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Made a few improvements to carving table . Now that I do not have the need nor the desire to do projects for anyone else, it seems that the carving table is always attached to bench being used very often. That has also created the need for another addition to the bench in the form of a leg vise since carving table partially obstructs the main vise that I use most. Reinforced old crack on table even though it was stable and solid. Added and improved tool shelf . Bottom support ledge can now be mounted also vertically for added support and it is adjustable Tool shelf keeps tools with cutting edges toward me for quick selection .It pivots independently of table and can be removed in less than a minute altogether with tools on them. Added the ability to use carver’s screws to allow secure holding of odd carvings without using any holdfasts or clamps. They also allow carving to be rotated for easy access. A permanent captive nut is fastened to back of table in two areas. Small hodfasts can be used over entire area. Table is also now where all drafting and drawing is done. As a result of carving table partially obstructing main vise another one was devised. Leg vise uses door and already existing bench slave clamp holes present also on drawers. No modifications to bench except enlarging bottom hole and adding a copper sleeve for fulcrum point. Door is still usable as long as nothing is clamped on vise. Vise is quickly removable if not needed. Although vise is light and removable it is incredibly strong. It has an opening capacity of 4” and 12” to screw Center of bench is now again fully usable since other end is also usually taken up with another task.

Hi. What would the original seat look like and do you think this is the original steering wheel? Thanks John

Our 5 x 8 heavy duty utility trailer has been needing new deck boards for a few years. We've thrown some temp boards in once maybe 3 years ago ((??)) Worked fine but now it's time to fix it long term. Trina's next destruction/rebuilding project is to remove the KD and OSB, scuff off as much rust as possible, repaint and install nice new PT 2 x 8 boards.

While mowing with the 48" SD yesterday I noticed the blades slowed in the heavy grass. I suspected the deck belt may need replaced, so off came the deck today. The belt was good, but the tensioner slide was locked with dead grass and gunk. Cleaned that up aand got the slide working. Then I found the center pulley loose on the spindle. The rare DD of course. With a wallowed out hole. I dug through some buckets and found this in the 4th one. A different number, but all measurements checked the old pulley. A perfect fit.

First day out since being upgraded. Thursday? Oh well it'll be Saturday soon enough. One more for the heck of it.

Well least they got a Mickie Ds...

Seat & steering wheel are not correct for that tractor. These pictures are of a 867. The seat is not original, but as close as I could find new. Your seat should look similar. Your steering wheel should be the same as the one in the pictures. I believe that I purchased the seat from - https://www.wheelhorseforum.com/forum/177-kb-horse-parts/

And that's the way it was ... Walter Crankcase... err Cronkite...

A day late. Got plenty wider, but still wider than stock.

Slide carbs offer poor Power response at low throttle inputs, a small engine running at 3600 with no load only uses about 5-10% of the actual throttle throw on the carb, but when load is added, you want immediate response. A side or down draft butterfly carb offers excellent idle, mid range mixing, and throttle response. A constant velocity carb helps the response by simulating a smaller carb at lower speeds...however they are finicky. As mentioned, linear governor linkages can be complicated with a cable driven system...as well, the slide would be making hundreds of movements a minute, wear would be a problem.

Maybe a little bit......a 1972 Yarbrough MFG Comet. It works great behind my RAV 4. The key is with the little tires is to not be a speed demon. The tires say do not exceed 55mph and they mean it. When the tires get the faintest hint of dry rot, replace them and don't wait to do it. Also it bounces a whole lot when it's empty. I've used mine a lot but you just can't fly when pulling it.

This is what I used on my first show so far. Two laminated A3 sheets with some info on the build and a QR-code people can scan with their phone which leads to my Instagram profile (where I post progress of my build).

Zach, I have a few more here needing work when you’re done! Great work!

More excavation after work today. Not sure what my motrin intake would be without power but I'm sure it wouldn't be healthy.

The folks from The Badge Factory used to come to the big show, very nice people. That’s where I got mine from because I don’t have the talent that @Achto has! 👍🏻

That's awesome when even the work surface and set up itself is a work of art to work on art! Clever design!

May I suggest you unbundle those PT boards, get them higher off the ground so they will dry out as much as possible. I realize the trailer floor will get wet in service, but its amazing how much some of those boards can shrink when dry. so that's why I like to install them relativity dry When I repainted my trailer after scuffing it up, I coated the rusty areas with OSPO to somewhat neutralize the rust. I used the Hammered Black paint with a spray gun and semi-don't recommend it. It faded quickly and lost the "hammered look" But it has been on there for 8 years and has not peeled or let rust occur, but it does to appear to be wearing thin from age.

Landscape Trailer. They also make 4 place sled trailers.

Wider’n some, skinnier’n others… P.S. the ice auger don’t work so great in dirt.

Bought a new Triton aluminum trailer in 1995 and used it for many things for 20 years. On a regular basis that trailer went from Mass to Maine in all kinds of weather on a 470 mile round trip back and forth to camp. Never any failures but always carried 2 spare tires ready to go just in case. In the later years I added the clamshell cover to be able to get more use out of it and keep things dry. Pictured is the trailer with stake pockets and a home made rack body if you will. Sold it 3 years ago with the sale of 2 snowmobiles. Worked great for WH tractors as well.

He's got more talent Don in his piggy toe then all of us put together! Good idea on the QR code @sjoemie himself to your build or website or whatever . Not an avid FBer but good idea if one is.

Garry, @gwest_ca is the best. He has done so many things to help us that he would be my nominee for man of the century if we had such a thing.

Wow! And here I was thinking I was doing something with a plastic plaque!😂

—and he is even saying, “What’s next?”

I have one. It’s kind of my only open trailer. I realize I didn’t take many trailer pictures, but it is likely overloaded with two heavy GTs on it. I have brand new tires and wheels and fresh grease in the bearings. It won’t much leave the county.

Small update! Since I wasn't satisfied with how my homemade mufflers looked and sounded I was on the lookout for something else. I debated making a new pair but decided against that because... I finally got my hands on two brand new IH Cub mufflers. They were about $60 a piece so I can't really complain about that. Oh, did I mention they look awesome Only thing I did'nt like is that they're a bit short. So a trip to the car-accessories store was made to find a extention. Unfortunately without luck since this muffler is so small. I looked online and stumbled upon these.. they are, believe it or not, vacuum cleaner tubes and they fit perfectly! All I need to do now is mount them and make some miniature flappers. Hopefully I can mount them coming weekend, fingers crossed!

My 2¢ here... It pretty much no longer matters where a part is manufactured or even assembled. High quality machine equipment is everywhere and, except for certain high-tech industries like chipmaking, the knowledge of how to make stuff and put it together is essentially global. Much more important, IMHO, are the quality of the materials being used and the standards and specifications being applied to the manufacture and assembly. These (along with shipping) are the main drivers of quality and price. Unfortunately, none of this information is readily available to us for general consumer products and parts where there are few to no standards beyond basic safety (e.g. a UL-listing or the CE mark and some ASTM standards). Still, for many if not most products, using a country of manufacture or assembly, any country (even the US), as a shorthand for quality of product has become a useless and misleading exercise. Climbing down off my soapbox now.

A little TLC and a good bath should make it a great worker. The belt guard needs to be replaced or you will be grinding a few gears.

Just remember that the regulator has nothing to do with spark. It's function is to keep the battery charged.

Finally got the concrete pad down for the conservatory. It rained as soon as we finished, so had to go back out and try to fix the surface. Then the neighbours dog walked through it, so I fixed that. Then one of the cats walked through it, so I fixed that.... Back at sea again for two weeks, building conservatory will be first job when I get home.

There is a product made by CRC called Lectra-Motive. It's an electric parts cleaner. Use that to clean the stator. It's specially designed to clean the stator windings without damaging the insulation on them. Excellent product for removing dirt and grease. I've used it to degrease many small parts. Berryman also makes a version of this product as well. Just Google Electric Motor Cleaner.

Or @Pullstart, you could have used a little itty bitty funnel and filled it through the valve stem…

Whoever invented that should win a Nobel prize!

Squeaky fresh ... 'fraid it was Lite... hi test was in use other places... prolly shoulda fed it Cap'ns...

Excellent tutorial... But, he left out two critical initial steps... drink beer number 2 while waiting for oil to heat up, drink beer number 3 whilst waiting for curds to deep fry... I mean, really? A Wisconsin activity that only entails one beer?

After you get done detailing it, a nice custom sign from @Achto would be fine... Now about your battery charging techniques... were they fresh curds? Wasn't a light beer was it?

That really is awesome, and so is your son! I would think such a thing would blow most of the other kids minds! Most kids nowadays ask Siri how to change a lightbulb, or they ask "who" to call for such...

Thanks Richard for the clarification and careful explanation. We got everything wired up yesterday and now are well on the road of reassembly. Zach is having so much fun putting the pieces back together… I purchased to chromed button heads for the highly visible outer fender bolts and here Zach is installing those. He is getting to use “his tools” throughout the process and I have to keep reminding myself that this kid is only 9 years old. He is doing such a great job. I’m hoping that we can arrange for a “show-and-tell” at the school before the end of the school year. That smile is priceless!

battery hold down fixed and painted, Yahoo! Also 1st start today, Yipee!

You will need a solid link instead of a chain for best results.

Those are pictures of a beautiful 867! Very nice!

Okay the CRC Lectra-Motive says for energized equipment and will harm plastic parts. The CRC QD Electronic Cleaner says plastic safe, may pool in areas, and make sure completely dry before re-energizing. May remove lubrication from moving parts. The Mac’s NAPA brand basically says safe on plastic, fast drying… Which would you use to cleaner a stator ? @ebinmaine , @Handy Don , @953 nut , @Bill D

A motorcycle that was returned earlier.. !!!!

This is a slightly older thread, but the topic does come up fairly often... I ran across a post from Save Old Iron, one of our formerly regular contributors, and thought I would add it to the discussion here for a broader perspective on the issue. It's from a thread called "seafoam Yay or Nay??" back in 2014. I've corrected some weird formatting in the original post, but I didn't change his content at all: -------- One very important question to be asked before giving it a Yea or Nay would be "What do you expect to accomplish by the use of this product?" Experience tells me most expectations for "liquid fix" products fall into one of three very different categories. Scenario one. "I use it a few times a year as preventative medicine." This, in my opinion, is the expectation held by the most informed user, folks who take one a day vitamins and 81mg aspirin. These users understand 50 year old gasoline engines will develop deposits in the combustion chamber and in the valve area. These users understand gradual varnish buildup takes place in the fuel delivery system as a natural aging process. These users understand small deposits are most easily resolved by fuel system cleaners WHEN THE DEPOSITS ARE IN THE EARLY STAGES OF THEIR DEVELOPMENT. I have been using this product for nearly 15 years and believe SeaFoam will perform admirably as a preventative added during regular fuel-ups. Scenario two. "I used it when I had a fuel problem and it didn't do a $^#^ thing!" NOT EVERY ISSUE CAN BE CURED BY SEAFOAM. A worn out throttle shaft closely mimics varnished fuel passages in a carburetor. SeaFoam cannot cure a worn throttle shaft, problems with corroded points or a problematic ignition coil. You may not have properly diagnosed this problem and used the wrong tool to attempt to correct your problem. However, Seafoam can function very nicely as an exclusionary diagnostic tool. Many talented automotive diagnosticians use products such as this to eliminate suspect areas of the fuel delivery system in cars. The SeaFoam treatment works wonders for diagnosing and correcting fuel injector delivery imbalance caused by buildups dissolvable by SeaFoam. Scanario three. "I used SeaFoam and it caused a whole bunch of other issues." I'm guessing these engines and fuel systems were what I call TW's. "train wrecks". Problems just waiting to happen. 20 plus year old fuel lines, brittle fuel pump check valves and years of tarnish, bugs, and trash in the fuel tank. Adding (or probably overloading) the fuel with Seafoam breaks off large chucks of varnish, bugs and debris and clogs your fuel filter or maybe even your carb passages. Dam#^$% Seafoam. Not the fault of the product itself as it is doing what it promised “dissolving" deposits. You are using the product improperly and expecting a miraculous cure for your TW. Ain't gonna happen! Use the right tool for the right job and have realistic expectations. As far as the negatives you have heard. "Too much smoke“, sorry, you are using the product improperly, you are putting waaaayyyy to much product in your fuel. "Too expensive", OK. Buy the gallon and reduce the price in half. Less than 50 cents per thankful a few times per year. It's a hard argument to make when you spend hundreds of dollars in time / materials on your paint job on that same tractor !! If a cheaper alternative is needed, I have also personally used Chevron Techron fuel additive in everything from Porches to Dodge Caravans without issue. "Didn't clean up my carbon deposits“, you don't want to clean a cylinder area with heavy deposits by chemical action alone. Wrong tool for the job. You don't want flaked off carbon "chips" down around the piston ring area. Best to remove major carbon buildup by mechanical scraping and then followup with regular addition of the additive. "Not recommended in the manufacturer's manual". I haven't checked later model engine manuals but the K series wouldn't be updated since it is no longer manufactured. Manufacturers typically don't recommend any additives but I have yet to see any manufacturers specifically stating not to use SeaFoam or like products. Most manufacturers don't care as long as the product makes it through the warranty period. As far as the composition of the product, MSDS sheets are not required to list any manufacturer's "secret ingredients". The only time they disclose those secrets is if someone presents at a hospital ER having swallowed their product. The physician will then contact the manufacturer and then be informed of any additional ingredients not listed on the MSDS. --------

I use that on Starter/Generators too, washes away the gunk without doing any damage. Good stuff!

I have done a hose and a pump to fill through valve stems before. I’ve also used a portable air tank filled with antifreeze, charged with air pressure, then shot through a valve stem. It all works, but this was easily the least mess.

Beer number 2 is in the batter. Like that card game. Flip one, burn one.