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Hi all. Since I brought up the RV ing/ hiking post? I thought. I never posted pics of my ride. It is a 1988 Coachmen Leprechaun. 28' Class C motorhome. I bought it last year with 12,000 one owner miles. It never sat outside unless it was being used. Lets see other units. Campers, trailers, motorhomes and such. Enjoy.

Embrace the patina look !

They use their zoomies headers for downforce. Hey, so does Putt Putt! They average 1,375 hp per cylinder. On an average 8 hour day’s work added up, so does Putt Putt! They run about 15 gallons of fuel out in 1/4 mile. If Putt Putt plowed a 1/4 mile square field, he would go through about 12.5 gallons, approximately. Putt Putt is practically a top fuel dragster. But more efficient.

Little pieces usually painted assembled, unless I have to take them apart for some other reason. Big pieces like sheet metal always painted separately. And if I have to take some part off for repair, I almost always repaint it, or at least clean it, before putting it back on.

Having painted 6 horses over 13 years, I have mixed feelings. Not being a professional painter, I try to keep it as simple as possible. I have always painted the hood and fenders and things like that separate, and little pieces the same way. Then I assemble everything but have found that during the assembly process, the paint always gets nicked, chipped and scratched no matter how hard I try. Going back and touching up is tedious, and never looks the same as before the damage.

A couple of years ago my brothers and I had to clean out my parents' farm of 44 years. Three dumpsters worth of stuff not worth the effort to try and sell. Made me think and I am now off loading items we don't use and refuse to accumulate any more. My kids didn't want their grandparents stuff and will not want ours. If something happens to me I don't want my wife to have to deal with tools and equipment that I rarely used so I started selling off the bigger items. Moral of the story - as we get older is adding more stuff that we most likely will never use worth. If I really need something I'll buy it. Basement is starting to look cleaner as a result.

Turning radius. I am pretty much a purist when it comes to my horses, but my 14 year old grandson who is helping with this one asked if there was any way to make it steer better.

I am asking for help! I came across this wheel horse c-120 automatic. For some reason it was crying out please restore me. So I got it for $100. I know nothing about it I have some numbers that I took pictures of that I will upload. Any information no matter how small that you could give me I would very deeply appreciate it. Thanks for your time.

As you begin your C-120 journey please ask any questions you have before diving in. We have all made a few mistakes in our time and if we can save you some problems that is what we are all about. As @Sailman said, begin by seeing if the engine will run, if it won't we can help you troubleshoot it. Once it is running you can see if the transaxle has any issues and evaluate other functions. Buy lots of penetrating oil and use it liberally. Liquid Wrench, PB Blaster and KR Oil are good ones. As the disassembly begins take photos before and during the process. Put all the fasteners and small parts in zip lock bags along with notes you make about the process and the photo numbers.

They do that. I've seen it happen. to the madness. Have fun. Take it apart. If you can tell the two ends of a wrench apart you'll be fine.

I like your math...

That's because it's hot over there and Egyptians think wearing Cowboy Boots with Cargo Shorts looks weird!

Very interesting just the same... https://www.enginebuildermag.com/2023/03/top-fuel-and-funny-car-engines/

Not an original. Maybe came off an old Ford garden tractor?

A look through this section may give you even more inspiration. https://www.wheelhorseforum.com/forum/45-restorations-modifications-customizations/

On the scientific / technical terms I gotta side with Bob on this. Patina is actually a protective coating that forms/grows on non-ferrous metals such as copper, bronze, or brass. This coating actually helps to protect the underlying metal. Rust is the oxidization of ferrous metals that happens as they start to break down. I appreciate the rust look on some tractors as well as I appreciate pretty paint. NOW - back on subject. Paint together or apart in my mind depends on the purpose of the tractor. I would have no problem painting a worker while it is mostly assembled. On a resto I want to clean, inspect, and paint each piece individually. As we know most resto's end up having a better paint job than the factory ever dreamed of.

Sorry Bob I gotta side with 'Fish on this one. Case in point @Achto's rat.

Either a 12V DEE-TROIT truck engine or how bout a couple 6V's pushin some dirt!

There are always a few who can give a tractor a professional paint job. The rest of us have to do the best we can and don't worry about it. It don't have to be perfect to look nice.

Welcome to the forum. Here is everything we have for the 61-12KS01 https://www.wheelhorseforum.com/search/?q=61-12ks01&quick=1&type=downloads_file

You do realize a 1/4 mile square field is a heck of a lot more area than a 1/4 mile drag run right? If Shirley Cha Cha Muldowney ran her dragster at full throttle and covered a 1/4 mile field it would take about 16 passes and use about 240 gal of nitro/alcohol mix. ( Also about 16 blocks, 16 cranks and 128 pistons and rods!)

I'm looking for the manuals. I was hoping someone would tell me where I could download some free ones. I do not know if the motor runs. I've never took on a big restoration like this but as I said for some reason it just called out for me to restore it.

I like the satisfaction of knowing that paint is covering every possible surface. for painting it Johnny Cash style, one piece at a time.

Uhm... ask BBT to add some weight to it and an excavator arm... she should have it done by dinner if she doesn't break for lunch... Or, give it to @Pullstart for a another mobile chicken coop...

Well, today was the day see what all my engine changes did for me. First of all, I wanted to see how the engine turned over with just one belt. The belt us just tight enough to turn the engine without slipping. After this picture, I move the belt to the inner pulley thinking it would put less strain on the starter bearing. I hooked up a temporary fuel tank, primed the carburetor, and applied power to the starter. The engine turned over without effort (as I expected it to), and ran like a top. So, I don't know what if anything I accomplished by installing the ACR cam other than proving that it's easy, allows you to do static timing, and saves one V-belt.

This past week or so I started the mechanical work of a 655 that I have plans to restore. Surprisingly not many issues have arose but the few that have, have been swiftly taken cafe of until today where it was discovered that there is magneto issues and the whole thing is likely damaged. So now I must spend some time tracking down a new one. if anyone knows of a good place to find one any source would be appreciated. I was very busy this past week so I didnt get much time to post about this but i should post more in the coming week. This will also be my first full restoration with high quality paint and materials.

Now i have heard of a painted horse before but maybe Sylvia & Don should have a coffee klutch on the finer points of using a paint roller on a .

Lol Richard... what was that about rust not being a patina? Question is here Bob what's the easiest thing, or right thing, to do to coach your boy on? Talk to him on it. His 701 give him the reins. Is he willing (or you) to do the parts separately? Does he want a show room piece or just something to have fun on? Rattle can or gun? We know you have some HF cheapys which would be fine. You want to teach him the unfiner points of a gun go for it with a partial tractor. Short story get him involved.

You need a #235207 pulley

At some point 8 hp repeating will easily beat 1375x8 cylinders. I’m no math whiz, but I bet it would be around the one thousand three hundred seventy sixth suck squeeze bang blow.

Start by reading the manuals and understanding the basic operation of it. Does it start, run & drive? If you disassemble it take plenty of pictures. Have you restored tractors before?

Rocker panels are soft enough that it would be a disturbingly easy conversion.

Memories that Mom may have.

Compression release every time. The 2 piece Spark Advance cam is a pain to install

None of my older engines (953 and 1055) have the ACR cam but the spark advance cam works well if the timing is right on the money. If it is too far advanced (gap to large) it kicks back. If it is retarded (gap too tight) starting is easy but no power.

No, but the slaves who built the pyramids wore sandals!

Field Car...

Go with a pair of NEW adjustable tie rods - no slop or lost motion, and takes the "exactness" out of what @wallfish mentioned - and allows getting a good wheel alignment. 3X winner......

It’s getting fuel, I changed all the fuel line and filter, also pulled the pump as I had trouble with that before, thanks for your input though 👍🏻

I do have an affection for the early round hoods so major modifications should be kept to a minimum IMO Cut and weld on everything else. (And just for the record, I've never even parted out a decent roller no matter what the year. I'll build those back and spend more money on parts to do it then the whole tractor is worth. The stuff for the custom builds is mostly spare or damaged parts hanging around that was picked up over the years. Shopping at the big show is fun! Problem is the krap hangs around for years before finding it's way on to something. )

We would get lost! Are there Dollar Generals in Egypt?

The ACR cam is a God send Bob. Of all my tractors two don't have it. A 1045 and a 1055. If I told you to take one for a tool you wouldn't be able to start either without knowing the tricks. They lock right up on compression and no matter how tight that SG belt is the SG stalls out. This is when we see smoke coming out of an orginal type 70 Amp ig switch. A sure sign to lay off on it. One has to lay off the switch and the motor rolls backwards a tad. Then you hit the key again and they pop off. Of course this all changes if the motor is cold or hot and you are intimate with the carb settings.

Hey Mike, it’s direct via lovejoy. I built the pump cage because the belt drive failed…here’s my entire build…My 310-8

The ignition timing was retarded at .012. The ignition took place after the piston reached TDC which made starting easy but lacked power. Glad you figured it out.

They sell them in OHSA, Wisconsin... I think @Achto and @WHX?? are dealers...

I decided to test this voltage regulator I had from a Kawasaki on the Onan. So far it's working great. Put out 14.25 VDC regardless of engine speed. I have to make a better mounting plate to seal off the opening. I will post pictures when done.

If you place the body of a inexpensive Harmonic Balancer puller between the hub and plate then use the drive bolt furnished with it you will have several inches of working range.

I think he fell off his flip flops and swallowed a rhinestone. He is hoping a diamond will appear.