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Added a new horse to the herd, just did a full service. Now time to rebuild the deck 1999 314-8

My neighbor was cutting hay a few days ago, and was kind enough to cut my back pasture as well. He got more than 3 round bales from it, but of course couldn't fit in some of the corners with the bailer. Since I really hate to waste it, I decided to rake it up and give it to my critters. Needless to say, my ass is happy!

Flag Day. Fly the United States flag proudly today.

I've been working on this nights and weekends for a while now.

Here’s a favorite tractors and flags picture of mine….

My mom always checked our hands for clean when we came to the table...and sent us back to redo (“up to your elbows”) if she wasn’t satisfied! 😄

So, this rascal followed me home last week. I didn't take any pictures before I started ripping it apart. The salt mine let me stay home for a week, so the timing was perfect. I felt like it had much better compression than my old '78. Cleaned up nice: I didn't even bother pulling the jug, good compression and it looked nice and purdy inside, after removing the carbon. A lot of carbon. Icky carbon. But she cleans up purdy and all. I gave her a tiny puff of ether up her nostril and she fired right up for a moment. So, off to get gas and mixed in some 2-cycle juice. Got most of the covers on and fired her up. I'd painted the muffkin with some ceramic high temperature magic paint that smoke up the whole block, then cleared up and the fire truck went back to the station. The video link is the first few minutes of her new life. She's gong to do the trimming after my 'horse does the rest of the lawn. Tomorrow, Lord willing, I'll get the blade sharp and get that on, plasti-weld the beanie that has a crack, get the covers all back on, and maybe even cut some grass.

Nice rig! I have a similar machine with the Command 15 under the hood. Runs great and feels plenty powerful.

I've been having issues with the fuel pump on one of my tractors. Found one on a C101 parts tractor that I have. I have not seen a Kohler pump that looks like this one before. The top section with the check valves is totally different. Wondering if any one else has seen this style of pump? It was made in the USA. I was planning on trying to rebuild this pump but unfortunately the check valve for the outlet side is too corroded to save. Plus I have no idea as to how to remove the valves to clean them anyway.

or drinking around if you’re from WI

Some of it together today the old 753 slowly coming back to life

I was a slacker with the camera at this show, didn't get many pic's. This Cub Cadet with working front assist was pretty cool.

Exhaust is complete. Checklist as it currently stands: Hood, fuel tank Steering wheel Fuel hose Throttle / choke (?) cables Check trans fluid Draw bar?

I came up with an idea to make some mandrels for pressing the needle bearings. From McMaster Carr I ordered short lengths of hardened & ground linear shafting and some double split shaft collars. The linear shafting is ground to very precise diameters and it fits the ID of the needle bearings perfectly. This will press them flush to the outside of the case then I'll still have to use a socket or something to set them deep enough for the shaft seals.

John and Jay will have it running on a tractor by Friday at 10am 😂

As long as your 73 has the original 5085 transmission an 8-speed will be plug and play other than some dinking around to get the hi-low shifter to fit.

The later 314/ 315-8 models that became the final "classic" models all had 8-inch fronts. Only the 308/ 310/ and 312 models adhered to the rule for 6-inch fronts. Some 416-H models also had them.

Done. I can change it back if necessary.

Clyde, the C-195 has a muffler that is kaput. The inlet pipe has separated from the end of the can, leaving the can and exit pipe to rattle around. Direct replacement mufflers do not exist. If they do, I have not been able to find them. So, I stopped by the TSC store the other day and bought a Stanly IH-1 muffler for $33. This is intended for an IH Cub. The pipe size is right, but the can section is too long, as you can see in the following pictures: The general plan is to try to shorten the muffler to fit in the same space as the original. Here is what I have to start with. The new muffler and the pieces parts of the original muffler: Step 1. Adapt the original inlet elbow to the new muffler (grinding sounds, sparks): Dang. Sorry. Moved the camera. Well, you get the idea. Step 2. Tack the old elbow onto the new muffler (more grinding sounds, sparks, and wire feed welding sizzle), then a trial fit on Clyde: Obvious hood interference. No way I am going to chop up the hood. How much shorter does the muffler need to be? Not enough hands to run the camera, hold the muffler and the tape measure, but the muffler needs to be about 3 1/2" shorter. At this point, my wife walks into the shed and asks what'cha doing? So I explain the plan. She gives me a quizzical look, then says 'why don't you hang it outside of the hood? I think it would look funny (amusing is what she meant).' So I close the hood and place the muffler in the classic stack position. She says 'Yup. Like that.' I explain that I don't really want a stack. I get the 'are you crazy?' look, and she walks off. Well, I get to thinking that making a stack would be a whole bunch less work than sectioning 3 1/2" out of the muffler. So, I says to myself 'self, why not give a stack a try? I can always hacky chop to fit it under the hood later'. Tomorrow, I'm going to visit the local muffler shop or NAPA store and pick up a couple of clamps and a 1 1/2" elbow. Stay tuned.

Had an appointment with the dermatologist today for a skin cancer scan. The doctor was soft spoken and she was wearing a mask, so I did mot understand a lot of what she was saying. A lot of 'repeat that please' on my part. Just to make sure, I repeated what I thought she said in plain English to confirm what I thought she said. Worked out in the end - all good and come back again next year. Point here being, keep up on your own maintenance checks, and if you don't understand the doc, keep asking questions until you do.

Sat with water in it Joe... reminds me I should git out in the boneyard and bring some in... naww too dammed stupid...

And don't forget the all-time approved field fix - a new Zip-Tie... I use those on all my winter chains to keep the latch closed in the event of tire deflation....

I still burn them.

Sunday lunch. Which ever of us three boys had the dirtiest hands got to wash the dishes and second place got to dry.

Thanks. I'll look at it this weekend. Maybe sooner if I get a chance. Ended up having to pull snowblower off C105 & put blade in it to finish the job. Probably a better tractor for the job anyway but the 654 is more fun to operate.

With that fancy tractor, the ramps could be as solid as you want. They could be solid 2x10 or laminated with a bent plate to transition to the table top. I would glue some rubber to the metal transition plate so as not to scratch your pretty top. If you are afraid that the lift table would scoot while trying to load you could add cables to hold the ramps tight to the table. Or not,you will figure it out.

Everything to run it is done! I’m thinking a drawbar in case towing is asked of Mr. Yosemite!

Always.

I’ve got one last brand new @76c12091520h K&B Wheel Horse Parts fuel bowl. Fits perfectly!

Thanks for the input y’all!

Ha, that's the plan. Find a roller for it and get it driving around by Saturday. Hopefully on Friday. It helps the vendors out with selling parts because we buy all the parts needed, someone gets a running driving tractor for a fair price plus we get to wrench away on one. I can use the pulley and muffler for something else anyway even if that plan falls through and the motor isn't 100%. Still a fair price from Kyle just for those. Last years trans swap was a time consuming challenge for doing that in a field with limited tools. It wasn't a straight bolt on thing. The only saving grace was getting an 8 speed from Van @Wheel-N-It and James or we would of been $100 in the red. Thanks Kyle. Looking forward to seeing you down there

Screaming “save me, save me” ....

This will be the last one.....

I only bought it for the engine……

Like Mike posted, I have that style on my 16hp Kohlers. When I rebuilt mine, I drove those out with a small socket.

Peerless transmissions have thick stinky Bentonite grease in them. I took one apart once. You couldn't force me to take another one apart!

The uni-drive in an old barn find was locked up with a solid tar like substance. I filled it with kerosene and let it soak. Then kept applying torque to the axles till I got some movement. It finally loosened up and began working. I did 2-3 more flushes with the kero till it came out clean.

I dunno, but sources on "the street" indicate he was screwing around when there was work to be done. @SylvanLakeWH thanks for the blast from the past. I have a plastic handled 1970's version bouncing around here somewhere. @formariz zat a VA ice bit by the red tipped adaptor?

Bob, I was just reading through this and was thinking if I could find the aluminum one I had on my 701 before purchasing an original pully, I would bring it to you at the show. But now I see you should be picking up what you need tomorrow. Anyway, If that does not work out then PM me and I will do my best to find the one I have that will work in a pinch. Van

Very nice. I have one as a cart-toter and it's a great machine. With just 200 hours, yours has sat a lot! You're definitely on the right track with maintenance and Magnum starters sound awful...to be expected. One suggestion I would make would be to clean the fuel system. Pull the tank and flush it (really pretty easy). Replace the fuel line with good quality 1/4" (NAPA carries decent replacement by the foot, don't use clear line or other "best" stuff on the ), Use a good filter near the motor (beneficial as the line degrades from ethanol), and a check valve might solve any hard starts as an alternative to a fuel bulb if you want to go that route. Enjoy and welcome to the site!

It never fails to amaze me how nice people here are to each other!👍🏻

Check the AC voltage coming from the white wires. Should be about 40 something at full throttle. My 416 didn't charge when I got it. I replaced the regulator with a Chinese one and everything works fine now. However, since I've also installed a Chinese carburetor, everytime time I'm plowing snow around Christmas, I keep having the urge to sing, Fa ra ra ra, ra ra ra ra ra...

Prayers for health. Sorry for your loss. Your talents are amazing. I am glad they offer relief and joy...

Sorry to hear of your loss Everyone deals with grief in their own way. I too like to get and stay busy with things that occupy the mind in order to pass time. That key is awesome!

McMaster and Grainger don't have an exact match. However, Todd (Redman) has one for me. Picking up tomorrow. Thanks for all the help.

A 310-8 is a great machine. Sips gas, but plenty of power. Keep the engine oil and tranny checked, and she'll run for a long time. Use ethanol-free fuel too. My 310-8 was my first Wheel Horse, and 20+ years later she's still going (with a few upgrades).

Added some much needed led shop lights to the garage. Now i can see all the projects!!!