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Some had wanted to see the progress on this 857. I tried to put pictures in order, might not be, but enjoy. The weather down here has not cooperated very well, so things are going slower. Big difference from the original, had to include the Little Guy! He likes this riding tractor. Dennis

Ah yes, I am a sensible family guy so of course it followed me home one day. Almost exactly as I found it and still waiting its turn... '57 210 townsman with a 327 and Muncie 4 speed. As soon as I finish (AHEM) a couple other projects, my goal is to learn to be a car guy, fix a few things and daily drive it.

The 76 and 77 B's were identical to the C's other than a few minor things. Rear tires were 22.7.50 vs 23.850, low back seat vs high back, 13" steering wheel vs 15", headlights optional vs standard and of course engine size. I bought this 76 B-80 brand new. A couple years later WW Grainger sent out microfiche pricing for dealers only that had special pricing. Kohler K-341's for around $250. They even had the correct threaded holes in the oil pan for the frame bolts from underneath. So I gave birth to my B-160. The low back seat went on a Commando 800 restoration, found a set of 23.850's, a headlight kit and it was good to go. Just need to get a couple B-160 8 Speed decals.

I hope that I have found all the worn out parts. I first told my friend that "they make these things to last forever". But I revised that to "They make these things to be able to repair forever." That's better than what you buy today that are designed to wear out so that you have to buy a new one. I made some new tie rods with grade 7B all-thread in stainless tubing that I had horded. @peter lena Should I put Lucas Red in those ball joints as best I can? Here's the access to the ball. I'm not sure how much grease can get into it.

While in the examination area she was looked over and I could tell she had good bones, a real solid girl. The surface rust added to her appeal in that it showed that she wasn't scared to do some work. I pulled all the parts she was missing off the C-100 to see if I could get her heart to beat. After fixing a couple of other minor electrical issues, I poured some gas in where her spark plug was and ... there was a cough and a sputter. I poured in a bit more and she seemed to have some life in there still. So, I ordered the new parts she needed (so I could put the C-100 back together). While waiting for the parts, I cleaned out the fuel tank and put new fuel hose and a filter on her. I disassembled the carb and cleaned it up. The parts arrived and I put them on her. I put a little gas in the tank and started cranking. Nothing. Cranked some more and she came to life. That 16 HP engine on shaker plates was really bucking on that frame! After letting her run for a few minutes I shut her off. But what about that transmission? Does it work? I jacked the back of her up (her tires are still in bad shape) so I could try! I started her back up and after a minute of still being fascinated that her heart was beating I moved the motion control forward and the wheels spun. I moved it back to the middle and they stopped. I pushed it back and the wheels spun backwards. This was promising right? I don't know, they sure weren't spinning very fast. Was this the reason she was set aside? Never having ever seen a hydro like this, with controls such as hers, I wasn't sure what she should act like. But, the wheels did turn, so that's good, right? I jacked up the front and put her up on jack stands, took her wheels off, tires off the rims, cleaned the rims up and took them to the powder coating shop up the road (same as I did for the C-100). Should I have spent that money without knowing if that transmission was good or bad? I bought her all new shoes, too. That wasn't cheap! Should I have spent that money so soon without knowing? I don't know. In the meantime, I was busy working on other internal and external blemishes. Just this week I have put on her footrests, side panels, shifter and ammeter plate. I used the brand new stainless steel hardware I bought. More money. I put on new rubber bumpers on her footrests to protect them from the fender/seat pan. At this point, I'm wondering if I'm doing way too much, spending way too much, without knowing more about that transmission. And I forgot to even test the hydraulic lift before taking the wheels off! And I'm not starting her up while she's on those jack stands! She bucks like crazy when that engines running! Last night I put the seat springs on the seat pan and then bolted the seat to the seat springs (Note to self: next time, attach the seat to the springs first, then attach it to the seat pan, what a pita!). I hope to get the fender put on tomorrow and then the seat assembly. It's been 2 weeks since I dropped off the rims, so they should be ready any day now. I'll have to get the tires mounted and then install the wheels (and new front wheel bearings!). I have this ache in the pit of my gut. Am I asking too much from her? Is that tranny still good? What have I done!

A friend of ours who set up the deal for Docwheelhorse who bought a 953 from original owner this summer gave my wife this today. He deals poker at the MGM. I think it is cool. Looks like a round hood to me. Just thought I would share.

IIRC every tractor I've ever bought had horrible 'toe out', which, as described above will cause really stiff steering. And, most of the horses have the solid tie rods, which, of course cant be adjusted. One of the first things I do is to get heim joints and make up adjustable rods to get the toe set with slight 'toe in' Will make a huge difference!!

This is the first year since 1989 that I have not had a WheelHorse tractor not outfitted for Winter duty. I may have jinxed myself and other North East members with all these extremely heavy wet snowfalls we have been having around these parts. Back in 2000 I found a slightly used OTC for the 520-H that I have enjoyed since then. There comes a time when you just need more weight and power to deal with these types of storms. Back in 2018 I found this tractor and got a quote for a Curtis cab fully loaded with options. With recent price hikes I was not prepared to pay at least $ 2000 more for the same exactly equipped cab. Turn the page back to the 520- H with OTC cab and found that there was a new cab for the older model JD 3320 open station available. Having been completely satisfied with their product I decided to order one up with a few options,LED work lights and inside rear view mirror. The glass windshield and wiper are included in the package for this JD model. A few things to do wiring wise but overall I have been battling these recent storms in complete comfort. I really can't say enough about this unit and if anyone is considering a somewhat affordable comfortable cab for ANY brand of tractor this Company is Great to deal with located in Indiana. The best part is they are made in the USA.

Spindle stops have been added to the front axle and brake caliper mounting holes added to the transmission mounting channel. The OEM Kohler Command crankshaft gear said to be made of powered metal and is pressed onto the crankshaft without any key. An engine builder is machining a keyway in the crankshaft and installing an alloy steel crank gear. I am expecting the crank back next week. The engine will be assembled to verify clearances and the crank will be then be balanced.

Yes. When I lift the front end of the SK486 off the ground, it steers effortlessly. Implication? I will try lifting it off the ground when I grease the front end. I’ve never done this.

Working on center harness which is the part that attaches yoke to cart. It’s a large leather belt. It’s a tough one to break in so it will flex to the area it is supposed to go to. Continuous wedging to stretch it and occasionally soaking it with alcohol will do it.

Yep, that's the one I got from you, that pic was from about 5 years ago, this is her now...

While I seem to recall some long running bathroom remodel threads, I've been working to put this one off as long as I could. But leaks in the 40 year old copper piping has finally pulled me into it. This summer I had my 3rd hot water copper piping leak under the slab, you know, that warm spot through the concrete floor that gives them away. Fortunately I've found ways to reroute them verses cut concrete, but it was extra hot in the July attic for this last reroute. So this winter, while its cool in the attic, I'm working on running PEX for the upstairs bath and part of the down stairs that's in the garage/master bath wall below. The upstairs has a sink in the bath, and a sink in bedrooms on either side of the bathroom. Thankfully the back of all three sinks are accessible from this one closet. This closet is about 14 ft between 2 floors from the garage where I have access to pull in new lines. I'm not a copper expert, but this hot water line fitting below sure had a lot of corrosion going on! From the closet I need to run about 8 ft between the floors to the upstairs tub. Now you see it! Now you don't My wife has wanted to replace this "outdated" fiberglass sea shell design tub/shower for quite a few years with a "modern" tub and ceramic tile surround. I can't complain as she's really not one to always want the latest design or trend. But....I've resisted. But to access the shower and toilet piping the fiberglass meet Mr. Sawzall yesterday! Because I'm not exactly sure how things run branch off between the floors where I cant see, I've been working my way back from sinks and turning water off, cut-cap, see what still has water, and repeat, repeat. I won't get much done for the next few days as we have the grandkids! One on the interesting things about my past 3 leaks is they all have been hot water lines, and the all have been under the concrete below where they all header to the main hot water line and branch back into the stab. I wonder if the plumbers maybe kinked them making the bends from vertical to horizontal before the slab was poured. I've also seen where plumbers use a rebar stake to anchor these lines before the pour, and wonder if some dissimilar metal electrolysis corrosion could be going on. Thankfully the header where they all branch off is behind the utility room sink, so I now have a removable panel in the back of that sink cabinet. Anyone have any similar experience or knowledge on leaks in old copper?

Funny this old thread is getting action. Here are some photos of how it came out finished. Great tractor, long gone but not forgotten.

What do you mean by "Bucks like crazy"? If the rubber isolators in the shaker plate are in good the engine should move very little. It's very common for those rubber mounts to be rotten, & from what you're describing they're probably shot. One of the best mods for the shaker plate engines is to replace them with solid mounts. Toro wants a fortune for the rubber replacement mounts & the solid mounts make everything rock solid. I just put a set on my C-161, they make a BIG difference. These are what they look like, I think they were around $60.00. (precision machined billet aluminum & way less expensive than the rubber ones).

@Snoopy11, As mentioned previously, the bottom flange of the frame angles have been machined to accommodate the original 8 degrees of angle tip.

@Dreamcatcher! I agree with @ebinmaine, there is no need to look down upon a 8 horse, as inferior. My 502 is heavily modified, with an 8 hp engine (originally 5 hp) and a C-series transmission, among other things. I can pull a 10” plow through the dirt with only tr@cation being the limiting factor.

I don't know if we got any of dem deciduous trees down here but we got plenty of dem pines.

I took the wings off to fit in the garage! Four other Wheel Horse tractors behind the 314 with Snowblower -plus a large rolling tool box! I think I clear the door by about three inches!

Yes, with my house slab on grade plus an upstairs I'm working slowly trying to think and rethink about what goes where every time I open up a new spot in the floor or back of a cabinet. Unfornatualy the plumber that did this house had no rime or reason....actually I think he forgot to put a few things in slab. Most of downstairs comes up through slab, but one of the two master bathroom sinks and the master tub is piped from upstairs. The other master bathroom sink and shower are piped through slab like I would expect. Before I started I cut out the back wall of each sink cabinet and made it a replaceable panel. Then I used my little temperature gun and individually ran hot, then cold water at each sink/device and marked piping and gradually drew a partial piping drawing. Unfornatualy my drawing is only 60% complete as there must be some T's behind toilets (and who know where else) as I haven cut any holes in sheetrock except for the one upstairs closet. Yes well water with a high lime/mineral content. We have a water softener which all water goes through. I wonder if its a good or hard thing on the copper, but I can say my hot water heater tanks have lasted a long time. @Pullstart in Texas their Hot Water Heaters as they don't get water hot enough to boil. We use Boilers at steam plants to make electricity!

Easiest would be a swap with another K181. Or rebuild the orginal motor would be my route.

First thing that comes to mind is, why would you be replacing the engine? I like the fact that some of us do whatever they can to just keep the tractors running and I have great respect for that but I'm a bit of a traditionalist. To me the engine swap for a b80 would be the original Kohler that was in it.... Or an upgrade of horsepower. But then, that brings up the question, why not just get a c series that would have a bigger engine?

When there is toe out. The wheels will be fighting each other trying to go 2 directions at once. The tractor moving forward will make it worse as any play in the linkage will increase toe out. With toe in the forward movement and linkage play will force the wheels out and with the correct adjustment they end up going the same direction.

@GAJoe been using heim joints for years , no failures , like super lube hydraulic oil , for a size to size fit / swivel , also another detail on front wheel bearings , is to washer up the fit for no sloppy side play in use , that sloppy side thrust is what tears up those bearings . have heim joint on my pto lever in place of wobbly trunnion , steering arms , clutch linkage , plow lever pull rod , solid / smooth . don,t be afraid to make an improvement at any point , once you get over that phase . its easy to make things very solid / reliable in operation . also like your bearing regrease , stress related grease failure is common / heat build up , thats why I hype hi temp grease, you are on the right track . pete

When I got my 76 back it steered harder than I remembered. I also noticed that when I would drive on pavement it puller to the right because the right front was had toe out. The tie rod had been replaced and it was never adjusted properly. I realigned it and not only did it stop pulling it steered easier. Still not as easy as my others but easier. I'm thinking I need to tweak it more. Somewhere I read that it should have a slight toe in for the best steering. Just a thought. BTW, I have the same tires on it.

I added a bronze sleeve bearing to the top of the lower steering block; also added a second grease fitting to the lower portion. I undercut the lower steering shaft to accept a sleeve bearing - also I cut 6 small reliefs in the steering wheel shaft to hold grease - all this made a HUGE improvement to reduce steering effort. Do you raise the front of the tractor off the ground and let the wheels hang when you grease the spindles?? It is the only way the grease will get to the upper and lower sections....

That is so darned awesome! Great!

Not me under the suit. A good friend of mine builds duck boats and had been a paint and body guy for years. I am helping him with a 68 Commando 6 that he was given about 15 years ago. I provide him parts, etc....he helps me with paint. Heck of a deal!

Thank you for posting a photo in proper painting attire.

I know, but what's the story behind that sensible family station wagon in the background there???

Oh boy oh boy oh boy! Things are tacked up for the jackshaft! Now, I need to do some serious planning of one more reduction be it the input shaft or the brake shaft. I left the left side bearing support wider than the right side on purpose. It fits best with the exhaust pipe there, plus gives options for secondary reduction on a shaft if need be.

Final touches, decorations on arches.

Hello @Hardy, The manual says 1/2” x 70”. Bonjour Hardy, Le manuel indique 1/2" x 70". 12.7mm (13) x 1778 mm

I have seen small stones and chunks of wood wedged deep in the bottom of the Vee pulleys. This will cause a 1/rev tightening of the belt. This rapid tightening and loosening of the belt may not permit the idler to maintain tension on the belt allowing it to jump off the pulley. It would be evident as the idler pulley will be moving or jumping as the obstruction contacts the belt.

These look like what are on a’79 C-161 I was given. I put LEDs in them (there are 2 on that tractor). And each fixture holds 2 bulbs.

Oh Lane, that's just so not me. She would have replied "Who are you and what did you do with my husband?"

I've done the 5 and 2 intermittent fasting regime and it works for me. I had more energy and felt better. The guy over here who was testing it on a TV show said if we eat like we have become used to because food is ultra available its like driving a car in first gear at 60mph all the time and the body never gets chance to recover. Definitely backed up but science. You go for it Kev.

It’s been one week (Sounds like an intro to a BNL song..) since I started my fast life. I’m feeling great!

Man, I WISH my next visit to a mall would end up being this entertaining. I'm a sucker for street musicians, wherever they appear. I've seen this guy's videos, he just shows up in bars or wherever and just starts playing, very cool! And I love the way he went over and shook the security guard's hand after he was all done. Thanks for posting this Kevin, I smiled through the whole thing!

If it really does run and looks great, not smoking or burning oil, I think your concerns about a replacement engine or rebuilding it in the near future is a bit of a moot point. The 8 hp will do most anything you need it to do, if it has the 8 sp hi/lo trans ('76 and '77) then it will climb a pine tree if you can keep it from tipping over. Unless he wants an outrageous price "just do it". When and IF the engine goes to he** you can still find a replacement or rebuild it then.

Anyone ever seen this guy’s videos? He just shows up to any piano and plays.

Did you try putting more wind in the tires?

Andersen Windows are very much over information on their website and on the technical information provided. However, I think that has to do with the wide variety of audiences that they are targeting in marketing their product. I very much like that you can dig into their website for minute details about when a window ceased manufacture and how various changes in design occurred. For instance although my motorized awning windows are no longer made, Andersen makes a much better geared opening metal flange setup that I have had to purchase twice when my windows had an old one break. The local sales folks were not much help but the Andersen website and the internet were! Some of the information may be overkill but not for someone looking for those exact facts!

That copper fitting looks like a few that I have had in my house for the heating system with antifreeze in them. I thought it was the antifreeze that caused it. I see treated lumber under it not sure if that could have a reaction. I'm not a plumber, only know enough to get in trouble but I have done a lot in my home, most of it decades ago and know major problems. Concrete can be hard on copper, I had a friend that built a new house probably thirty years ago now that put heating lines in the basement concrete floor. He had big problems with it leaking and just capped it off, not sure on workmanship. Plastic seems to be the way to go now, less costly and faster.

The Plunge @JCM comes to mind.

The tee you pictured was leaking from a bad solder joint. When it's a tiny weep, eventually the minerals in the water solidify and seal it up... mostly... It still leaks, but never enough to really see a drip. I've seen lots of these. Not galvanic, rather plain old bad workmanship. None of the ones I've repaired were near concrete or dissimilar metals. I dissected a few decades ago and could plainly see where they were not properly soldered. Most likely not properly cleaned before assembly. It sounds like the contractor had an apprentice on the job.

I have little background on this one. A family member live(s/d) next to a guy named Dave. He used to sell Wheel Horse parts some years ago. He supplied my Dad some parts back then and I don’t know too much more about him. I like to think that he would frequent this site and maybe folks on here knew him. Not sure. Anyway, Dave passed away (God Bless him) and a short while later this tractor arrived at my place. I can tell there had been work/attempts at keeping her going. Some sporadic areas have rattle can spray on them. The engine looked as if it had been fussed with. The engine and transmission oil looked decent, although I did just change both and the trans filter which had a date of 10/97 on it. That was a great year for me! Those hood decals look really good compared to the rest of her. The engine model/serial #’s on the tag look home engraved. All the numbers match and everything points to it being a true blue 1979 C-161. I just think ol’ Dave had been doing some work on her and had or bought a new blank tag because the original was “deteriorating”. I can’t prove it, that’s just my suspicion. Or he replaced a rotten blower housing from a different model although this blower housing tin has a big hole in it under where the coil/condenser mount. They are fastened on one side now with a metal drywall anchor (with the folding wings that spread out out after you push it through the hole). By the way, I have placed a want-ad for some tins for the engine as the tin on top has a crack in it too. There was an aftermarket fuel pump zip tied to it, but wasn’t connected to anything. There were several new stainless steel bolts and nuts put on it. I found that the mechanical fuel pump was installed backwards/ upside down. Maybe that was the unknown issue that didn’t get resolved and why she was set aside? Anyway, thank you for the kind comments!

I know you're all on edge for how this turns out... It made it! The logistics were magical with 3 legs and a week wrapped up in a tarp somewhere in the middle. There are surely a lot of great people out there, I'm thinking of three in particular. I'll start another thread now for my rapidly growing list of technical questions. Couldn't be more excited! Took it for a spin and the kids loved it too. As promised: