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I hate noise! I know some people love the roar of loud engines but that's not me! When my friend gave me his old WH I could see right away it was a substantial machine, I could also see and hear the mushroom muffler's days would soon be over. I soon found that the WH tube muffler price was way more than I wanted to spend - cheap trumps noise, well to a point anyway. I read some reviews on cheap mufflers and decided my WH would not be shabby-ized with junk, I'm a Taurus, solidity is a biggie for me. I found a couple of mufflers at Tractor Supply, one was an International for $36 ,now we're talking! Problem was when I looking through it I could see my hand on the other side - this is not for me! The next one up was a Ford for $40 with no clear passage, this is more like it. It was a little large but I'd figure it out and do some fancy welding - it will work. I welded up a couple of adaptors and mounted it straight up like my John Deere 3320 tractor and even put a rain flapper on it - looks great. Trouble was the flapper rattled, I'm not giving up loudness for rattles - it won't happen! Now I'm in the shop machining Teflon bearings to get rid of the rattle, great, nice and quiet, let's take her for a spin. This thing stinks, not only are the fumes eye level but it's like the exhaust is in my ear but how am I going to mount this thing? Undaunted I cut the muffler off and started moving it around to different positions. Truth is I always thought the upright muffler would hit low branches when I mowed anyway. Well here's the result, no low branches problem and the end of the muffler is not at eye and ear level. I think I like it! No fumes, quiet and out of the way of branches. I painted it with Rustoleum 2000F flat black paint - eleven bucks, I splurged! Ahhh quiet, now all I need is a little rain so the darn lawn would grow.

It's been several years since I went to the Mentone show. It's at the airport now and I was pleasantly surprised. It's much bigger now. They had a good showing of garden tractors of all makes. This is all I got for pictures. I'm sure it would be busier tomorrow but I had to make it today or not at all. One set rule per the sign. DON'T PARK ON THE RUNWAY I needed to go to Warsaw afterwards and that took me right through 'downtown' Mentone. Main street is blocked off for the egg festival And apparently that are having a town wide yard sale if that's your cup of tea.

That's where mine come from. More on order. Thanks for the post Greasy but electric would be NA for a 701 resto. Something just wouldn't be right about that... Make matters worst the sentimental bowl Dan INSTISTED I use does not shut off 100%.

Your down to almost the bottom, may as well go all the way

Scott asked me to post this, along with his contact information:

No that is mouth to snout! A snout is the protruding portion of an animal's face, consisting of its nose, mouth, and jaw. The wet furless surface around the nostril is the fuel pump! And in Uncle Jim's case the "wet furless suface" is warped!

You can’t get it down to the frame and transmission and not paint it. Simply. Not aloud.

You're already there Bud. Might as well finish right up while the opportunity is the best. I'm with the others above. I say paint the frame and trans.

Always top notch builds by you!

I say “go all the way”

Well, so much for keeping this original……. @Pullstart Engine is getting all new gaskets as well.

Yesterday was my last day of work at the company I have been working at for 38 years, 2 months, and 27 days. Throw in the 7 years I did in the Army, I have been receiving a paycheck for over 45 years. Hopefully I'll have more time to spend doing the things I like to do.

Here is a photo a few years back of Phil at the shop with the evening shift before he went to day shift. Thank you for helping us get in touch with Scott as well! jason

Buffed the paint on dads old 312-8 and greased all fittings, checked trans fluid. Its a 1992 and dad never washed it because he said it would rust😂

cables attached.

Put an extension on the C105 exhaust and quieted it down a lot... Should mention - no drilling. One existing factory hole in floor board. Lines up perfectly... very solid.

@WHX?? https://www.walmart.com/ip/CarBole-12V-Universal-Electric-Fuel-Pump-2-3-5PSI-Low-Pressure-Micro-42S-28-GPH/972444636 have 2 of these on , my horses now , after swapping out a bad pump with a new diaphram pump I had , that also had went south with little use . these car bole pumps are very quiet / solid , low pressure , good price . also added a single LED dash light on my first electric pump , to verify its working . hook up to run on ignition switch , monotors itself . also added a fuel check valve , line is always visibily full of fuel . probably swap over my last horse as well . dash light is single green bulb . anything I suggest has been in use and reliably works . gassy pete

Sometimes when you’re riding Uncle Jim’s tractors, you gotta give ‘em mouth to mouth…

Absolutely paint the heavy stock!

Who is going to be staying at our usual hotel and getting some dinner together?

Just got finished putting my 54 inch dozer blade on a GT-14. I previously took the electric clutch off and converted it to manual. @Wheel Horse 3D The dash plate doesn't quite fit It's just a worker and it's fine for now https://youtube.com/shorts/H7bLbJD7uzU?feature=share

Yep, same problem with this 80 yo pump in my chest. All diaphragm pumps are pretty simple......a couple check valves and a squeeze chamber.

My weeds is thigh high… got the two skid plates back on the Cub deck and couldn’t wait any longer to scare some gophers…

It’s metal. cleaned the carb and put it in the sonic cleaner for a bit. Looking pretty good. Hooked everything up and she’s running pretty good now. The carb needs some adjusting but she’s running steady. Sharpened the blades today. They were blunt as could be. Mowed the lawn with my two little girls and they had a blast riding with dad. I’m looking forward to getting her cleaned up. Just wish I knew exactly what model and year I have. Got to do some more research. Thank you everyone for the help!

Interesting. I never thought to add a metal fuel line. I have the tools and ability to do so and I may just make that happen. I only run rec fuel in my machines so I really don’t have many issues with fuel breaking down components. Thanks for the suggestions!

Hey fellas I’m still around fellas.! I’ve seen that cycle and looks fun but I’ll stick with my slow Action Trac Chair . I’m actually looking a a narrow trac chair that can fit through normal doorways and I could drive right into the van . I’ll be able to get into tighter spaces without worrying about getting stuck . Also my chair is built with off the shelf parts I can find at any motorcycle , snowmobile shop or marina besides the joystick and controller . All could be bought off evilbay or jungle site . It’s built like a tank and have pulled full size trucks around the yard and into the barn .I could even plow the driveway with the plow option for my current chair . https://actiontrackchair.com https://www.tracfab.com/faq https://trackmastermobility.com/series-1-model/

@Bow_Extreme looks like a perfect time to lay in a new steel or related metal fuel line , finish last foot each end, with clear vinyl gas line , spot for fuel filter , might even put in a " lazy loop " for vibration before carb , fuel check valve . think about it , you are removing related fuel line break down spots . ethenol breaks down , anything that is not up to date , filing fuel bowl with debris . personally add STA BIL to all my gas , no debris or issues . i use ethenol in everything , you are right there , how I see it , pete

Sad News! RIP Phil It was always a pleasure seeing and talking with you. We'll miss you

I have Scott's #. I'll send it.

Good morning everyone, my name is Jason and I was a co-worker of Phil before he retired. We are just finding out of his passing. If anyone speaks to scott or has a way to ask him to reach out to us please, please send me a private message so I can give a phone number. All of us that knew him truly appreciate it as we are all still in shock over it. Please let me know and thanks and take care! Jason W

If you can remove any springs, valves, etc from the housings, put the housings in a vise, (separately), with the diaphragm surface against a flat plate. Apply enough pressure to level that surface against the plate, then ‘Warm’ the housing gently with a heat gun or gas torch, and leave it to cool down. This usually removes most of the distortion, allowing you to finish off lapping surfaces flat on a sheet of wet or dry paper, (without having to remove too much material to level the surface), then do as @Achto suggests. One further thing regarding gaskets, etc, thicker gaskets, (especially rubber), can worsen leaks, due to allowing distortion to occur in between fasteners, (rubber does not compress, but distorts easily, and ‘extrudes’ out under the fastener positions), particularly if over tightened! Doug.

Sickness…. Love it!!

Fronts: Vredestein 16-6.50-8 5-Rib Rear: OTR Lawn Trac 24x12-12 Rims are all stock Thinking of loading rears but haven’t decided. all the engine parts are powder coated, extra heavy. There are more at powder coat, right now. I keep deciding to do more of them. I’m thinking they after removing the dash tower, tonight, I’ll be sending more out for coating.

Poached a 418-8 with electric lift out of Massachusetts today! Just about 12 hours round trip, including six ferry trips! But it was a beautiful day to take a boat ride. The trip across Long Island sound is an hour and twenty minutes, the others are only about 10 minutes each way. I’m going to start a separate thread on this tractor.

I have been kind of waiting for this question. I sprayed the inside of the tool box with bed liner. I figured that I would more apt to use it if I did not have to be afraid of scratching it up.

What hill were those applications used on? Think you were probably trying to use them to seal a gravity feed of fuel from leaking back down the line. They don't seal well enough for that. There's nothing spectacular or special about the check valves in a fuel pump. In fact, they don't really always seal all that tight to begin with. Ever see those little springs? BUT, since the pump is creating fuel pressure by the movement of the diaphragm, the valve seal on the inlet side gets pushed closed by the pressure going out and the forward valve opens. When the diaphragm sucks fuel in, it's the opposite and the inlet side opens flow and the forward one gets sucked closed. The pressure created by the diaphragm closes and seals the check valves better than if it was simply sitting there without any of that pressure. Hence the fuel leaks by them and down the fuel line with the engine off. They do leak a little (like every pump out there does) but the pump will still pump fuel. Some volume of fuel is lost through the leaks but it's still plenty of volume enough going through to run an engine with some to spare. Moving the check valves from internal to external will still utilize that same effect of the pressure it has on sealing the check valves. When the leaks get too big the fuel will just move back and forth in the fuel line much more and so less volume and pressure out.

I think it would serve dual purpose as a de-icer! nothing worse than a slippery sidewalk or that hard piece of ice the snow blade can't bust up...this would make that an easy chore! Nicely done @SylvanLakeWH

This guy spends its life on concrete, asphalt and snow... no fire risk.

I tried 2 of those inline check valves in 2 other applications. Didn't work worth a

All you need is a little "Nascar Ingenuity" and hide an electric. I know I know. Gotta have it Original so you hafta tinker with it all the time! I got stuff "hidden on my 1467 Special. One of them will loosen tooth fillings!

Thanks, everyone for your responses and comments. Day 2 of retirement. I got up later than I would normally, but still got up at 3:50 am. It might be a while before I can actually sleep in until the late hour of 5 am..........

These are the ones that we buy, they come with a 90 degree boot on the plug end. They sell 4cyl kit and a 6cyl kit. https://www.fleetfarm.com/detail/calco-6-cylinder-wire-set/0000000026269?Ntt=tractor parts TSC has a similar kit, they are a little more proud of theirs. https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/tisco-spark-plug-wire-set-sws260

Lookin’ great Matt!

I’m really liking everything so far. Please keep us updated with pictures as you go! Thx

@Bow_Extreme Let’s talk about those tires and what those pieces are painted with!

The 471527 spec number does show up in the 1988 tractor parts lists from Toro. TIPL Look at the engine page to see what models are included. Poor lists because they don't specify what model uses what.

Maybe check out if there is a small car‘s Mufflers there. - small car meants from chevy piccanta or similar- it can be rusted outside, just pick out the inlay. Grind this Muffler in half and remove the sheetmetal. Just pick out the internal sieve pipe and cut it in about 2x 7cm lenght. weld a steelplate between them both, that you get 2 chambers put it into the old hull and weld it back together. Bang you got a new silent muffler what works nicley. if you find it too loud, you can insert few Steel wool pads into the first chamber, outside the sievepipe - that silences much more. so i have made my Muffler - except the steel wool pads. i like it‘s dark Barking sound.

It's going to be a 1980-84 - Only years for the Black Hoods...

Wed. Night from 2017 Wed. 2018