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Received a picture from Kate tonight. I got butterflies!

Please tell me you got to grease the pans Pete......red and tacky?

After dinner last evening, I noticed Mrs K holding her jaw. She said her jaw ached. I checked her pulse at 186. I called my local urgent care facility and was told to take her directly to the hospital emergency entrance and they would inform them we were coming. I gave her 4- 86mg, aspirins to chew and headed for the local hospital. When we arrived, they were waiting with a wheel chair and wheeled her to a room with 4 nurses and two doctors that immediately plumbed and wired her to a monitor. EKG, IV, oxygen, and slapped on two defib pads as the MD said, just in case. Her pulse was hovering around 180-190 and her BP was low and dropping. They tried a physical procedure where they had her sitting with legs out straight and had her blow hard for 15 seconds and the four nurses quickly flipped her back with legs straight up. This is a procedure to create a blood rush to the brain and trick it into sending a signal for the heart to slow down. They tried this 2x with only a minor drop in the pulse. Next step was an injection of adenosine that dropped her pulse from 180 to 60 in 2-3 seconds and brought her BP up to 110. The heart was pumping normally again. Rapid heart rate( Supraventricular Tachycardia) triggered by an electrical mix up of signals between the brain and heart is a fairly common problem in older females. Many thanks to the York Hospital and the Wellspan Health Care System. Mrs. K is fine and took her 97yo mother shopping and to lunch as she does every Wed. I am fortunate that this lady agreed to marry me 60 years ago and is with me today. Keep hugging those loved ones.

Many of you recall Max Nunn and the fundraising we did for him. When Scott @whfan74 had a meet and greet at his home, there was a special auction where Mike Martino @Wheelhorsestory donated a book signed by the Pond Family. A member from NJ won this book and that was the last we had heard of it, or at least as far as I know. A couple days ago Jason, @CasualObserver sent me a message saying that he saw this book on eBay, and I immediately took a look. Sure enough, this is the original book so I promptly bought it and it is now safely home with me. Apologies to any of the members who may have been bidding on this. This brought back so many memories, both happy and sad. Happy how an entire forum chipped in to both get Max the four wheeler he wanted and sad because unfortunately Max did not survive cancer.

As usual you're getting lotsa good info here - I'll just add a couple that havent been mentioned. 1st, before you start with hammer remove all that old paint so you wont have it in those little 'dimples' to worry with later. Next get some type of sand blaster, even if its only one of those hand held thingys, not only will it remove that old paint in the dimples, but also any rust, and leave you with a slightly 'roughened' surface that filler and paint will stick to much better.

I finally have the Suburban finished after repaint, new tires and repower with a Predator 212. Not a bad looking rig if I say so myself. 😉

I'm going to agree with Kevin about the need to shrink the metal. Use a shrinking hammer. YouTube a video on how to do it. First though, remove all the paint in that area before working the metal. After you have flattened it, a good quality filler should take care of the pits. Just make sure that when reassembling you keep a 1" air gap between the muffler and the hood. EDIT: Looks like Dan beat me to it.

wife been on a baking tear , somebody has to verify that this combination of ingredients is ok for consumption , also had to work for some if it ! chopping nuts , mixing batches , cleaning pans / baking sheets, whew , smells are so overwhelming , its upsetting my fly tying , music, pete

Oh My Eyes... Flash to @Pullstart in his boots, gloves, bandages, flip flops and... tractor... Just...Bad...

Snow . . . sorry to hear that

often refer to aerosol lubrication on dry / faded / neglected paint , basically feeding / recovering that paint . let the oil soak do all the hard work, the related pictures , went thru a 2 day spray , soak wipe down , do it again phase. after 2 soaks , there was a definite color base , used a 6" palm buffer with cleaner wax , paint just came right out as you see it , typically just rub them down wit clean cloth , lubricant , thats what they look like . amazing to me how once recovered , how easy it is to keep it that way . also show a heim joint to plow blade lever rod,

Wow... must be really hard up for articles... In the meantime us regular folks just got seat time on a STOCK '62 moving slush. It gotherdone but I can see a blade on a hydro in my future... HY lift please thank you @Achto.. Blowers were useless... like blowing concrete.

Sounds like you are on the right path to me. When you get ready to apply body filler you will want bare metal and a real good mechanical scratch in the metal 36 to 40 grit. This will give the filler some thing to hold on to. Avoid putting filler over paint, the results of this is rarely satisfactory. Small little pits with paint in them should not be a huge deal but try to dig them out best as you can, a Dremel works good for cleaning them out. Filler should be fine with the heat as long as it is not extreme. 1/2" to 3/4" air space between the side of the exhaust and filler is adequate.

Had fun playing with my snow equipment. The walk behind blower and my C145 with the plow made short work of the wet heavy mess. After moving snow my C145 filed a request for a new drive belt. Silly tractor sat all summer & didn't say one thing about wanting a belt, had to wait until it was time to go back to work.

Been raining buckets here , may have to put pontoons on the horses. cat is walking with her life preserver on.

Valid question. Try it on the metal first. If neither you or Trina get the hang of it - move onto the meat !! Remember where it came from - you may wish to be selective before using it on anything you would eat..... (WOW - was that P.C. or what ??)

I too agree that area may need to be shrunken - particularly if it acts like the bottom of an old oil can when you push on it. There are 2 good methods to shrink a portion of metal - BOTH require a bit of practice to get the desired result. First - the shrinking hammer - done cold, works well - best suited for small areas. Second - localized heat from a torch, followed immediately by placing a rag saturated with water FROM the side you wish to shrink it to. Old bodyman trick. Repeat as necessary. That area of the hood sees the most heat from the exhaust. You need to choose a filler that can withstand repeated heating and cooling. Regardless of the material chosen, keep the thickness to a bare minimum. I have had good success using 2 part JB Weld where heating and cooling were an issue. Repaired a porous 8HP Kohler block on the C81 in the thin area at the rear - there is a mold parting line there that was annoying porous. Three years now, no leak. I bought four OE Ford silver colored alluminum rims in 2015 for winter tires on my Focus. Two were perfect, two had a couple of small chips on the rim edge or spoke. Gouged out the chip areas, patched with JB and repainted all four.

Yes it is. I had a couple fail early as well as an expensive one. There is some indication failure of the electric pumps may be caused by dirt or running dry. I started putting a filter on the pump inlets and it seems to help.

Yeah when I saw the thread title I just assumed @WHX?? was in the woodshed again and was trying an online alternative... Wisconsin is a bit different...

K161 Dating

Well now, I just replied to a 1 1/2 year old question. Hopefully it's been answered already.

This:

Matt we're at a point in time where we NEED to consider replacing the fuel lines as a mandatory maintenance item. I've seen ethanol damage the lines in as little as a few months. If we work on a machine and I don't KNOW the age of the fuel line I replace it without hesitation. It's not an option. No different than replacing an air filter or oil filter.

That's scary Ed. Thank God for your quick reactions and the outstanding doctors. Your picture captures the love of two people meant to be together forever.

I think you'll find the main differences are the location of the lift point on the plow frame and the configuration of the blade angle lever. In general, any short frame plow will work on most short frame tractors and any long frame plow will work on a medium or long frame tractor. Exceptions are the 520s with forward swept axle that need a frame extension kit to move the blade forward enough to clear the tires when the blade is angled.

Glad to hear she is doing ok Ed! My mom told me today, “Well, you’ve got meat in the freezer and warmth in your house. I would say that’s a success.!!” I’m feeling blessed as well. Merry Christmas time y’all!

Gets worse with a hydro lift & down pressure.

That tractor sure was a good plow day bonus. Sure looks good.

Seems every C series has that same problem. Its the heat coming off the muffler that to that same area in just about every one I seen. See if you can make a heat shield or you will have the same issues down the road.

So very sorry your family is going through this. I have donated for Declan and continue to donate to any cause fighting against childhood cancer, and I pray for Declan and all innocent kids going through this.

No, I wish! A cut from Stock 9-1/2" Round, then to the CNC Lathe

Woke up to about 4" to 5" of wet heavy white stuff this morning. No time to do any thing about it this morning. So I jumped in the truck, turn the magic knob to 4x4 and trudged me way through the slop to get to work. Looking forward to getting home to play with my snow equipment. 1 more hour before I break free of the salt mine.

Tough problem to have!!

Honey Bunches of sleet and now snow!

WD-40 is more of a cleaner and water displacer than a lubricant. Yes, it does leave a bit of lube behind - but there are more effective lubes out there. For light duty linkages and such, I'm kind of partial to a drop of good 'ol 3 in 1.

Scrap piece of metal or a scrap piece of meat? You have to admit that's a legitimate question........

Hello everybody! And thanks in advance. Question is are the dozer blades in the 70s interchangeable between the early 70s tractors, the C series, the 300, 400, 500, series and the Classic series? There must be 50 different dozer model numbers, but, I have never had any issue on the ones I have gotten. The standard dozer A frame works on all? The short wheel base dozer from the 60’s is likely not going to work on the later long frame. But, Wheel Horse made the long frame so it was backwards compatible to the short frame tractors. As far as I know, a 1970 42” dozer will work on a 1997 300 series, but its only a 42”, instead of 48”, and vise versa. Isn’t this correct? Thanks for your replies!

The link posted above is a good guide to use for removing your deck. I'll just add a few tips. If the deck is going back on, there is no need to remove the mule drive or belt from the PTO. Just loosen the tension on the belt and remove it from the deck pulley and pull it to the front so it doesn't catch on the deck when you slide it out. After disengaging the deck from the tractor as detailed in the above link, it must be pulled out from the right side (looking forward) of the tractor. It will slide best in a hard surface and by turning the wheels to the left first, there is more room to clear the deck wheels with the tractor wheels. When you slide it out about 6 inches, the lift bar may hang up on the left deck support arm and you may need to reach under and raise the lift arm up over the deck support. To remove the blades, I turn the deck up side down and use a block of wood to wedge the blade to the deck. Then loosen the bottom nut with a proper size socket and breaker bar with a pipe extension for leverage if needed. Much safer to use a long lever and small force to create enough loosening torque. The engine oil drain is a 1/2" capped pipe nipple that is located at the bottom rear left side of the engine. I like to warm the old oil by running the engine for 10 minutes, then raise the front end with a jack or by pulling it up on blocks . Remove the pipe cap and drain the oil in a pan. Replace the cap, lower the front end and fill the engine with the proper oil that is recommended in the manual for your engine and your operating temperature.

You're welcome, hopefully everything will be OK. They may send her home with a remote monitor to track it for a week or so, I've done that several times. The last time I wore one, I had it on at work. The guy from monitoring called me all excited and said I had to go to the hospital immediately. I said no, its just svt doing it's thing. He sain no, this is different, you have to go, they are waiting for you. So I went, next day cardoi Dr came in the room, and asked me why I was there. I told him the monitor guy said I had to. Of course never have any episodes when hooked to the machine. Anyway, no more Ablation attempts, now on max dosage of flecanide, and it's under control . Good luck to you both.

I have had SVT for over 15 years now. Going into an "episode" is a bit scary, especially it it is really intense. I've had 2 surgeries for Ablation that did not work. They have to be able to make it happen on the table to fix it, which it didn't either time. I'm taking Flecanide, and it has been under control for the last 10+ years now. It can also be controlled by "bearing down" on yourself. On one ambulance ride, I grabbed the hand rail hard when going around a corner, and that made it stop. Glad to hear she is ok, hopefully everything goes ok for her

If you call Lincoln at A-Z Tractor Parts he should be able to fix you up with a good arm like the one @Racinbob posted. https://www.a-ztractor.com/

Don't fall for it @RandyLittrell, could be Lucas Red

Had a heavy storm last night and the internet was down. Your memory is better than you give yourself credit for.

The gearbox in the center of the snowblower auger usually contains gear oil and they often leak. There is also a gearbox under a cover where you oil and adjust the drive chain and grease the rear bearing. The gearbox may have a thick fluid in it. You need to determine the fluid level of these in addition to the motor oil and transmission oil of the tractor.

congrats! Did you get the centerfold too?

That's awesome Karl The Max Nunn story touched many hearts here and I remember your commitment to helping them as well. Sometimes things can find their right place Anyone that doesn't know of the Max Nunn story should do search (upper right corner) and read through the the threads.

Great to hear, Ed. Hope you'll have many more years to enjoy together. Today just happens to be our 45th, hope we can do as well as you both have.

Me and my dad finally finished my plow and my dad saved some snow for me and my brother to plow.This was my first time plowing with my 604.It did better than I thought but it shut its self of once but we got it started and it sounded good.

My thinking is that you might want a little 'wiggle room' when trying to wrassle a 65 Lb weight into place. Still use the 3/8" bolt... just make the hole larger to ease installation.

We're still right on the 12+ ...