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Found an old netbook that I haven’t used in a loooong time. It stopped connecting to my wifi and I just gave up on it. Just got a new wifi provider and tried to connect and sure enough it did. Was able to send myself all sorts of pics that were stored on the netbook that I had forgotten about. None of these tractors are here in my collections anymore, kinda wish a couple of em were though. The D-160 was super nice! The Gt-1800 was a parts rig.. @AMC RULES has the Eaton 1100 rear now. The one with the ammo box was pretty much my first WH. Cobbled up but trusty!

I see a giant mis-use of name lawsuit here worth at least a billion... what do you guys think? Tony

Most schools lost power in the area today, the wind has been brutal!

Thought I'd do an update on the ol 1257. It hit 65 degrees today (feb 15th.).... only in upstate NY. I decided to paint up the wider rims I just got (used), going to buy new beefy tires next chance I get. Also re-painted the inner and outer wheel weights since they got banged around past few years. Also, I made a new coil-points wire, soldered some other wires, and threw in a little white paint on a few little things, for some reason I really like the white with the red. Oh and cant forget the muffler.... stack came off, this is from a 300 series i believe. Looks cleaner. I have more to do yet, but its coming along.

For us - Plastic Kroger HD Lowe's Menards and Meijer shopping bags when I play Lawn Ranger... No patent issues, greatly reduced smell and mess... "Free" by the bucketload... I will never buy a device to pick up our "manure spreader's" efforts... he's very prodigious!!! but i'm way cheaper...

Got your insurance adjuster coming over??

That green energy device didn't damage the did it???

What a great memory lane trip. I often go through my old collection of pictures to. I had some nice machines. We are considering selling our home by the beach, moving back to a 3/4 acre property. If we do that its wheel horse time again. I hope we do. The problem will be finding something "nice". Thanks for sharing those pictures.

Subframe with new transmission mount mostly complete. There will be one more crossmember for the rear of the 3 speed transmission. Haven’t gotten that far yet.

Been pretty windy here today as well. Nothing serious enough for power outages though. Batten down the hatches & ride it out safely Kevin.

All back together 👍 …. but I do see two holes I forgot to weld up.

I was happy as well! As well as tractors there were kids birthday party pics, some vacation pics….and my IROC!!

Nope. Very little stuff in this area. I’m searching the edges of the old pastures. It’s all woods now. I find quite a few old shotgun brass. All different and most 60-100 yr old. I found a broken cap gun about 5” deep in the woods and a bunch of spent lead. The dumps are where a detector is useless but with the new detectors and patience you can almost “see” what’s in the ground.

Does anyone collect these types of wrench’s? I found this one metal detecting an old farm. It’s all cleaned up and supposedly rare from what I can find online.

to the No need to worry. You just had the infamous Eaton 1100 burp.

Hey now. Mrs K just gave me that camera for my birthday...my 50th. That was only bout 5 or so years ago.

I also found some rare factory option gas tank spacers too!

I am still looking for that bracket, so check them buckets.

Not sure what it is Jim. Looking at the engine serial numbers, it looks like a 704 with a lawn ranger hood. A few other goodies.

Wow... Kodak... You stop by the Smithsonian and pick up a new camera...?

@Ed Kennell Your camera.

huh a while ago we had some crazy wind to but i was still able to put the three wheeler away safely

I need to transfer the right side, but it all looks like it’s going to fit!

All these C-160s just make me sick.

Nice looking 702 there, Mike. I too use the later curved front cutting deck - cuts a lot better than the old "suitcase" one I have....

The 1/4" Clevis pin and hair clip have worked pretty well on my Lawn ranger for 56 years...Comes out easy...

Doesn't hurt to check them with the torque wrench. If its not blown i wouldn't remove it

Yes, its so slick that surfaces you actually want to bed in, dont really do that. Same reason why they say to make sure theres no oily fingerprints or grease on flywheels and rotors on installation...because it can cause a weird bed-in result which will decide how well the parts perform over their lifetime.

Closest thing like that for me is the multi-wrench for the oxy-acetelene torch. Had all the sizes needed, but no bottle opener....

108501 listed for the hydro models but same dimensions as 7473 Next column in the chart above Transmission drive belt 108501 - (HB/5L x 81.50" or 5/8" x 81.5") Sure wish we had an original parts list for this one.

Everyone has an opinion on break-in on a new engine or rebuild...but the most important thing is not using synthetic oil or any synthetic additives, and once warmed up the first time and there's no leaks or noises...get a load on it for 10 or so minutes. There is a short window for ring/cylinder break-in, and a load helps to push the rings out harder against the cylinder. Excessive idling, and lack of load can lead to the crosshatch wearing down before the rings seat, this is called glazing and can lead to extended break-in and oil use. Last engine i built was a 20hp Command, i fired it up first time...set it to 2000, verified no leaks or noises then put it on full throttle and mowed an acre. Its a bit nerve wracking, not gonna lie... Then after 10hrs or so, oil change and your choice of oil..i like synthetics with lots of zinc (after break-in)

Straight from the Kohler rebuild manual.

Got a bracket for the 8-speed today I don't expect the magneto for the M10 or the valve cover and head gaskets for either of them until next week so I figured I might as well pull the dozer blade down and give it a once-over. I'll probably go ahead and fit it to the 8-speed while the motor is off. I wish I had taken pictures of the blade, it's been in storage for a long time and is a little rough but it's all there and looks like it still has good bones

I took it easy today. I rebuilt a hydraulic cylinder to go on the Bronco. It has one of the older welded cylinders that is leaking a little. I just rebuilt a newer spare and will swap them in a few days. Took it completely apart and soaked in hot water and degreaser. Then rinsed in hot water. Must be good stuff, because it took the paint off! The wipers on the plunger were completely disentigrated, so I'm glad I took the time to rebuild instead of just swapping as-is. Lubed all the new o-rings with dex/merc and it went back together with about 2.6 grunts. Wiped down and shot a coat of primer and paint. Not show quality, but hopefully will last another few years. Start to finish around 30 mins.

I replaced the oil and filter on my 312 Hydro in the fall (2022). All went well though it took a bit less oil than recommended. It operated fine and the fluid level was always on the mark. I just open the shed where it's kept and found oil coming out the top of the dipstick tube and onto the floor. If I was to guess, it's probably about 1/2 a cup. I took the dipstick out and the oil receded back down. I checked it after letting it set a while and found the level to be about halfway between full and add. I didn't have this occur the last time I did an oil change on the tranny. Anyone have any insight on this or is it just another weird thing on the list of weird things that happen to me?

@Ed Kennell what did you haul from the auction ?

I think it’s a 1/4” npt pipe plug. It MAY be 3/8” npt but I am pretty for sure it’s 1/4”.

Thanks to @19richie66’s inspiration and guidance, I found the quick release button for the rear fender! This will work out well, because I’d like to lift it up 1/2” or so for tire clearance.

If you are looking for oil don't overlook the diesel oils and that is the large print on the label. There is one that is still common and meets the CF and CF-2 specification for diesels. If you read the fine print you will also see it meets the SG specification for gas engines and replaces SF. Cx is compression or diesel Sx is spark for gasoline

Scary! I use bolts and nylocks on the hoods all the time. Improves alignment when closing and eliminates hood rattling too. There's no more wear in the pivot afterwards either.

lol dirty I have yet to Wash it it’s still a bit chilly here in PA and I just put touch up paint on any spots since she’s a work horse more than for show

I believe Honda advise in their operators manuals against running their small engines in low/no load - low speed situations. This to avoid bore and ring issues. Full size tractors that are used to drive irrigation pumps etc, running at a constant speed and load for extended periods can start to burn oil. A good workout pulling a plow/plough usually sorts this out!

Cool wrench. Planer Jr was a walk behind tractor.

Thanks for the suggestions. I have a niece that is a custom jewelry designer for a shop in NYC. She says my credit card won’t get me in the door. She actually did the wedding rings for my 3 sons. She felt it was brass but said she never works with it. I’ll definitely get some smaller rod and try more of an in out process with the torch. But as @pacermentioned these small pieces really do cool quickly. Like the Borax, I used to use Tide soap for my flux years ago. One other process I need to simplify is cutting the nails. I used a Dremel with a cut off wheel and held the nails in a vice grip to cut these pieces.

@ebinmaine Eric I think @Blasterdad and @squonk nailed it. I don’t think my C-160 is original as far as paint and decals. I’ll send you some better pictures when it’s light out!

Also you should retorque the head bolts after the first time you run the engine up to operating temperature.

I like to braze!! I can do it so much better than stick or mig.... I recently had to attach a plumbing elbow to an existing hyd oil return pipe and knew it would take .... "stacking?" of the brass around the rather loose join, which I think this is what you are needing to do. I pretty quickly found that the motion? of the flame - in/out/in/out was giving me the 'stacking' (building up the amount of brass) that I wanted to be sure I had built up a good strong join. Turned out pretty well! This may very well not help your situation with the much smaller pieces which will heat and cool so fast. A smaller tip may be a help here..... I use plain rods with Borax (yes, the kitchen stuff!) as flux, my dad was a jeweler and he occasionally used brass and he taught me this. Just heat the tip of the rod and stick it in the powder and it will stick to the rod.

First, I'd like to thank the members that responded to my post. I guess I over valued the deck by comparing it to the deck I had to buy for my Work Horse. The Work Horse model has been a long time gone, so I was happy to find a nice deck within a 2 hr. drive. I'll probably either keep it of drop it on the for sale page for a price in that range. As an aside, that old Work Horse is just that! I've been mowing with it (2 acres) since I bought it in a yard sale in '96. As I said, I did have to buy a deck, as the original rusted out. I also use it to skid logs out of the woods every year. I run a set of cut down car chains on it and it's a beast! Glad to be a member and hope to be able to contribute to the knowledge here.

Not much but I built a small ladder subframe to stiffen this thing up. Real flexy without it. It’s 1” square tube welded to leftover Attachamatic brackets. I’m remaking the side mount for the transmission as it was kinda temporary anyways. It will be a 1/4” thick by 3” wide steel plate that will span the subframe and then stick out for the trans mount. I want it all to be able to be removable with 3/8 bolts.