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Hopefully I am done plowing snow for this year so I decided to clean up the plow tractor. It has a slow hydraulic leak, not enough to actually drip on the floor but the machine looked terrible underneath the tin work. I replaced the O rings on all the hydraulic hoses and in the control valve itself. Then a lot of the tin was removed and tractor got a good de-greasing and washing. It was up to a balmy 37 degrees F. so a nice day to get the hose out. Looks much better now. I let it dry then installed the fender and seat. Rest of the covers will get installed after a good dry-out period. I will also give it time to show any more leaks.

So this started as a different project but as happens often it turned into something else. It will be made from as many WH parts as possible so finding the right parts for a purpose kinda slows things a little. It's still in the building stages but there's enough there to roll and mock up for pics to give an idea what going on. It's getting tougher and tougher to come up with something new that hasn't already been done. Same torque converter drive as the other bike but this one will be chain driven instead of a belt. Split suburban axles for the front suspension with suburban lift handles for rear swing arm suspension, so it should ride a bit smoother than the rigid bike does. Hoping to have done for a local show or 2 before the big show to work out any kinks

Figured you old geezers would need a stable ride so.... Here ya go! I'd imagine a lot more people would actually take this one for a lap or lap or 2 compared to the 2 wheeler. Dick, I'll hold you cane to make sure you come back!

The engine oil dipstick should be removed, wiped clean and the inserted in the threaded hole but not threaded in. Remove the dipstick and read the oil level.

Show Off ! But some of us can still lift a blade manually

Not the visuals again @SylvanLakeWH will send out the po po

Getting old AIN"T for sissies!

Yes the B-80 headlights are on also.. just isn’t the brightest setup

Am I glad I have all foot controlled hydros. Full forward to full reverse with a wiggle of my big toe.

There are a few ways to help the hydro lock issue including a service bulletin from the early 60's stating that switching to 40w lube will minimize it. It likely did but the flats solved that issue. As far as locking in two gears they finally came up with a solution addressed in service bulletin #60 in 1965. Note the interchangeable newer shift rails on the left compared to the older style on the right. The longer stop pin was key to this working. The first 'newer' style rails just had a deeper neutral detent. I'm guessing a change in the manufacturing process was the reason they started milling the entire circumference. It doesn't matter because the rails only slide side to side and not around. I wish I had a newer set of rails to send you but all I have left are the older style.

My issue on a 654 doing that lock up was solved by changing the shifter to one that wasn't worn flat on the sides. That one gets some pretty quick shifting from 2nd/3rd to reverse when plowing snow and would lock up every once in a while. You could also weld it up and grind/file to just a little bit bigger ball. It doesn't necessarily need to be perfectly round either, just smooth nice curves on the 2 sides. This prevents the ball from fitting between the 2 forks as them move allowing them to go into lock mode.

If you're gonna go that far you'd be best just to find a couple of updated shift rails with the deeper neutral detent and the 3/4" stop pin.

Check with Steve, I believe he did it with a long 1/8" allen reaching in from the front. I'm not sure there's room for a socket. I just don't recall which model it was. You'll be able to get to the lock nut from above and you'll be able to align the forks as well.

Gonna need a suspenders guard on it!

John, will there be a cane holder for those of us who are a bit walking challenged?

Even us old wobbly guys may be able to keep a 3 wheeler upright. Watcha ya think Waldo, ya up for a spin around the infield?

I bought a small trailered DR power wood chipper that had a Briggs and Stratton 8hp. WhenI bought it I knew it wasn’t running, motor rolled over fine and didn’t pay to much attention to it. I figured I have fixed lots of small engines , shouldn’t be a problem. Got it home and realized it rolled over a little too easy . It has a Grenaded piston rod . I can possibly rebuild it but was thinking I can make an adapter plate to mount to the front of my tractor and run it off the pto . What are your opinions?

Update on the 856 it had a raider 10 HH100 now I swapped to a Pennsylvania Panzer HH100 had a larger pulley and some blocks to make it look bigger the other engine also lost spark and this has points so it’ll last way longer than that crap design solid state igniton I don’t know who thought it was a good idea to make solid state ignition but I ever met the guy I’d prob strangle him half to death

This 520-H has been gone for 21 years but the cab and blower are still here as is the 312-8. Friend I sold it to still owns it.

Everyone needs a foot controlled hydro with a heated cab for snow removal. It just takes some longer to realize this. Welcome to the old wise guys club John.

Started taking it apart one pices at a time

Hhhmmm ... Mrs Sylvan uses that exact phrase sometimes when she mentions me in polite company...

Well guys, apparently that helps but there's really no mechanical reason the typical wear on the shifter would be the real issue. I'll stick with the fix it right mechanically with the correct parts. Once it's done it's done.

This followed us home the other night. Not sure what our plan is for it just yet. It’s pretty low on our list of things to work on at the moment but the guy wanted it out of his yard. But it will get fixed up some day. We got the hood but it’s been hacked and adapted to fit that engine. Unsure of the exact model tractor since I’ve Never owned a lawn ranger before.

Rear wheels installed. Front end alignment complete. This is how tractor looks as of today.

Early 60s round hood. Only 2 bolts hold the spring and fenders on the top of the trans. Are you get'n lazy in retirement?

I trade a 633 for this 753 needs some loving care but it does run good and third gear is out and the gas tank one of the bolt holes is broken out

I know I'm half a year ahead of schedule! I picked this 1974 D-180 up early last year. It had a pretty hard life, and the previous owner gave his best attempt at keeping it alive. Hydro was strong so I serviced it and put it to work mowing all year. I decided if it would make it through the season then it would get some TLC. By fall it was burning about a quart of oil an hour but it made it. I have no clue how many hours are on it, every hole, bushing, bearing on this tractor is pooched. If you look closely, somebody used two 1" NPT Pipe Flanges to rebuild the mounting points for the upper 3 point cylinder. Hey it works! I rebuilt the steering gearbox and re-bushed the front axle along with making new spindles. I had the 482 Kohler bored .20 over (it was .10 over already) and gave it a rebuild with the intention of putting it back to work on snow duty. I then dawned on me that this tractor will be 50 years old next year - and these old D's are becoming harder and harder to find anymore. So I decided to customize it a bit and go for what a maybe a dealership would offer for a 50th anniversary model if Wheel Horse was still in business today (In another universe, maybe!) As D's aren't known for their looks - and I can't leave anything alone. I took approximately 2 Inches out of the grille and bezel. I updated most of the wiring and lights. Gave it a new set of Carlisle Ags along with Vredestein front ribs. It got a new seat and I painted all the accents aluminum. I patched, rebuilt the 48" deck and put new blades, wheels, and hardware on it. The Blade & 3 point scoop somebody adapted to it also got some attention. Lastly I stripped it most of the way down and painted it with IH red acrylic urethane enamel. I always forget to take pictures during my projects but here's a few: Before: After: Thanks for reading!!

When I bought the 91 520- H I figured I didn't need 2 0f them along with 2 312-8 so i sold the 93 pictured with a 42''RD deck. Them some years later sold the 86 312-8 to the same person who bought the 93 with a 42 RD deck and front dozer blade. I was at a wake 3 weeks ago in Mass and another friend of mine who I hadn't seen in 4 years or so told me he ended up with my 86 312-8. That goes to show you how long these WH tractors last when properly maintained. @c-series don Thanks for the compliment Don, yes that 93 was a great tractor. The one blowing that deep snow is the 91 that's here in Maine.

Yea…she’s missing some parts for this “side shot”, dang shifter came right outa the tranny! That’s a first for me, but with a little schooling from my neighbor she’s all back together again

I recently did the same thing and fought with the tine removal. I found that the best way to remove them was heat and then immediately put the tiller to work in some hard ground, it worked! It took a while but it worked.Once the shaft was spinning on the tines,which was evident because everything else was turning except the tines I kept using it and making turns they eventually fell off the shaft.

Good deal Chris. He's already got a fist full of 3rd gears Bill ... came across the mother load on fleabay once I think he told us. Think it's gonna need axle tube bearings though. It's in good hands.

Hi John !!! I have used the horses moving snow when I was working, so I know how you feel. I worked outside at the time, so I was kind of used to it. BTW, I also loved to sit on the ice watching a tip-up all day. I am seeing myself getting used to the heat of the inside lately since retirement. I kind of liked it when I was a hearty individual better...I am starting to feel like a woose!!

Got the motor and the wiring off start working on getting off the front pices that someone put on it and look at the steering system

I'm thinking / guessing the mechanical reason for the wear being a problem might be if the shifter and or forks are worn enough it doesn't always move the fork as far as it's supposed to and all the way into neutral so it's more likely to suck back and lock it. Slower shifting like Steve said does work as that's the easiest solution and only ever locked them when quick shifting. But freezing the nuts off for any additional seat time is something I'm definitely not interested in enjoying at all! LoL Get it done as quickly as possible is the mission here because I have to get to work or finish the work day. You retired guys don't need to worry about time. Maybe some day

This usually happens while blading snow. If you are taking the time to enjoy the fact that you are not behind a shovel, then you can also enjoy the time it takes to shift slow when removing snow...especially the fluffy white stuff you guys get in Wisconsin.

Took the slow blade off the C-105... Jinx!!! Ready for the big snow now...

Everytime I see the seat arms up like that I think GOOOOOAAAAAALLL!!!!!!!

Well done so far John.... Said to myself "Self, at least he doesn't have to check the "F" plate for cracks"....

Power King T-92 transmissions have the same problem. Ball gets worn down than shifter jams in a couple of gears at once. Welding and reshaping fixes it.

Sorta like I did to my 953 to get the gas tank out.

Good point John. Uncle Jim, with the help from your lead mechanic in Red Granite, you might as well tear the trans down and grind the flat in your shift rails so you don’t have the same issue with hydro lock.

Thanks for keeping us in your thoughts John!

It's difficult to make one of those black hoods look good But I always liked the lines of that top section You gotta ride'm both

I think were FINALLY there! I want to do one more set with the horizontal layer(rotated 45) But these look pretty good I think.and these at only a slight increase in thickness feel a bit more rigid to me. Mounting should still be done with Glenn Pettits good advice...rubber washers, finger tight, with a dab of locktight on each screw. I think over tightening contributes to the failure of a lot of these dashes.

Love the Hood!!!

Gonna take tonight off from the print lab. Tomorrow, hitting the road to go visit the Roadapples estate and pick up his c-160 auto and bring it back to it's new home. Some 3d printed accessories will be in the works to honor Jay and the critter will be appropriately named " 'Apples".

Well well!! they say you cant teach an old dog new tricks ............. but this old dog never knew that about threaded dips not being threaded in for a reading!!