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Rattled up some Regal Red for the blower.

These old Toro Golf coarse tractors were cool But somehow mine will end up looking something like this

@SylvanLakeWH if I were to go full native, there would be a blurred center section. At least he’s got his safety skivies on!

The only thought I have is the transmission getting enough oil while running backwards. If you look down the shift hole at how the oil is tossed around when on a work bench, you will see the oil raining on all the shafts and gears. I just don't know if the transmission would oil itself as well when running backward. Put one the bench and look down the shift hole and run the trans in both directions...if it looks like it is raining oil, you should be OK.

With all straight gears (no hypoids) in these trannys, I don't think they care which direction they are turning. Rotation direction of hypoid gears affects bearing loads.

And the inside this morning.

Trail cam at @Pullstart's in about 30 years... he's gone full native and doesn't even wear his steel toed flip flops anymore...

Here in Hill country those letters have a slightly different meaning: Only Safety Hazards Allowed But... on the other hand it appears they have a fairly decent, Overhead Safety Hazard Avoidance System in place.

Get a steel plate. Drill the necessary holes to mount it to the fender pan including any for seat switches ect. Find a nice seat you like. Now drill holes in the plate so the seat will bolt to it. It aint Rocket Surgery!

Oh, we do need pics of this creation.

Nothing amazing to report today. 1. Worked at my job 10 hours 2. Came home to find my son was already on the zero turn mowing. 3. Son sent me to the gas station to buy another 35 gallons of 90 octane non-eth (and a 12 pack of Coors lite) 4. Came home and cooked dinner for my Son, and had everything on the table for him when he finished mowing and putting op the zero turn. (He's a good Son, and yes he has a Wheel Horse) 5 Washed dishes. 6. Got on the desktop computer and finished up my work reports, and checked my schedule for tomorrow. 7 Logged on to Red Square. 8. Remembered I forgot to drink one of those Coors Lite that I bought at the store (see item 3 above) 9. Made this post about what I did today Have a good night everyone, see you tomorrow.

Got this old girl about finished up.. now we wait on some custom graphics.. and ponder a fitting name to call it haha.

Hey all, I haven't posted in quite awhile, life kind of happened and all my projects have been on hold since I last posted. It's been a crazy couple years but things are finally getting back to normal and it's time to get back to my Wheelhorses. I have 4, all in need of work, some more than others. My '75 B-100 is still chugging along, had it all tuned up and ready to plow snow last Winter but we didn't get enough to even bother plowing, I've pushed around a fair bit of dirt and rock with it though. Still haven't added the hydraulic lift to it yet or put the snowblower back on but I have since acquired 2 complete 42" snow blade setups The blade on it now is shot so it will come off and one of the others or a blower will take it's place. I'll modify the current mount to take a V-plow I want to put on another Horse. The Raider 9 is still sitting with an empty engine bay and the 12HP Kohler is still sitting on the cart where I unloaded it 2-1/2 or 3 years ago. My Dad's old David Bradley with the custom V-plow I want to mount on the Raider is still buried next to it although both are much closer to seeing daylight than they were even just a few weeks ago. I also have a complete Tecumseh HH-120 out of a Craftsman that would look just like it's original HH-100 but after having 3 of this style Tecumseh self destruct on me I have reservations about using it. Then again I may still drop the 12HP Kohler in the B-100 and move it's 10HP Kohler to the Raider. My 1970 Commando V-8 and 1972 CG-8 are both still in pieces awaiting replacements for their grenaded VH-80's. I may even get crazy and do some painting on them. I still intend to put the NOS Tecumseh OXVL-120 shortblock in the CG-8 but I decided the Briggs 14.5 HP I have sitting in the Commando will require a little more sheet metal modification than I care to undertake. Plus the carb linkage setup on it is too "busy" and is just plain ugly. It's no show piece and never will be but I can't stand looking at that awful contraption. I just snagged a complete running Kawasaki FC4290V 14HP out of a JD and preliminary measurements seem to indicate it will clear the stock hood. I hope to yank the Briggs out and set the Kawi in it's place in the next few days. I've been using an old JD RX73 to mow since my Commando coughed up a rod a few years ago and have come to really appreciate the 9HP Kawi FC290V in it. Although the Deere does a decent job for what it is it lacks some features of my Wheelhorse. The deck lift on the WH is SO much better than the Deere for one thing. I had hoped to snag one of the 9HP Kawis for the Commando as I know it will fit with no issue but stumbled across the 420 a couple days ago at a great price and it came with the wiring harness from the Deere so I figured if 9HP was good 14HP was clearly better. BTW, anyone ever put belts on a Deere rear engine rider like an RX73? I just did mine a couple days ago after I watched a YT video on doing it by "Taryl Fixes All" and he says right in the video it's a tough one and most people will get halfway through the video and decide to pay someone else to do it. Even with the tips and shortcuts he shows it is NOT fun!!! I got halfway through the job and started thinking it would be easier to yank the engine and stick in my WH and get it running LOL. I'll never complain about dropping the deck or changing belts on my Commando again, it's a piece of cake compared to those old rear engine Deeres. And THEN they are ALL in need of new tires..... ouch. So, that's where I'm at........ not much change since I was here last EXCEPT I have 2 new knees and can walk farther than 20 ft. at a time without pain, I can stand for longer than 60 seconds at a time without pain and I can get up and down with out fear of one or both of my knees going out from under me. Just can't kneel for more than a few seconds without LOTS of padding but that's a minor thing compared to what I've been living with the past few years. I can spend the day in the shop again without paying for it for the next week. Ah, the simple things!

I'm still torn between low and hot roddie fast (35-40 mph) or big powerful with lots of torque and slow. Maybe UTV type with some tube frame ????? 8 ft is a long one. You'll need to position the Ackerman angle for the steering arms correctly so it tracks and steers right so it helps with the steering radius. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ackermann_steering_geometry There's lots of crazy math out there for it but go by this simple diagram and it works great for our low speed non space shuttle tractors.

@Tractorhead Now this dogs been digging!! She keeps blowing the horn on the track loader though! She lays next to me and keeps hitting the button then looks around to see who’s doing it 🤣

Love it. A while back I was thinking of something similar but going hybrid. Engine can charge the battery and/or drive the trans. One way bearings can allow the motor to spin without the engine running. Engine running spins both the motor and trans to generate battery charging and drive. Didn't get much past the thought process.

I don’t want to get into the weeds of the project design (especially the electric/battery portion) but here is the premise…..I want to drive an 8-speed transmission off of an electric motor. The motor will be connected to the trans via pulley and belt. I will have full forward, reverse, and speed control of the motor via a rocker pedal setup like a hydro. Changing gears on the transmission will change the gear ratio, but the forward/reverse pedal will control direction and speed Originally, I was thinking about a hydro for this project, but then the electric motor has to spin full speed all the time like a gas motor and is a huge waste of energy. Then it crossed my mind about using a manual. Then the motor will only spin while moving. As long as I can sort out the belt tension for driving both directions and the transmission can handle it…..it should be pretty sweet. Still lots of details to sort out, but I’m pretty confident I can make it work. Once work begins, there will be pictures, but still brainstorming currently

Great stuff guys! This is the nicest 14year old I know! Probably more I just don't know em

Shouldn't be a problem. The thick gear oil gets to the top by riding the gears up. Ever see those oil gear thingys on the auto parts counter. Turn the handle to watch the oil ride up the gears. The thicker oil gets more to the top. Don't think the oil cares which way it's going. The other thing would be the brake if you're going to use that to stop. The band will be backwards to the rotation of the drum and it will try to push it open as opposed to pulling it closed. It would still work to some degree but not as good, that's for sure. You could reconfigure the band position to work better. An 8 speed with a 6" pulley will allow the belt to clear the axle and you can simply run it in it's intended direction with the engine behind it. Could also consider running the brake drum shaft as an input. Have at it but please let us know what's up when you get that far!

Not mine but my mates in Scotland. Went over there today as usual for Thursday. He has a C-125 for trailer duties and runs sweet when cold but when hot rather rough. This morning we removed the carb' to give it a clean out. But the float bowl was spotless and jets clear. What we did find was the absence of a gasket between carb' and engine. My diagnosis is the carb' is getting hot and effecting the fuel. I'll see if I have a spare gasket and if not I'll make one. I have various thickness's of gasket material and use a thickish one. See how it goes next week.

Would a photo help, John?

Been over to my mates in Scotland today as usual on a Thursday. Felled four ash trees. The PO of the property planted loads of trees, to close to each other and never thinned out. That has created problems when felling until we can make room for the trees to fall. Three today snagged on other trees. Widow makers are the term I believe. That was when the the big MF tractor and winch came into play. Strap round the trunk base and pull until they hit the ground. Then cut up and pile the brash in a heap to be cleared away a burnt at a later date. Some will be logged and some used as path edging. At a rough guess around 200 to go at least. Keep us quiet for a few years.

Yup, oiling was also a concern that had crossed my mind. I assume again that it will be fine, but eyeballing it through the shifter hole is good idea. As it happens, I just picked up a new shifter boot for my 314-8 at the big show. Might just have to pop the belt off and check it out while I'm messing with it. This project will not be put to "hard" work, it will just be for fun......but I like doing my homework before I finalize a plan

Agreed on both above posts by Ed.

How did I know Kevin would be dragged into this 🤣

If you can break the bead on the stem side, couldn't you get the tube out Joe? Maybe patch it for reuse.

Nothing about that picture is OSHA approved!

At low speeds it won't hurt much to have the wheelbase a touch too long for a given Ackerman angle. Our long wheelbase semi trucks are a prime example. At. Low. Speeds. When I'm turning very sharp into a parking spot or driveway the front of the trucks definitely scrubs some. Unavoidable. That scrubbing can be negated some on a tractor by making the front wheels tilt out at the top a few degrees. I found that on some farm tractors and built the spindles for Colossus that way. Using a tri-rib tire will also help a fair amount.

Clean the motor and started putting it back together and painted the gas tank today

I had new knees installed 2.5 years ago and can do everything normally except kneel. While I can kneel, it just feels stupid so I find other positions to do what is needed.

Well I guess I am ready to start cleaning parts!

Exactly. You probably have noticed that the gasket between the air filter housing and the carb is thin but between the carb and the block it’s thick. Heat conductivity.

Haha! Now that we all know they are ultra rare it’s going to be hard to score one! I’ll be extra nice to the one on my 2002 315-8 now

I've seen homemade tractors online that used Wheelhorse and other brands manual transmissions set sideways so as to have another set of gears to divide for field work. Maybe @Oldskool might remember?

Great outside the box ( ) thinking! I’m following with interest.

Mower, yes its cast iron I believe. It can be welded but I'm not sure how strong it would be for a control pedal. Maybe someone here has a spare laying around. Mick

Finally the twins showed up last evening. Probably a week old.

@MickwhittYou will appreciate this....Was teaching a sailing class years ago and had a very bright young man from England in the class. I was discussing "red right returning" navigation rules and stated they were worldwide. He disagreed and we bet a bottle of wine on the result. Turns out the UK is the opposite...imagine that. I lost the bottle of wine bet but this was right around the 4th of July so I thought I would get even. I told the class to have a Happy 4th and then turned to my English student and stated...oops I 'm sorry, I guess its not a holiday for you. He did not miss a beat and quickly replied...oh no it is a holiday for us also...we call it Thanksgiving! We jested all in fun!

@gwest_ca keeps records of serial numbers. Good find @mower! Now what’s all this talk about lobsters and no sharing is caring came up? 🤤

A trailer that exemplifies the taper-at-the-rear design is this Bowlus Road Chief pictured below. Convert one of these to a cargo trailer and you’re set. Of course you’ll need deeper than average pockets. Surge brakes really only show up on rental equipment and boat trailers in the US. There are enough disadvantages that taking away their legal status has been considered. Perhaps their most significant drawback is that with a light tow vehicle (in comparison to the towed trailer) and on slippery roads it’s easy to create a situation where the tow vehicle doesn’t have enough traction to sufficiently resist the trailer and permit the actuator to develop braking pressure. Throw in a curve while braking and the situation can get worse. Outside of U-Haul and the marina, surge brakes don’t enjoy widespread acceptance. I always wanted an enclosed cargo trailer but never got serious about getting one. We’ve upfitted a few of them at work with mounted equipment inside (generators, deployable tents, etc) and have found they were generally all about the same quality level with the exception of the Wells Cargo and Doolittle brands. They were both screwed together and sealed up a little better, but even the cheapest seemed perfectly adequate for normal use. I don’t know if either or both of these brands are nationwide or regional however. Steve

I'm going for 2 seater garden tractor that looks like a dump truck. The wheel base should be about 6'. I'm going for a 3x5 dump bed but I'm short legged at 5'7" so it may shorten up a little. I don't have a supply of parts tractors so the tires may need to be sourced new. Maybe dual ags and tri ribs. I was checking out the Ackerman angle and was intending to use the diagram you show as a starting point and go from there.

I will second this motion!

Correct it's a Bronco 14. The weight set was online, many years ago (2007 maybe) but I'm sorry can't remember where. I made a bracket so they could hang on the front hitch so they could move from tractor to tractor.

Repeatedly. It seems to be immune to that approach.

just changed a blend door motor/actuator in a 2011 chevy impala. luckily it was one of the ones behind the glove box. had to reprogram the system after replacing. what rocket scientist thought of this crap! give me a sliding lever with coat hanger style rod on the back of it to go from defroster to warm feet.

Pay attention to this short sentence, for a cylinder to move an unequal amount of oil needs to move out of one side while oil moves into the opposite side. Because one side has the rod taking up much of the space even a cylinder with bad seals won’t move much unless there is an additional problem and often that is the valves.

Yep…

Take pictures so you know how it goes back together