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Got up to 70 degrees here today, so when I got home from work I got the herd out for a gallop around the neighborhood… The new to me 1977 C-160 had to stay behind and wait while I exercised the 1984 Work Horse GT-1600, and the 1994 520H… Then I lined them up so they could horse around a bit before they were put back in the horse barn. IMG_2085.MOV IMG_2086.MOV

Put the Mule back together with the Lucas Green packed bearings.

You may need to neuter one of those. They seem to be multiplying...

Since we fixed @WheelHorse_Kid‘s sticky clutch pedal yesterday we put tire chains on it and he installed a trailer ball into the hitch for our firewood trailer. Our plan is to use that as our wood hauler for the rest of the winter. Even tho I’m hopeful it will stop snowing it will Be muddy for awhile yet and will help with traction. Funny thing with the chains. When I installed them on my Bronco 14 with the 2 stage about a month ago I could not find a matching set to save my life. Tore my garage apart and looked in the shed. Had 2 that were similar to each other but not exactly the same. Tonight when we went to install the chains I had set aside I figured out they were too small. Not sure where I got those. Alex went to take the tire chains off his 308-8 project tractor and asked for some help. I walked out to it and went to spin the tire and was stepping on something. Lo and behold it was 2 tire chains in the leaves. Sure enough they were the matches to the mismatched ones on the bronco 14. We installed both on the C-121 and both agreed that in the spring when they come off we will put them all together and hang them up.

Never checked compression. Towards the end of mowing season last year the exhaust smoke would chase away every mosquito in a 2 block radius. Bonus built in fogger but embarrassing for a guy that fancy's himself as a small engine guy.

Put a rebuilt carb and fuel pump on the 310-8 parts tractor and it ran well. That Magnum 10 will move over to the 312-8 310-8 and the remounted treads at the tire shop should put this recovery unit back in operation . Not sure yet what its role will be but it will definitely have one

I hung out in the garage with @WheelHorse_Kid when he got home. He pulled his c-121 up and we worked on getting his sticky clutch pedal to work smooth. Watched him teach his older brother how to grease the front end on his 856.

Some pictures , I don’t want to repaint them or so. They all turn and ride . No intention to restore.

Well folks. After setting this project aside for a good solid year both mentally and physically so I could focus on the barn shop garage dojo storage area build, I've contacted summit tech and I'm going to be ordering an Auburn Gear Grip-N-Loc complete differential. Fingers crossed, maybe I can put a couple miles on this truck this year. Get some of the other bugs worked out.

What is interesting about the 76/77 C-160 rear fender pan is that it is the same one used on the 76/77 B-60, B-80, B-100, C-120, and C-160. The mounting holes for the tail light was on all of them, and because the B-60/80/100 had no lights, the Wheel Hoese decal was placed over top of the holes.

Any room to put a larger engine in it? Binford brand possibly?

Philippe 52 y o . owner of a Lawn Ranger 1968 , Commando 7 1969 , Raider 10 1970 ,Raider 10 1971 , B165 1981 . also 3/4 Raider 10 1972 and Some spareparts , and a original Wh wagon . The sound of a one cylinder Köhler is like music , thats my addiction . Greetz

Air Start. A beautiful truck. @Rob J.

I was warned that might happen…

Firing up the 40 yr old M-35 at 6 below you had to use the preheater. Basically an internal blowtorch that blew into the intake manifold. Problem at F tCarson 5,500 feet the air was thin the preheater burned off too much oxygen wouldn't start while it was running. Manual said do not operate preheater with out cranking engine so you cranked away then shut off the preheater and hoped the batteries were holding up. A Better Shotgun start....

Shall we debate best starter types?

C-160, narrow tower, big block Kohler K341 mounted to frame, gas tank under the hood, hydraulics mounted outside of tower, deeper offset front wheels. 1978 C-161, straight tower, hydraulics moved inside tower, first year of gas tank under the seat, battery moved into tower, first year of shaker plate engine mount, Kohler K-341 shallow oil pan engine, shallower offset front wheels, two tailights vs. one. Lip on front of footrest wider, removed turtle/rabbit - slow/fast from dashplate & electric clutch hole, replaced with Idle/Operate. Love them both.

I’m sure a few tractors have been stopped with a shotgun shell, but never heard of one started with a shotgun shell…😆

@Pullstart Stables Motto for cars:

A couple weeks back I was working on a race car trailer. I did some electrical, lighting, and exhaust work on the genny. The guy has a 2011 F**d Taurus that needs some front end cosmetics and an engine. We might make a handshake for it as payment, and put an engine in it for a driver’s training vehicle… and maybe road tripper. It still blue books well. If anything, I could flip it for a good profit.

Two points I'll comment on. 1. Quality. My daughter in law works for JLG (lifts). She is responsible for sourcing steel. They will not use any recycled or imported steel due to failures. Therefore, their equipment is top of the line and costs more. You can be sure that the materials used in those off-brand switches are not quality. 2. PayPal. I have used PayPal since they were know as X.com. Never any problems with them. I do not leave any more than $50 in my account. It's not worth the risk, and with online savings accounts now paying almost 4%, that's where my money goes. We seem to have gotten off the subject of crap switches, so I'll say that I've never had any problems with ignition switches from NAPA.

That was my first thought when reading your post. Rubber is TOXIC when it burns & almost impossible to put out. There is no way it would pass code, more than likely illegal even. You could end up being criminally liable.

These had "ez spin" compression release which was a bump ground into the exhaust lobe on the cam, briggs never published any compression numbers because a healthy engine will blow low compression. Briggs says remove the plug wire and spin the engine backwards by hand..if it sharply bounces off the compression stroke..it adequate to run

Maybe Steve put grade five back in there? During all of our restorations I buy as much grade 8 Hardware as possible including all the washers and nuts. Bolt Depot in Hingham Massachusetts is where I get all of my supplies and they state 33 lb for coarse thread 3/8. I have an old needle type torque wrench. I tend to go a dash on the high side so... I put mine about 35 lb.

Ah, c'mon man, we can tell you really just want the carpeted garage

Any of your herd?

Got that covered too...

Thanks to all replies. Answers some questions I had....why my Dad's many spare parts included the rubber shock mounts for the motor. He always believed in having spares and never threw anything away. Also, I now have pics of a WH with a tiller and snow blower attached. Have the tiller but no snow blower, hmmm might need one of them, if they could only blow leaves!

BEFORE removing a 'vent bolt', if that is the chosen method, BE CERTAIN to clean away all the dust- dirt- and any other crud laying around the area of that chosen bolt. These Sundstrand units are VERY sensitive to even minute particles of debris and critical damage can occur to soft brass internal parts of BOTH the hyd pump and the hyd motor. NOTE... Before pouring in new fluid, also wipe off the top of the fill tube...and/or the funnel. If a new filter is being installed, wipe off the area around the base of the old filter BEFORE removing it. Finally thourghly wipe off the trans case side BEFORE spinnnig on a new filter. (Lecture over).

This is what I got... I see no provisions on the block for starter mounting tho.

Throw a new mill under the hood, build a big brush guard for the front & turn 'em loose on the road.

Need to look up using spec number. Item 10 a wild guess https://www.partstree.com/models/k301-47140-kohler-k-series-engine-made-for-rogers-mfg-12hp-9kw/exhaust-0211012910-13/

Ditto - a tip - do NOT link your Paypal to your Credit Card, unless it is used specificaly as a dedicated card for just that. I opened a seperate savings account at the Credit Union for mine - keep about $6 in it, transfer money into it about 45 seconds before I pay for something with Paypal. Oh yeah, that $6 IS insured!! Same goes if someone pays me thru Paypal - once the funds are there, I shuffle them off to the Credit Union into another insured account...

I'm thinking somebody was in a massive amount of trouble. I don't know of any type of foam, spray or otherwise, that doesn't require a fire barrier. This house uses what's called an 'Ice Block' basement wall. A steel structure encapsulated with foam. There was no fire barrier at all. I have no clue how they got a CO when it was built. Well, I do but I won't go there. The sellers were having a hard time selling it saying it was because everyone wanted a finished basement. I knew that was 100% BS. Even a home inspector with their worthless inspections would catch the dangerous situation that existed. If there would have been a fire down there you wouldn't have had to worry about getting out. The fumes would have killed you before the fire did and you likely wouldn't have made it to the door. The minute we moved in I hauled some 70 sheets of drywall and got to covering it up. Nothing else mattered until that was done. Again @Adelie check out the sound batts I'm referring. They are often even specified for fire walls in apartments. Don't cut corners there.

Awhile back, 10 or more years ago, folks were using their Paypal Accounts as a "savings" account - it paid a higher interest rate than banks and credit unions - BUT it was not insured. Quite a few accounts got hacked, wiped out, and the real folks had no recourse to recoup their loses.... Paypall addressed this - I still believe your funds are at risk, not insured. But they limited the amount you can have, but no more interest...

Yes, the B's and C's in 76 & 77 were identical body and frame wise. The headlight kit was optional. Apparently the decal placement was at the whim of the installer that day. The decal on my 76 is low like yours. I bought the headlight kit over the counter and I don't recall if I had to drill holes or not.

Forgot about that. Guessing none of these would work then?? Vertical Engines | Northern Tool

Ok thanks, got mine from bolt depo also.

They work harden right behind the hub. My friend cut full keyways in my 1" axles the were so hard right a the back of the hubs he couldn't cut any further.

I don't know the technical stuff but they are mild and not hardened. Easy to cut and drill.

to From the UK. I've just a small collection. B80 1973. C-121 1978. C-81 1979. C-125 1982. Also a 1975 Raider 10 in bits. There's also a 1978 Sears GT16 with B&S twin engine, that's rather rare I've been told.

So…. Binford’s the only option?

The 633 has a K141 engine the 753 has a K161 engine. 6hp vs 7hp. A 633 is a bucket list tractor for me. Most garden tractors under 7hp came with Tecumseh engines with the exception of some 4hp models and the 633. Example : The 653 came with a 6hp electric start Tecumseh. I'm guessing that they got a deal on some K141 pull start engines which resulted in the making of the 633. I have a 753 that I would trade but it needs work, plus there seems to be a few miles between us.

Yours is correct, didn't officially have 2 until '78. They're the same fender pan though...

We have sevreal European members who will be along to welcome you and offer assistance with parts sources if needed.

Surprise. Surprise! I opened up my computer this am to read emails etc. and look what appeared! All I did was give a bad review! I did not ask for $$ back! Got a refund on switch. Note it says “fits Stens Indak “ and “fits Toro”. But it isn’t made by any of them!