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I did some refreshing on two of my four RJs today! I had to replace an older leaking Kohler carb on one. Did some touch up painting on the other. I bought the one with battery and 12 volt coil recoil assist in Florida with a mower deck. I also bought another Wheel Horse dump cart in Florida which I painted with truck bed liner today. Going to place some RJ decals on them in next few days.

Last fall I made the mistake of driving my 312-8 up the ramps onto my trailer. No mishap took place, but I realized it was not a good thing. Over the winter I pondered a solution and came up with a combo winch mount and suitcase weight bracket. The fall and spring job requires a bit of extra weight on the front to keep the wheels on the ground as I drive uphill while pulling a trailer. Ordered a piece of steel 3x12 by 1/2 inch thick and created what is displayed in the photo below. As part of the process I added some spacers between the bracket arms and the frame to give clearance for the mule drive. Total cost including the winch is approximately $150. Much cheaper than being on a tractor falling off a trailer. Keep in mind that the winches only true job is for loading on and off the trailer though other uses may turn up.

I've had aunts and uncles over the years that looked a lot like that

Refurbished a Starter Gen.Replaced the bearings cleaned up the Armature etc.Stripped and ready to paint.

Just found a nice original survivor that simply needed a new battery. I bought it to replace my engine in my c121. But its far too nice to part out. Even has the WH seat. Included was an All Steel dump cart from Wheel Horse. Now I guess that I'm still looking for an engine. Any ideas for good engines available? Koehler 12 14 16 preferred. Mike

Got more hair than I do!

Eyes look correct but it has Waldo's hair!

So not much has happend on the 7317 last few months, took the kt17 down to @ebinmaine and went over that and bench tested it. Fired right up so that's good news. Hadnt been able to get back down there and pick it back up till i healed from surgery then once i did winter set in so been slow going. But its back and started to get it cleaned and painted, also stockpiling the parts going to need to put it all together.

The better design chute rotator is another reason to stay with the tall chute.

My 312H Rear And the front

Here's how I weighted down my mighty C-85, from front to back!

For those who do not believe haggie are real. Here's the proof.

Non steering while plowing snow is definitely an issue. Trina's 867 Pigpen will barely turn even with chain wrapped tires and some extra weight. I've ordered a set of these: Carlisle X-tracs for the steers on her rig. We'll add more weight. Very likely also fluid fill the tires. Should help a fair amount.

I cleaned it up… Now let’s get back to comparing it to Squonk

Has the breather been recently removed? This usually happens if the breather is reassembled incorrectly. If not, maybe the reed valve has failed.

Probly $50 to $60 each think I paid about 40 each for mine a few year's back. They are very good traction!

They're about $50 each for Carlisles

I buy old outdated cooking spray for cheap. Then Pam it.

Thank you Steve! David and I have six together. I am going to try and take three to the Pennsylvania Show this year.

Exactly what's need to make the single stages work in the wet stuff. That's why HP and Hydros are the friend of a single stage.

@peter lena Yes, i always make sure the grease and lube everything on the blower before and after a Storm.

Don't be a Wuss Get a cubic foot of depleted uranium 1,175 lbs go big or go home

C’mon down and play a few nights! I have my .17 hmr and thought about trying some calls during daytime. I heard now’s the time for bringing males in with ‘yote in heat sounds…

I've seen that also, but felt that defeats the safety function of the blade trip design. My blade trips quite often as I use my blade for a lot of dozer work including trail work where I am catching on roots. I am thankful the blade does trip fairly easily so I can do the work without fear of damaging the equipment.

Much of the grass that is collected on the Onan is tossed there by the left front tire. Some time back a member showed fenders made from a plastic bucket to contain the debris.

Hope you don't have any nieces and nephews.

I was expecting to see a bunch of sheep's innards being prepared for Burns Night meal. Not too sure which looks the least appetizing.

If you are going to be moving transmissions very often I would suggest you build a dolly.

ditto the prior suggestions to switch the mowers - - in addition to previous suggestions, clean underneath of the decks to avoid rot - - and common sense don't mow wet grass -- i use putty knife after every mowing to clean/scrape bottom of shell, plus power pressure wash every 3-4-5 mowings as needed - besides stopping shell rot the cleaner the bottom of shell the better quality cut and better discharge of clippings ---------- also if you have pulley/belt covers use leaf blower to blow out clippings from under the covers - - that will certainly cause rot thru on top of deck over time if not cleaned - here is photo of the R.D. vinyl strip i attached of base wall/cabinate vinyl - use hex carriage bolts with rounded heads underneath to avoid catching clippings

OK 'nuff of this jibber jabber... just GITERDONE EB... lets see a weight box. I got 4 ft of snow here and you are yakkin flip flops..

I've used just about every spray thing from Sno-Jet down to $0.50 cans of funiture polish from the outlet store. Believe it or not the furniture polish worked too just like the Pam. Just about anything gets worn off each session by the time your done

Here is one source. https://www.amazon.com/Carlisle-Trac-ATV-Bias-Tire/dp/B001THCJDO/ref=sr_1_7?gclid=CjwKCAiAr4GgBhBFEiwAgwORram7jMCkyRPPhTqWiBYNPbwBv-cJcluinDqei2uyrFCxRMlAQiar2RoCQkgQAvD_BwE&hvadid=190519359526&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9019452&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=e&hvrand=7239541249736495322&hvtargid=kwd-303960057838&hydadcr=6587_9585036&keywords=carlisle+xtrac&qid=1677805278&sr=8-7 For those with narrow rims. https://www.amazon.com/Carlisle-X-Trac-Kart-Tire-480-8/dp/B011O41N8S/ref=sr_1_4?gclid=CjwKCAiAr4GgBhBFEiwAgwORram7jMCkyRPPhTqWiBYNPbwBv-cJcluinDqei2uyrFCxRMlAQiar2RoCQkgQAvD_BwE&hvadid=190519359526&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9019452&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=e&hvrand=7239541249736495322&hvtargid=kwd-303960057838&hydadcr=6587_9585036&keywords=carlisle+xtrac&qid=1677805278&sr=8-4

Put together my new mitter saw stand and my new swag table for my portable metal bandsaw! Both are awesome and the swag table is rock solid gonna put it to work with the 7317 wheel horse project I'm building! ....Oh and then right after I burned all the evidence!

You have to loosen the bolt that clamps the pulley to the swing arm. The one at the slot. You have plenty of room left in the slot to move the pylley forward with the jack screw you are pointing at. After adjusting the belt tension, retighten the bolt at the slot.

the best snow blowers are the metal ones not the junk plastic ones and i prefer the longer one so it shutes farther.

I started this thread as a bit of fun, not to have politics spoiling it.

@ri702bill No the winch is bolted to the 1/2 steel plate with the grade 8 bolts that came with the winch. The metal plate you see extended above the winch is welded to the 1/2 plate.

In short, it isn’t the force needed to move the blade that’s the issue--its what it takes to hold it in position for which one needs either a mechanical lock (which we already have) or a very strong actuator and mounting. For an unlocked pivot system, I did some of the math on estimated unbalanced loading and impacts on the blade (i.e where there is force on only one side of the blade pivot) to get some idea of the mechanism needed. I also looked closely at other GT plows that have power angles. Net: actuator would need to withstand impacts of at least 2,000 lbs to avoid damage and have a mounting similarly capable. Typical GTs use a 3” diameter hydraulic cylinder with a robust control valve and heavy mounting hardware for this. None I found are direct electric actuators (too fragile). For a locking pivot system, the trick is to synchronize the lock release with the powered angling using interlocks to prevent trying to pivot a locked blade and to warn of trying to plow with an unlocked blade. So the control system gets complicated.

@Stormin Not sure what animal is in the picture , but it sure favors ,@squonk .

It is pumped to get it done. Free time hard to come by so little by little. Still has to come apart more but then it will be coming together!

I run these on my bolens and they are great after mowing 1 or 2x at beginning of the year I don't have to again because I have no lawn left 😅 they really bite in.

Not a good start to the day this morning. Day's plan was to do some logging. Been left a good heap of tree branches off a tree that's been felled down the bridleway. Already got given a trailer load of big lumps by the chap who's been cutting it up. What's left ranges from 5" downward. Chainsaw and everything all ready loaded in the tote box on the back of the Sears yesterday. So into the workshop to get the Sears out, only to find front, LH tyre flat. Got a thorn in it. Off with the wheel and off to the tyre fitters to get it repaired. The tyres isn't in the best of health anyway. Not really surprising after 43yrs. Side wall getting perished and that was leaking air as well. New tyre needed. So I bit the bullet and ordered two multi ribbed ones instead of turfs. Back home and fitted the trailer ball hitch to the C-125. Transferred chainsaw etc to trailer and off I went. Now have 2-1/2 trailer loads of stove ready logs stored away for next winter. Still some more to get tomorrow all being well.

Both are okay, just blow of the tractor, deck, & engine after mowing, ( I use my leaf blower ) Most problems arise from neglect, owners never doing it. I have 520 H parts tractor that the PO killed by NEVER cleaning it, it was packed full of grass, dirt & crud.

Most folks will say the long chute works better, throws the snow further, and since the snow seems to move faster thru it, the chute clogs less.

I altered mine to get it inside the cab on my 520H. I sawed a vee in the lever about 3/4 of the way thru at several key places, then bent the lever to the shape I needed. After I had the shape I needed, I welded the vees and added a plate on the side of each vee. I used a cable guided by several small eye bolts to operate the angle locking pin.

How about adding extra pounds to the operator? Those would be directly over the axle!?

I have finally managed to get some shop time in. Chopping and welding some of those newel posts together. Maybe I'll have a semi finished product later this afternoon.