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I'd say this picture tells you all you need to know about whether the paint is original. White overspray on the ID tag, which is aluminum so it won't rust. Notice if you look close, the black print of the ID is visible in the top left corner. I'd also bet if you drill those rivets and pull off the tag you'll find a bright red rectangle.

The opposite challenge with hubs is you want them tight, real tight. That and there not something one pulls for routine maintenance. I reinstall with a slight film of anti-seize if/when I ever pull one. but some people recommend to not even use any anti-seize with the argument that you want them to rust tight. Besides, pulling Wheelhorse hubs is one of the WH rights of passage! PS. While WH hubs can be a challenge to pull, the JD green machines have splined hubs and then there's the larger Power King/Economy hubs that make WH hubs seem easy. On the JD 110 they just recommends you use a tapered wedge to shear the snap ring inside the differential and take them to a press. Then of course you rebuilt the whole transmission. Power King/Economy recommends you disassemble the gearbox and remove the gear and shaft from the inside, just to replace a seal.

Parts vs new starter can be a rough call. Example : A new starter drive for my M18 from Kohler is around $130. A complete aftermarket starter motor with the drive already on it can be had for around $60. I like to stay OEM but when I can buy 2 complete starters for less than the part to fix my original starter. It makes it hard to justify fixing the old starter.

My dad was a blacksmith and loved the 953/1054 Wheel Horse tractors. He had several. He made three drawbar hitched for out tractors that would attach on back of the snowplow bracket. These were steel pieces hammered out on a power hammer and anvil. Three or more holes in the back of the drawbar that was made like the International Farmall tractors had. The standard slot hitch could remain on the tractor and be used with implements like a garden plow, cultivator, etc.

Going to treat the lawn today with Scott’s Weed and Feed before tonight’s rainfall! Using my 1975 B-80 and my Stryker spreader.

Rebuilt a K341 carb after work, bagged it & tagged it.

Another trick is to use left handed drill bits when drilling a bolt. A left handed drill bit cuts with counterclockwise rotation - bolt loosening direction. The heat from the drilling and the reverse rotation will sometimes break the stuck bolt loose. Good luck.

Most certainly they did ... the pics of mine and Dan's are orginal. We just combined a slot with a drawbar which is perfectly acceptable as orginal on your '66. Dealer options in the day you understand. We all can appreciate that. We just wish @ebinmaine would incorporate orginal into his vocabulary...

875 is a candidate for a bucket lister ... first year for Wheelamatic. Personally I would go 150 on it maybe a tad more if the parts are Kohler. No way would I resto it ... way too much character goin on ther. Not really KP I have alot of them come thru like that. Looks somewhat factory suggesting a hood swap? Maybe not. Stick around we could use you... Thanks for posting we really enjoy yakking about that kind of tractor.

Remind me never to play scrabble with EB. If it makes you feel better thinking the previous owner KNOWS it came from the factory with white paint I'm not not going to burst your bubble. I wasn't there to confirm or deny what they said. You may want to have them give you a notarized certificate of authenticity that states it left the factory in white paint. That won't convince anyone but it would be a great conversation point.

They already purchased what was needed for rebuild and I am a small engine mechanic.

Found the id tag

Hood is 65-69 Decal was not available until 1970 Looks to be a hydro but no park brake lever on the center counsel. = "65-"66 Looks like a short frame = small block engine. 8hp Kohler on the hydro's Never seen a white from the factory. I say 875 if i's a '65 or 876 if it's a '66

Screamin deal is right. Shopping for tires for Aunt B and I run across a pair of Dees in 23x8.50- 12s for 57 clams shipped from a reputable seller. I couldn't believe the price and show the ad to Dan to make sure I am reading the writeup right. He says yep and I pull the trigger. Then I share the ad with Kev. He eagle eyes the pic and notices it says 16" size on it. Oh oh ... now what are we gonna get. I was gonna pull the trigger on some more and pass the deal forward but decided to wait until they were on the porch for inspection. Right size but totally different tread pattern than in the listing. Go back to order more and now listed at 189 bucks a set shipped. Crap oh well must have been a goof up when seller first listed. Wonder if one of the seller's employees got a butt reaming. 🤔

And read the product details instead of the pictures @WHX??…. Uncle Jim recently got a screamin’ deal on some ag tires on eBay but the pictures and descriptions were totally different from each other! He still won, but it was like a lottery waiting for the package to come. We were taking bets on tread design, and whether they were going to be for a GT or a walk behind snow blower!

Agreed, but do read the product reviews first.....

I cringe every time I read a post that involves previous owner wiring. First step should be to clean and tighten all electrical connections including grounds. Many of these connections are near the battery and have been subjected to acid fumes for three decades when the battery is charging. Best bet is to use the diagram to verify what is correct and mark those wires with some masking tape so you know it doesn't need further study. Download the color copy of the wiring demassification guide for your tractor and look at each function identifying the wires that may be in question. @gwest_ca has the wiring diagram for each circuit color coded for us, thanks Garry. Make some notes about the functions that are not working and study the page that covers that function. Good luck and let us know what you find.

Does anyone know of a factory white wheel horse? A guy in my area has one and he claims that his family bought it new with the white paint. His brother removed the engine to rebuild it, ordered parts, and got no further. The owner wants to sell but I have no idea what Im looking at. I did a little researc and I believe that they produced a white D80 in 62. Could that be what this is? I cant find anyone who knows about this because a wheelhorse is always red. So what is it? Whats it worth? How much would be a fair offer?

I have one drawbar hitch left in Jays collection @roadapples. $20 with the pin.

This is the only white one I can remember seeing. I think it looks pretty cool...

Adjusted your text a bit. BTW @ericforster Here in the Herd of EB & BBT we have several odd colors. Cinnamon Horse. BRIGHT red on 2 different tractors. And the awesome Military Tribute Tractor "Millie".

and I’m not opposed to an oddball paint job in the herd!

Is that overspray? It looked to me like it was an aged tag as its not just one area but multiple areas throughout. I mean it is 58 years old. Its nothing special then, other than it is a 58 year old wheelhorse.

He's spot on!

Seeing you haven't seen the engine yet you probably don't know if the bore and the crank are good or if it needs machining. That would also affect the price.

It looks like it is a 875. It has no apparent signs of repaint to my untrained eye.

I'm with @ebinmaine, I would only pay around $150 for it in my area. If the new engine parts are all genuine Kohler I might go as high as $300. Knowing that I had to rebuild the engine and not knowing anything else about it, I would figure 300 to $400 to get it running and driving. $1500+ to restore it to my liking.

If there's any numbers on the engine that would narrow down what year THAT is. Issue there is, you don't know the engine hasn't been changed out over the years so it certainly isn't a guarantee. The only way to say for sure what year the tractor is is to find the ID tag as stated above. My thoughts on the value... Unless you can come up with some sort of written provenance the documents the color change by a dealer or the factory, we have to assume it was done by a previous owner even if it was very very early on. Does that make it rare and valuable? Well not just because of the color. One of the caveats to purchasing a hydro that does not run as you have no way of testing the hydro. Unfortunately nowadays you almost have to assume something does NOT work until you can prove to yourself that it does later. I guess the proper selling price really is what makes both the buyer and seller happy. If I was after something like that I probably would feel okay tossing $300 max at it... and i think i'm being pretty generous. I'd shoot for half that though.

In retrospect, the heavy lower plate might be overkill. Still, with me being almost EB-size, the lower plate lets me confidently use a second bolt (½-13 x ¾” with a locknut) in the other hole in the spring so the rider weight is not trying to bend the end of the spring around that rearward hole. (I did investigate adding a spring steel reinforcement to the stock spring--$$$.) The square tubes I had on hand were ¾” and I wasn’t going to spend cash to get something bigger! I may epoxy on a couple of nice maple wood end plates so it looks a bit more posh and matches my custom maple dashboard! Once the paint cures fully and it’s mounted, I’ll post another picture.

You would think so Richard but we have found with the aggressive field plowing we do they do work loose... even with double screws. Really good points Ollie. @oliver2-44

Glad to know you are making good progress @upstate yank! It may be a good idea to continue on a thread, instead of a new one each time. It will help with your own records of the journey, and if anyone else needs guidance in the future they’ll be able to see the whole story unfold.

i did try that... i guess she prefers a transparent one

To the question of testing a rectifier, yes that would be doable. But most WH engines use a voltage regulator, not a rectifier. Standalone testing of these requires more equipment than a volt meter. The voltage regulator has two jobs: convert the variable voltage A/C power coming from the stator on the engine into DC power, and to regulate the amount of voltage and current flowing through to the battery so it can charge safely. As @ebinmaine notes, it can be “yes or no” tested on a running engine assuming the other parts of the electrical system (stator, battery, wiring) are working properly. Assuming the battery is in good condition and reads ~12v with the engine off Then with the engine running well above idle, if: - the stator is generating up to 35 or so volts A/C on its two wires both when connected and when not connected to the regulator - and the regulator is well grounded - and the wiring connections are good - and the regulator's output is between 13 and 16 volts to the battery with the stator wires connected and the battery wire connected, then “probably it’s ok”.

Happy Birthday @cafoose, we are all glad you were born!

h https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0716NGDBQ/ref=pe_27541340_704398030_em_1p_1_lm physical match / type / swap on outer cone bearing upgrade , very easy to re grease , with hi temp lucas . that combined with a inner needle bearing wipe / out , makes for a solidly smooth / quiet lever engagement . next step would be to re grease , the mule drive bearings . only a suggestion , if you like it as it is , ignore this , pete

Maybe someone at the factory put in the wrong paint?

At best I would say that it is a dealer repaint. Why??? I have no idea. I do see that the gas tank & starter/gen are still red. Be interesting to see what color the engine is. Depending on the quality of the job done would determine if you find old paint. When I do a resto or repaint all of the original paint is removed so I can start with bare metal. If I acquired this tractor I would sand a spot on the inside of the hood to see if red paint is reviled.

Definitely a puzzle. The paint and decals, especially. Data off the engine or chassis tag (might still be readable on the left side above and behind the big lift lever (obscured by wire coil?) would help. Better shots of the dashboard and center console, too. Selling with the engine or without? Welcome to the Forum, by the way!

A 15" car tube will work a 235 x 15 is around 27" tall. Tubes strech lot better the one that's too large and folds up.

Ive aways found Onans start best at hard idle, i started doing it because with the throttle open and choke shut it would immediately flood the cylinders. My Linamar OL18 (newer p218g) i can actually start without choke for 2 or 3 days after running it just moving the throttle down to idle.

Yes sir. Yes sir. But .... That's what Trina's for.

They make good property protectors. Mean sumb*tches.

Now that one is one I'd happily comply with!

So with most people this can be interpreted as never check the tightness of hub set screws. If the set screws are tightened to 35 foot pounds and the lock nuts to 30 foot pounds they shouldn't be a problem. Too many times ate set screws are just tightened with a ratchet an not nearly tight enough for the job at hand.

Damn, i can feel it itching allready.... what can i do...? Stop at 3...? And how can i contaminate my wife?

we got our two C175s 2 yrs ago -- the 1983 is S1 ( black ) ........the other is 1984 ( gray ) is S2 - the S1 runs fine but low hours -- hopefully it has a good life with us and was cared for by prior owners but we dont know its origin so its guessing game -- we have one small up and down yard slope for mowing -- so up it and down it in 10-15 seconds and we have one small side slope -- maybe 20-30 seconds - so hopefully that's not enough to damage engine -- we will keep oil changed and full !!!!!!!!! i would love to know the actual percentage of the S1s that were built that went bad and had to be replaced -- and if the damage was mostly all abuse, poor care, and lots of slopes??? Was it 5 percent, 10, 50 percent??? If they had good care and no slopes/hills, did they have a good longevity? I've seen many comments of S1 owners who have had no problems????? For us i guess only time will tell ????

We did 8 speed swap last year on the grass at the big show with basic tools. Bought an unseen tractor with an undisclosed trans problem. Someone knocked the clip of the axle so it was sliding out. ( I'll never buy an unseen tractor from someone I don't know personally again) Luckily some friends came through with a free trans. It was a 400 series trans into a Raider.

I recently replaced the axle seals on my 1960 Suburban and used threaded rod with a spare hub at the other end and a 6 ton jack in between. I'm not sure if these had ever been changed before and the hubs were definitely rusted on. I used the heat/quench method and was tapping around the radius of the hub with a hammer while heating. It took some patience and work, but both eventually came free. And you bet they went back on with anti seize on the axle.

I do not think so. I called Design Technology, Inc. the makers of the Tiny Tach and talked to their electrical engineer. The Tiny Tach has a wire that wraps around a spark plug wire for inductive pick up of the spark plug pulse to trigger the tach.