Leaderboard

This post started being about keys, but was really about replacing a radiator, so I created a new post. The original was here. I finally got this done last weekend and took her for a ride, all good I had to remove all this I cleaned up and repainted some parts like the fan, radiator mount and fan shroud I replaced the front tires while I had the wheels off. Believe it or not I got the best price on these from Walmart, shipped for free to my local store. They are good quality. The brand is "Farm Crop" or something like that an Asian thought would sound good. Overall it came out good, but if you get one of these off of eBay like I did, I'd call it a CLOSE copy. The mounting holes needed modification. I needed new mounting springs because the studs on this were shorter than original. I had to cut bolt access holes for the relocated hole as well as use the cutoff wheel to remove portions of the bracket where it interfered with the hood. Either way it was way cheaper ($360) than getting the original re-cored ($700). Plus, the core is twice as thick on the new version.

Aaannnndddd Trina plowed the whole yahd while I was gone to work.

You've got other tractors, rob one off one of those tractors and give it a try before you buy one.

Friday the 13th in January. Just west of Chicago, we have had no plowable snow yet this year, a few days of below zero weather, most of the days have been above average...30's and 40's sometimes 50's. It is being called the 6th warmest winter in history. We had some ice during the cold spell around X-Mas, but that is all gone now. It is a lot like March around here. If we were to get some sun, I bet my grapes would start growing. Winter ain't over yet...I know...but we are running out of the time when we get the real cold. Forecast is still nice till the end of the month. That is great for the gas bill, but I find myself taking the horses I have ready for snow around the block looking for snow. Don't worry, I don't miss snow enough to move to Buffalo, but it would be nice to move a little snow this year. My ice fishing partner and I plan to go look for where the ice usually is and share some Bloody Mary's this next week. We just need to go look for ice. Have any of you guys used your blades yet??

I looked for years for that cover. After I sell the jenny I find a guy with a spare!

I went to Sullivan Tire in Sanford Maine and bought 25 gallons of Rimguard tire filling fluid. This will be used over the next year or three in at least four or five different tractors.

Repurpose them Kevin! Downspout??

First off. if your engine is original Spec# 28626 Then it looks like it did come with a vacuum pump (see C2 in the parts picture no arm) One issue here is 7-8 hp kohlers used a different mechanical pump than the big block 10hp and up. If you are trying to run a mechanical pump you need the one on the left with offset actuating arm. (pic 2)

It’s a nice day for a tractor ride…. And a nap! @squonk no 10mm sockets, but I found Putt Putt’s (golf) balls!

Went outside to monkey around with the 875. I got it to start and run again.... sometimes.... I believe I have a bad coil wire . I'm going to see about getting a new one. I got cold as I have to work on it outside. No room in the garage.

At best these arches are always a rather ambitious project wether steam bending or laminating . Bottom curve is extremely tight and has to be fully supported 100% of time while bending. This is a dry run prior to glue. One has to make sure nothing will crack prior to application of glue. I use my jigs almost vertical so pieces being bent do not interfere with anything around them. Also when laminating if glue runs a bit it will not be out of sides but rather downwards piece length where is needed. It also makes it easier to see if everything is tight without leaning over all clamps. Assembly quickness without any drama is essential since glue does not wait too long.

YEOW! Thatsa lotta work to change a radiator! But, you at least found a radiator.... And I was grumbling about having to replace my 1980ish Mitsubishi gray mkt radiator. Had this Huge oak got lightening struck and of course it died so was trying to get it cleaned up (geez, that was a JOB!!) Was down to 6-8 quite large pieces of the trunk and with the FEL was trying to move them over to the edge of my property when one of them slipped off the bucket and fell against the front of the tractor, which, along with mangling the hood assy, pushed it into the rad, and alternator. Now, like our horses, parts for these little gray mkt tractors, parts are scarce! Finally found one that was apparently same except for the lower outlet was the conventional short straight outlet and mine had a sharp 'elbow', which as absolutely necessary - and was $450! - plus ship! During this time a buddy sez there is still an old guy that runs a rad shop here in town, why dont you see him. Took the rad over and he (crusty ole guy with a wad of tobacco bout in his 80's) sez, I cant fix yourins, but I can core it - how much I say, he scratches his whiskered chin and sez $350! 3 days later I picked it up, with a sigh of relief! Got the hood pretty well straightened and cobbled up a alternator mount and was back in business --- dont know how I ever got along without a FEL!

Picture of Kohler metal fuel pump with primer arm!

This was a very good thread on the various features of the old fuel pumps. I would also mention the mechanical ones at this time use to have the priming level on the side of the pump which was a very nice feature for starting the motor easily! We kept o drawer of the old metal fuel pumps as we often rebuilt or stole parts from the old fuel pumps

I’ve been fretting the fact that the steering shaft is about 12” from the center of the crank, the precise location the secondary clutch needs to be hiding in. Well, I had an aha! moment tonight. The secondary can be ABOVE the shaft!

@ebinmaineJust checked and confirmed that yes it is the generator belt guard. It matches my spare and the one on my generator.

Found these on the fleeeBay. Figured I'd share. Price is great. They feel pretty strong. Fit under a Horse.

I first brought this poor little orphaned Horse home about 3.5 years ago, gave it a good walkaround and look over then, but never did anything else with it before trading it to a friend of mine. Turns out he never did anything with it either, and a couple months ago it made its way back to me. Going to move the Farmall C out of the barn tomorrow, and drag it in out of the wind to see what its gonna take to get it back up and running.

OK Prof... you got my interest... my 1st horse that started all this madness and 1st true love that never sassed me! Looks to be fairly all there too! You need anything you gimme a jingle... I know the horse inside and out! I did a full thread on this resto. Warning ... you get it running and look down that long hood things might happen...

@WHX?? - Excellent. We used to do ours in a pair of wooden Vee blocks to make rotating the armature easier..... I still do!

Undercutting is essential to leave a separation between the commutators so they do not get bridged and short out from the expelled carbon off the brushes. (having flashbacks of Automotive Trade Shop School 1972-73.....)

Not much both products are pretty much refrigerants with a high boiling point. They dry quickly and leave no residues.

Ahhh a job I do not relish and unfortunately the bulk of my tractors have SGs. I start out by giving both parts an extensive meeting with a blow gun. Outside if possible the black is gonna fly. The outside I will just wipe down good with parts cleaner. The armature usually cleans up with the blow gun. But if either piece needs more just use a can of off the shelf brake cleaner with the straw. Follow with the blow gun and repeat as required. Plan to go through a whole can if really dirty. Bearings come out and get replaced no matter how they sound. End bells go in the parts cleaner. Re-clean the armature if shining up comutators or under cutting mica. I wear disposable exam gloves when handling parts. The carbon residue does not come off for a long time.

Plowed a couple times but moved a lot of gravel from the driveway to the lawn. Sweepster is going to have a big spring project.

The bending process. During the trial runs I keep time on it to make sure it is confortably under the glue’s open time. If not chaos and disaster is inevitable. Initial bend . Side cleats hold it in place. Considerable effort is needed to get it in this position. Temporary clamps on side to allow bottom piece placement. Always listening to any cracking sounds. Bottom clamp in. It will be tightened slowly to support wood fibers in main bend. Clamping from bottom up to allow laminations to slide past each other. Upper temporary clamps reduce pressure. Bottom section fully in place next critical bend clamped. Considerable pressure needed here also. Final clamping of top section. Pieces are marked on the center at bottom. Important to keep those points aligned exactly so top ends with two equal legs.

We had one snowfall that gave us about 4” on December 12th …I plowed it. Nothing since then.

Yup, I've used my blade this month.........to push some dirt on the paths in the woods. Officially, in South Bend, it's the warmest January on record. So far there hasn't been a January day where the high has been below freezing. Don’t get complacent though. We all WILL pay for this.

Not here sounds just the same. Right now it’s about 55 and rain

Got the trans together . Followed your advice and everything fell into place. Thanks for the pro tips, they helped. just have to get some new bolts for it now and finish assembling.

@D_Mac get you a dollar bill and take the points cover off. Insert a folded bill in between the points and polish it a bit. Try for spark then.

Ha, he was capable, but his was a Gut Horse - or was it Horse Guts? I did the decals for his conversion....

Sure wish you had come here first prior to buying lots of parts that may not have needed replacement. Here is a step by step method to check the components of your starter system. Why won’t my starter turn over from the key switch? Lets take a logical step by step inspection of your starter problem. Is your PTO in the ON position, a wheel horse will not start with the PTO on. Have you had the battery load tested at an auto parts store? Have you cleaned and tightened all electrical connections including grounds? Are all fuses good and fuse holders cleaned? If these have all been done, we can check components of the starting system as follows; don’t skip a step or you may miss the problem. Be sure the transmission is in neutral and the parking brake is set. Take a pair of automotive jumper cables and connect the black cable to your battery "-" and a good clean spot on the engine. Now connect the other cable to the large post on the starter and touch the other end to the battery "+" terminal, does the starter turn over? If the starter turns over the battery and starter are good. If it didn't turn over try the same steps with the battery in your car/truck, if that cures the problem then the "good" battery wasn't so good. Presuming the starter turned over move the jumper wire from the starter post to the other end of the wire going to the starter which is one of the large posts on the solenoid. If the starter turns over when the battery is touched by the jumper as before then that cable is good, if not you have found your problem. Presuming the starter turned over move that jumper to the other terminal of the solenoid, connect the other end to the battery and use a small piece of wire to temporarily connect the battery "+" terminal to the small terminal on the solenoid, this should cause the solenoid to close and the starter to turn over. If not, the solenoid is probably the problem. If this was successful remove the large jumper cable and use the small jumper wire to the small terminal of the solenoid, the solenoid should close and the starter turn over. If not the cable to the battery is the problem. Presuming all of these have been successful remove the black jumper wire and repeat the small jumper to small terminal, if the starter turns over the ground is good. If all of these components test good then remove your ignition switch, be sure the transmission is in neutral, parking brake on, clutch depressed and PTO off. Use a small jumper to connect the terminals that were connected to the “B” and “S” terminals of the ignition switch. If the starter turns over then the PTO switch and other safety switches are operating properly and your ignition switch may be bad.

Let's not give him any ideas on speed Dan... just sayin

Mike @squonk makes up some real nice plug wires, give him a call.

Here is the due a two inch by 16 tpi

This is just at the root idea stage so far. i have a lot of things i can envision that may not work out, but I think that using the axle itself a kind of lathe bed might have some merit. The starting point will be putting a plastic pipe insert inside the axle and making a jig that holds the die in alignment that turns on the pipe

The circumference of a 9.25" diameter pulley is 9.25 in. * 3.1415 (PI) = 29.06 in. 9500 rev/min * 29.06 in./rev * ft/12 in. = 23,006 FPM V-belt drives are used in the 2500-7000 FPM. A speed of 4000 FPM is generally ideal. Chain drives are typically used at lower speeds with higher torques. Most commercially available sheaves are cast iron, which need to be balanced above 5000 FPM, and limited to 6500 FPM. Steel pulleys are good up to 10,000 FPM. On my build: 1) Engine/CVT driver 3750 RPM 2) CVT ratio 0.53:1 (overdrive) 3) 1" diameter jackshaft with CVT driven and 3.75" OD v-belt drive pulley 7075 RPM /6946 FPM 4) Jackshaft mounted in 1" Seal Master high speed pillow blocks (McMaster-Carr P/N 2722T34) max. speed 9000 RPM 5) 3.75" OD v-belt driven pulley 1:1 ratio 6) Transaxle input speed 7075 RPM 7) 8-speed transaxle 3rd hi ratio 24.6:1 8) Tire circumference 69.9" 9) Max. speed 19.0 MPH calculated with no losses.

@Walleye Guy, Years ago I had a 753 with a Kohler K161S with the same Spec number as yours. (I still have the engine) It has the pulse/vacuum style fuel pump on it. My 854 with a Kohler K181S has the same pulse fuel pump on it also. -JD-

For speed remove the transmission (you will lose reverse).run a straight axle. Use a chain drive from the torque convertor to the rear axle. Don't know the gear up in your torque convertor set up, it's usually 3 to 1 to 1 to 1 wide open. By being able to change sprockets you can get the gearing right for those large diameter rear tires. I used these on minibikes and go karts. On the minibike with a K 91 Kohler I could get 45 MPH They were adjustable from 3 to 8 HP engines.

Been working on a piston to piston parts list. I'm not computer friendly.

Yep, I got it all finished last weekend. I created a new post here.

My 701 with a K161 engines had a lever style pump and I replaced it with a pulse type pump. Either will work. But to the best of my knowledge, all of the cams in K161's have a lobe for a lever.

Did you just hit your head again Jim?

Question on this NOS 4 wheel wagon. If you tow it once is it no longer NOS ? 😂😂

Hey y’all, don’t think for one minute that grease (red, green or blackened) hasn’t been on my boots!

Yeah, he’s different… but he does attract people to saving old iron, and we can’t fault him for the creative ways

Finally checked the mail and it was here. Alex quickly ripped open the plastic and has been reading it. @Pullstart he’s really digging your Horse.

Self driving nap machine

I got the key out. I let it soak for few days, then hit one side down far enough that I could get a screwdriver the width of the slot and pound it down and under the key. It came out pretty well with minimal damage, so I can reuse it. A far as the radiator mounts . . . I was super lucky in that my particular model had round access holes directly under the mounting bolts. That being said, I still needed to get the cotter pin out. Since they were so old, I just rocked both sides back and forth with a pair of long needle-nose pliers until they broke off. Then I tapped the socket on with a hammer and rocked the nut back and forth until it broke the pin the rest of the way and let the nuts come off It worked and the radiator studs remained intact. While I have that all apart, the fan shroud needs replaced so I'll look for one on fleabay. I think based on some tuber videos, I'll use nylock nuts to replace the radiator and skip the cotter pin. I'll pull the fan and clutch mechanism and clean all that up as well while I have it all apart because most of that is difficult to access with the radiator in place. I pulled the front wheels while I was at it and they get new rubber and tubes.