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lol dirty I have yet to Wash it it’s still a bit chilly here in PA and I just put touch up paint on any spots since she’s a work horse more than for show

My daughter is a tattoo artist. I commissioned her to draw my yard art and the E-141. Thought they turned out pretty darn cool!

Hhhmmm... let me think... uhm... nope. If God wanted me to have a "on" my butt instead of "under" my butt, it'd be there already... I got my 's right where I want em...

My engine seems to have lost spark, I think my magniloquent kaput.

Good point, the load should have been firmly attached to the sturdy radio antenna.

That could get expensive in a hurry with one of the new vehicles where the mirrors turn inward when the key is turned off. Crunch!

She gonna tat ‘em on your butt cheeks?

So all this glazing talk has nuttin to do with donuts?!! Crud

My brother owns a 633 which is a nice 1963 Wheel Horse. I used it several years to plow snow with at my house in Greencastle , Indiana. The six hp Kohler recoil start motor, the metal tool box (Where the battery for an electric start would normally be) and front aluminum gas tank are features of this tractor. I used a front reel mower and a snowplow on it and it was great for these functions!

I believe that the frame is the same length. Diggin' deep into my memory bank here so I might be wrong, but I think that the lower mount on the hood is different to accommodate the longer hood. I do know this for certain: The only reason that the hood is longer on a 854 is to make room for the thicker air cleaner on the K181. If you run a narrower air filter from a K161 you will not need the longer hood. The narrower air cleaner will not effect the way that the engine runs at all.

Made a sign for my light box I picked up a while back. Old X-ray cabinet. Maybe one day I’ll have somewhere to hang it.

The pompous Green Garden Tractor sales person used magniloquent highfaluting grandiloquent terms in futile attempt to evoke the proposition that it was as good as a Wheel Horse!

🤔 The language taught to double glazing salesmen and politicians?🤔

I watched a couple of idiots load four sheets of 1/2" plywood on the roof of a car and tie it off with some of the twin you can find at the check out of Home Cheepo. They didn't even make it out of the parking lot before the plywood was taking flight. On another occasion I was having lunch at a fast food place and looked out the window just in time to see the feature event. A pick-up with a ladder rack had about a dozen sheets of drywall on the rack. The compact car in front of them stopped to avoid a collision and became a bity more compact when all of that drywall slid off the ladder rack on top of the car.

Not much but I built a small ladder subframe to stiffen this thing up. Real flexy without it. It’s 1” square tube welded to leftover Attachamatic brackets. I’m remaking the side mount for the transmission as it was kinda temporary anyways. It will be a 1/4” thick by 3” wide steel plate that will span the subframe and then stick out for the trans mount. I want it all to be able to be removable with 3/8 bolts.

Seen this the other day, made sure I left before they did. Some excuses for this come to mind such as..." I wasn't going very far ", " Seemed like a good idea at the time ", " I don't know, I was drunk ". Stay alert people, they are out there....

My favorite pedal of all three.

Post gen x anti-theft device. 😜

Not to mention improperly secured load ticket, lawsuits, ect...

to the Wayne An excellent 48" SD in my area would sell for $250 - $350. Excellent.... means good original paint and decals, good blades, good quiet spindles, no rust, good anti scalp rollers and height wheels, good belt and tension pulley.

I think you should re-‘COIL’ from any, possibly, unnecessary purchases of the expensive kind, until you have made a complete, thorough, and comprehensive investigation of possible reasons for this issue. If, after following all ‘LEADS’, everything still ‘POINTS’ to the ‘MAG’ being at fault, only then should you consider purchasing a replacement!

You may want to take a look at what condenser you are using. Here is a bit of information about them. The Kohler 230722 Condenser fits all battery ignition single cylinder and twin cylinder from the K-90 to the K-582. The 235786 condensers are for the magneto equipped Kohler engines only K-161 to K-301 The unit of measure for a condenser is the Farad. Many electronic components like radios and TVs use capacitors that are in the microfarad range (ten to the minus six power Farads) and our small engines use a condenser that is in the nanofarad range (ten to the minus ninth power Farads) which is based on the voltage range they work in. A magneto ignition system uses a 100 to 250 nF condenser and a battery ignition system uses a 200 to 500 nF condenser. A good multi-meter will have a capacitor testing function. Armed with this information you can walk into your auto parts store and get a very confused look on the face of the person on the other side of the counter. The capacitance is not listed on the package and probably not in any of the on-line data they have for the condensers they stock. You just have to go by the application chart and be sure that the condenser you are buying is for the type ignition system your engine has, not just the horsepower or engine size. If an engine idles well, but runs erratically when revved up, like it hits and misses, pops and backfires, then chances are, it needs a new condenser/capacitor. And always install a condenser/capacitor with the wire facing downward so rain water and/or when washing off engine, water will not enter inside condenser/capacitor, ruining it. With water inside the condenser, this will also allow it to idle well, but cause it to run erratically when revved up. What is a farad (F)? A farad (F) is the standard unit of capacitance (C) in the International System of Units (SI). It indicates the ability of a substance to hold an electric charge. The value of most electrical capacitors is expressed in farads, microfarads (µF) or nanofarads (nF)

Figured out how to mount the switch for the HL-5 head lights I put on my L107 with out drilling any hole in her.. As i pointed out earlier she has electric start but no charging system so ran a test today. Charged the battery a 3yr old 300 cca to 12.55v. turned the lights on and left her for an hour. Battery was down to 12.15 volts but started her up no problem. Rarely do night work and would probably never need an hour of light. so this is a success...

Like this "contractor".

When I was about 8 growing up in the capital city, there was some wahoo with a rolled up lineoleum 12 footer stuck diagonally out the passengers front window. Rounded the corner at an intersection, spanked a telephone pole with it - the 12 footer was now a 9 !!!

Seat o' the pants - wait for the dance. Often teamed up with the calibrated Eyecrometer....

The 8 filter is smaller diameter but thicker . 7 filter is thinner but a larger diameter. Filter area is probably close to the same.

When I put the six speed in "Hot Wheels" ,now owned by @Pullstart, fifteen or so years ago I drilled and tapped a hole in the transaxle mount to line up with the hole near the lift cylinder pivot. Had to slightly elongate another hole in the plate but don't remember which one. The case for the transaxle wass empty when I drilled and tapped it.

Good point. They'll be out of rain snow line up under there. Hopefully if I @peter lena grease the terminals well they should be ok.

Drive is easy - get a larger bore pulley. PTO... I'll wait to hear... edit: kpinnc types fast!

I left the tunnel tirm piece out and put one bend in the shifter. Also I put in a 8 pinion diff instead of the bevel gear. The small side of the trans I just drilled and tapped a new mounting hole in the case.

The early 953 like yours came with a straight 1/4" key-way, the 1054 has a Woodruff key but it is the larger #RX (1/4" X 2 3/4"). That seems like the right thing to do. The rear-end came off the line with flex top lock nuts, McMaster-Carr part number 94830A132 is a direct replacement. Zinc Yellow-Chromate Plated Hex Head Screw, Grade 8 Steel, 3/8"-16 Thread Size, 4" Long, Partially Threaded 91257A640 1 Pack of 10 $10.97 Pack $10.97 2 Steel Thin Flex-Top Locknut For Heavy Vibration, 3/8"-16 Thread Size 94830A132 2 Packs of 5 7.49 Pack 14.98

There have been two days I can remember since this beginning, where I ate breakfast and did not intermittent fast. Once my bowels and other body parts filled up a bit more, I settled back up to around 191 for the last week or so. Still a good win! Mrs. P and I started the DDP Yoga and it whooped me! It’s breathing and stretching, but I couldn’t believe his techniques, and how your simple muscle resistance can make you sore! Did you know that stretching makes blood vessels and muscles rush with fresh blood, like yawning is a blast of oxygen to your brain? Today, I’m back into the 180’s at 189.4. Feeling great still too!

Excellent usage of the Olde British English synonym there ladies and gentlemen

Not sure on a part number, but I know it came out of a 1054, pulled it out of the scrap yard myself for the rear end and the hydraulic lift. I used the other side and the axles for my 8 speed in my 953.

NOW I WANT DONUTS!!!

Hi, new guy here. I have an old Wheel Horse "Work Horse" that I love. I mow and plow with it. I also picked up a 520-H with a snowblower in excellent condition for the deep stuff.(sold my plow truck) Anyway, the 520 also came with a 48" side discharge deck which I have no use for. Mo. 78360. I'd like some idea what to ask for it. It's in excellent condition like the tractor. TIA

Honestly, my butt dyno has never felt the difference…

That's what were made for! Calendar shot right ther Thompson... I gotta say we all get asked what our favorite model year is. I'm just gonna say from here on out any year model as long as it was barned and taken care of. Still gonna lean towards pre '69 SG models.

Sorry @Achto, but I’m convinced that if there was no difference in performance then Kohler would not have used the larger air cleaner and WH would certainly have avoided the expense of the unique hood and altered hood mount. The smaller air cleaner significantly lessens the amount of permeable area of the filter. As the filter gets dirty, the difference would be even more pronounced. I’ll grant that many users may never notice the difference, depending on how they use their tractor.

I have never owned an 854, or the hood from one, but I loaned my front hanging weight to @PeacemakerJack and @Coulter Caleb for a plow day one year and it did not fit as easy near the bottom of the hood as it did my 502, sporting a ‘64 frame (604?) The frame holes were all the same however, but we never measured the length of the frames.

Your standard home dishwasher heater will probably only raise the water temp maybe 30° if you're lucky, so if you're pumping only 60° water into it you might squeak out 90°. Commercial dishwater booster heaters only raise the temp about 40 ° and cost about 3 grand so unless you start out at 120-130° water temp you're not gonna clean squat. Steam on steam cleaners don't really clean. But the high temp softens the grease so the water pressure and detergent can clean it.

I suggested this Ritchie ... he says he's up for the challenge to run what he brung... We just can't get anything over ole greasy Pete can we!

Congrats on a great job Pullstart! The mental discipline it takes to do what you are doing is awesome. Now that you are on this path you can moderate your diet to match your goals. Keeping the sugar out, eating more lean meats, fish, vegetables and fruits will help you maintain that goal along with exercise. The way your body is telling you how much better you feel and the success you experience stepping on the scale are the benefits that will pay off a long time! I just turned 70, eat healthy, fast annually, take vitamins and supplements and need NO meds of any kind. We can do a lot just by how we eat and with enough activity and exercise.

Well… there’s plenty of room for a larger tire on a round hood if that’s what you’re asking. As for fitment without modification, if the wheel doesn’t quite fit the spindle, I believe you can swap the spindles as well onto the 704. It ‘63, the “new” front axle design came out, lasting practically forever.

A (Pre-Valentine) Haiku Magniloquent How I yearn for a harem Beyond the counting And a more traditional one: 's are red Others are spent My thoughts of are all Magniloquent

someone has been in both of them , they should be a woodruff key.

After getting some chores done and going for a great 4 mile walk we tackled a few things on the tractor this afternoon. First thing, greased the front axle, spindles, and heim joint tie rods. Trina found the ID tag for the side of the tractor. Cleaned it up best she could and used black paint and marker to purrty it up. She then riveted that in it's proper place. In my professional world it's an issue to have hydraulic hoses touching anything when they can move around much. A few days ago I had made a note to protect and fasten mine. They're wrapped with a denim sleeve and zip tied with that and to each other. Much better. Trina removed the ignition coil and condenser. Moved them down a set of holes, reattached and repainted the scratches. In the process she relocated the condenser and turned it on its end. Better protection for that and also MUCH neater looking from the side of the tractor. We finished up installing the choke cable holder. Also installed the throttle cable and it's holders. Trina disassembled and cleaned up the cigar lighter plug, then installed it. That'll be my power source for the 2 flashing yellow/amber lights. She popped the choke knob on. I cleaned the light switch, ignition switch, key and key chain and installed them. The key chain is from a newspaper in Florida. I know the PO had a house there somewhere. Not sure if the tractor ever did. How's 'bout some accessory lighting???

In 1963 the 603 was a very base model with a 6hp pull start Tecumseh engine. The 653 came with a 6hp electric start Tecumseh engine. The 633 came with a 6hp pull start Kohler. Looking through the different models most tractor under 7hp were equipped with a Tecumseh engine, with the exception of some 4hp models and the 633. It has been my theory that got a deal on some Kohler K141's and installed them in the 653 chassis. Then relabeled the tractor as a 633. I believe that the 603 & the 633 had the lowest production numbers in 1963.

With work & other things getting in my way I have only been getting basically one day a week to work on the project. This weekend's goal was to get the Ross box ready. The Ross box that was in this tractor was from a Cub Cadet and the shaft was on inch short for this application. @WHX?? was nice enough to set me up with a Ross box that was correct for a 953 but it had some damage. The goal - make one good set up out of the two. A pic of the correct Ross box that I got from Jim. You can see that the bottom has some chunks missing and one of the threaded mounting holes is damaged. I removed the shaft and the tube from both steering boxes Unfortunately both tubes were damaged during this process but luckily I had a tube from a bed frame that had the correct outside diameter that I could cut to the correct length. I do kind of wish that I could have used the steering shaft from the Cub Cadet. Looking at the picture below the CC shaft had a better reduction than the one. CC on the right on the left. One thing that I could use from the CC box was the bottom cap. This cap is used to set the end play on the bearings. Once set there is a cotter pin installed to keep the nut/cap from backing out. The CC cap has more notches to allow for finer tuning of the end play. The cap/nut for the only has a strait slot which does not allow as fine of tuning for the bearing end play. In the pic below the Cub Cadet cap is the upper one, is the lower one. After a bunch of work, I now have a good Ross box that will fit & work as it should on my tractor. Other than this the only thing that I accomplished was getting a few more parts sand blasted.