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Finally got some snow to blow today! Took the C-145 out and one of our Toro CCR 3650 out and did the driveway. Of course I used the C-145 and my mom used the 3650. Both ran good and did the job. IMG_0897.MOV IMG_0901.MOV

Cleaned up and sliced thin potato chips then deep fried in tallow I had recently rendered.

Looks like you are about to learn a new skill. You will need to carefully centerpunch the ends of each of the broken bolts and drill progressively larger holes in the bolts. Start with a 1/8" or smaller drill bit being sure the hole is centered and going as straight as possible down the bolt. Apply some oil as you drill and the heat of the drill will help the oil work is way down the threads. Drill about a 1/2" deep. Repeat the process using a 3/16" bit and check to make sure the drill isn't getting into the taped threads in the engine bearing plate or cylinder head too badly. They are both aluminum and easily damaged. At this point you will probably have drilled through the edge of the bolt someplace. Use a small punch to gently fold back the edge of the bolt where the drill has broken through. The bolt should come right out now. Take your time doing this, accuracy is the key to success, not speed.

No I didn't, but for $75 could I really pass it up? I'm not sure what my plans are for it, but It needs a good fuel oil soaking in the transmission and a new fuel valve in the tank. If I can get it running it may just be something I flip. Either way it'll be fun!

What did I do with the horse today???? First day of snow this season in Hudson River Valley, NY - WH lined up ready to leave the "barn"..................so plowed 5 inches to clear driveway - C175 H with plow blade I cleaned up and rehabbed painted this past year.

Another great landfill score.

Oh how I wish I had the compact size and agility to twist in the seat like you do!

The other thing to do, is to adjust your blade height to 1/4" off the drive way surface and come at the expansion joints at an angle...not straight on.

Check this out. I refurbished my B-100 Snow Blade some years ago. This may help you. This is what the springs looked like. The springs going through electrolysis. This is how they came out and I then soaked them in a oil bath for a few days. A metal bread pan was perfect for both springs. The oil was a mixture of Brake Fluid, Auto-matic Trans Fluid (Red), and some Acetone. The finished product. I feel like the process re-newed the springs.

WD is nearly useless as a penetrating oil my good sir. Here is a true, unbiased test of penetrants by "Project Farms" Penetrating oils tested in the real world. If I recall correctly, Liquid wrench outperformed all save a mix of 50/50 ATF/Acetone. Kroil also did very well but is VERY expensive with no real-world advantage. Which shroud are you referring to? The discharge chute keepers? Your user name caught my attention as I am a 2 million mile over the road owner operator. My first machine was an "82 Kenworth W900 with a 400 Cummins (Hard riding piece of crap) and in 1986 I bought a new FLC120 260" wheelbase glider with Neeway big bag air ride and a V-8 souped up cat (courtesy of Salt Lake City Cat who dyno tuned it) and an Great Dane Air ride 48' reefer with all aluminums and stainless front and rear I traded it in 1992 for the new Intigral air ride cab FLD120 and a spanking new fancy dancy Great Dane with a Carrier Ice Cream unit that would hold -20 in 110 degree Arizona heat. I got rid of the 4 MPG V-8 and got the last of the mechanical pump four ina quarter Cats. After two west coast trips I brought it into Salt Lake City Cat to make that baby talk to me...I was never out-pulled, not once, it was stronger than the V-8 was. She had a 15 over with 3.70's and would hold 100mph fully grossed out...that was one sweet machine. Decked out to the max with every option possible, dual 6" Straight pipes, all aluminums, air cab, air ride front end, Bose stereo, fridge, rear climate control, Queen bed, generator for fuel saving when sitting/waiting for a load. I hauled mostly fresh, straight Maine lobster meat out west (stuff was 30.00 per LB wholesale and I had to be insured and bonded for 1 million to haul it. A full load was about 30,000 Lbs.) to L.A., Florida, Vegas, Houston, Seattle etc. and haul produce back to the Boston market, Shaw's or Hannaford's. I had my own authority and used good honest brokers such as Allen Lund. Then I sold that as a complete unit in '97 (Got ROYALLY screwed on capital gains tax as I wrote the entire unit off in depreciation over 5 years) and went to school and got my Microsoft MSCE and Cisco CNE and Unity call system as well as Unix/Linux certs. Got a job as a Systems administrator for a large 12 location company with 300 end users and was promoted to CIO with a very hefty salary. I retired in 2008 at 45 years old and a year later I opened my Small Engine repair shop to the public and I'm still flourishing. I got so busy that I took my sign down but they just kept coming! Crazy, turned into much more then I wanted. I built an add-on 30x60 building in 2014 and should have doubled it. Sorry about the bio ) Kevin, Kevins Small Engine service, South Berwick ME. 03908

I know I’m way behind the 8 ball on this thread, but if I were building a weight box like @JCM or @WHX?? has, I might consider extending the mount to incorporate the mid mount tach-a-matic like FEL frames have.

Got some snow here today! I know, it’s Tuesday

Pine,pine,and more pine. Snagged a inside job for the Winter. Doesn't leave much shop time but pays the bills

Are you insured? An actual registered business? Pay taxes? advertise? etc etc? If you're not now and interested in doing so I can possibly help you with some advice on that stuff. If you're doing it for a living you should be. By being a registered and insured company that means you can get the work and the good customers willing to pay normal and/or premium fees for the services you provide. If you're doing it more of a helpful hobby type of thing there are still some things to consider. Be sure to CYA just in case something or someone goes wrong! Consider making the services you are knowledgeable about, good at and do the most be the bread and butter work which pays all the bills and your salary. Some of the other stuff can be done with some good will and lower prices at a minimum of break even which may seem like a loss at the time, but it really builds the trust and customer base quickly. It pays off 2 fold or more in the long run.

That's the ticket, Ed. I even added 20 pound weights inside behind the 75 pounders this year...

Short answer...YES. There MAY be some external linkage swaps to be made, but the hydro and gear box should be an easy swap. The 1973 (no-name) 12hp Auto has Sundstrand model 90-1136. The C-160 Auto s/b Sundstrand 90-1140.

Quickly brought up the C-145 when I got home from school to change the tires, chains, and wheel weights. Fueled it up, greased and lubes everything. And now it’s ready for tomorrows storm! And gave it a new spot in the barn and put my 310-8 that was there in the back. No school yay!!

My mother didn't raise any dummies.

I used one made by Hobart for 4 years as I put myself thru college. Cleaning the slicer would nick my finger if I wasn't careful.

Ah, I think I see. Drill the holes in the “ridge" of the threads and then use small pins and have them just proud of the thread wedging tightly into the “vee” between spring coils?

I'm thinkin' this sounds like a good cheap fix!

OK...not having any pictures of what you have there, enables all kinds of ideas. I think the springs are the weak point that Wheel Horse made so when you hit something hard the springs popped. Remember, the blade frame is attached to your transmission. I don't think you want the axles of your trans to break just because you hit something that stopped your blade. My thinking is clean the springs and see if you have a sloppy fit. The last thing I would do is try to take the weak point of a system and make it the strong point...like welding the springs to their attachment. I would rather buy different springs then replacing a transmission case of both. Maybe just clean it and put it back together and see if it comes apart again. One thing for sure...if you have a place that is going to catch your blade, know where it is and slow down enough to raise your blade enough to get over it. My thought...you were going too fast and did not give the blade a chance. I hit things in my drive, but it stops my horse because I am not going top end. The blade will either stop the horse or I will be ale to lift the blade a little to get by. Just some things to think about while you read some of these other ideas.

Part #11 is worn or rusted away too much, the fix is to get or make new parts. IMO, the engagement is poor when new and gets worse over time, if mine causes problems I will make new that is tight as the hinges of Hell.

Finding a Leak In Winter shorts Won't say what came into mind when I read that. Did a small welding repair in the farm milking parlour this morning. Afternoon spent moving sheep troughs and lamb creeps from field to field.

Yes, exactly. That’s the thinking anyway. I don’t think it’s a problem of over-extension. The spring-to-end connection failed. If anything, extending the spring should tighten it by reducing it’s diameter, right, but the movement of the coil may have worn away the threading of the cast iron. Add in @squonk’s point about rust and that combo may just be underlying culprits and so any replacement may have the same issue. Makes me wonder how JBWeld would hold up. Maybe need to put some thin cold-rolled steel shims in there when threading it together?

BTW I believe the reason for the svg format is it should be scalable without getting pixelated. Jpg images get grainy when enlarged too much.

@SylvanLakeWH Check this adobe site to convert an jpg to svg. https://www.adobe.com/express/feature/image/convert/jpg-to-svg

No crap Sylvia, AN AMBULANCE JUST FLEW BY BLAZING THE SIRENS! I’m in the middle nowhere, USA. BFE is about 100 miles that way!

I’m on an icy roof today. They have a leak due to wind damage, but they are waiting on contractor schedule and materials and insurance mumbled jumbo to get it taken care of. I’m defrosting the thing with a garden hose so I can at least tarp the thing for them. @ebinmaine I erred on the side of caution last night and backed off when I could no longer see my hands

Kevin - I figured someone else - maybe the person with the camera was operating the shop crane, out of view. Good job too, no cussin' !! Two jobs ago, I worked with a middle aged guy that was a good machinist and assembler. After a couple of years working there, he gave his two week notice that he was leaving and had another job to go to. I asked what was up - he had a great offer closer to home, but it came with a price. He was going to be an "All-around" guy - design, machine, fabricate, assemble, wire and do the PLC programming. He was going to a precious metals company - their production equipment was all built in house, they farmed nothing out. I cautioned him the danger of the "forest and the trees" designing - told him to feel free to contact me with any "questions" Fast forward about 5 years, I ran into him at a trade show. I asked how the metals job was working out. Seems it didn't - he got painted into a corner by his own hand in the 11th hour a week before the startup. They gave him the quick toss out the door..... I've only met two "All-around" guys in my career. One started his own contract company, the other became a Technical College instructor.... One thing I learned about Companies that insist on hiring someone to take a project soup-to-nuts. They are looking to hire "The Guy that can Walk on Water", but are willing to cough up enough pieces of silver to buy an Apostle.....

That girl has an incredible set .... of shop tools along with design and fabrication skills. I'd be happy to have the powered rotary chuck to do seamless circular welds, nevermind the CNC plasma cutter!! There must have been over $1000 dollars in flat plate alone...... Her presentation emphasizes the need to think a design completely thru before cutting metal. Leaving the hydraulic cylinder out could be a costly show stopper. Her willingness to admit the error shows her strength in character - and highlights the danger of working alone - all too easy buy into a design with a major flaw - you can't see the forest for the trees. We did our designs mostly alone, but always asked a colleague to look over the design and calculations prior to having a formal Design Review presentation with the Customer. That was NOT the time to get bagged with a critical design error or omission - those can knock you down the foodchain in a hurry!!! I am impressed with her use of the fume extractor while welding. For the most part, professional welders and bodymen do not live to retirement age.....

Tire chains. Are yor planning on 2 link of 4 link?? Vee bars or raised bar crosslinks grip well on ice, but will gouge up a driveway surface and give a kidney rattlin' ride on pavement. I removed these when the new driveway was paved. Off the top of my head, there are 30 of them - a mix of both styles. Yours free - jut pay shipping - or stop on by next time going thru.....

I've worked through the city's bureaucracy and am finally starting to put my porch back together. Only able to get a couple hours of work in on it at a time between mentoring the robotics team and waiting for days with good weather. I've gotten the ledger board up for the rafters and got one the north post and end beam up. I got the south post prepped today. Hopefully, I'll get the front beam set and the rafters up this week. When I get the roof deck on, I can call the brick mason back to stick the bricks on. Does not help that my wife was feeling sick last Friday. We got a Covid test kit Saturday for her and she tested positive. We have turned ourselves into hermits for a couple of weeks. I've picked up a cough. Hope I don't have that crud now.

I ordered a pair of headlight bezels from a vendor that advertises here for my 414-8 and installed them today. I also repainted the black on the hood with Rustoleum gloss black. I replaced the hood shaft with bolts and plastic washers to firm it up and stop the rattles. I cut the washers from a plastic oil can and they work great. I try to take care of this Horse and it is a super dependable machine.

You could also hook up 3,4,5,6,7, trailers or whatever and look like @SylvanLakeWH running around your neighborhood

@ bc.gold , great pick up on that ! back in the day american anything did not have an expiration date , making it live on is the deal . pete

This is awesome!

“Pullstart Home Repair Specialists” Licensed and Heavily Insured. 😁

I went ahead and ordered the ambulance... But seriously... Careful!!!

A couple options are taller front tires and spacer blocks to lower the rear axle attachment point.

I like weight on each wheel and when I need more I have a 2" receiver that was made by a fella on here @n1defan and he make me a suitcase weight bracket to fit it. It IS braced down to the pin though. The tractor is a freight train with all the weights added.

I like the chalk/water/kerosene leak check method.

Which one do you have? First two require Conversion Kit 106-8256 and Rear Attach-A-Matic Hitch 106-5694 or 107-8490 This one requires Rear Attach-A-Matic Hitch 106-5694 or 107-8490

I gotta' say, on my Workhorse, I can only get the blade about 2" off the ground. If it hits the frame, higher is not an option.

@TonyToro Jr. You do know we’re going to need some pictures of you and your tractor in action tomorrow!

Both bad ground and faulty switch could be at fault here. It's important to remember that these are DC systems. Direct Current. A bad ground means you no longer have a complete circuit. Bad switch of course would do the same. If you get a replacement switch be sure to get a GOOD quality brand and make sure the part number is correct. I've seen many times that a switch for a magneto tractor was installed where a battery ignition switch is needed and vice versa. I see it says you have a c-160. What year and what engine?

1054 side shot video