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A few more pictures. Thanks for coming along for the ride on this project. Hope I did not disappoint.

Did some one ask for picture??? Well , the time that we've been waiting for. At least I sure have been looking forward to this day. Stick a fork in this baby cause it is done....finally. First lets take a look back at ground zero. A few hrs. of labor and a couple of dollars later.

Mounted a HF crane in one of my trailers... looking forward to using it for wood, etc. I can't lift stuff like I used to... Even has an @peter lena fitting. Tacky red applied of course... Works like a charm...

Finally got my 414 back on four wheels after being on jackstands for quite awhile. Hung a 42RD on her and once the lawn dries out she can do some chores.

Bringing these four. I think I accidentally put crappy gas in the LSE. All of a sudden it only runs on choke, may have to flush the tank and line then take the carb off and clean it. First I’m going to dump the gas, clean the line and then try fresh gas and some Seafoam. I really don’t want to take the carb off because this tractor has never seen a wrench other than to change the oil.

How many grandkids will it lift?

She followed me home today....

First time today using the blade on my GT-14. That thing is a beast No weights or chains and it moved dirt and the tires didn't even spin much We dug a trench for a new water line and I pushed the dirt back into the hole with it. Love the hydraulic lift

Been making some progress. Went with a M18 starter that I didn't remember was on the shelf for the reverse. Floor boards will make it difficult to Flintstone it in reverse. The floor boards help to lower the look of it. Got the hood fab stuff mostly done but still need to build a front mount. Wiring all set. Engine runs nice and did take it for a test ride. It's getting pretty busy under the hood so probably gonna a pain to work on. Stuff is gonna need to be removed to work on other stuff. Still have lots of bracing to do and get the pedals figured out. 1 for brakes and 1 for the reverse belt. The handle bars will probably drop an inch or few

Another side shot for the week!

Check the bottom of the carb bowl with your finger. If there fuel on it, it's leaking. Many leak but not fast enough to drip as it continues to evaporate. Fuel can also siphon back down the fuel line too. Try installing a marine primer bulb. give a squeeze or 2 before starting and the carb bowl is full instead of waiting for the pump to fill it. I've had trouble with the chinese cheapo bulbs dry rotting quickly

I thought I had my addiction under control. I picked this 857 up at a garage sale for 300 he was asking 500. Came with a extra mower deck and a snow blade purrs like a kitten hope I didn't pay to much.

Oh, so it’s to get you on the tractor too? Nice!

Got one of the RJs fired up and cruising around. Running nice! It's a 59 with a B1290 Clinton and complete as I found all the goodie parts for it over time. Might end up for sale but IDK. It needs to be restored and I prefer the original patina tractors. Time to get the very early production 58 out and going. Still frantically working on that new Can-Am bike build too. It probably won't be 100% finished but will make the trip down to the show.

Since the refiners depend on ethanol to raise the octane of their crappy gasoline, you need to know how much you can remove before the octane is too low. My guess is that very little can be removed before the gasoline becomes unusable.

@Sparky if you can read this I found your glasses! They’re on the hood!

414 in the shop…

Sounds like fuel line is starting to degrade. That was my past issue and the Grit got stuck in the float needle seat and flooded the carb.

Easy catch.

Me too, man! So, I get the feeling there will be tears shed if I decided to part this 520-8 out, so I'd like to fix it up. But so far I've only done some half-a$$ed rattle can painting. If I'm going to do this one I'd like to do a decent job, but don't have the experience. I know this is the right place for advice on restorations, so I'm hoping to get some good advice (but I need to do it within budget, which right now is pretty small. Maybe I can sell the 416-H I have to fund it. So far all I've done is pulled the deck and sprayed some PB Blaster on the blade nuts. The spindles seem to be in good shape, so that's a big plus. It's missing the deck belt covers but I have a spare pair from another 48" SD that was too far gone to rescue. Mostly I need advice on proper rust removal, prep and painting of the tins. I have a cheap air gun from Harbor Freight and a mid-sized compressor, and a can of Regal Red I bought when Rural King was out of rattle cans but had that. Haven't tried it yet. I'd like to get a really nice gloss on this baby. Also, need to replace the starter relay, and the engine is doing something weird where the governor keeps revving and dropping over and over again, mostly at low throttle. Hoping it's just the carb. Tires are dry rotted but they all hold air except the right front. Maybe I'll start a restore thread on this. I may do some minor work, get it running well, and sit on it till I move and retire in a few years. BTW, it only has about 620 hours on it.

Amazing work Dan!!! You gonna bring it to plainfield? Cant wait to see it in person!!! And no worries I won't tell on ya if you pee in the tool box! Haha!!!

0 - Better not be any running around yet... Now Nieces nephews neighbor urchins etc... well i've had 8 in that trailer, so if i leave one swinging on the boom it'll hold about 10 or so... Now as to @ebinmaines question about adults... meh... they can walk.

Angle iron under the bed to the ends. I still need to add another cross angle iron beam so it's full length side to side. It lifts very nicely with test lift, no flex, but i want another beam side to side to make it bomb-proof. Ran out of "parts" so i need to get some... Also - I don't plan to extend the boom. For what i will use it for, should be adequate... Yes still dumps.

Looks really damn good. I am going to get started on my grandpas 953 next Hopefully by the end of the summer. It was missing the hydraulic pump and all related items. I have been gradually sourcing those pieces since last fall. This is a real good example for me to refer to on how things belong. I sourced the correct seat frame I just worry how I’ll ever get a decent back and seat cushion made excellent job.

I drink motor oil then it rust proofs the tools.

The Helicoil is a wire threaded insert. Another option is the E-Z Lok insert. To install, you drill and tap the hole to a bigger size and install the threaded insert. The insert comes as thin and standard wall and with Loktite red on it. I have used these and tend to prefer over a Helicoil.

We're thinking this'll be a good combination of several different ideas here. The Excavator that did the site work on several projects here is gonna stop by sometime fairly soon. Part of the reason I did the video is to show him and the town what's going on and still be able to get going moving aggregate back in place. @formariz VERY nice work there Caz. @Horse Newbie some great thoughts on yours too. I do like the @SylvanLakeWH silt fence idea. I'll run that by our Excavator when we see him. The road issues will be addressed by the Town Highway Dept. They've been helpful in the past. I believe it's time for them to dig out the roadside ditches. Maine often utilizes large roadside ditches for snow collection and melting. Ours has filled in over the years. We don't generally do culverts here because of cost. Putting one under my driveway has been avoided because it would be even more expensive than normal due to VERY long span. It would have to go more than 40 feet or have the driveway entrance reorganized which would be a different expense. This is definitely a valid point. We've talked about having a stone runoff on the side of the driveway for years. As far as the barn drain area goes, we may have to dig out by the boulder rock wall and start over. Silt fence, 6" rock (we call Rip Raff) then maybe some 2" stone layered under ¾" or 1" as a top surface. Both Trina and I are very resistant to gutters. Even a commercial grade 6" type would barely work with the amount of flow we experience during the more aggressive rains. Over the long term they'd either be a maintenance issue or possibly even a damage issue.

An extra jack shaft to lock the axles maybe? Not sure what you got for sprockets or chain hanging around. Probably $150-175 to buy new parts and a little more fab work. https://www.surpluscenter.com/Sprockets-Roller-Chain/Roller-Chain-Sprockets/Finished-Bore-Sprockets/?page_no=1&fq=ATR_PowerTransPitch:40&fq=ATR_Bore_Fractional:1\" https://www.surpluscenter.com/Power-Transmission/Shafting/Keyed-Shafting/?page_no=1&fq=ATR_PowerTransOutsideDiameter:1\" https://www.surpluscenter.com/Bearings/Cast-Iron-Pillow-Block-Bearings/?page_no=1&fq=ATR_Lock_Collar:Set\+Screws&fq=ATR_Bore_Fractional:1\" https://www.surpluscenter.com/Sprockets-Roller-Chain/ANSI-Roller-Chain-Links/Roller-Chain/?page_no=1&fq=ATR_PowerTransPitch:40

Until a year or 2 ago I had no trouble with epay carbs either. Then had trouble with one flooding no matter what I did to try and fix it. Ordered another from a different vendor and the same thing happened. Smashed'm with a hammer and then bought one from Isavetractors which worked perfect. Have since ordered a few more and never had an issue with them. Worked perfect every time. If you do get one, look it over closely as you can tell it's made better than those others chinese carbs.

Here is is guys the raider is mostly finished. Few things to tidy up here and there. Few things I don’t like that I will revisit. This rebuild was something guys I’m not going to lie. Learned a lot about this tractor. Completely went through and rebuilt the six speed was a journey on its own. Couldn’t have done it without you guys on this forum. The tractor has been in my family since the mid to late 70s and I don’t plan on it going anywhere anytime soon. Keep a look out next tractor on my list was also my grandpas. The 953. Per usual it needs a lot but it’s next and deserves it’s refresh. Thanks again guys it means more than you will ever know

Dan says stick a fork in me it's done. I'll not share any pics that's his job. But I will run over tomorrow to do some eyeballing & drooling & perhaps a little seat time! Thing looks freaking awesome you guys are gonna wet yer knickers. Orginal yet semi custom. Says he might have glamor shots tomorrow...or make you suffer and wait couple days... I can hear him sayin @953 nut no more restos on this model! Sure is a long row to hoe...

Ok so I had the ambition today and felt good so I decided to pull the RJ 58 off the shelf, clean her up and service it and the 520-8. Going down light this year. Have not been feeling great with my arthritis so that is why I am taking an electric start model as my rider👍

The B-80 kinda quit midway thru a lawn mowing last Sunday. Pulled the carb today thinking a full rebuild but instead found “black grit” or something like it in the bowl. Quite a bit to be exact! Other wise the carb was spotless. Cleaned all that out and sprayed down the whole thing and put her back to gather with a new fuel filter and mowed for over 30 minutes without a hiccup. Will be buying new fuel line for it this week since that black grit might be fuel line bits. Wish I snapped a pic of the stuff in the carb…dang it!

Tell you what Dan I ran her thru all the gears and couldn't find anything to fault although I didn't try the HY as nothing to test it against. Thing with a complete resto like this there is always one stupid thing you over looked. In my case four or six but Dan's was good to go on all counts. Sure ther might be some things on shake down cruise but hopefully minor.

Here is a video of the #5060 transmission. To change to an open trans (like a #5091), you need to change out the entire differential to an 8 pinion differential and also find the 2 piece 11/44 tooth mushroom gear. There is a Service Bulletin that shows what it takes. Quite honestly, the LSD is better for what you are doing. Usually, the guys that are involved in pulling want the 8 pinion differentials.

Rube Goldberg would be ridiculously proud of this mo-sheen.

It’s the part of the line between the filter and the carb that bites you!

Sunday weigh-in 228.6 Spent all day yesterday at a soccer tournament. Lots of snacks, then late lunch. Only 7467 steps Should be up a couple of pounds...

I don't believe the carb that was on it when I got it could be rebuilt. The body of it was damaged along with the throttle shaft. Yes I would gladly pay if I was 100% certain that it was going to work. I have never had a bad experience with carbs I have bought on ebay before. There is one on my 856 and it runs perfectly. Leaning on all your experiences with this issue as it's new to me. If it's time to order one from there I will.

@moe1965 think you did well , extra deck and plow blade set up ! , do a baseline service , lubricant drain / flush refill , total grease verifatition , take advantage of what works , and touch up any issues . might even suggest , a oil lubrication rub down , to feed and patina save that paint , would do that first , so the paint can be sucking in the oil to help itself . would do every painted sarface . just an opportunity , oil spray down any related cables to get the rust / crud out , movement check as you go .pete

I have been kind of waiting for this question. I sprayed the inside of the tool box with bed liner. I figured that I would more apt to use it if I did not have to be afraid of scratching it up.

The Chinese carbs are hit or miss at best. On Kohler engines I have had pretty good luck with them, some have the choke 180 degrees from the original. The best tip I can give for anyone is to dismantle the carb and clean it out real well. Every single carb I have used has a nice film of cosmoline and sometimes black/carbon debris in the bowl. After that is taken care of, the ones I've had were, and continue to be, decent running, with one exception. My experience with Briggs carbs for small engines (under 8hp) have been an absolute nightmare. Run away, fast. Last weekend I gave up on trying to resuscitate a Troy-Bilt tiller with a Briggs (which NEVER ran right) and ended up dropping a Predator engine on it. OEMs were made of unobtanium and the Chinese units I've used were all terrible and unreliable so the decision was made to just replace the entire engine

Agreed. Either do that or send me the ORIGINAL carb. I'll rebuild it and send it back to you. I've had 4 big block Kohler engines with 4 cheap carbs and all 4 were junk. The isavetractors carb John bought for the backhoe before I got it is working fine.

I know it’s Monday not Sunday but it’s a holiday so I get a pass? Took the C-161 8- Speed out for a spin today in this beautiful weather!