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And I thought the Millennial Theft Protection Device was adequate. Ain't nobody stealing @ebinmaine's truck...

We used both arms back in the day.

Filler plates welded in and made the front pilot bushing mounting plate….. with rounded corners. Also put the piece back on I cut off in my haste. Measured once, cut once and welded back in once. Time to mock up the dash tower/ mounting plates.

One is a collection as far as we are concerned...

Self driving nap machine

It’s a nice day for a tractor ride…. And a nap! @squonk no 10mm sockets, but I found Putt Putt’s (golf) balls!

My first gravel truck 5 and 4 awesome transmission combo, backing up on a muddy site had plenty of speed to make it through the soft spots. My buddy had a Kenworth highway tractor with 5/4 air shift on the auxiliary.. One day Ernie a scrap yard owner asked me to drive a load into Calgary, the morning i was to leave the 80 year old owner climbed into the jump seat. The trip was uneventful just a normal road trip but on our return Ernie said, your the first to never miss a shift on the grades and never seen anyone shift without using the clutch. The other drivers who had missed a shift on grade usually had to come to a complete stop to find a gear.

The unique feature of the 10-pinion differentials is that their pinions do not rotate on shafts or on forged-in pivots--they are loose in the body core. The LSD spring and other internal forces drive the pinions to rub against the walls of the core and the resulting friction provides the “limited slip” function. It makes sense to me that such a break in the core at that narrow section could come from excessive “outward” force on the pinions from: - a sudden shock load on the differential - a foreign object getting wedged between the pinion and the core - worn pinions exerting asymmetric loading on the core

She likes to sarcastically bring up to folks about how many tractors I have. I remind her it's not polite to brag.

This trans was full of water and the brake gear was rusted to the diff gear. I saved this horse from a scrapper about to turn it in for beer money.

I have every confidence that this will be a huge success. If not I will delete this post.

Finally checked the mail and it was here. Alex quickly ripped open the plastic and has been reading it. @Pullstart he’s really digging your Horse.

Maybe gobbler beards and tails.

You got a Tesla Self Driving system on Putt Putt?!?!?! Don't post that one on youtube... FBI drones would be on the way... Lucky girl... Lucky Pullstart...

The body core is the same on gt14, pn# 7200. Little history on the tractor, got it on the cheap, it would roll a couple of feet and stop,( not running ) push back sum and would roll a few feet stop, when I pulled it apart found a small shop rag all ripped up in transmission. Someone was in there before, changed out bolts and lock nuts. Rebuilt the piston to piston pump. Will try and get parts to fix this on

That is why you look at the service bulletin. 2 piece mushroom gear, 8 pinion differential with axles are needed. 8 pinion axles are the same length, 10 pinion axles are not the same length. The parts replace said parts in your 10 pinion transmission or get a whole different 8 pinion transmission and bolt that in.

A 24x12x12 on a 10 or 10.50 wheel is doable but there will be fitment issue to deal with. I think the 9.50 on a 520 8.5 wheel will give you everything you need for the tractor except looks, but looks got nothing to do with function.

An NOS 4 wheel wagon goes for around $800. A restored one would be south of that, but probably more then $500. Pictures would help. This one was NOS. This one was $500

Try that in a Deuce driving cross country and when the wheel kicks you might have a broken arm

Speaking of 8 pinion, if you can not find that piece, you could go 8 pinion differential. That would still be 1 1/8" axles. There is a Service Bulletin that tells you what you need to make the change. Just a thought. Also, it would get you running while you search for the Limited Slip part(s).

Interesting...but sort of explains why when the gas drilling support companies buy new Tri axle water bottles they get automatics.... 43 years ago trying to teach a bunch of GIs (about 35% female) how to drive 5 speed 2-1/2 tons wonder that any of the clutches survived. one of my company clerks (female) almost put me through he windshield of the M-151. I should add the Army gave up... When the Deuces were overhauled and upgraded to M35A3 they got Automatics. 3/4 tons were replaced with commercial utility Dodges later GM's all autos.. Jeeps by Hummves also autos

Crank measures out within specs. I took measurements at 12 different spots & it is only .0003" out of round. Tolerance for out of round according to the manual is .0005" so a stock rod should be good.

The 4 wheel wagons are a sought after item. Some one will be along with an estimated value. When you decide on a price please post it in our want adds section with a picture or two. https://www.wheelhorseforum.com/classifieds/for-sale/

Unfortunately it's at the point of needing to go all out.

I can do that after grinding it out a few times. 😃

Dart board?

Awesome news! A puff out the carb tells me either timing, or possibly a valve cleaning/adjustment is needed. It might be worth pulling the head and inspecting the valves. That rumble could be a carboned up combustion chamber, or could indicate needing carburetor adjustment too.

hi men, many moons ago a guy from PA was bringing me 5 wh tractors. it was close to my birthday. the guy pulls up in front of the house and my wife comes out and say's "which one is yours?" i replied "all of them". she just shook her head and went inside. she has gotten me back though more than once. i came home one day to find we had a new living room set. i said "how much did that cost?" she replied "how many wh's do you have?' i did not say another word. worst part was i had to pay for the living room set and i do not like it.

Mt first time seeing one of these. Didn't know they existed.

Heaven forbid ... I thought they was shrunken heads...

Milkey or a whitish brown... you'll know it on the dip stick or when draining right off.

Took my driver’s test in our 3-on-the-tree truck. Tester complimented me on being smooth on the clutch and I replied “When your whole family is in the car ready to criticize any mistake, you get good or else..." Failed the first test for making a left turn from the right lane of one-way street. Duh.

Well technically, none are finished. I just stop where I stop and "tweak" little things forever more afterward ... But one on the stand, and another almost ready to take back apart and paint is kinda where I've been since last year. Heck I still have carb work to do on the 523-H!

I was thinking just move the 45-degree engine back an inch or three. I got something else I've been working on forever- two tractors actually that need completing before I start anything else!

Yeah - like twacters.....

I inherited an electro 12 a long time ago and it came with that same tiller. I already had a 36” rear mount tiller and didn’t need it so I sold it at the big show. It looked like it had been used once! I believe they are becoming very rare.

It's pretty amazing what can be done with powdered metals these days. I work for a power tool company and we use PM for all sorts of things.....mainly internal drive gears in the transmissions and such. The process is pretty neat, think about it like this........take metal in a powdered form, fill a mold, shake it to remove voids, seal the mold, and then put it in a pressure cooker for X amount of time/temp until the powder forms a solid metal part. Many of those parts are then heat treated after the process for added strength. Like was mentioned above, PM parts are very hard, but also brittle. If they do fail, cracks like in the above pics are a normal failure mode for thin areas.......as are chunks breaking off of gears. Overall, they are very durable and cost effective. Especially with oddball shaped parts that are "easy" to mold but would be a complete nightmare to machine......plus no waste chips all over the floor

I was at a job site today delivering a whole pile of cabinets. The guy there doing the stairway is also the one installing the cabinets, sometime next week. We got to shooting the breeze back and forth like folks will do. On the way out the door he hands me the item in the picture below and says "something for your time?" Like it's a cash tip... 😃 I'm sure most of you will realize that's just a cut off piece of the wrap for the stairway posts. I looked at that and laughed and told him if I brought that home my woman would sure as anything make somethin' out of it. He says, "Really?? Here. Take it. Seriously. Bring it home and tell her to make a small picture frame or something...." I told him I'd let him know..

Kohler engine blocks? I bet! ...

I am the same. I often tell folks that I'm no welder- but I can stick two pieces of steel together so they don't pull apart ...

Going all out.

It's a low temperature solder alloy. Don't know the specifics, but I'll guess tin/antimony. And FWIW, solder is not the best choice for electrical connections. It's good enough for low current through-hole circuit boards and other connections where convenient speed of assembly is a high priority. But really, solder is a much poorer conductor than copper. If you need high reliability or high current capability, crimp or twist first to get good copper contact, then you can flow some solder in to fill and exclude environmental corrosion. Point being, copper should be counted on for most of the electrical work, while solder only does a little but can help in other ways. The self-soldering shrink-on splices don't impress me, and I don't carry or use them.

Nice progress.

In my wiring job today, I used a few of these for some 6 gauge wire. I put a piece of heavy duty heat shrink tubing on either wire just past the stripped end, then slid a larger heat shrink tube over a wire and assembled… then heat shrinked the splice as well. It’s in a breaker box, and I wanted to be sure the wires couldn’t touch each other.

Excellent rustic frame for a picture of... that one tractor... what was it... you know... uhm... oh yeah... Colossus...??? Course by then holograms will be the norm... can you frame a hologram if it doesn't exist?

This Wheel Horse Metal Tag I. D. Topic comes up every once in a while. Here is a copy of the Eherl Horse metal tag reference sheet. It is a good idea to make a copy of this and place in one of your files, three ring binders or manuals for your use. An interesting fact I stumbled on is the metal tags were made by ANCO which is placed on many of the early metal tags. ANCO was the Anderson Wiper Blade Company in Gary, Indiana. The company produced many wiper blades and their yellow ANCO metal displays were at gas stations all across the country in 1950, 60 snd 70s. Dump Cart and Mid grader blade tags pictured.

Moving along on this project. Welded up the one corner that was bad on the hood. Patched the hole that a PO had cut for I'm assuming an exhaust stack. Then after many taps with a hammer & dolly I was able to get the hood to fit on the tractor like it should. Pulled the head off to find a nice surprise. Everything was super clean with a puddle of oil on top of the piston. Not a good thing.. The cylinder walls are polished to a chrome like finish and there is a nice ridge at the top. Knowing what needed to be done I proceeded to tear the engine down for rebuilding. After measuring it looks like .020 over on the cylinder and a stock rod should set things back in order. In the back ground of this pic you can also see that I was able to get some blasting done as well.

I got my first train set, HO scale, when I was 10 years old in 1979, then I really got in to HO scale as a teenager in the 80's. Now I've been in to G scale for almost 20 years. Great fun! and my webpage has a lot of modeling, and NY state railroad history: https://sites.google.com/site/scotlawrence/ Some photos of my Garden Railroad.