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Popular Content
Showing content with the highest reputation on 02/12/2023 in Posts
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12 points
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10 points
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9 pointsFigured out how to mount the switch for the HL-5 head lights I put on my L107 with out drilling any hole in her.. As i pointed out earlier she has electric start but no charging system so ran a test today. Charged the battery a 3yr old 300 cca to 12.55v. turned the lights on and left her for an hour. Battery was down to 12.15 volts but started her up no problem. Rarely do night work and would probably never need an hour of light. so this is a success...
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9 pointsAfter playing with the points, and finally setting them at a loose .010", I was getting spark again. So I put the whole thing back together, spun her over, and she fired right up. It will only run on about half choke, so I am going to clean and rebuild the carb. Thanks everyone for your help. I think this old guy really needs this tiller. I thing tilling gardens and doing yard work is pretty much how he supports himself Thanks again. Greg
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8 pointsAgreed. And koozies are the best solution I've found for those danged red tubes.
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8 pointsTook HHHOOOWWWAAARRRDDD!!! for a ride around the block.
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8 pointsfor helping this guy out. Its people like you that make Red Square the great forumn that it is.
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7 pointsSo even though we don't have snow yet, I'm still working on my 875 that I use for plowing. This tractor I wanted to hook up a rotating yellow safty light to it. It didn't have a cigarette lighter on it so installed one today. Had to drill a hole just under the dash on the console. Wired it up to the battery. Works and looks great. As @PullstartALWAYS says..... " Safty First !! "
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7 pointsAnother VERY busy day! We did a fair amount of experimenting with fluid filling tires. We tried a few ways to connect. We spilled some. We laughed like he**. π We learned a lot. We now have the rear tires filled with just under 7.5 gallons in one, just over that in the other. Here we have the tire hanging from the chain falls. Worked ok. Here we tried to set the wheel on its side over a 5 gallon pail. That's the ticket. I found an exhaust clamp by sheer lucky accident. I wire brushed it and Trina painted it. After drying we installed the hood so I could line up the muffler direction. Here's the nice bright shiny RED hood. My Local Artist and Woodworking Specialist painted the "Kohler" on the engine and used JB Weld to hold the motion control lever extension in place. Here she is digging the paint outta the grease fittings. Tie rods are all adjusted to 1/8" toe/tow in/inn and tightened up. WIIIIIIDE REAR !! Auto measures 41" across the outside of the rear tires.
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6 pointsThey are all over where I live. Boys grow up and decide I want a business and BOOM another furniture place. Same thing with small engine shops. There are 5 or 6 in the Penn Yan area all along the same road within a couple of miles from each other. There is an Amish guy down the road from me with an engine shop and farm store. his store has more stuff in it than any Tractor Supply. His wife runs the counter and knows more than most of the customers. It cracks me up when I go there. Store is dark and there is a bunch of Dewalt battery operated lanterns hanging from the ceiling for lights. They have a phone but they don't answer it. They have an answering service take the messages and they call back when "they get around to it. " Guy is a great welder. He welded a small block Kohler for me.
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6 pointsHad a load of gravel delivered today to fill a couple of pot holes in the driveway & smooth it out a little, hope I got enough...
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5 pointsDid you ever fix the running problem or do you like watching that light revolve in the garage like a disco?
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5 pointsIn my experience with how far this stuff goes, a "copious amountβ is about Β½ of a water drop! And be ready with rags to wipe it off unintended surfaces!
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5 pointsYes. On route 97 going south between Gettysburg and Littlestown is an Amish farm. In the summer they have a roadside stand and sell produce. One of the boys has a bicycle with a cart that he uses to bring the produce up to the road. I frequently drive that road and quite often encounter Amish buggies. It's not like the area where Ed lives, but the Gettysburg area does have Amish.
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5 points@Blasterdad I probably should have left well enough alone, but I didnβt. I started with liberal amounts of penetrating fluid for about 12 hrs. Then went at the pin with a hammer and punch. I had a bar wedged between the wheel collar and the work bench which is against the wall. I cracked the plastic base of the wheel in the process. Then I used a wood chisel to finish splitting that crack open. With the pin and metal wheel base now fully visible I can see that I had mushroomed the pin and thatβs why it wouldnβt move anymore. So, I ground the pin down to the metal wheel base and then used an air hammer to drive it most of the way out. A few hits with the punch and it was free. I took the metal wheel base off the steering shaft with a puller. So, I doβd it. If it looks like this when ur dun then u dun gud. Wrecked my back, but after a good nights sleep I feel fine. Glad I donβt have to keep working on that again today! Good riddance! I bought another original wheel from @A-Z Tractor and itβs out in the barn waiting to go on, but I donβt think I want to put a roll pin back in there. I might replace the roll pin with a bunch of toothpicks. @oliver2-44 I just bought a set of carbide ceramic/glass drill bits a few months ago. I didnβt think they would work on steel. Maybe should have researched some more!
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5 pointsWow, cool job and there's quite a bit going on in a modern cockpit. Never mind all those unimportant lights, dials and switches, is that a simple low tech sun visor wrapped in the red knit? How do you do high power engine runs? Simulated take offs or...?
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5 pointsOnce had a K91 acting like that. Spark was OK with the plug out laying on the head but it would always loose spark with the plug installed. Drove me nuts! Adjusting the points at very small intervals solved the problem somehow. It ended up pretty far off of .020 Guessing it was because of a weak spark (Coil maybe?) because it was always a soft orange, never got near that nice sharp snapping blue spark.
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5 pointsNC weather is bleeping crazy! Lived here all my life and still am not accustomed to it.
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5 pointsLooking good! You should always point the condensor down so water doesn't run into it...
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4 points
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4 pointsThis weekend's agenda was the transmission. As I stated earlier the tranny that I got with this tractor had damage to the hitch pin mounting hole on the right hand tranny case. Started out with 2 tranny's with the hope of making one today. First thing make a couple piles of parts. Both tranny's were from a 953 tractor but I noticed some differences. First, one had longer key ways cut into the axle. The one with longer keyways also had a woodruff key way cut into the opposite side of the axle. Why 2 key ways. One differential had castle nuts that were wired together, the other one had lock nuts on the diff. Here is one that really threw me. One tranny had bearings for the out board portion of the axle. The other had bushings. Had a talk with Lowell about the bearing / bushing thing. He suggested that some one may have use a regular 3 speed case that would have had 1" axles. To get the 1 1/8" axles to work they must have installed bushings. Relocated upper mounting holes for the tranny to F plate kind of confirms this theory. Of course there are some parts to sort through. Like this great looking cluster gear for instance. As far as the bearing / bushing issue, I'm still weighting my options. Install the bushings and run it or bore the cases out to 1 3/8" so that I can use bearings instead. Right now I'm considering boring the cases out so that I can install bearings.
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4 points
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4 pointsMade some progress today and probably have my work cut out for me. I'd really like to get this together to push dirt that I till up with the 161, even though this might not be the smartest thing to do given the relatively low HP and 1" axles on the 8-speed. Regardless, I went ahead and pulled the ailing 301 off for who knows what down the road. I ordered valve cover gasket s, a head gasket, and a few other things for the M10 yesterday and pulled it off the 8-speed parts tractor today. I snapped one of the shroud bolts off and found some damage to wiring so I'll get back on the AGAIN. I don't plan on doing much beyond de-carbon and valve adjustment but we'll see. Clean-up is first on the list. I can't see how it was cooling very well as cruddy as it is and that's a little concerning, but the majority of that is low on the block so I'm hoping that the top side looks good when I pull the head. Done for today though.
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4 pointsI think i fixed it but i do like turning my garage into a disco too!!! I think it was the wire that runs from the points to the coil
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4 points
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4 pointsThanks guys i thought you wouldn't remember my birthday Kevin but yesterday i had a fun time i went snowmobiling and i rode my powder special we went to out cabin and then my uncle mikes cabin i rode all of his old sleds and i saw this 1990s Polaris 500 Indy two seater and i said how much you want for it and he said free it doesnt work it has a ruined crank case or something so it moves but it goes clank clank clank clank. so i got a snowmobile then my uncle mike gave me 100$!! to put towards my tractor or the Indy 500 then i went home opened my cards and received 60 bucks from my grandparents and i got a tool kit from my dad that i can use on Reese and we will be picking up the Briggs and Stratton soon. You guys will love my cake it has the wheel horse logo on it!!! i wish i could upload a pic but i cant but I've had a good day so thanks everyone for the birthday wishes!!! Kollin
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4 pointsI think you did the right thing by replacing the wheel. A cracked one would drive me crazy(er) ! Iβd apply copious amounts of anti-seize to the pin and the shaft so if thereβs a next time itβll be a bit easier!
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4 pointsThanks Bill. Uuhhhhhhh. No sir. I'm smahter'n 'at. I had her glue it on so it's not available for that usage. π
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4 pointsLots of that in many Michigan towns... All that remains of once thriving industries... sadly, many just sit and rot. At least this can be repurposed as crushed stone...
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4 pointsI donβt spend more than a few minutes to try to drive pins out. I learned from @Achto to use a carbide glass/ceramic drill bit. I spray some penetrant as I drill to keep bit cool. Works great!
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3 pointsAfter getting some chores done and going for a great 4 mile walk we tackled a few things on the tractor this afternoon. First thing, greased the front axle, spindles, and heim joint tie rods. Trina found the ID tag for the side of the tractor. Cleaned it up best she could and used black paint and marker to purrty it up. She then riveted that in it's proper place. In my professional world it's an issue to have hydraulic hoses touching anything when they can move around much. A few days ago I had made a note to protect and fasten mine. They're wrapped with a denim sleeve and zip tied with that and to each other. Much better. Trina removed the ignition coil and condenser. Moved them down a set of holes, reattached and repainted the scratches. In the process she relocated the condenser and turned it on its end. Better protection for that and also MUCH neater looking from the side of the tractor. We finished up installing the choke cable holder. Also installed the throttle cable and it's holders. Trina disassembled and cleaned up the cigar lighter plug, then installed it. That'll be my power source for the 2 flashing yellow/amber lights. She popped the choke knob on. I cleaned the light switch, ignition switch, key and key chain and installed them. The key chain is from a newspaper in Florida. I know the PO had a house there somewhere. Not sure if the tractor ever did. How's 'bout some accessory lighting???
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3 pointsDisclaimer: I'm NO scientist and have never set up a true equal test. I firmly believe that successfully removing rusty bolts is a result of patience, time and care in movement. I've tried several name brand penetrating oils over the years. In my own experiences... Kroil was the clear winner. Liquid Wrench Penetrating Oil and WD-40 PENETRATING FLUID were similar in results. PB as a penetrant has given me poor results from the get go. Looking at the bolts as they come out there's very little actual fluid penetration from it. For the record I do use and recommend another PB product that's an engine/carb cleaner degunkerizer. Great for diagnostics.
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3 points
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3 pointsWhy don't you like the blaster? I use it with decent results. The guy that invented the adjustable spray nozzle on it should be made a saint!
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3 pointsitβs been the mildest winter since I got here in β92. Weβll undoubtedly get some more snow but the worst is over. Already seeing bugs flying and crawling around. π¬ππ
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3 points
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3 pointsThey are some digging beasts. I got to plow snow with the c-120 and those versa turfs and damn they hook up real good
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3 pointsKroil is great stuff but it's three times the price of Liquid Wrench π§ and that keeps me from buying it or even looking for it. A friend of mine who's a truck tech gave me a spray can a few years ago and it worked great.
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3 points
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3 pointsThat's a Colossal achievement. It's looking really good. Ever thought of opening a garden tractor restoration shop? Open only in the winter months. Very exclusive.
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3 pointsCool thread , Ill be following . I have a 72 that was just cleaned up and gone through mechanically . It's just used for chores around the house .
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3 pointsMy point was that the places with the most crud are typically also the most vulnerable to water intrusion. And I agree- immediately change the oil, even if it looks ok. Same goes for the tranny if washing the whole tractor.
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3 pointsIn 1963 the 603 was a very base model with a 6hp pull start Tecumseh engine. The 653 came with a 6hp electric start Tecumseh engine. The 633 came with a 6hp pull start Kohler. Looking through the different models most tractor under 7hp were equipped with a Tecumseh engine, with the exception of some 4hp models and the 633. It has been my theory that got a deal on some Kohler K141's and installed them in the 653 chassis. Then relabeled the tractor as a 633. I believe that the 603 & the 633 had the lowest production numbers in 1963.
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3 points
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3 pointsI havenβt been following this thread too diligently. Did you pick that up in the woods of the Vacation State behind your abode?
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3 points
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3 pointsI saw that, and maybe up to 6" or so at elevation. The wife and I considered taking a day or two for a last-chance ski outing but she can't get away and I really can't afford the time right now either. Hunker down and I hope y'all don't get handed a mess.
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3 points
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3 pointsWhat a great idea, you inspired me to do the same. Took one of the C-81's for a nice cruise....
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3 pointsIt was a good day. A rock shaft and tiller belt came in the mail so I got to work Went over to the shop and wrenched a bit on the 161. The rock shaft went in fine so I went ahead and got the bracket bolted up and got the tiller in line. It took some fiddling to get the lift and chain adjusted to get enough travel. I cleaned up the tank, got it reinstalled and mounted the PTO and belt. Buttoned it up and it's finally ready to cut some dirt