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Found an old netbook that I haven’t used in a loooong time. It stopped connecting to my wifi and I just gave up on it. Just got a new wifi provider and tried to connect and sure enough it did. Was able to send myself all sorts of pics that were stored on the netbook that I had forgotten about. None of these tractors are here in my collections anymore, kinda wish a couple of em were though. The D-160 was super nice! The Gt-1800 was a parts rig.. @AMC RULES has the Eaton 1100 rear now. The one with the ammo box was pretty much my first WH. Cobbled up but trusty!

I see a giant mis-use of name lawsuit here worth at least a billion... what do you guys think? Tony

Most schools lost power in the area today, the wind has been brutal!

Thought I'd do an update on the ol 1257. It hit 65 degrees today (feb 15th.).... only in upstate NY. I decided to paint up the wider rims I just got (used), going to buy new beefy tires next chance I get. Also re-painted the inner and outer wheel weights since they got banged around past few years. Also, I made a new coil-points wire, soldered some other wires, and threw in a little white paint on a few little things, for some reason I really like the white with the red. Oh and cant forget the muffler.... stack came off, this is from a 300 series i believe. Looks cleaner. I have more to do yet, but its coming along.

For us - Plastic Kroger HD Lowe's Menards and Meijer shopping bags when I play Lawn Ranger... No patent issues, greatly reduced smell and mess... "Free" by the bucketload... I will never buy a device to pick up our "manure spreader's" efforts... he's very prodigious!!! but i'm way cheaper...

Got your insurance adjuster coming over??

That green energy device didn't damage the did it???

What a great memory lane trip. I often go through my old collection of pictures to. I had some nice machines. We are considering selling our home by the beach, moving back to a 3/4 acre property. If we do that its wheel horse time again. I hope we do. The problem will be finding something "nice". Thanks for sharing those pictures.

Subframe with new transmission mount mostly complete. There will be one more crossmember for the rear of the 3 speed transmission. Haven’t gotten that far yet.

Been pretty windy here today as well. Nothing serious enough for power outages though. Batten down the hatches & ride it out safely Kevin.

All back together 👍 …. but I do see two holes I forgot to weld up.

I was happy as well! As well as tractors there were kids birthday party pics, some vacation pics….and my IROC!!

Nope. Very little stuff in this area. I’m searching the edges of the old pastures. It’s all woods now. I find quite a few old shotgun brass. All different and most 60-100 yr old. I found a broken cap gun about 5” deep in the woods and a bunch of spent lead. The dumps are where a detector is useless but with the new detectors and patience you can almost “see” what’s in the ground.

Does anyone collect these types of wrench’s? I found this one metal detecting an old farm. It’s all cleaned up and supposedly rare from what I can find online.

to the No need to worry. You just had the infamous Eaton 1100 burp.

Hey now. Mrs K just gave me that camera for my birthday...my 50th. That was only bout 5 or so years ago.

I also found some rare factory option gas tank spacers too!

I am still looking for that bracket, so check them buckets.

Not sure what it is Jim. Looking at the engine serial numbers, it looks like a 704 with a lawn ranger hood. A few other goodies.

Wow... Kodak... You stop by the Smithsonian and pick up a new camera...?

@Ed Kennell Your camera.

huh a while ago we had some crazy wind to but i was still able to put the three wheeler away safely

I need to transfer the right side, but it all looks like it’s going to fit!

All these C-160s just make me sick.

Nice looking 702 there, Mike. I too use the later curved front cutting deck - cuts a lot better than the old "suitcase" one I have....

The 1/4" Clevis pin and hair clip have worked pretty well on my Lawn ranger for 56 years...Comes out easy...

Doesn't hurt to check them with the torque wrench. If its not blown i wouldn't remove it

Yes, its so slick that surfaces you actually want to bed in, dont really do that. Same reason why they say to make sure theres no oily fingerprints or grease on flywheels and rotors on installation...because it can cause a weird bed-in result which will decide how well the parts perform over their lifetime.

Closest thing like that for me is the multi-wrench for the oxy-acetelene torch. Had all the sizes needed, but no bottle opener....

108501 listed for the hydro models but same dimensions as 7473 Next column in the chart above Transmission drive belt 108501 - (HB/5L x 81.50" or 5/8" x 81.5") Sure wish we had an original parts list for this one.

Everyone has an opinion on break-in on a new engine or rebuild...but the most important thing is not using synthetic oil or any synthetic additives, and once warmed up the first time and there's no leaks or noises...get a load on it for 10 or so minutes. There is a short window for ring/cylinder break-in, and a load helps to push the rings out harder against the cylinder. Excessive idling, and lack of load can lead to the crosshatch wearing down before the rings seat, this is called glazing and can lead to extended break-in and oil use. Last engine i built was a 20hp Command, i fired it up first time...set it to 2000, verified no leaks or noises then put it on full throttle and mowed an acre. Its a bit nerve wracking, not gonna lie... Then after 10hrs or so, oil change and your choice of oil..i like synthetics with lots of zinc (after break-in)

Straight from the Kohler rebuild manual.

Got a bracket for the 8-speed today I don't expect the magneto for the M10 or the valve cover and head gaskets for either of them until next week so I figured I might as well pull the dozer blade down and give it a once-over. I'll probably go ahead and fit it to the 8-speed while the motor is off. I wish I had taken pictures of the blade, it's been in storage for a long time and is a little rough but it's all there and looks like it still has good bones

I took it easy today. I rebuilt a hydraulic cylinder to go on the Bronco. It has one of the older welded cylinders that is leaking a little. I just rebuilt a newer spare and will swap them in a few days. Took it completely apart and soaked in hot water and degreaser. Then rinsed in hot water. Must be good stuff, because it took the paint off! The wipers on the plunger were completely disentigrated, so I'm glad I took the time to rebuild instead of just swapping as-is. Lubed all the new o-rings with dex/merc and it went back together with about 2.6 grunts. Wiped down and shot a coat of primer and paint. Not show quality, but hopefully will last another few years. Start to finish around 30 mins.

In my humble opinion, and at the risk of sounding pretentious, this "raisson d'etre" of hydraulic incontinence is as fine an introduction to this forum as any. Welcome! This is a great place to take a leak.

Umm. you're too lazy (or too old) to lean over and pick it up!

@Racinbob Didn't know that info on front axles, thanks!

If you are looking for oil don't overlook the diesel oils and that is the large print on the label. There is one that is still common and meets the CF and CF-2 specification for diesels. If you read the fine print you will also see it meets the SG specification for gas engines and replaces SF. Cx is compression or diesel Sx is spark for gasoline

I'm thinking you're getting the idea now Eric but here's another one just for kicks. All the decals are 1976 factory originals. The B-80 tower decals are missing because I took them off when I 'converted' it to a 160. My intensions are to get some 'B-160' but I just haven't done it yet.

Let me know what unit you have. Depending on the controller, I may be able to get you info on changing the exercise time length.

Scary! I use bolts and nylocks on the hoods all the time. Improves alignment when closing and eliminates hood rattling too. There's no more wear in the pivot afterwards either.

lol dirty I have yet to Wash it it’s still a bit chilly here in PA and I just put touch up paint on any spots since she’s a work horse more than for show

Agreed. Those appear to be the later 70s decals. Nice rig though! I remember reading about this but not the reasoning. I think we have a set around here too but they're pretty rough.

@ebinmaine Eric I think @Blasterdad and @squonk nailed it. I don’t think my C-160 is original as far as paint and decals. I’ll send you some better pictures when it’s light out!

That's hilarious. Having broke a steering wheel last week myself, I completely understand. I think I'll use a long 1/4 bolt next time. At least it can be drilled out!

Also you should retorque the head bolts after the first time you run the engine up to operating temperature.

I like to braze!! I can do it so much better than stick or mig.... I recently had to attach a plumbing elbow to an existing hyd oil return pipe and knew it would take .... "stacking?" of the brass around the rather loose join, which I think this is what you are needing to do. I pretty quickly found that the motion? of the flame - in/out/in/out was giving me the 'stacking' (building up the amount of brass) that I wanted to be sure I had built up a good strong join. Turned out pretty well! This may very well not help your situation with the much smaller pieces which will heat and cool so fast. A smaller tip may be a help here..... I use plain rods with Borax (yes, the kitchen stuff!) as flux, my dad was a jeweler and he occasionally used brass and he taught me this. Just heat the tip of the rod and stick it in the powder and it will stick to the rod.

I would compromise with the manual and run 10w-30 syn if you don't have severe low temps. I would also up the exercise at least 20 minutes a week. Oil change every year and a half maybe sooner depending on run hours/power outages. No unless you have leakage.

That's jewelers work Ollie. I think the torch you are using is a bit heavy. Also the rod... yes way too heavy. A small rod would be better no larger than 1/16 maybe even smaller. Check melting and flow temps. He might have use a silver solder which can have a goldish appearance. Very expensive tho and sold by the troy ounce. The trick is to get the base metal to the right temp then let the the filler "drip" on the nails. It's a art but trial and error you will get it. My other advice is buy your wife some expensive jewelry from a pro then pump him for info like a well handle...