sorry for the long post and for those that stuck around thanks for reading! If you have any tips, tricks or suggestions that would be much appreciated!

Received the spindles and the steering arms. Now I can finish cutting the axle to length. Ordered some round stock for the spindle shafts to axle. I have 1 1/2 stock and need 1 5/8 for the spindles. I'll use the 1 1/2 for the hub spacers.

Fix the upper steering shaft and the lift rod and spring assembly and sanded some parts too

Not familiar with firearms or their maintenance but I am familiar with tools and their maintenance. When I was rather young in Europe there were not available all the lubricants and concussions that we take for granted today. There was no hardware store in which one could buy anything really. What I remember my grandfather and father using was lard and sometimes olive oil. Lard was always available in abundance since everyone kept and slaughtered hogs for consumption. Besides using it for cooking, under the workbench there was a little swiveling cup containing lard which was used to lubricate screws, the bottom of planes and was abundantly smeared on metal surfaces that would rust. When heated it will melt into a very workable thick liquid that was also used in things like wood handles in outside tools . It was also used to lubricate the oxen cart wood axles that ran on wood “bearings”. Of course the oxen’s horns also got a dose of it so they looked nice and shiny when going to the fair. I grew up with it and still use it today at the bench. It’s very effective and totally natural with no chemicals. And we did refer to it as fat.

Many many moons ago a relatively sharp person taught me that we have to focus on doing the maintenance before we try doing any diagnostics or tossing Parts at things. Because of the fact that we've been trying to burn alcohol in our gasoline for a decade or more there will be different types of damage than what we were used to in the past.

Im going to give a different option on some of these comments You don’t want to blast thin sheet metal with a large commercial/industrial blaster that operates at a minimum nozzle pressure of 100 psi up to 200 psi. Most of our home compressor can’t keep up anywhere near these pressures. I’ve blasted several WH suburban hoods and fenders that are thinner than your C Series with no problem. I agree with not Blasting an engine unless you are rebuilding it. But I recently blasted an old Wisconsin ..I made a gasketed metal cover for the carb and exhaust flange. I hand wire wheel around shafts and seals, then Tape the seal areas with Heavy duty duck tape. When I was finished I pulled the oil pan and old seals and flushed every thing out. Back working at the dams we would duct tape up large motors and gear boxes and other dam equipment that was outside in wet areas. Blast the hell out of it, then do a extra good maintenance/cleaning on it. I’m usually disassembling my manual transmission and I seem to have more than my share that had water in them. So I blast them inside and out. I leave the old bearings in to protect those areas Then I scrub them just like a engine cylinder after honeing. This is sitting in on my work bench right now I have glass bead blasted gears and shafts I suggest you go with a large Harbor Fright cabinet, then do the upgrades shown on the web. I built my own “extra large” cabinet and use it a lot. Do you have a large air compressor??? I have a 15cfm @90 and use a 3/16 ceramic nozzle in my blast gun instead of 1/4” nozzle. I still have to stop and wait for the compress to catch up. I want to someday upgrade to a 20+cfm @90 compressor. I had a Harbor Fright dust collector but the plastic fan blew up after a years use. Others on here have had good luck with them. I built a siphon dust collector per a utube using Home Depo plastic buckets. It works great and was inexpensive to build You mentioned electrolysis, I have a 55 gallon barrel set up and use it. I actually electrolysis some items then give them a surface prep using my blaster Vinegar works but I’m not a fan of it because my parts flash rust when I wash them off. Coming from the industrial world, we were taught to get an almost white metal look with a fine textured profile for the paint manufactures to guarantee there paints. I don’t always achieve that but I shoot for it If this is a one time restoration you might consider having your parts commercially blasted instead of tooling up for it. I’ve checked around here and got a price around $400.

Another thing about blasting. I'm getting a lot of arthritis in my hands. They cramp up holding the piece and pulling the trigger for hours. A foot pedal is a must. I bought a pair of wheels at the show. They were in pretty good shape but the inner side had some rust. I had it in the electrolysis tank for about a week. Pretty tough paint. I power washed it and I have it in the vinegar bath to soften the remaining paint. Garage smells like my Grandmother is making salad. Thanks for the bin @rmaynard!

I remove my 48" blade and install the tiller every spring and fall. Just pull the two pins. Can't be any easier.

I have a Harbor Freight blast cabinet that I've heavily modified with brighter lights, better air flow, easily removable viewing glass (it will get etched quickly), a foot pedal, and other things. I have a dust collection system that is a must. As large as it is, it's still too small for parts like hoods, frames and fender pans. An outside blaster will handle bigger things, but it will consume a lot of media, and you must wear protective clothing, mask, and face protection. Sandblasting is great, but there are a lot of limitations. Liquid paint removers have gotten ridiculously expensive, but they do work well.

Our resident Briggs guy @Docwheelhorse Tony might be able to help you out here. What's at the engine end of the throttle cable? If it's a Z bend it can be trimmed to length and the Z re-done. The carb kit may be available from an aftermarket parts vendor. Contact K and B Horse parts and/or A to Z Tractor in PA. Both are in our Vendors Section. I have a good multi brand small engine repair shop near me as well. Some places like that could be helpful.

And yes. that spark arrester muffler ..... now let's think a second. It is not surprising that you would need that type of muffler for the work application this tractor performs but what about the starter generator? I wonder what type cover it has. Back in the 1950's to the early 1990's manufactures would use a pneumatic type starter motor when working around petroleum based products. Also the company name painted on the hood is a 1960's style design along with the P596 which could easily be the company that owned the rig their unit number. Wild Bill in Richmond VA

What could be better than that, A sweet sounding Onan and a Kohler wound up a bit and a full head of hair. Ah, the old days.

Put the flywheel and the drive pulley on the motor and clean all the bolts up that go on the motor too going to have to make a new upper steering shaft the old one is way to bad to fix going to be fun trying to drill them holes out

I was wanting to keep the 10 h.p. Kohler on this and keep it pretty much original, I bought an 18 h.p. Duromax for my roller purchase. A 1965 875. It was too big so I put it in the C-101 and put the 10 h.p. on the 875. Alot of folks are running these Duromax. Gonna try a Predator 420 in my Raider 12. Has anyone had any issues with Duromax or Predator? Thanks for the responses. I'm disabled, but I'm doing what I can to "SAVE THE HORSES!!"

Biggest thing I found with hiring somebody to do it is that there are not many guys that do it so they are usually busy and how long will it take for you to get the parts back.

Now ya see..... That right there is one o the things that makes this site so excellent. Several of us giving several versions of our life experiences and how we all solve an issue. Excellent. Absolutely agreed.

I’ll have to change my name to Kickstart!

I suppose it'll be just 'get down & dirty' -- a good stiff brush, mineral spirits, oven cleaner, elbow grease --- what ever works best with hand cleaning.

wait a minute .......... they make newer ones ?

you can pull the fuel line at the carb and put the line in a jar, crank the engine and see how its pumping. I agree with eric, clean your fuel system, new lines, filter and a carb cleaning and it will be running like new.

I built mine after his success!

I installed this pump on one of my tractors. Been working good so far. Says Holley on it put I'm quite sure that it is made by Facet. https://www.amazon.com/Holley-Mighty-Mite-Electric-1-5-2-5/dp/B01MZYT5Z7/ref=asc_df_B01MZYT5Z7/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=316586467632&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=10670505792424088481&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9019425&hvtargid=pla-622559335914&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=68573217808&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=316586467632&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=10670505792424088481&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9019425&hvtargid=pla-622559335914

A very long time. Sounds like I have some work to do ?

Facet makes a good pump. Some things to consider first though. It's important to verify the actual issue. Disintegrating fuel line or dirty needle & seat and cause that issue. Do you use non-ethanol fuel? When was the last time every single component of the fuel system was removed, replaced or cleaned?

There are several replies given here that pretty well cover using a blaster.... The HF large cabinet is a great buy, but almost HAS to have several mods that are well covered on you tube - and are relatively inexpensive. A vacuum system is a MUST, you really can hardly use one with out out dust removal. In order for blasting to be .... practical? you HAVE to have LOTS of air - air supply needs to be judged by "CFM" (cubic feet per minute) which for best results starts at around 14-15 CFM, but ideally needs around 20, or more. This means the HP and PSI ratings of the small units just wont get it - you can get 2-3 mins of enough air before the compressor will have to catch up. My unit is run off an 80gal tank with compressor putting out 17-18 CFM and I can blast non stop. Next, is choice of what media will you use - there are many .... I use 'coal slag' in fine grit (larger grit stops up the gun) Its about - IS? - the cheapest media, I get it at TSC for about $14 @ 50lbs (price subject to change any moment!) I blast out side a lot with a vacuum type gun with the media in a 5 gal bucket, the large items wont fit in the cabinet. I set up a couple saw horses with a piece of plywood to do the hoods, rims, fenders, etc. I have a dedicated blast hood, air mask (a must!!) and gloves. Personally, I like blasting over all the other types of removal - and I've tried them all!!

@Beap52 another era another time , when people regularly maintained / kept in touch with their mechanicals . still have some of my fathers stuff, waxed / oil soaked canvas , pouches / bags , wraps . he only used hand driven tools , was terrified of electricaly driven tools , many of his friends had lost fingers , and slashed body areas , but he regularly touched up cutting edges and oil wiped down his wooden collection . time traveler , pete

Good opportunity to give all the pivot points the @peter lena treatment

Also keep in mind many sandblasters can't be used on thinner metals like hood, belt guard, fender pan etc. Also can NOT be used on or near an engine unless you are planning on immediately rebuilding it. I personally wouldn't use one on an automatic transmission either. I'd be cautious around a manual transmission as well. We've talked about getting a sandblaster for years here. Never done it. Trina uses a combination of chemical means of paint removal along with a wire brush and pressure washer. We'll likely get a sandblaster eventually for frame areas though.

Agreed - original. Just sayin' if it were offered in 1964, a creeper gear would have been most useful at work...............

Hey man I see nothing but sharp looking dudes here. Or some say aged well. I’m 35 years old and have a lot of white coming in last five years. But when they are getting 250,000 dollars for 70,000 homes in my area I don’t imagine it’s going to take long to either be all white or none at all.

I ain't seen THAT in a while....

Early this year I got a pallet 6 of engines for $15 at auction. Cleaned the carb and S/G, bought a new regulator and it runs. One other K181 I think will be saveable... MVI_0822.MOV

Big friggin hammer

thanks for all the comments - - very informative -- over past few yrs i have used a professional sand blaster that a local auto body shop refrerred me to -- YUP - pretty big $ as an expense and i am certain many of you want to avoid the $ -------- plus of course many of us prefer the satisfaction of being a "do it yourself guy". However, I find using a pro guy to be worth the $ cost -- which obviously varies by region of the country and if you can find a "blaster" pro locally within reasonable drive? I have had entire mower decks ( shell and lift assembly carriage) done after i disassemble - as well as the tractor tin - hoods, seat pan fenders, side panels, and wheel rims, etc, and some other parts of a tractor blasted as well. My sense is hiring a guy versus do it yourself is one of those .....it "depends"????????? What degree of "perfect" someone wants, and what is the project, and how long are you keeping the item, - is it for resale - or for a full show room restore, or just to be a worker tractor? Plus naturally, is this just one tractor project someone plans to blast, OR multiple tractors over handful of years doing equipment on a repeated regular basis??????? I acquired some really ugly heavily rusted mowers ( outside for years) blasted professionally and it was worth the $ cost to get to bare metal and then prime and paint myself. However, to the point earlier in the thread about surface rust forming after blasting, my blaster guy has put on a spray primer for me to prevent the quick new rust issue mentioned in the earlier thread comments. Overall, after reading the many insightful comments about buying equipment, laying out the cash, amortizing the purchase, cost of the media materials, the mess, plus the labor time -- i think i will stay with hiring my guy at his shop - his mess, his equipment, his bad arthritis wrists, his full body suit, his site cleanup ( he does it outdoors - big piece of property - on pallets). etc. As an fyi, he has modified truck bed, with large commercial compressor on it -- plus the full body protection looking like a scuba diver.... and a hose and nozzle that's impressive to see. I call him, I bring my project to match our schedules and then pay him. Works well for my purposes.

I’m just blown away that they can brand it Duromax, and GM/Duramax hasn’t gone after them…

I do it a little different -- I wipe the part down with mineral spirits and then give a wipe down with diluted Phosphoric acid which chemically "kills" rust. This method may not be for every body - its messy. and will itself start giving off flash rust which means it has to have the paint - primer or color - applied pretty quickly. I see @oliver2-44 has given another angle pertaining the topic while I was making another...see above I also will blast the motor/tranny..... I have the engine complete except carburetor/exhaust/fuel pump, I double masking tape over these openings, stick an old spark plug in, tape the crank, etc. and clean it up. I then blow the dust off with high pressure air gun and paint while still taped. Re damaging thin sheet metal, I run mine at about 80-100psi and have never seen any indication of blasting affecting the metal -- and I have done literally dozens of parts off these horses. I use coal slag mainly for cost, its way cheaper than the other options. Though I do keep glass on hand for some occasions....

There is no substitute for blasting parts completely clean, for example rust pits will hold a bit of material that just won't come out using any other method. After blasting, I wash the parts with hot water and soap, rinse with hot water and then immediately blow dry. Having completely clean parts that are primed well will give the best long term results.

@Retired Wrencher relatively easy to seperate those plows , another vital opportunity , is to service the STEERING QUADRANT , often neglected . packed with dirt / rust / debris , that spring operated slide pin , and related slide base , slould be clean and red grease lubed . personally , go over every functional / movement area . washer up sloppy connections , tighten up hand squeeze lever connection rod . for more direct response. also like to used oil , wipe down the blade face , to stop rust and enhance slide off. this is a personal choice , if you like your stuff , rusty and troublesome to use , don,t change a thing , I like it easy and smooth .pete

OK I got ya. Makes a guy wonder if they weren't made with a '67 long frame?

It seems that about anything can show up on this forum, and I'm a sucker for whatizzits. So okay, from my limited knowledge of middle european language, I think fatt or fett might be better translated as "grease" or "greaser" for this application. Early rifle cartridges using black powder or cordite propellants were quite corrosive, and the rifles needed to be cleaned and greased pretty faithfully to prevent rapid onset of rust. The long cord would pull the cleaning tool back and forth through the bore. You might be able to get a good guess of the rifle caliber by measuring the thing in the middle of the cord. Possibly 7mm or 8mm? And I'm guessing the other thing was to clean the chamber. And of course a little mirror to reflect light through the bore to inspect your work. This was a kit designed to pack up compact for field use, less cumbersome than the usual cleaning rod. Never seen one before.

Thanks for bringing my attention to this build. I'll be checking in and lurking around lol

The oil soak is super important…start soaking it now and re soak it for the next 2 or 3 days before you even start.

Starting to get tractors ready for the Steam Pageant. Added a shim to the 953 clutch pivot to get the sloppies out