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Here is a free down load of the manual. Do you have the belt guard installed? The belt will not stop unless the belt guard is in place, If you are wishing to add an extra belt brake to the idle/tension pulley. You can make a piece out of some sheet that will bolt on behind the pulley. This will eliminate the need to remove the clutch/brake rock shaft. Below is one version that I made for one of my tractors. It is held on with the same bolt that holds the idle/tension pulley on. It could be simplified with a piece of sheet metal that has a 90 degree bend instead of the round stock like I used.

I had a company install one piece 40 foot gutters on my pole barn. The rolled it out on the job from a huge roll of aluminum, and molded it to whatever shape or dimension is needed. Installed all the brackets, etc. The price was reasonable because they do nothing else but rain gutters & downspouts. And, I didn't have to risk getting up and down on ladders. Well worth the money. That's how all of the home builders do it. Jim

The best way to find a lost object is to go to the store and buy a replacement, when you put the bag down the lost object will be right next to it, works every time.

https://barnfinds.com/found-in-grandpas-garage-1924-model-t-hot-rod/

You may want to find out how much the delivery fee is. My particular location up in the Northeast here is $35. Some areas it's free but of course nothing's really free.... I don't know what your cutoff threshold would be but place the value on that carefully of you needing to transport gutter that is flimsy, down the road, versus just paying somebody a few extra bucks to get it to your house where it's guaranteed to arrive in good condition.

Ditto.... I also teamed up the frame plate with this triangular brace locked into the lower frame holes. These have been on the 854 8 speed for a few years now....

If I can buy some seamless. cash and carry, I will go that route. But there is no budget to hire it done, time for my kids to pay it back a bit! I only have 8' walls so I can almost touch the facia boards from the ground, no big ladder. Aluminum is what I figured, it's what I have on my house and we have lived there since 94 without any problems. I appreciate the advice guys!!! Randy

Randy you may want to shop around on the price a little. The building supply company I work for sells gutters that are one piece up to 38 ft. Delivered right to the job site. Not having a seam in the middle of the setup would make a fairly serious price difference worth it to me. Has to material, I'd go aluminum. Plastic is fine and I've used it in the past but it's prone to cracking in very cold weather so I won't go that route again.

@Achto has you covered, the belt guard has a bottom rail that the slack of the belt will contact when the clutch is depressed, that will stop the belt from rotating. If you don't have a belt guard for your tractor you could attach a piece of angle iron below the belt on the bottom and another at the top above the belt and cover it with some sheet metal.

Good advise there. The frame I showed IS fixable, but it also has a 1/4" twist that needs to be dealt with first - I do as above, but drill about twelve 3/8" holes in the F plate so I can then plug weld the reinforcement plate in from behind, using the 4 fasteners to hold it in position. That one, because of it's crusty, rusty patina is destined to be the base for an upcoming "Yard Art" project....

That's exactly why I'm trying to either downsize or finish all of my projects this year. I don't want to leave it all for my children to have to clean out, or sell for pennies on the dollar. Sincerely, an 80 year-old collector.

A few tractors have passed thru my barn that have shown signs of cracking. Of course I have no history on how they were used and/or abused. Having said that, the tractors that I plow with, a 312H w 48" and a 520H w/54' show no signs of cracking. They both have a front centering support on the frame. Both are chained up and have substantial weight on the rears, so they have great traction and can push some pretty big loads. I clear 4-5 paved driveways and a stone road. They have also been used to move and grade a 50 ton pile of black top millings and to clear limbs, rocks, and leaves from woods trails and right-o-ways around the farm. My feeling is the blade trip springs do a very good job of limiting the amount of force that is transmitted to the frame/tranny connection. The one exception is if the blade is rammed into a solid object that is as high as the blade that prevents the trip springs from flipping the blade over the object. Like a 2' high frozen ridge of snow that is often found at the end of driveways.

I surely understand your position here and I agree that the stamped-in valleys that stiffen the later F plates were a good improvement. I’ll add that I suspect a LOT depends on the style of plowing by the “plower". The plow’s force is directly on the transaxle, of course, but I also look at the overall forces at play. In particular, how is the force on the transaxle being transmitted to the frame? Consider: - angled plowing being offset by steering force (puts sideways bending force on the F plate--a plow centering guide can lessen this by keeping the frame and transaxle aligned) - ramming the plow into material or hitting solid obstructions with significant force, e.g. sidewalk seams (these try to separate the transaxle from the frame at the F plate horizontally and in rotation since the plow mount is below the F plate)

Definitely seemless... Aluminum. Pay particular attention to downspout locations... Water / ice where you want it, not at doors / walkways...

one thing I made is a couple starter bolts to place these frames back into the four transmission holes. Just grind off the threads on a couple of the bolts and use to align frame with transmission! Then add two other bolts with threads to get in place. Saves a lot of time and stress!

I think you have a 1987 machine.

You've got a couple years on me but I know the feeling. I have sold a couple of bigger projects and need to thin the herd a bit. Not something I want to do but know I should do.

I think that the cats are rarely sold for use, it is the valuable contents that brings the value.

Don't rush the old man, he's not use to moving fast, he might have an accident.

Well got the ends welded up and painted it Regal Red! First time filling gaps welding and it was a learning curve. So don't expect to see a pretty bead on them. But they'll do the job. Looks much better than rusty black! Thanks for looking!

You buy it cash & carry - you own it. You kink it installing it - tough cookies !! The installer that made it on site - if HE kinks it - he just bangs out another one.....

All the above. Seamless aluminum, made right here by a local vendor - INSTALLED by him - did a great job on the pitch and the downspout that hugs the house. Also had him install the screw-in removable "gutter guards" Not that fly-away in a wind storm snap in garbage. Removeable is the key word - he told me that in 10 years or so, there may be enough silt accumulated to allow small plants to grow thru the guard. Call him back to clean them out!!!

We were away from the house all weekend. Cats stayed inside and rabbits were running everywhere last night! Today, not much different. I could easily have nabbed my limit of 5. I popped 3 in about 5 minutes and called it enough for a stew meal. Time to clean and salt bath!

Yes. It is for that also. Just a different number on the tube /bottle

I have a car trailer, so I could haul a 26' piece no problem. I will check in to that, thanks! Randy

Originally had 10w-30 motor oil Check your dipstick if the fluid is tan that is it. Filter is wix 51410

Thanks Pete. I have part numbers for mustang rotors. Going to scavenge the local salvage yards around here after I get it moving. At least with mustang rotors, it’s still all horse.

If you're needing to reinforce the back of the frame keep in mind what you'll be using the tractor for and design your reinforcement accordingly. If you're going to use an attachment that mounts back there like a sickle on a push type center blade it's easy for it to interfere with the bolts. That's do say not hear say. Fortunately I got lucky and the clearance was just enough for a tight fit with the bonus of holding the nut by the flat to actually assist me. Another thing I'm just throwing out there. I hear it all the time but I'm not convinced the front plow puts as much stress on the tractor frame as claimed. Besides snow I've pushed countless yards of dirt, gravel and stone and I've never cracked one. I've also cleared paths through the woods and with the roots and the like that's probably the hardest on it. But the frame is connected directly to the transmission. Sure, there's still some stress but not a direct cause. In the early years that area was simply the weak link on the frame. Then they started reinforcing it sometime in the mid 60's.

Best bet would be to download the IPL for the two transmissions models you have and take a look at the part numbers. The brake shafts are not the same and depending on axle sizes the differentials may or may not be the same. https://www.wheelhorseforum.com/files/category/23-manual/

Green? Boy you REALLY don't want those to come out ehh?

This is an Eaton 1100. No tow valve on the Eaton 700 and 1100. Only the Sundstrands and the Eaton 5 had a tow valve. The Eaton 1100s can be pushed by hand slowly without any damage. The Eaton 700 is very difficult to push. Do not tow them .

I try to use allen head bolts when i remember to get them, i can spin them out faster and the driver doesn't slip off like flathead or phillips

Most of another great day spent wrenchin'. Trina's special project for today was to find, create, manufacture, produce, the motion control lever extension out of the bottom of a previously whittled stick. She found a piece of Striped Maple with a good big beefy feel to it. Trimmed the bottom so it was at the right angle. I decided the length that I wanted. She cut and trimmed it then put it in the drill press and made a 7/16" x 3" deep hole to insert the lever. Sanded the corners and coated it with polyurethane spray. A bit odd for most? Yes. Fits my Big hand and personality? Definitely. I made up my Engine crankshaft seal installer. Installed: Engine crankshaft seal. Engine drive pulley. Engine grass screen flattened and installed with 4 new screws. Exhaust old stub pipe removed with giant huge wicked incredible leverage bar on large pipe wrench and big heavy bear. Small Trina assisting. Correct exhaust stub pipe installed. ALL NEW grade 8 fasteners are used whenever possible. Trina did: Belt idler pulley removed and brake lever with linkage and spring installed. Drive belt. Air cleaner base. Crossbar that holds steps and seat pan latch. Belt guard. Both side steps. Rear tail light. We put a washer/spacer on brake pedal connection to shift linkage. Also replaced brake pedal bushings. I found a near NOS trailer hitch in my stock. Thanks to @Mows4three Dave for that. Trina cleaned, sanded, painted it. Lift valve lever removed, cleaned, painted black, reinstalled in reverse for more user friendly location. Volt gauge/voltage regulator installed. Engine oil dumped in. 2 qts Kinetix HD30. Coiled up choke and throttle cables. Soaking them with Liquid Wrench Penetrating Oil. They were working fine but figured I'd give them a good lubing to make @peter lena Greasy Pete happy. 😃 I brought 2 five gallon pails 🪣of Rimguard Tire Filling Fluid down from the new shop building to the basement workshop. Figure around 55 lbs per pail. Walked about 100, 120 ft carrying them both. THAT... Was a workout. 🏋️🏋️🏋️🏋️ @Pullstart

Took a couple of sideshots today while fixing the the snowblower chute cable...

I've done them a more crude and simpler route without any special machines or expensive tooling. Just a 7/8" construction reamer, a cordless drill and a Dremel. Pay attention, take your time, keep it straight and it will self center and the hole will line up. The spindle holes need to be done from both ends of the hole because of the depth. Best to only go part way through on the top, then go full depth on the bottom. The reamer won't just pass all the way through unless you grind off the flange at the top and extend the shank. 3/4" ID x 7/8" OD bronze bushings. Insert 1 on each end with the center left open for the grease zerk and grease. That's how that hole is now. Same process for the axle pivot. The frame holes can be done as well if they're wallowed. If the spindles go in too tight into the bushings that's a good thing as they are tight into the axle. The bushings can be filed or use a Dremel sander to tweak them until the spindle fits loose but still snug. Get any file dust cleaned out. https://www.amazon.com/Drill-America-Qualtech-High-Speed-Uncoated/dp/B00FXJGURA/ref=asc_df_B00FXJGURA?tag=bingshoppinga-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=80058242473102&hvnetw=o&hvqmt=e&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4583657821672122&th=1 Is having it done with expensive machines at a machine shop much more accurate and the best option? You betchya it is!!!! But, do these 7 mph tractors require the accuracy like the space shuttle does? IDK Plus you now have the tool to do more if need be. It definitely gets easier to do and better results the more you do. Holes can also get bushings for the 3/4" stuff on the steering sector to tighten that stuff up at the fan gear.

Stopped by a buddies house to trouble shoot his GFCI issue in his garage..,afterwards he says “You want this? If not it’s going to the dump,” Of course I hauled it home. Needs both tires replaced. Not sure I got it in me to hook it behind one of my Wheel Horse’s though

Decided to give the front end a little different look. Although I like the look if the D series, I always thought the grille was just BIG. So I figured I would do an insert using an old D160 grille I had laying around. Took 4” out of the old grille width & 2” heightwise. I also welded the bottom up solid. This gives me 2” of clearance on the sides and 1” clearance on the top and bottom. The inner grille is only 2” wide as viewed from the side so it will clear the mufflers. It may also poke out the front a half inch. May make new slats to make the center or come up with some kind of mesh to stick in there. We’ll see. A simple photo hack showing the idea The beginning

I understand the logic of wanting to take care of one's own possessions before one's passing. I'm not necessarily in disagreement per se but I've come to the belief over the last few years that we SHOULD enjoy what we have while we're alive and able to do just that. Our collections, habits, hobbies, things that make us joyful as an individual absolutely should NOT be liquidated before we're mentally or physically unable to enjoy them. It's your "stuff". You went and got it. You built it. You amassed the collection. Be happy with it in your own life. The next folks down the line will either enjoy, or not, and that's ok. We're all different folks.

Trina got the seat and fender pan put on today while I was at work. More of an adventure than usual because of the way I have it mounted and because the bushings were of course worn out so she had to go find new ones on other tractors. I cut more threads into these bolts in preparation to mount the hood. Some tractors that we've had come through were bolted on and some had the full width cross pin. I'm sure that cross pin is factory. I like the bolts better. They're tighter.

Where does Grandpa Munster sit?

Piddled around with some mock up today. I got alot of fabrication to do before assembly, but it's nice to have an idea of how it all comes together. There are parts from several tractors in this thing. -Fender from a Charger. -Frame from a 12/ 8 speed. -Console from a 8/ 4 speed. -Front axle from a 1990 520. -No clue where the hood came from. Had to make sure they all fit...

My best guess

thank you all for the information. i will follow it and hopefully that will solve my situation. thanks again to all!

@ri702bill I assume this repair has to be done with a bare frame, transmission removed. I have seen another option on this forum using angle irons but believe it can be done without stripping down to the frame. I have a C-120 that PO used with push blade and brinley plow that has some cracks, thankfully not as bad as the picture you posted. My spring project!

I use their 680 retaining compound alot, when doing spindle rebuilds its sometimes tedious when alone to try and hold the blade, adapter, shaft up into the housing while trying to install the pulley and nut above..so a drop on the shaft at the bearings, holds it in place.

Surprise. Surprise! I opened up my computer this am to read emails etc. and look what appeared! All I did was give a bad review! I did not ask for $$ back! Got a refund on switch. Note it says “fits Stens Indak “ and “fits Toro”. But it isn’t made by any of them!

@19richie66 like the work up , you might even put disc brakes on the rear end hub / flanges , automotive set up , should be an easy find , pete

That's what I would do. Complete rewire, and you know you're good. It's not a complex model to rewire. Heck, just bring it over here and I'll help if you want. Probably as close as I'll get to a C160 anyway!

I believe that @RED-Z06 is correct.