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I watched it last night. It’s very cool to see it all from the air. Great video.

After seeing all the tub carts at the WHS I decided to dig mine outa storage, clean up the inside/bottom and slap a bit of paint on it. My next tractor/machinery show is only 2 weeks away! The inside bottom was rusty but not rusted through, the rest of it was solid. Wire wheeled and sanded the rusty bottom. Then painted just the bottom, well that looked horrible so I sanded the entire inside and painted it all matte red. Not entirely happy with it so I shot the entire inside and the top rails with clear bedliner type spray. Not perfect but I didn’t want perfect (if you’ve seen the tractors that’ll be pulling it you understand ) It’s not thick like Line-X, but it is textured. The plan is to bring it to shows and use it like a trailer.

Found it!

Ain’t it great to have parts in stock! I have boxes and drawers and totes filled with all sorts of stuff from buying and selling over the years. For example, lug bolts, got a coffee can 3/4 full of em. So if I ever buy a rig and it’s missing its rear lug bolts I’m all set! Ya never know when you’ll need some

Yeah right! Our next adventure is gonna end up something like this now

Dad has a 310-8 he bought new in '88, along with the mower, a snow blade and a trailer. I've tried to steal it but he's 11 steps ahead of me so I'm buying my own hopefully very soon!

Thinkin the coffee can says somethin about many of us...

I took the plow off the 520 and installed the Ber Vac blower tht I dragged home from the show. I had to make an adapter to get the lift points to line up. The two lift assist springs were so strong, the blower was floating, so I took one off. Works good now. Now to take it back off and repaint.

Just put a hitch adapter on both ends, and move the crane as needed... Build a mount plate for the crane onto a receiver, and move as needed. Thank Don (Lee1977) for the idea! And mine was made 100% by a flux core welder BTW.

This is my solution.

Crank it up!

Your flux core will work fine with a little prep work. Grind a bevel on your joints about +1/8” deep and space the joints open about a dimes thickness. Weld a root pass which should get you full penetration on the 1/8” base of the bevel. Then stack 2 more passes to fill past the bevel.

Hopefully bringing a cart will help avoid situations like these ! Wallfish and I were at a show and I bought a pair of rear wheels/tires and he bought a pair of Kohler 8’s…and we were nowhere near our trucks! @wallfish Second pic is my son on our B-100 at the 2006 WHS utilizing the hood

@OldWorkHorse Steve and his other half Ariel stopped by tonight to do some tractuh stuff swapping. He brought me the rye in another thread, a frame with a 6 speed attached, and a huge Bolens plow. The rye is for Bear 🐻. The 6 speed is for BBT. They left with a pile of tools given to me by a family friend, a pile of Wheelhorse parts, a tractor, and a belly full of delicious BBT made tortellini soup. Sweet.

Some assembly required.

Do small VW’s have bolt on rear stub axles? If you used the spindle bore on the axle to hold a ‘Kingpin’, (fixed, not rotating), and made a ‘Clevis’ type stub axle carrier, the stub axle is then bolted to the face of the clevis. Bushes then fitted into ‘bosses’ welded top and bottom of the clevis, this moves the pivot points further apart which reduces the pressure on the bushes. Also allowing bigger front wheels to be fitted by positioning stub axles to suit, (on clevis face). I have done this, (Bush re-location) in the past on equipment that suffered from excessive premature wear due to bushings too close together

As stated above a flux core welder is perfectly fine. There is, in fact, nothing wrong with using a flux core in most situations given that the wire and welded metal are sized correctly. The wire MUST be able to do multi passes. Check the specs carefully. There are some neat ideas in this thread too:

The old 753 findly has all four wheels on the ground and some of the steering done too little closer

Yep that's one I made 3 or 4 years ago. That was a lot or work but I loved trying different things. I sold it at the big show to a young man.

It goes quick Kevin, I can’t believe I’ll be bringing my granddaughter there next year. She will be two years old at next year’s show. She couldn’t attend because her parents had to go to a wedding. My son in law said “I don’t care what else is going on next year, we are not missing the Big Show!” I already can’t wait to drive around with her on my lap!

This might take a while to complete, but it’s good to get an idea of where we are going with it. Jeremy told us that one of the rear Carlisle Tru Power tires was leaking down slowly. We broke it down and bead sealed both lips. It’s set at 15 psi and we’ll check back in a while on that. We got to thinking and planning, while putting stuff away. Swept front axle with gear reduction steering, 10” rear wheels and hubs up front, and these 23x11-10 Dunlops from a Kawasaki Mule. When assembling the hubs for the spindles, we should be able to determine an appropriate backspacing if you will, for the track width front to rear. I also wonder if the air cleaner housing can be sectioned narrower and stuffed under the hood. We will measure the air cleaner assembly, set a block atop the carb, and attempt to shut the hood. Even if it needs to be used to help mount a snorkel, so be it.

I have read this thread so many times. Before, and after Jeremy made such a sweet offer to Rylee. Now, it’s home here in Michigan for completion work. We need some supplies and some time, and we’ll be trying to complete it with Jeremy’s vision in mind. She’ll have a pretty sweet show cruiser when she’s done!

New member, former lurker in Dexter, New York. My Dad and I share this new found interest. He'll be along shortly I'd imagine. 😉

This has been something that I've wanted to do, and it's getting more urgent as I need to move a generator and some other stuff, so here it is... The way I see it is that I have two or more options. What I have is a pick-up crane from HF that I got for about $100. It's a 1/2 ton and will do everything I need it to but my concern is how it should be mounted. The image of that is large and I don't have the patience right now to resize it on this computer so it's this: https://go.harborfreight.com/sku/60732/ Option 1 for mounting is similar to what some others have done and I have a tow bracket that might work. Some issues are that it's 1/4" and I only have a flux core welder and no stick, and this only mounts to the gearbox and hitch without extending to an attaching point farther up the frame. That concerns me. It's not wide enough to extend forward outside of the drive pulley and brake drum to reach another attaching point so it could leverage the differential significantly when lifting. Option 2 would be to fashion something on a dozer blade frame (which I have and could sacrifice if necessary) which would put the crane on front. I might actually prefer that and something to utilize the front attaching bracket where the mule drive would be which would give me the length of the tractor for stability. Thoughts? Other ideas?

Exactly why I made one!

Thank you so much for the miscellaneous parts Van! They'll find their way on to something. This is the type of stuff I scored since slowing down on collecting. Anyone know what that shaft bearing thingy is for? Also hit up @Ed Kennell 's buckets for some curved pieces and rods. Thank you Ed !!!

I do the same, only mine is metal...

@ri702bill like your " HOW MUCH IS TOO MUCH ? thought , those very basic spindles , are regularly neglected for any lubrication , let alone exreme grease and removal of loose wheel spindle play . think it would be a great spot to experiment with a small car spindle conversion , maybe , ball joints taking the load / stress on a axel insert to original set up ? have to go look at posibilites . pete

I like this setup because it is multifunctional and easily removed. Spreads the load out over a longer length than using just the front Tach-a-matic mount. The limiting factor for max lifting weight looks to be the front spindles / bearings / tires. How much is too much - time will tell. Just doing a lift while stationary is easier on everything than lifting and moving.... Bill

@Pullstart. That will keep you Riylee busy for a while. That is a good haul.Enjoy the project.

Just another thought... I just finished this.

As long as i is in good Hands, all is fine John. I understans your hesitation, had the same decision with my beloved KTM Motocycle. As long as she is in good Hands, all is fine for me John. This are decicions, they don‘t be easy, but if they be must be taken, it‘s a relief. I must also sent my beloved KTM out. A well experienced Friend of mine asks if he could have it. This thing is a badass monster with its 98 hp at only 138 kilos and extremely marches forward and upwards... The funniest thing was driving in a corner, pulling the trigger at 80% and just exiting on the spinning rear wheel. A set of tyres, maybe half a day at the track. But that is not the point, Every thing has its timeline, If the thing (whatever it is) has been sitting around unused for more than a - edit i means a year or two, not a month - edit end it's time to hand it over to someone else who will appreciate it and who will then put a smile on their face again.

It's been 2 days... ain't you done with the rebuild yet?

And who could not enjoy this masterpiece by @BOB ELLISON! This rode on the bed in the camper on the way home!

I really think this is what I want to do. I might look at doing something with the spindles too but I'm needing to move stuff well under 500 or so lbs. and no long distances so that might not be necessary. The way work is going this week it might be a month or so before I can even consider this but I really appreciate all of the input. I think this will be a great attachment since stuff seems to get a lot heavier as I get older

Good to know. The wire I'm running now is E71T-GS so I'll have to address that.

I saw that the other day. Great work. I don't think it will serve the purpose for me right now but I may very well install a plate with reinforcement in my cart so I could bolt it in any time

Glad to welcome you aboard. I think that nearly all of us started as lurkers.

No worries old man. Our friend Steve will fix one of them up ...

Likely the new carb’s holes were metric threaded

@ranger thank you for the feed back , your personal experience qas what I was hoping for , ideas / trials is what its all about . has to be a horse user out there that has taken it to the next step . that would let those interested in a similar change / upgrade add to a possible front axel change / swap , idea . pete

No the carb got replaced and the bolts wouldn’t go in for the air filter assembly. So we just re tapped them.

I see you have the later style welded hitch - what I call "the Spanker style". It pivots on the hitch pin and puts a lot of upward force on a small patch of the Unidrive casting. There was a thread a while back regarding over loading it and actually breaking the casting. I add a wider plastic pad to the top of the hitch in that area to help spread the load and "level" the tongue of the hitch...

Now I no where to go if I need some lug bolts Mike!

If the wire specs say, “GS”, this denotes “Single Pass” weld. Over this side of the pond, GS seems to be the type that is most easily available? E71T-11 is a single or multi-pass wire easily available in the USA, I believe?

1/8” strips will bend easily to that large radius. On these strips are slightly over that at 11/64”and bent to a much more extreme radius without steaming.

Awesome stuff Joe! I look forward to the day I bring my kids’ kids! *ahem* not any time soon though!

There goes the clean floor in the shop.

Guess i'm going to have to find some sort of an excuse to get to your place for a visit sometime this summer to get a closer look at that tractor. Looks like an interesting project.

Had little time today got some pices painted