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As I indicated in the previous thread regarding the shipwrights tool box, my friend Ed’s father was a master shipwrights. Out of necessity he was also a very talented and prolific plane maker. I have dozens of planes made by him most of them showing extraordinary wear. Along with them also old irons worn down to the point of inutility. There are also quite a few planes started but never completed and carefully selected pieces of exotic woods for others. He experimented with different plane making methods along his life. Many of them have interesting and clever repairs made from items such as copper rivets which would be readily available to him. All of the planes I have from him are usable and extremely well made many which I use frequently along with my son who has a few also. Most of Ed’s planes are of the Razee type, typical of the shipbuilding trades. Also my favorite type to make and use. The low position of handle behind cutter places not only more downward force but also more effective pushing force directly behind cutter. It also allows for much easier use in awkward places such as planing overhead while standing on a scaffold as it is common in shipbuilding. Plane making has been also a big part of my life and it has been an honor and privilege to have inherited Ed’s planes from which I have learned much. Below are just a few kept handy from what I have from him. This incomplete plane is made from an incredibly dense , heavy ,and nasty piece of unknown exotic wood. It weighs 3Lbs as it is. This wood is so hard and grain so nasty that it took sheer determination to work on it. The difficulty in using such a nasty piece would have been rewarded with an extremely durable plane. Every worked surface was immediately sealed with an epoxy “wash” to seal it and preventing cracking. Even the tote mortise was temporarily filled with a plug. All an indication of the mastery and knowledge of the maker. Incomplete planes and carefully selected and saved blocks of assorted exotic woods for future planes, with ends sealed with wax and epoxy. Some have notes written on them regarding piece peculiarities to be taken into account when working on it. Block in front is 2-1/2”x2-1/2”x18” and it weight a little over 7 Lbs. Clever repairs on obviously favorite planes. Ed’s planes were work horses and not show ponies. Under plugs are copper rivets. This one was another method of plane making by cutting block in half, cutting the abutment and wedge slots and then gluing two halves back together. Easier and faster than chopping a solid block but prone to failure at joint due to the constant striking of block to adjust blade , reason why this one needed repairs. Obviously Ed was not impressed with this method for it is the only plane made this way. It did however seem to be one of his favorite workers due to the wear on it and the trouble of repairing it. It is made also from an unknown dense exotic wood and it weighs over 3Lbs. On the longer planes Ed would often laminate the bodies and handles out of different pieces. Business end of plane( bottom) is always a hard dense species. This method would make a more stable plane less prone to warping than one whole solid block. The laminated handle would also be more resistant to breaking when plane was dropped as it would normally happen when working off a scaffold. plane made out extremely dense Live Oak along with block for another one

Today I've been marshalling on the above rally at Carlisle airport. The weather turned out nice for a change. The entrants came from various countries in Europe, there was even some from the US, paying £6,000 for the privilege for the three day event. Cars are all pre WWII. Here are a few photo's for you. Enjoy. This Dutch couple had a bit of a problem.

These two haven’t left the shed since last October…pull start Mag 8 fired off in 7 pulls and ran perfect. The 867 fired off in like one revolution!! I was blown away! And she also ran perfect

I don't know why but im drawn to these ultra rare units that will likely never have value. Here is two others I'd love to own but are 5 hrs away . The first 3 wheel jalopy is only an hour away

Snow's almost gone! Should be able to shelf the plow for just a bit here.

Guess these are destoned to be a part of a Wheel Horse collector who has lost his marbles!

Hi everyone. A happy new owner of this very nice c100. Sitting in an air conditioned, it was lovingly cared for as if not used and tinkered on. The oil when check was water clear. Very odd. As if constant maintenance without really using it. Great price 300. I put a new drive to deck belt on it hit some grease nibs and off I went. Everything ran just great. Not that said I did notice a very little puffs of smoke and wondering if it's normal.

I'm feeling pretty good lately. Knock ✊ on 🪵. This morning Trina and I took a walk uphill on Green Mtn over in Freedom NH. Made decent time considering not having been hiking in a while. Here's a few pics...

I started a thread but managed to put it in the wrong place . I have picked up another wheelhorse , been playing today .

At the big show that's a " 2 case" job to keep all of the bystanders from giving you a hard time in the camping area.

Got the 416 with 5hp Peco vacuum ready for mowing duty. It takes a while to get the deck and the vacuum on but it’s worth it! I’m not sure what the vacuum was originally meant to mount on, but it certainly wasn’t a Wheel Horse! I fabricated a bracket that connects to the rear axle bracket, the axel and the rear hitch. ( probably should have taken a picture of that! ) I was thinking attaching spring loaded swiveling casters to the rear of the vacuum to share the weight of the clippings. When the buckets are full they are HEAVY. The addition of a factory front weight setup definitely helps with the steering. The weight was poached from an unspecified dealer in Connecticut 😜 it was in his basement.

Not sure if this is a “side shot” or a “top shot” or a “shot of Zach on his side” or “Zach on his back”…🤔 He is Sooooooo excited to be at the reassembly stage for Blackbeard😎

Going one step further back the set screw out completely. Pull the shifter and inspect the ball on the end for wear.

The new to me 414 …

Started to go through the 414 this evening. How refreshing to get a tractor that has actually been maintained! Interstate battery is only a couple months old. Trans fluid is full and clean like it’s brand new. Motor oil is full and just as clean as the transmission fluid. Air filter is like brand new. Shifter boot looks brand new…,and it goes on! Swapped out the rear wheels/tires to some nicer ones I had in stock. Checked all 4 hub set screws and NOT ONE WAS LOOSE?? Ok.. I did have to tighten up the rear brake band a bit .

..well I did have a 418 years ago but it wasnt here long. Been casually on the hunt for a 414 or 416-8 speed with a single Magnum for awhile. Never anything for sale that’s not a 5 plus hour drive one way. Well I know of a guy in the next town over with a couple and this morning I bumped into him at the local gas station. Said if you ever want to unload one let me know. Long story short he put a price on each one and said take your pick. I chose this 1989 414-8 and brought her home! Runs great, tranny goes thru all the gears, 42” SD deck is quiet. Obligatory pics :

Started right up today. No whirring! Probably gonna get the rebuild kit anyway. Motor redone 2 summers ago, trans this passed winter may as well do the S/G.

Here's a map of the circuit. They drive round cones in the shortest time they can. There are penalties for hitting or missing a cone or going the wrong way round one. I was watching the ones marked green.

These are unique, you can buy a new bottom plastic part and then you heat the small end in boiling water to soften it and you slide it over the brass and let it sit and it will harden backup. It’s odd but pretty easy really. There’s probably youtube vids on it.

Right! Or the popular milkshake color from cutting the viscosity with some H2O

I bought the 416-8. Paid $470. The guy that had the 312-8 hurt his back so I couldn’t look at it. Thinking about buying it too…. Maybe. Thanks for all your help. Now the fun begins: cleaning her up, buying two new inner tubes and getting the fuel system cleaned up, greasing the zirks, etc.

Like the title says. These two have been in my life since early 80’s.

May I recommend a set of custom decals from @Vinylguy I had him make me this set for the 416-8 I had. Loved how they looked. Nice pick up, enjoy it.

That wheel MAY be salvagable IF you did not ride on it that way too long.... The flanged ball bearings are readily available. @ebinmaine Eric brings up a very valid piont - IF the inner race(s) spun on the spindle.... the spindle might either need to be repaired, preferably replaced. All told, about a "two beer" job...

IMG_1221.mov

Should be able to use one like this.

Cool stuff Norm!!

If that's the case, those marbles originated in Wisconsin!

Cut loose with the cash and buy a new tube and fit it like was said above. If you don't, when Ray Nitschke buys that genny and the tube breaks again, he'll drive you to the turf like you were Fran Tarkenton!

Found this on Google. Check the foot board. There appears to be a name on it.

What is that clear stuff on the dipstick? I thought all of these machines had the mandatory black (original to the date of the tractor) sludge in the cases? Good solid looking tractor!

Wheel Horse sales buttons

I did something else today too. Since my 310-8 got upgraded to the 314-8, I decided to give it a heavier transmission while I'm upgrading. I have a couple spare 8-speeds, and the input shaft has been leaking on the original tranny for a while anyway. So I cleaned up one of my spares today. The gear oil was nasty, but had no water in it. I changed the axle seals as well. The hubs weren't horribly stuck, but it took a while to remove them. The hitch pin was a royal pain, but it finally came out. Only thing I didn't have was an input shaft seal. And it's gonna need one for this tranny as well. Degreased the whole thing and primed it, then sprayed two coats of Rust-Oleum regal red on it. The case had some pitting on it, so it doesn't have a smooth finish, but it's good enough for a worker. I'll chase the hub threads tomorrow and get her ready to swap into the 314-8.

Well, fellas, I went to attach the roto tiller today, and as soon as I pulled out of the garage to position the tractor to back up to the tiller, I could feel that something was off. Did a walk-around and this is what I saw at the front wheel. I have never done a wheel hub fix/replacement/repair. I searched for a thread or wiki here that would help, but could not find one. I’d appreciate any thoughts/help/suggestions you can offer. Jim

You can save that wheel. Pop out both bearings. Find a socket that will just fit the hub on inside...tap it in if necessary... hold it there with a short extension. Gradually hammer around the perimeter... till the hub is bent back toward round. If necessary, do this again with a smaller socket, until a new 1-3/8 flanged axle bearing will tap firmly into place. I've done this a few times... As others have written... inspect the spindle shaft for damage... right where the inner wheel bearing rides on it.

Sooo Nice!!

But very very messy. Wear gloves that black carbon residue is hard to remove...

My bad. 1968 Lawn ranger

Looks like your wheel bearings have let go. At minimum you'll need a good used wheel for that side. To really dive in and replace everything (as you should) you'll want 2 good used wheels, preferably with good tires. That'll save you the work of mounting and dismounting. The actual job is pretty straightforward. Get a good jack under the frame near the front. The wheels are held on by one bolt each. CLEAN the spindle and inspect it carefully. Look for scoring on the spindle where that bad bearing was riding. Spindles are also a fairly easy repair. More nuts n bolts. While there inspect the tie rods. Now's the time to replace a worn tie rod too. No worries on level of difficulty. Pop it apart. Clean it up. Take more pics.

Problem solved. I should have taken pictures before I dissembled the instrument panel, shift plate and the panel below the battery tray. I had to remove the fuse block to do this. What I failed to notice is the previous hero installed a jumper in the 15amp fuse position. I moved the tractor outside where the light is better and the jumper was on the shed floor. Sow i inst6alled a new 25 and 15amp fuse and all is good. The previous owner disabled all the safety switches and over the past 2 years I have been replacing them with new. All I have left is the the seat switch. Thanks for the input. I learnd a few things.

Any thing I do will be by hand. I don’t trust myself with a wheel

Got it working.Combination of things. Chain was in the wrong slot on the shaft. Chain was probably not the correct length. Thanks fellas, I love this tractor…..

It goes under the shroud back further, there should be two hose clamps bolted on it at about 4 & 8 o'clock.

I'm planning on at least going to Zagray on Sunday this year, hope to meet some members there. Expect to see these parked on the grounds or cruisin around.

Some people flip every other pinion, effectively locking the differential…

Grinding sounds = bad bearings or brushes. Weak starting capabilities = bad brushes, damaged commutator, or weak brush springs Won't spin at all = bad brushes, bad commutator, damages windings. Won't charge = bad regulator. Other issues can arise. What is your S/G doing?