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I have used a hand impact driver you hit with a hammer to remove small machine screws.

A trip up to Pennsylvania to my parent's house for Christmas and the subject came up on what to do with the B-80 Wheel Horse. Now unfortunately they are no longer able to use this B-80 so a call was made to my nephews to see if they could the B-80 with mower deck and snowplow and they declined because they had some heavier machinery. Now some history about this Wheel Horse B-80, about 20 years ago my parents owned a Bolens garden tractor that came with the house they bought in 1969. I grew up on the Bolens and it had been welded, sections cut out of the hood and a Chevrolet hi beam headlight welded to the hood, it was worn out and the Bolens was traded for a hood for the B-80 up at Ray's Mower Shop in Boyertown, PA. I gave Dad and Mom the Wheel Horse B-80 ..... I mean why would I let my parents use any other brand! This B-80 was purchased by me from a farmer who used to run a big tractor show every summer and it was in rough shape but repairable. So, in 4-degree weather pulled the B-80 out of the shed, not an easy task being the right front tire was flat ..... that's frozen flat, I could not fill the tire up with air because the tire was off the rim bead and frozen that way. I had to jack the B-80 up and remove the wheel and put inside the house by the heater so it would thaw out and get back into shape. This gave me time to find out that nobody had checked the oil and the oil level was low. Filled the oil up to the full mark and put a charger on the battery. I was told the B-80 was started about 2 years ago so I was optimistic about it running again without major adjustments but in 4-degree weather nuttin' wants to start! With the help of a little either the Kohler 8hp finally started but it would only idle and as soon as the clutch pedal was let up and the drive belt turned the Unidrive drive pulley the engine cut off, the transmission oil was that dang cold! This kept up until the engine finally warmed up, it also helped to back out the carburetor adjustment screws 1/2 turn. The ignition tune up I put on the Kohler 8hp back in 2003 still was good and will start every time with a charged battery. I might use this B-80 for snowplow duty or just to cut the lawn. Wild Bill in Richmond VA

@AHS contacted me a few weeks ago about this little short frame 8 HP he was thinking about selling. I figured it was a great addition to the Herd for Trina. It's her go-to year. 1967. Her go-to engine. Kohler 8. It has excellent straight sheet metal. Good bones, as they say. 🙂 So here's the newest for her... 857.

Finally mounted the 50+ Front Weights, only complaint 6" #8 bolts could've been 1/2" longer for ease of installation. (6" #8 bolts with flat washers and metal lock nuts) 18" on center of the Bell Crank and Drag Link The Toe In is at 40.750 rear and 40.500 front. getting to 1/16-1/8 would be a Royal P.I.T.A.! Lol! Steering has improved, must check tire pressure before use! Another coat of slippery and she's all set!

@ebinmaine The muffler pics. You can see the unused tab that would have been attached to something on a shaker plate mounted motor like the black hoods of the 78-70 C series. @WHX?? Those fronts are Deestone 4.00-8’s mounted on deep rims so they are a bit bulbous.

…. but this was given to me today. It’s a B-80 with the 8 speed tranny!! She runs perfect and all the gears work. Even has headlights. My neighbor and friend @Docwheelhorse comes driving down my driveway with it and says “Merry Christmas ..it’s yours now”! Long story short, he is trying to get all his nice machines into indoor storage. This B-80 was stored inside but he has a new 416 that he wants inside and so the B lost its spot. But he couldn’t bear to leave it outside in the elements, and he knows all mine live inside so I now have it. Last pic is in my shed.

I really need to find a better neighborhood and friends.

My neighbors take all their excess tractors to the auction were I have to buy them.

I have had good results using the hand impact tightening the rusted screw a bit first then going counterclockwise. The tightening seems to shock them loose and shouldn't mess up the heads.

Today is National Fruitcake Day, at some point in history Congress made this a matter of public interest and gave them their own day.

Nice. Send it to Pete for a rub down and lube job

Ya' know Sparky, I have known both you and Tony a long time and the one thing that stands out about Tony is that he has a BIG HEART! I mean who else could love those Briggs and Stratton's the way he does ...... Wild Bill in Richmond VA

Just have to make some mounts

If you want more heat out of your propane torch, use MAP gas instead of propane. Available off the shelf at many hardware stores, here is one source. https://www.walmart.com/ip/WORTHINGTON-CYLINDER-332585-14-1-oz-Pre-Filled-MAP-Pro-Gas-Torch-Style-Cylinder/39944161?wl13=1771&selectedSellerId=0 MAP-Pro gas burns at a temperature of 3,730 degrees Fahrenheit, while propane burns at 3,600 F. Because it heats copper faster and to a higher temperature, MAP-Pro gas is a superior alternative to propane for soldering. If you opt to use it, the manufacturer recommends using a specially designed torch. Adding oxygen to the flame raises the temperature to 5,200 F, which is suitable for cutting and welding steel when precision is not required. Hand impact driver works wonders as well.

I have welded hex nuts to some of these philips head screws to get them loose. Some I have had to drill out.

I use 23x10.50-12’s on the rear of my 1994 520H and 1984 Work Horse GT-1600. Hi-Run ags on the Work Horse and Turfs on the 520H…

Some dew drops and snow flake.

It is so heartwarming to see you two tackle this old iron together. You're both making memories that will last a lifetime (or two), and I congratulate you both!

Oh Boy ... is Sqounky the poster child?

+1 heat it red hot and quench. Thing will back right out of there.

I vote for the hand impact driver. Bought one in 1974 to take side covers off the dirt bike engines, always worked when a screwdriver would not.

Also, if you have a soldiering iron, you could heat the screw for a while without melting the screen. I also like to chase heat with some candle wax or paraffin wax. The heat draws in the wax and the wax lubes the threads. That trick works on the most rusted, salted snowplow truck fasteners there are.

I have room for one more.

I've taken my cut off wheel & cut a straight slot in them before & used my BIG screwdriver to get them out. That was when I was out of acetyline for my torches. If you have torches heat one at a time till glowing red, quench it with cold water & it will come right out.

@ebinmaine https://www.summitracing.com/parts/lil-30750?seid=srese2&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Brands+|+L&utm_term=4582077271705963&utm_content=GSA also check harbour freight tools , oily pete

First rule of sheet metal repair. If you fix it and use it, it will get bent again!

Love this project. Excellent to see you teaching Z the proper organization of disassembly.

I began photography with a "Point and Shoot" camera; the Canon S5-IS. I was amazed at what I was able to capture in Macro Mode. Then I discovered a $45 clip on lens that converted the zoom to serious magnification.

Neat! When I was in high school I worked in the local radio/TV shop after school and during the summer. I'd go in every Sat morning and fix all the new transistor radios kids dropped, they all had broken circuit boards or transistors that popped out of their sockets. I saw the Navy crest by your avatar, I was in the Navy too and an electronics tech, I'm 77 also. What years were you in the Navy? I think I went to ET school around 68 or 69. I went through accelerated where I sat in a room and read a book then took the test for that section, they put me in the repair shop and I fixed all the broken instruments so they said they had an intermittent in the radar that was a dog and would I look at it. I found a coil with a broken lead, not because I was a great tech but because I was a youngster with great eyes - they're long gone! Anyway I came out first in my class and was in Naval intelligence so they sent me to my choice of duty station - Hawaii for my stint and I got to work on the first computers - it was blast! I was there in a secure bunker when the Pueblo got captured and I remember the messages coming over from the ship, we knew those guys they were from our base. What happened is they left port without equipment to blow up the TTY's, they were literally throwing equipment overboard, North Korea got our encryption, it was very scary and we had to take secret measures to block them. The Lt JG captain of the ship got burnt for it. Anyway I was at the base that became the NSA, it's the same place Edward Snowden stole secrets from. I loved the Navy they were great to me and gave me money to go back to college when I got out, for a young kid from a small town it was a great adventure and I'll never forget it. We loved America and worked hard to keep everyone safe - it really meant something and we were proud to part of an elite group. Sorry, I'm going off thread again!

When I was 8 years old my parents asked me what I wanted for my birthday, I said, "a soldering iron". I realized at a young age that if I could do things myself I would save a lot of money, growing up poor helped in that realization! I went on to get a degree in electronic engineering. I worked on the first top secret military computers, got several patents, built, plumbed and wired a house, fixed and welded more things than me and my neighbors can count and even designed lots of stuff. Today I have a nice size home machine shop, a full electronics lab, a watch bench and two villages with tower clocks that I repair and maintain. I'm not dirt poor anymore but I just fixed up a WH 314-8 that had a broken tie rod end that my neighbor gave me for free, the way it looks it won't be my last one. I'll be doing this kinda stuff till the day I die, next April that soldering iron will be 70 years old, it's still in the basement. I figure over my life I've saved easily over a million dollars doing all this stuff myself. I'll never tire of the immense joy I get out of seeing something come back to life that other people never saw the value in.

Thanks guys for the tips and advice. I especially am thankful to @gt14rider for the pictures and manual parts sheets. That is the system that we need for Zach’s machine. Looks like a short “Jack shaft” is needed with a keyway broached in it. Then the appropriately sized pulley attached on to it. Very helpful. Today’s operation was sanding and more sanding once we finished the disassembly. The more that we take apart on this tractor, the more I am impressed with its originality and good condition. Zach literally took the bolt out of the steering wheel, gave it a tug, and slid it right off the shaft. Everything was well greased! He was so excited to start sanding, then a couple of hours later—he was ready to be done😅. But, he is a trooper and I want him to see the value of hard work and tenacity. What do you guys think is the best way to remove those decals? This pic is classic!!! Zach has the ring of red dust all around where his mask was🤣😂 I bought a new tool today! We were at Lowe’s getting paint supplies and I saw that they had a Metabo 5” orbital sander. I have been collecting a variety of their battery operated tools over the last several years. They don’t have the same quality as Milwaukee or DeWalt but for the price point, I certainly can’t complain. I have plenty of batteries and chargers, so I snatched this up and Now we can sand together! That grille is a HOSS!!! We set it on the shop scale and it weighed just shy of 60 POUNDS! Wheel Horse pulled out the stops when building this tractor. Zach weighed the dash and it was 9 lbs, each floorboard is nearly 5 lbs! These tractors are a serious chunk of metal! Thanks Dan @Achto for setting me straight on products for paint! Zach can’t wait to start laying down some color. Thankfully this tractor is straight enough that it won’t take too many repairs to be ready for prime/paint!

If I must say so myself, this place is overflowing with humor tonight and I happen to love it!!!

Thanks Coach!

WAY back there, from what I’m reading!

My first choice is a carbon stick, battery cables and a booster battery. The stick gets red hot in a couple of seconds and the current flowing through the threads will often blow out any rust. Carbon sticks are available from welding supply companies for cutting metal with a stick welder. Every zinc-carbon flashlight cell also has one. Old time mechanics always had some in the tool box. Recycling is not new. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zinc–carbon_battery#:~:text=A zinc–carbon battery (or,the presence of an electrolyte.

I feel like we need some sort of tire fashion show. Various shots of aftermarket tires with sizes and part numbers so that those of us a little nervous about plunking down serious money on new shoes can get an idea of what works and what doesn't. For my part I'm interested in seeing some skid steer tires on a mid-70s rear hub.

A must have tool. IMO

sometimes taking big bites of the dent will stretch the metal enough that it won't want to go back to where it started.

That trick is twice as old as Taryl.

Hey! The line starts back there!

Why Not try to adapt a Bercomac 34-Inch Cab to Your wheel Horses https://us.bercomac.com/products/700271-34-berco-winter-cab since OTC s stopped Making Cabs This Year for the 308 thru 520. Since this is Such a low cost https://www.originalcab.com/Toro-Windbreak-Cab-For-XL-Series-50010.html try adapting it to the 416 or 520 series

Mods let's get this man an insignia...

The guys input above has it covered...

Similar, but they are different. Commonly found on the 70’s C and B series.

A side note : 23 x 10.50 - 12 tires as well as 23 x 9.50 -12 will work on your tractor. https://www.millertire.com/ https://simpletire.com

Here is a list of the blades. 1970-73 model [6-4113 + 6-9622] 1973-74 model [6-4113 + 6-9623] 1974 model [6-4114 + 6-9624] 1974 model 6-2131 1975 model 6-2132 1976 model 6-2133 1976 model 66-42BC01 1977 model 76-42BC01 1978 model 86-42BC01 1979 model 96-42BC01 1980 model 06-42BC01 1981-1984 model 06-42BC02 (Up to here they are 42" wide) 1984-1989 model 06-48BC01 (They are now 48" wide) 1990 model 06-48BC02 (Last blade to have 3 angle positions) 1991-1993 model 06-48BC03 (First blade to have 5 angle positions) 1993-2001 model 79350 - (105-1502 kit adapts 2001 and older GT Classic-Series blades to fit 2002 and later tractors 2002 2004-2009 2012 model 79364 - (105-1501 kit adapts 79364 blade to fit 2001 and older GT Classic-Series) Some 520's required an extension at the rear of the A-frame. It is mounted by a round and that bar fits into the rear axle hitch. These manuals cover the blade back in the day for your tractor. Not much ever changed.

Merry Christmas (day after) gents🎄🎁❤️ I trust you all had a wonderful day with family/friends and I hope you took a few minutes (especially being Sunday) to reflect on the Greatest Gift given about 2000 years ago. He, is after all, the Reason that we celebrate this day all these years later! I know that I’m not as much of a regular on here lately but I still try to keep an eye on things when I can. However, this project on Blackbeard will throw me back into the hobby for a few weeks and I am thankful. I love the shop time with my kiddos. Zach is my youngest and yet he has always enjoyed all things mechanical. He told me a month ago that he didn’t want anything for Christmas except a tool box and basic tools to work on his tractor!!! Guess what he got for Christmas? I’ll post pictures later of him using those tools on his tractor. Anyway, Saturday we started the disassembly on Blackbeard… the right hand tires were completely shot and I finally got around to ordering up a new set. Should be here today or tomorrow. One of the great anomalies with this tractor is how well it was taken care of for so month years but then it sat for a couple of years outside behind a garage and it wrecked the paint. Notice the difference between the top of the fender and the bottom… Everything that the sun/moisture didn’t hit is in amazing condition for being 50 years old. Many of the bolts that Zach is taking apart haven’t been cracked since their assembly 50 years ago in South Bend… He is such a joy to work with and he wants to do everything himself. we are going to make up new metal plates for the dash and tunnel cover. I’ll have to get together with Terry @Vinylguy to make up some new stickers. Still haven’t found the correct double pulley for his tiller…one of these days🧐 I was explaining to Zach the value of his cigarette lighter that is fully functional and unused (as far as I can tell by a visual inspection)…still not sure if he completely understands. We are not doing a “complete” restoration at this time. This is more of a repaint/refurbish. Zach wants it fully functional for work but also looking good. I’m convinced that we can make that happen. So much of this machine is in great shape that it shouldn’t take too much to make it the worker that he desires. “tagging and bagging” is something that I want Zach to learn for future work as well as this project. “Let all things be done decently and in order…” are words found in the greatest Book or all time. Good principle even for a GT refurbish! Parts set aside that need to be repainted…

A little bit late, but Merry Christmas to all.... My WHEELHORSE ORNAMENT is on the tree...EVERY YEAR. My sister Marcia did the wall painting for me (us) last summer.