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A little while back I came home with a trailer full of stuff. Some of that stuff happened to be a C-81 I got from @tigwelder, thanks by the way, it’s been put to good use. I hadn’t had a chance to mess with it and it sat in my garage. Along comes my neighbor friend. Real good guy named Jeff. He’s an old tinkerer from way back. He always messed with non-WH tractors prior. He had a small fleet of MW’s, Sears he was always tinkering on and through attrition they were pretty much used up and was in need of a tractor. Bing, an idea came into me head. I tells my friend hey I bet I have enough parts in my garage to make you a WH. How about I give you a tractor only catch is you’ll have to put it mostly together. Deal! So we did. Let me tell you guys, the sh*t eatin grin on his face tells it all. He couldn’t be happier. Now he’s gonna redo his hasty paint job and do it right and then buy a sticker kit. He bought a really nice set of wheels and tires for $50. He also bought a fuel pump. So he has about $70 in it. It’s bigger and stronger than any of those others he’s monkeyed with over the years. I was just happy to see it back and the smile on his face. It was worth every dime.

First time Wheel Horse owner. Never knew there was a whole community out there dedicated to WH's. Very cool! I recently picked up a used WH C-81 or maybe it's a C-121. Can't really be sure. There's a tag riveted to the small panel in front of the shifters with the ammeter in it. The tag No is 91-08K802-29819 with s/n 617. That tag no would indicate it's a 1979 C-81 with an 8 HP Kohler. The decal on the side of the hood says C-121 8 speed but that has clearly been layered over at least one previous decal. The engine has no tags left on it, or maybe they are buried under 6 coats of paint. The only way I figured I could verify the engine is by bore diameter, so off with the head! Bore measured 3.374 so I figure that makes it a K301 8 HP, would that be correct? After cleaning up several generations of melted wires and butt splices galore I was able to get the electrical system functioning pretty well. When I had the head off of it, it appeared in great shape internally. No signs of burning oil, very lightly carboned, valves look great. It actually had good oil in it too. Pulled the fuel tank, dumped out the sludge, cleaned it out real well. Reinstalled it with new fuel lines and inline filter. It looked like the fuel pump had been replaced as it was a plastic body. Put some gas in the tank, siphoned some fuel into the line and stuck it on the pump. With just a few cranks it fired right up without even pulling the carb off! Next thing I pulled the dip stick on the transmission and it had oil on it!!! But of coarse that was just the 1/2" of oil that was floating on top of 1/2 gal of water. No boot at all at the base of the shifter. I suppose that's where most of the water was getting in. It was already apparent that the left side axle seal was leaking so that's on the list. I filled the tranny with a little bit of everything I had on the shelf. Mostly auto transmission fluid and a little motor oil. I'll run that around the yard a few times to flush things out and then put the 140 gear oil in it. Of coarse the stuff I was pouring in was also pouring out that axle seal as fast as I poured it in. All in all for the $450 I paid for it, with a solid engine, A heavy duty rear hitch and excellent sheet metal and tires, I'm a happy camper. Bought it just to move my boat around the yard and this beast will do that without even breaking a sweat. Very glad to have found this forum and look forward to sharing in your WH experiences. Crazy8

Last weekend, Rylee’s boyfriend Henry helped me plant a few trees in the yard. Three 3’ apple trees and a 6’ red maple were plunked into the front yard. I knew I needed to protect them soon, but I didn’t get them taken care of soon enough. They’ll come back, but the deer found them to be a tasty treat! Today, I caged them and hope to give them the protection they need to thrive. We kept them near the road per Mrs. P’s request, but far enough from the power lines that they won’t be taken down any time soon at least. I don’t know the apple type, or if they’ll ever produce. They were given to me, and grown from grocery store apple seeds.

For the tracery part of these yokes one starts by drilling through to the opposite side. Holes are usually close to,or on the finished lines so they need to be 100% precise or carvings on opposite side will not be correct. When on the horizontal surface of bench I used a couple of squares next to auger to keep holes perpendicular to surface. Now that I use carving table that is no longer possible since it is at an incline. That position is actually more comfortable and convenient for the entire drilling process since I am standing straight.So I came up with this jig to keep holes perpendicular to surface. Auger rests up against v groove which is totally perpendicular to surface. It is totally adjustable and easy to use. One end pivots and is held by an hold fast and the other end uses a c clamp which is captive to jig so one does not need four hands to keep everything together. V groove block slides across beam. The table’s inclination automatically holds auger against V groove as it drills. There is also a V groove on bottom of block to aid with the initial chip ejection. Since all augers regardless of size are nearly identical in length , block’s height is sized so brace’s chuck acts as a depth stop.

Now I'm starting to think you need to seek professional help!

Three people in my neighborhood have Husqvarna's. Two of them have been replaced with other brands. Not sure of the model numbers, but like the TS 354 XD in the picture on Lowe's website, they don't have rear wheels that bolt to hubs, which is the first sign to me that they are only lawn tractors, not garden tractors. Do your due diligence before plunking down any real money. My opinion is that I would buy a 40 year old Wheel Horse that was designed for ground engagement before I would buy a Husqvarna.

I would have loved to try that, never got the opportunity. Highest tower I have climbed was a little over 700 feet. Doesn't matter how high you go, once you get past about 30' or so the landing would be the same. That's me on the hook ladder in my younger years. Second pic is 300' plus tower in Edgar Thomson Works, USS, Braddock, Pittsburgh Pa.

Whatever it pays, it isn't enough. We were notified that they would be running through the area on the towers. Well the time is now. The towers are about 1/2 mile south of us. I jumped in the truck to have a look. This was 30x zoom. The next tower was a stones throw from me but I decided that I didn't want to wait for an upclose shot. Do you suppose that the pilot is on that guys Christmas card list?

Something like this oughta work: I only gots one question boy... Youze like tractors? Good... Cuz you mess up, you gonna see the underside of one up close and personal... comprendee? (Ok, well, two question...)

Correction, I meant to say based on bore diameter it would be a K301 12 HP

Take the cage off in November, call to em, and...

I worked with a lineman doing magnetic field measurements near the 230KV conductors, I was safely on the ground, and he was near the conductors making the measurements. He held his hard hat near the conductor, and asked if I could hear the snapping sound of arcing inside his hard hat. Later I asked him whethor those were standard work boots, he said no and they needed to be semi conductive. If you spent too much time near the conductors the boots would get too hot for comfort. Whethor he was telling stories or not I don't know, but they couldn't pay me enough to go up and try.

I think it would take something far stronger to calm my nerves enough to climb a tower. Probably strong enough to make all motor functions so bad as to negate being physically able to climb said tower. I completed pole climbing school for GTE back in the day. It was plenty high enough, though about 1/100 the height of a tower. Since I didn't like that, I feel certain for me that a tower would cause a loss of bowel control. There are some amazing drone videos on YouTube of tower climbers. Such a job requires significant stones...

Not applicable to the trees you just planted but if you intend on planting more the thing to do is get a very small sapling. Plant it and put a “pipe” of perforated PVC of about 4” in diameter by 4 To 6 feet in length over it . Bury it on ground slightly. Tree will grow straight and faster reaching for the light. It will only develop branches once it reaches top of pipe. Such pipe is actually sold specialized for orchard planting and when trunk reaches inside of pipe it will break it. This way you also don’t need a cage around it and control height at which branches come out.

Um, no.

520-H 418-A and 417-8

1984 C105 w/snowblower 1964 654 w/plow

Your scag is a great machine, if I had considered zero turn I would probably went with the Bad Boy zero turn. Also if I purchase the husky it will not come from Lowe’s, the local dealer which is about 8 miles away and an old school mate. I do believe in helping the local business person. Also my wife thinks I have more tractor stuff than 1 man needs.

Actually @rmaynard that particular model does have 5 lug rear hubs. But you're right. Really a lawn tractor but I'm sure it would give quite a few tears just mowing. The engine should be pretty good. Personally @troutbum70, I would just use the Wheel Horse. My 76 has been mowing that much plus garden and snow duties and more since the day it was new. For what the Husky costs you could get two or more really premo Wheel Horses.

Hi all, Thanks to all of my Red Square friends who have expressed their condolences on my fathers passing. I have been doing extensive cleaning & some repairs to dad's 310-8, and the hours spent have been very therapeutic. So far, I have installed a pair of almost new 22x9.00x12 Titan Multi Tracs on the rear and have replaced the very worn out brake drum and it's friction band. And a new shifter boot. Installed a new drive belt and replaced the oils in the transmission and engine.

I recently acquired a nice 418-a that was my grandfather’s. It sat in a field for about 20 years, I got it up and running, new drive belt, fuel lines ect. The one thing I can’t seem to find is a new muffler since the one on it is rusted out. Anybody know where to get a new one? Thank you in advance!

Looks great! Can't wait to see it in person! Makes me want to restore one of mine, iam a fan of the patina look but I've got a few that are too far gone to save that way.

Ahem... I need to be sure I say this right... It's important so as not to offend anyone. Aw HELL NO!!!! The main difference between a 30 foot fall and 700 is simple: the sheer number of obscenities and volume of excrement I would produce during the time of flight. I've safely landed a helicopter from over a 1000 feet without power over 500 times. They weren't all pretty, but both myself and the aircraft survived it. That didn't scare me, but falling out of it would have!

Crazy. You found the right place for your info about your horse. Only thing you need to know about us is we like . You need manuals we got em. Here too back in '15 when I joined. Sounds like you got a handle on treating it right. You mentioned ATF. Is this a hydro? Nevermind you also mentioned shifter boot. We are going to have to have you check the outboard transmission bearings if it leaks that bad.

Zero turns arch enemy is wet leaves. Every fall I see zero turns everywhere stuck on wet leaves and leaving. some good tire marks. Plus a lot of guys tend to go flat out on them making the deck bounce and leaving clumps and a crappy cut. I enjoy my seat time. It's like therapy and the sound of a singing Kohler stimulates my brainstorming activity.

Is the cheers the professional help? Fred Dibnah, Steeplechase, said he could only climb a tower after a couple pints. It helped to calm the nerves

Unfortunately you are in for long fight with the deer. You will have to make a much wider cage when trees start to grow and branches get to fence. Until they are too tall for them it’s going to take constant attention. Hang some Irish Spring soap on fence. Keeps them away.

Looks like a fun time! When I grow up I want to change the light bulbs in the radio towers

Another thing you might want to consider is a zero turn. Pure dedicated mowing machine.

Murdock comes to mind.

Better secure that little bit of extra weight in those plastic bottles. Wouldn't want them to fall off. Aerator spikes would puncture them and kill the grass.

Sounds like a good kid... do I need to put the fear of God in him tho? I've got bunches of big wire hoops when I started trees you need them. Wished I woulda known about them newfangled pipes Cas mentioned.

Thank you Auger only cuts on the tip. Two spurs and two cutters on tip. Spurs cut ahead of cutters to provide clean sharp hole sides and facilitate the chip to eject once cut since it is by then cut around perimeter. Sides of auger (flutes) do not cut only direct chips upwards. Contrary to a regular drill bit which works the same way but will cut if an”edge” is exposed. However placed flat against a large surface such as the sides of V groove they will also not cut.

Do NOT use a Std. B Series (B79) belt

Fiber optics is one thing... the dudes that work on the high voltage lines...??? yikes! The suit and the arc rod make it exciting to say the least...

Where did I go wrong?

I had to tie these to the cage, to train them up a bit. It would be advantageous to have that happen automatically! I did recently learn, that Native Americans used to use trees as trail markers. They would train a sapling down to grow 90 degrees towards their village, clean water, etc.

Yes you can do it that way. It works really well and you will have identically sized trees. The pipe also acts as a bit of a “greenhouse” helping it grow faster along with it wanting to reach light. It gives you always a straight trunk.

NIIIIICE 👍👍👍🙂😊😁

Sure, we could put you to work on the farm! Hope you don’t mind eating eggs and deer

Would she consider adopting me?

As fond as I am of the 854 and round hoods in general, the decks can be a challenge. I am mostly comfortable with mine now, but the face-to-bevel gearing between the floating cross shaft and the spindles gave me some extra work. It had too much gear lash due to wear (and unworn ones are VERY hard to come by) and it was quite noisy. Ultimately, I put it all together, measured the lash and then took it apart again to add an appropriate shim behind one of the face gears on the cross shaft to take most of the lash out (@ri702bill reminded me to leave some lash for grease and thermal expansion in use). It is quieter now, but will never sound like a deck without gears! I was fortunate to get one very good triple pulley setup with clean and solid bearings (flushed and re-greased) so I haven’t yet had to pull one apart! In case you haven’t noticed, there are two lengths of spindle--about ⅛” difference between them. The longer ones are intended to accommodate the thrust bearing that the later decks had under the bevel gear.

My suspicion is that this model may have a K46 transmission with how inexpensively built the majority of riders are but I am open to being proven wrong. The K46 would be fine if only 18" tires and 42" and smaller decks were used on them, but the fact that this mower has a selectable option for a diff lock says it may be a K58 or K62. https://www.tufftorq.com/full-line-comparison/?category=lawn-garden&subcategory=Tuffer If the transmission were a K57, 58, or 62, I'd be a little more receptive of it. I would want to measure the diameter of the axle to be sure; the K46 and K 57 both have a .75" while the K58 & up have 1" axles.

Yes I'm sure he is! I flew helicopters in the Army, so I can vouch for one of two things: that pilot is very good, or completely crazy! Probably best to say he's a little of both! So many things to go wrong while doing that work. Helicopters are regularly used for work like that, but like everything else, accidents happen. It's a single engine helicopter, flying too low to perform a traditional autorotation, and too high for a hovering auto. Definitely a job I would not want. Same for pilot or lineman!

@953 nut thanks for the reference , did not mention KROIL OR RED SPRAY GREASE , have a regular track down on issues , initial problem is always related to another close point . thing that consistently shoes up is much easier / function along with reliability . figure if you are right there , with a related issue , why not make that better while you are there . just me , but the basic starting problem issue ,is a step by step , make a change , correction . often suggest something that was not there , but if you had the problem , made a change , and the problem is gone , isn't that what you want ? keep my fuel tanks full, sta bil in all my gas , fuel check valve , 2 gas filters , detail in choke function . lubricate related cables , super lube . starts so easily its ridiculous. realize this is not what many want to hear , its not in the book , but it sure does work . keep correcting , lawn spiker , pete

Unreal… it’s starting to stick to stuff!

Slammed my head into my container door and almost fell off the ladder but….. we have a garage door and are ready for roof panels.

Thanks @peter lena this issue definitely led me to address some issues, misdirected as some might have been. I'm a bit of a loner and tend to hunker down in the shop with a to overanalyze and grease things . This issue if not for the outcome made me bring the fuel supply issue and some other stuff up to where they should be...

Look again at the RM-366 Manual - in particular, part # 54 in the diagram. It IS the inner race spacer, WH # 6595 and MUST be used (and sized correctly). That triple pulley has the "Classic" 2 ball bearing design - the spacer keeps the inner races stationary when the bolt is tightened. The outer race of the inboard bearing is compressed by the shoulder in the pulley so it revolves with the pulley. Now for the correct sizing - the spacer must be slightly long to keep the outboard bearing outer race away from the shoulder in the pulley. The outer race must be able to "float" in the bore..... Running it with NO spacer puts the bearings under too much side load, gets worse when it warms up - premature failure. One other thing to consider - the new ball bearings will have either seals or metal shields. Seals are easier to remove and reinstall - the idea is to flush the existing grease out and replace it with a GOOD high temp grease, like the green Lucas Xtra Heavy Duty grease. Helps them run smoother, longer, cooler....This is really important if they have seals - sealed bearings by their nature run hotter than shielded bearings. The 366 and the 327 DO share a lot of common parts. Best of luck with this - @peter lena is the grease guy; @Handy Don has a 366 he recently went thru. Bill