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I cut signs out of wood in the shape of the front of the tractor. Then burned my info on to them. They have a small post on them so that you can stick them in the ground in front of the tractor. Trina should be able to whip a few of these out for you in no time.

BUT - wasn't that the Manufacturers job to do just that ?????? It's like going to a Breakfast Diner and ordering 2 eggs over easy - and having the cook hand you an apron, telling you that you have to cook them yourself !!!!!

@kpinnc @SylvanLakeWH @TonyToro @Monstrosity Here’s what I did for Rylee’s Commando 800 “Screamin’ Jimmy” in 2018. I cut the back foot rest bar off a C series frame, adapted it to the Commando frame, and notched a foot rest to fit another pedal. If she ever chooses to put it back to stock, we can remove the pedal and foot rest, and cover the second bar with another foot rest. I told her that some day when she teaches her kids to drive it, she can put the second pedal kit back on. I often joke that I was born with my butt pretty close to the ground. I am 5’6” on an average day, if I’m standing proud, I might squeak by at 5’7”. I can drive it comfortably with the second pedal just fine.

Made a few improvements to carving table . Now that I do not have the need nor the desire to do projects for anyone else, it seems that the carving table is always attached to bench being used very often. That has also created the need for another addition to the bench in the form of a leg vise since carving table partially obstructs the main vise that I use most. Reinforced old crack on table even though it was stable and solid. Added and improved tool shelf . Bottom support ledge can now be mounted also vertically for added support and it is adjustable Tool shelf keeps tools with cutting edges toward me for quick selection .It pivots independently of table and can be removed in less than a minute altogether with tools on them. Added the ability to use carver’s screws to allow secure holding of odd carvings without using any holdfasts or clamps. They also allow carving to be rotated for easy access. A permanent captive nut is fastened to back of table in two areas. Small hodfasts can be used over entire area. Table is also now where all drafting and drawing is done. As a result of carving table partially obstructing main vise another one was devised. Leg vise uses door and already existing bench slave clamp holes present also on drawers. No modifications to bench except enlarging bottom hole and adding a copper sleeve for fulcrum point. Door is still usable as long as nothing is clamped on vise. Vise is quickly removable if not needed. Although vise is light and removable it is incredibly strong. It has an opening capacity of 4” and 12” to screw Center of bench is now again fully usable since other end is also usually taken up with another task.

Recent Wisconsin Cheese Curd, Tractor and Beer Festival sign: I don't always drink Wheel Horse at beer shows, but when I do, I ride Dos Equis...

That's about right for everything Bob. Your 2021 $1.00 is worth about $0.50 today. Problem is I have trouble doubling the price of everything I sell.

I fluid filled a tire with no tube in it. I ended with bead sealer on both edges of the rim and also on the new valve stem.

Maybe you'll have to make one for a certain tractor @Achto that might not be leaving Wisconsin... Second thought maybe it will ... I tried stuffing curds down them battery holes followed with a wash of beer and the tractor still wouldn't go...

I just print out the information on a sheet of paper and slide it into a sheet protector. The three holes are handy for fastening it to the tractor and the opening faces down to protect the paper from getting wet.

So this should be something new. Adjustable air ride. Just quickly set it up temp to see how they work and get some inspiration ideas how to fit them. Might redesign some stuff to slam it low for park and then raise it to any comfort level for cruising. The spring coil overs I have are a little stiff but they look good and match the front, so we'll see how it goes.

I have some of these. https://thebadgefactory.com/

I'd offer store it far you, but it's got a Tecumsum, Don't want to infect the rest of my herd. Very nice looking C-120 with great patina

I have tried a few aftermarket carb kits and was never happy with the results. Now I will only buy the OEM kits, it must say "Kohler genuine part". They cost more but every thing fits as it should and I don't have any issues when I'm done.

I am teasing you Pete, but you bring some great info to this site and never get tired of helping others!! We appreciate you!!! Randy

Almost traded off my C-120, but pulled it out of the shed and remembered just how nice it is!! Guess I have to make it run now!! Randy

@ebinmaine and @kpinnc, I went to Horror Fright and got this… and I didn’t have to smack it… popped right off… Take a look and give me the rundown. Is the crud level behind the flywheel bad or not, with 5 being the worst you’ve seen and 1 being the best ? What would be an acceptable cleaning agent or method for behind there… stator and all ? Also, how can I check the stator electrically speaking ?… measure resistance ?

Same here seems like the luck of the draw. Ordered a carb for the cement saw and it was junk. Let the flea bayer know and promplty refunded me. Didn't even want it back... makes me think the seller knows it junk. Try this on that bowl nut gasket Bob. Also works for holding the bowl seal & baffle in when the carb is mounted on the motor & you can get the bowl on.

I second that. I have used I don't know have many from I save tractors and never had an issue. Matter of fact I just put one in a carb on a 1067 this week and it's been great so far. I can't say about other brands though, I only get kits from isavetractors.com.

I was 5' 9 3/4" for 70 years. Just came back from my 4 mo. heart check up. They measured me at 5' 7". Where did 2 3/4" go? no hair, no meniscus in my knees, couple collapsed discs, Get ready Kevin....gravity will pull you down.

Awww... My little girl is in such good hands... Reminds me... @Pullstart quit messin' with chickens and tire beads... you got tractors to wrangle... time for a road trip young man...!!!

We had this discussion about carb rebuild kits a bit ago. Consensus was to just use the Kohler ones. They have gotten pricey too tho.

Same stuff I used on Sylvia's A60. Comes off a little easier than anti seize on a plow handle tho...

A short piece of flat bar with two holes drilled will pull the flywheel safety. There are usually two tapped 3/8 holes on either side of the flywheel nut. They are for adding a shaft to run things from the flywheel side, but double nicely to make a puller as well.

Here is my 656.

Hey @SylvanLakeWH! @Achtoand @WHX?? got nothin on the true Mitten State now! Even @Mikey the Monkey can make ‘em trimming cow hoofs!

More excavation after work today. Not sure what my motrin intake would be without power but I'm sure it wouldn't be healthy.

@Lee1977 sent a mid hitch to Trina. I cut that a bit the other day. This evening she a ground the edge and threw some paint on it. I started laying out the wiring harness.

Sounds like a personal problem... If that's the case then just what Richard or I does should suffice. Just make sure to mention that they are SUPPOSED to be RED... Bonus points for a double zinger in the same thread?

Brake cleaner would be just fine on the fly wheel, heck even a brass brush to get the big chunks off. Brake cleaner would also work on the stator, but an electrical contact cleaner may be better suited for the job. https://www.walmart.com/ip/CRC-Electronic-Cleaner-Quick-Dry-for-Sensitive-Electronics-11-oz/16817418?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=0&wl13=2986&adid=2222222227716817418_117755028669_12420145346&wmlspartner=wmtlabs&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=501107745824&wl4=aud-1651068664706:pla-294505072980&wl5=9019452&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=8175035&wl11=local&wl12=16817418&wl13=2986&veh=sem_LIA&gclid=CjwKCAjwov6hBhBsEiwAvrvN6LuAGmCRzLdM3eNrwAGspQCc-ZV6XYMyUKV5NEpyLyJLXHkl8QFeihoCWJAQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds About the only bench test that I can offer on the stator is a continuity test. You should have continuity between the two wires that come out of the stator. (fairly low resistance) There should be NO continuity from either stator wire to the block.

Or throttle remote control to speed it up so their butt bites the seat to keep'm on there

If those old Geezers can't balance a two wheeler you better install a seat switch so it will stop when they fall off.

Got the, as Taryl would say, muffkin off… I did whack it a little… took a small punch and separated the part that slides over the exhaust nipple that comes off the engine…

That really is awesome, and so is your son! I would think such a thing would blow most of the other kids minds! Most kids nowadays ask Siri how to change a lightbulb, or they ask "who" to call for such...

What I use ...sometimes if I remember to bring them. I need to laminate them they get wet yer done. Just print off another one then. Need to covert the file to a Jpeg or pdf too 1067 Tractor Cards3.docx

Are you talking Big Show, or any show ?

I know we have had lots of different steering wheel posts on Red Square. Many about taking one off , unusual ones, how to restore some versions and replacements for custom tractors. However, I thought I would start a post to see if we could gather photos of the different versions Wheel Horse used on models made over the years. I will start with some of the steering wheels I have (I took these pictures this morning ) . I have more but it will take some time to get the rest!

And the parts the oil is protecting from wear were the same ones then as now. Newer engines have components that were specifically engineered for multi viscosity oil and a pressurized lubrication system. The old reliable splash lubricated air cooled cast iron Kohler engines have been delivering outstanding service with straight 30 weight oil for over half a century. Don't mess with success!

It’s from the local parts store. Like anti-seize, it seems to travel a while

Yes, and the bottom one has bead sealer from the get go. The top gets dried off, then bead sealer to finish. Bead sealer also on the new valve stem.

Rylee is a chip off the old block, boots and shorts, wonder where she ever got that idea.

Added an extra clamp and reinstalled the original throttle lever, seems much better. Yesterday I got a new belt for the hydraulic pump, topped off the fluid and it seems fully functional except when I use the down pressure, it pisses fluid out of the cylinder......will have to rebuild it, if it's rebuildable???

I follow this by putting clean oil on a paper towel and scrubbing the cylinder. Repeat using a new towel each time until the towel comes out clean (no black residue on the paper towel)

The correct gearbox as Bill and Don mentioned is the key. Direction of rotation. Without inspecting it in person to look inside there's plenty of assumptions being made but going by appearance it doesn't really look that involved to me. BUT, stuff like that is within my wheelhouse as I've already modified quite a few things that wasn't originally designed for a WH tractor. Chipper, Rotory Broom, blowers, etc plus have a pretty good stock pile of parts and such. Direction of rotation can be changed with the addition of a gearbox from a 1962 round hood blower that does exactly that for those blowers. Or gearboxes from mower decks from different makes. Some Ariens tractors drive their decks with a 90 deg gearbox that you can move the gear inside to the opposite side of a shaft and change the rotation direction of the output shaft. I buy weird stuff like that at the shows, or take stuff off of things for parts. Just like you asked about scavenging parts from that car, it may not get used for years but it's here if the light bulb lights someday. Yes, there's a bunch of "junk" around here

Production numbers unknown, I’d say millions if not tens of millions of steering wheels were used. Let’s not forget the ones with no steering wheels….

Cleaned the 42 inch recycler mower deck, put new blades on and greased all the spindles. Mowed great after the maintenance work was done.

Whoever invented that should win a Nobel prize!

I've never had to strike one, and do not recommend it. You never strike a cast iron flywheel. Did I mention NEVER? If you use the flat bar like I describe above, and two long bolts- it'll pop right off. And I do mean "pop"...

Ride Away Sr.