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Yesterday was my last day of work at the company I have been working at for 38 years, 2 months, and 27 days. Throw in the 7 years I did in the Army, I have been receiving a paycheck for over 45 years. Hopefully I'll have more time to spend doing the things I like to do.

First, make a plan to do what you want. Nap. Then list the stuff others think you should be doing. Ignore. Or maybe snore. Cruise this forum on the for sale ads. Drool. Cruise m**k*tplace, but do not admit it here. Go down to a big box store and examine the lawn tractors with plastic transmissions. Laugh. Well, i can"t plan your whole life for you because its time for my after breakfast nap.... Oh, and keep being awesome here at Redsquare.

Did a some wet sanding on the 1045, and waxed it afterwards. Brought a little bit of shine out of it.

Congrats T ! Little over a year for me now and nothing like it! Every day is Saturday. Often thought about a part time retirement job on a hardware store just to keep me out of the tavern. Then they want me to work on that weekend of the tractor show and I come to my senses. Best advice for younguns is plan for it now and retire as early as possible.

@T-Mo been at it quite a while , you will find your own comfort spot . was regularly so busy it was like a job , wothout a boss or angry people . make sure your home set up is comfortable , and issue free , always time to do what you want , make sure wife gets whatever she wants . its gets interesting , letting go of the sled you have been dragging , enjoy it , pete

I have had many vocational opportunities present themselves over the years. Some I jumped at didn't meet expectations and none has been as satisfying as the vocation I chose to follow seventeen years ago; retirement. I recommend it highly and welcome you to the crew!

I resemble that remark...

Well, so much for keeping this original……. @Pullstart Engine is getting all new gaskets as well.

My blackberries are in full blossom. I have been watering as we are in a severe drought. The red raspberries are looking good and should be ripening next week. The few strawberries that developed were eaten by the rabbits and robins. Pears and apples are looking OK and have survived a couple late frosts.

Congratulations, it might take a little time to get used to, but you will find your groove. It's nice being able to do what you want, when you want to do it.

😎

It's the best job I've ever had

it looks like a C145 or C125 or C105 or C165 to me, depending on the engine. We need to figure out if this is fuel or ignition related. Try loosening the gas cap once. The vent may be plugged, starving the engine. Also, try disconnecting the condenser once and see if that changes anything. *edit* I was up in the middle of the night. I didn’t see the engine plate. It would be considered a C165. Lots of brute strength right there!

No worries Neubs ...I'll insult Kev anyday and Sylvia takes insults quite well too ... along with Squonky, RJG and EB ... well EB he's on an insult level of his own due to color blindness and not having a choice WORKING round hood. We prefer to call it ribbing tho. Don't worry about that either we'll make sure we cure you of that too...

Can't you rig up a WH aircraft out of some of those extra frames and engines? Think two suburbans on each wing and a couple 953s down the middle...

Hey all. Brand new here and need help. I recently bought a Wheel Horse. All decals and plates are pretty well gone. The only plate is on the engine. It seems to be in pretty good condition. The guy I bought it from said it’s from the 70’s. Any help figuring out the year and model would be appreciated! No. 2. I got her home and put her to work the next day. I was mowing my field and after about 45 min to an hour, she died. It was late so I came back the next day and she started up after fidgeting with the choke and throttle. After a few minutes of mowing she died again. I got it to start after fidgeting with the choke and throttle but died again after about 10 seconds. She always starts up after dying but just wont keep running longer than 30 seconds max. Again, any help is appreciated!

Fronts: Vredestein 16-6.50-8 5-Rib Rear: OTR Lawn Trac 24x12-12 Rims are all stock Thinking of loading rears but haven’t decided. all the engine parts are powder coated, extra heavy. There are more at powder coat, right now. I keep deciding to do more of them. I’m thinking they after removing the dash tower, tonight, I’ll be sending more out for coating.

This says it all

Probably better than finding a snowman in Florida

Got that right Randy. Now that Cindy is retired every morning at ☕️ we ask each other "what's on the agenda for today"? Replies are always whatever we want!

Yooo guyzz izzkillin meee....

Whew, thanks for that.

The engine and Spec number on your M-12 is common to all 312s built from 1987 to to 1997 so that doesn' narrow it down for us. There should be a sticker under your seat that has a modal number for the tractor, that would get the job done. Please tell us a little about yourself and how you became interested in Wheel Horses or some other intress you may have.

Kohler made the engine in 1998 so not original to the tractor but they made it for Wheel Horse.

I may still have my outfit from our last luau. The skirt is adjustable, but my coconuts would be pretty small for a large bear

Made a real haul of Kroger gas. I had fuel points of 70 cents a gallon last month and fifty cents this month. So with a maximum of 35 gallons x two purchases I saved 42 dollars on 70 gallons. The truck was pretty empty and I had enough fuel containers for fiffty gallons as well, so it was all good. i need to build outside storage because thats just too much in a garage... One time me and another guy were filling all our fuel cans at Kroger and a third guy asked us why we were buying all the gas... "You mean you don't know?"' i said.. A big pipeline just blew up and the stock market fell by fifty percent..! The guy just turned green so I bailed out of my lie pretty quickly and he laughed in relief. Not so sure I would want to chance it the way things in the world are going right now.

Here my other hitch It's removable. Only fits the 312-8. The 312 hitch is braced to the top of the transmission. My others are all braced to the hitch at the back of the transmission.

@WHX??… I looked that up too. That’s why I said “It wasn’t as bad as I thought “… I at first thought it was referring to a body part !😆 So no worries here at all… I am not easily insulted, and I don’t think that’s what you were saying. I know I get on here and poke fun at people, especially Pullstart, Eric, Kevin and a few others, and when I do that I am opening myself up to be poked back. I think this forum is absolutely full of great people!

Are your points opening & closing when the engine turns over? If they are not opening they will eventually burn together and/or over heat the coil. If they start smoking as soon as you hook up the power wire, then I would expect a bad coil. Like stated above, make sure that you have the correct style of coil. It needs to have an internal resistor.

Having recently acquired a pedal equipped 520LXI, the pressure has been on me to construct something similar for my 518H. Whilst I am used to the hand lever (steering column type in this case) and footbrake method of control, I find the control lever awkward to use, especially if you don't have power steering (though my 518H DOES have power steering!). My thanks go to Matt, Bill D and kpinnc for publishing their systems and particularly to kpinnc (Kevin) for his recent direct help. So, I have plagiarised bits from each really, to end up with my solution: I have to admit to a certain amount of laziness in that I didn't want to dismantle my tractor to the degree required by Matt's installation and so I decided to attempt a direct connection from the pedal to the control yoke with a simple pushrod. (Matt's system uses a simple pushrod, except that he adds a lever to the control yoke to reverse the action of the underslung crank on his pedal). My pedal is a standard manual tractor brake pedal (ie fitted on the right had side), to which I brazed an over slung crank so that pushing the pedal forwards pulls the pushrod forwards and tilts the control yoke forwards....no extra lever is required. Here's the pushrod: The left hand Heim joint bolts onto the control yoke alongside the column control pushrod and the right hand end bolts onto the pedal crank. The dog leg was required to make the push rod horizontal at the pedal end to make the self centring fork easier to make - this just bolts straight to the chassis rail I should point out at this stage that I may have more room over the chassis rails in my tractor because I no longer have a fan gear, due to having power steering. I may therefore have space that a standard tractor does not..... but it is fairly easy to check to see if a pushrod will fit. Additionally, I have hydraulic pipes for the steering where Matt's conversion mounts his self centring system, so whilst his solution is simple and rather elegant, it wouldn't work for me! My system uses a pair of compression springs on the pushrod, bearing on a chassis mounted 'fork'. Two identical springs centre the pushrod and the zero drive position for the transmission can be set to match this by adjusting the Heim joints (Rose joints in the UK!). The final issue was how to convert the brake pedal to provide the reverse function. I tried a number of different arrangements and didn't like them for various reasons (I don't actually like the 520LXI system to be truthful as it is not a good idea to use the pedal as a rocker because it is very easy to over control which I feel rather defeats the object of a foot pedal! (The scratch on my near immaculate 520LXI bears witness to the folly of 'pedal rocking' in the confined space of my shed earlier this week). Matt adds a reverse pedal to the standard brake pedal, Bill's is a rocker and Kevin's uses a commercially available pedal...all of which are nice solutions but I wanted to use the standard right hand brake pedal and so was leaning towards Matt's system when I came up with the idea of a toe lift system, rather like the gear change on a motor cycle. It is therefore rather unconventional, but having now driven it, I feel it is good enough to try using on the machine properly. Only further experience with it will tell. Sadly I have run out of photo space so will add a picture of the pedal when I have completed this initial post.

I say “go all the way”

I’m really liking everything so far. Please keep us updated with pictures as you go! Thx

Interesting question. If the bad valve is on the inlet side of the pump and the new check valve is installed very close to the pump inlet and the diaphram and the pump outlet valve are good, it may just work if you never allow the pump to lose its prime. Let us know after you try it. Or just rebuild the pump.

He buys begs borrows & steals the pieces from NAPA and has the handy dandy crimper @RandyLittrell. I got one from him at the BS and they are nice but me thinks Ole Sqounky bent me... @Achto and I since buy plug wire sets at Fleet Farm. Supposed to be for a Continental Dan?? Enough wire and ends to make a few.

That’s great news!! You’ll be able to surf Red Square all day now

Congrats on your accomplishments, and thank you for your service!

From the manual:

M-Series engine used 1987 or later but could have been made in 1986.

Congratulations !! Kick back & enjoy.

It's going to be a 1980-84 - Only years for the Black Hoods...

You will have to fab your own if you want a PTO guard. OSHA didn’t exist in 1964.

Took my sons bikes on our Dinosaur Valley State Park last week and did about 5 miles each day. Didn’t puff a bit. I just love those new pedal assist e-bikes!!!

I gotta ask… you expecting snow soon?

You are correct on the years produced. Check the pto switch - 1980-81 4 wires, 1984 2 wires

Wed. Night from 2017 Wed. 2018

A short will smoke the points immediately.

I'll add some dimensions to my 3D CAD drawings and post them here if that would help?

One horse town so one horse parade... on a bus seat with Poo Poos...