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Im new here , but not new to garden tractors. My 318 is well optioned/ upgraded. It is original paint, original Onan P218 (now with P220 cam and carb), deluxe seat suspension, H3 (triple hydraulics), rear hydraulics, rear 2000 pto, 3 point, 2 speed/ diff lock, larger wheels/ tires, ect. The 332 has been upgraded with 2 speed/ diff lock, deluxe seat suspension, rear hydraulics, 3 point, larger wheels/ tires, ect. Have I mentioned that I like to plow?🤣

My big brother always teased me that I’m adopted. I think I found where I came from. I love the safety flip flops @elcamino/wheelhorse!

They sell them in OHSA, Wisconsin... I think @Achto and @WHX?? are dealers...

Ready to rumble!

The jack and tire irons Cut off some of those wire connectors both sides. They come in handy when building stuff that needs wires Electric seat and window motors come in handy too.

Save the coins under the seat. When I was a kid we would go junkyarding looking for coins and other things left in cars

Welcome!!! Bolt should look like these. Note how the unthreaded shoulder slightly protrudes from the hub. That lets you get the bolt really tight and let the wheel still spin freely

Thanks Thanks Both plows were built by Glenn Peterson, the pull type is styled after a Deere 44H plow. It is fully adjustable just like the big plows. Uses 10” Brinly moldboards. Hydraulic lift. The D was at a show in Edgar, WI. I just happened to setup next to it. The owner was very nice. I did see the “D” plow day on fb, cool watching them plow. Some closer pics of the plow.

This will remove a whole aircraft!

63 started with the newer type axles. They are thicker at the pin and wider wheel track. Anything can be retrofitted with a sparkling magic wand (welder) 701/702s don't have a very tight steering radius. If that's the reason, personally I would look into extending the steering arm section where the tie rods connect under the tractor. Tie rods connected further from the shaft will produce a longer throw and pull which will increase the angle of the wheels. (Just can't remember if they hit the stops already or not.) Plus you can probably just bolt on so it can easily be swapped back to factory. I haven't had one of those tractors for a while to know for sure but here's the idea

The other day I was watching a show about installing an ancient statue of a Pharaoh in Egypt. The workers were using I beams to hold the pieces together and to get it back in place in front of a temple. Any way a whole of bunch of workers running around during the install. Most in sandals, panned over to a guy in shorts and no shoes with a stick welder. Sparks flying and I thought of the flip flop kid.

I’m new to Wheel Horse, from SE WI. I just acquired a 1960 Suburban 550 (running and driving). Looking to learn more about these and see what accessories and attachments were available.

Keep a couple doors just in case it gets hot out,,, you can roll ‘em down!

Maintenance day!

I took off the rest that needed to be taken off and my dad helped me separate the frame and transmission. Now me need to put some paint stripper and get off as much paint as possible.

Holy crap 'Fish ... you just threw my purist affliction out the window....

I’m not sure if that is already negotiated, but often times here, a cat is worth as much or more than the whole vehicle. It’s generally WELL WORTH the effort to crawl under and cut it off - even if you are taking them both to the same salvage facility.

Just thought I’d follow up on the snowblower project. Got it all back together and a fresh coat of paint. New bearings, new idler sprockets, new chain sprocket, new tensioner pulleys and a new belt. I think it is now ready to install on the tractor and see how it runs.

Definitely keep the plates, they make excellent shop decorations!

Welcome aboard, fellow Phoenixville-ian! Peter and Paul have you on the right track, do your wheels look like the ones in Paul's photo? There should be a lock nut or something similar on the threaded end. Let me know if you don't get it straightened out, I may be able to come by and take a look.

Fuses & relays, head & brake light bulbs.

I wonder how it would be to list the car as a parts car on facebook marketplace or Craigslist? I had to purchase the power seat adjuster unit for a 2007 Explorer and it's $250 delivered to my house from Ebay. Mom went to the local dealership and they told her $1,500.00 parts and labor--if they could find a used one. It's about less than a 2 hour job to remove seat and swap our power seat adjuster. Might be some poor soul needing parts.

Those look pretty dang tough!

Often the gasket can be saved. You can buy a cheap kit online so that you will have the gasket, but beware that some of the gaskets and parts may be junk. I have had problems with needles and intake gaskets in cheap kits but the bowl gaskets were OK. Check to see if the Welch plug, just above the idle mixture screw, is in place.

Last week Tuesday we took off on a trip to New Orleans. The high school robotics team I mentor had a competition there that started Thursday and finished up Saturday. My wife and I drove 'cause we didn't want to do a 12 hour buss ride with the team. Good choice on our part. The AC on the bus quit and they had a tire blow out. They left at something like 3am and finally got into New Orleans around 9 pm. The team did well at the meet. Ended up seated #1 after the qualification rounds, lost in the 2nd round of the double elimination playoffs. That put us in the lower bracket where a loss would send us home. We sent the #5 alliance home, the #2 alliance, who had lost in the same round we did sent the #6 alliance home, #3 alliance sent the #4 alliance packing and advanced to the finals. The next round was us against the #2 alliance. We won that match by one point, eliminating the #2 alliance. We then beat the #3 alliance in the final round, which was a best of 3 matches. Used all 3 matches, lost the first, won the 2nd and 3rd. We took the long route, but we won the meet. As of tonight, the team is ranked 23rd out of the 3,200 or so teams world wide. My wife and I took three days to travel home, avoiding the interstates. We drove the 20 mile long bridge over Lake Ponchitrain on our way there and the causeway over the eastern end of the lake, through the biyous on the way home. Stopped at a senic overlook/boat ramp and saw 2 alligators in the water. When we got to Baton Rouge, we stopped at the Bluebonnet swamp nature preserve. Ended up in Natchez, Miss. Sunday night. Made our way up just north of Little Rock, Ak. on Monday. Today, we made it to our mid Mo. winter location. Was a pleasant drive through the Boston Mountains in northern Ak. Interesting vehicles sighted in fields along the way include a notchback Vega, a Chevy Citation, Linclon Zephyer, a mid 50's Ford 2 door wagon, an early 60's International Tavelall, and numerous '57 to '60 GM pickups. There was also an extended frame A/C tractor with a belly blade - kind of a mini road grader arrangement.

To add to the above A bad condenser or loose connections to it will allow them to idle but not increase rpm.

I do have an affection for the early round hoods so major modifications should be kept to a minimum IMO Cut and weld on everything else. (And just for the record, I've never even parted out a decent roller no matter what the year. I'll build those back and spend more money on parts to do it then the whole tractor is worth. The stuff for the custom builds is mostly spare or damaged parts hanging around that was picked up over the years. Shopping at the big show is fun! Problem is the krap hangs around for years before finding it's way on to something. )

Hey Mike, it’s direct via lovejoy. I built the pump cage because the belt drive failed…here’s my entire build…My 310-8

This tractor and blower actually belongs to member @zekepiks He and I did the tractor first then the blower thanks to some assistance from Dave Mercer from Middlebury IN. zekepicks is giving it to his daughter in Wisconsin. I think it might still be snowing up there so we better hurry and get it delivered.

Right there is the answer, if you use a washer there it must have a hole that is the same size as the threads. A used deck can have cheap lawn mower wheels that are too light duty for your deck, so check that. Wheel Horse wheels usually have a grease fitting, pump grease in there often till it comes out at the axle.

The relays can be used on horses. The rest junk it. This reminds me of a story. When I met my wife her brother was into buying and selling cheap cars without being a dealer. He gave her a 78 Plymouth Volare to drive with the anemic slant 6. She blew up the engine on the way to Cornell Vet hospital with her dog. She had to call a cab and the cabbie said the dog was cleaner then some of his other fares! Well her brother wanted to salvage what he could off of the car so we rode down in his girl friend's 76 Chevy Step Side PU. He loaded the hood ,trunk lid, all 4 doors all the tires and seats into that truck. We looked like the Beverly Hillbillies going down the road. Of course he stored the parts at his Mother's house and there they stayed for like 5 years until she died. Then he still wanted to keep everything but his girl friend said no way! ( when we cleaned out his mother's house I must have found 10 sets of used 60's Chevy spark plugs in cabinets. The Big plugs that took a 13/16 socket! )

Thanks to all for the help! I'll do some checking to make sure I have the right axels for the wheels. I've grown up with nothing but Wheel Horses, but this deck came via second/third hand folks, so I have no clue if things were parted out. From putting the wheel back on (mid-mow) yesterday, things look right, but I'll have to do some double checking either tonight or at week's end. The wheels are in OK shape, not brand new, but in good shape. One question, and I apologize if it is a stupid one. Are you supposed to use a washer with the axel bolt (on the outer side of the wheel)? The deck wheels had them, so I've always just put them back on, but am wondering if that shortens it enough that it makes it too snug to spin. @tunahead72 I have to say I'm surprised to find anyone from Phoenixville on there. Small world!

Today I got a new starter on my tractor, but found at that my starter solenoid is screwed up, and that my throttle is laggy. Got it running for the first time in a few months by bypassing the solenoid with a screwdriver though.

Definitely save fuses an relays. You can always find a use for 5 pin relays

@BHpahttps://www.bing.com/search?q=wheel+horse+lawn+mower+wheels+%2C+axel+bolts&qs=n&form=QBRE&sp=-1&lq=0&pq=wheel+horse+lawn+mower+wheels+% first thought , do you have the correct axels on those wheels ? the shoulder area , is designed to allow the wheel spin , while the thread area is separate and inside the deck . also what condition are the wheels ?

It's a rotted out 2008 Pontiac, just do the world a favor and send it the crusher. It's really not worth your time or effort to save little things that will never be used

Famous last words here!

Oh yeah, .008” off could easily make it sluggish!

It sure keeps the bolts easy to get out. It's all looking really good.

Nice machines. Tell us more about the pull behind 2 bottom plow. Nice D in the background of the first image, 2nd post. I seen a youtube video from a few months back where there was a plow day that just had D's, about 40 of them, that was plowing. The D, if I remember correctly, was made for 30 years or something like that.

Very nice original 550. Not only has the Tillotson carb, but the shield over it as well. Where is the starter solenoid located on it? Can you take a pic?

Off topic here. The guy nailing on siding kept randomly tossing nails away. The boss asked "Why?" "The head is on the wrong end." Boss said "They are for the other side of the house!"

Presuming the engine in question is a Kohler with battery ignition type and has ignition points you should clean the points by running a brown paper bag between them while they are closed. Your ignition timing is adjusted by your ignition points, if the gap on the points is nor correct the timing will be off and it will not operate properly. The Kohler Service Manual on this site has ignition timing information.

I was looking at the clothes, shoes etc. then I see the tag is on the wrench!!! I'm gonna try that with sandpaper... see how it goes...

@wallfish Awhile ago I bought a 7/8 reamer and set it aside for usage next time we needed to repair and bush an axle. Today was the day. Millie was the lucky guinea pig. I started by having Trina hold the frame while I drilled the front. That was... Cumbersome for both of us. For the rest of the front frame hole I set the frame in the vise. Then for the back one I stood the frame up and clamped it to the bench. Hand holding the drill was very challenging so to drill the axle I decided to use the drill press. Trina sprayed oil at intervals while we combined forces to hold the axle and run the drill. Went very well. In addition to that I put the four new seals in the transmission and Trina got that all degreased. A wash with acetone and it'll be ready for paint. Trina also made up a little link rod for the governor to carb. She "sourced" the wire from some construction marking flags I'd bought for the barn project last year. Cutty pasty and a Z bender. Done!

Good but of work done today. Engine is mostly together. Transmission is almost ready!