Leaderboard

After dinner last evening, I noticed Mrs K holding her jaw. She said her jaw ached. I checked her pulse at 186. I called my local urgent care facility and was told to take her directly to the hospital emergency entrance and they would inform them we were coming. I gave her 4- 86mg, aspirins to chew and headed for the local hospital. When we arrived, they were waiting with a wheel chair and wheeled her to a room with 4 nurses and two doctors that immediately plumbed and wired her to a monitor. EKG, IV, oxygen, and slapped on two defib pads as the MD said, just in case. Her pulse was hovering around 180-190 and her BP was low and dropping. They tried a physical procedure where they had her sitting with legs out straight and had her blow hard for 15 seconds and the four nurses quickly flipped her back with legs straight up. This is a procedure to create a blood rush to the brain and trick it into sending a signal for the heart to slow down. They tried this 2x with only a minor drop in the pulse. Next step was an injection of adenosine that dropped her pulse from 180 to 60 in 2-3 seconds and brought her BP up to 110. The heart was pumping normally again. Rapid heart rate( Supraventricular Tachycardia) triggered by an electrical mix up of signals between the brain and heart is a fairly common problem in older females. Many thanks to the York Hospital and the Wellspan Health Care System. Mrs. K is fine and took her 97yo mother shopping and to lunch as she does every Wed. I am fortunate that this lady agreed to marry me 60 years ago and is with me today. Keep hugging those loved ones.

Many of you recall Max Nunn and the fundraising we did for him. When Scott @whfan74 had a meet and greet at his home, there was a special auction where Mike Martino @Wheelhorsestory donated a book signed by the Pond Family. A member from NJ won this book and that was the last we had heard of it, or at least as far as I know. A couple days ago Jason, @CasualObserver sent me a message saying that he saw this book on eBay, and I immediately took a look. Sure enough, this is the original book so I promptly bought it and it is now safely home with me. Apologies to any of the members who may have been bidding on this. This brought back so many memories, both happy and sad. Happy how an entire forum chipped in to both get Max the four wheeler he wanted and sad because unfortunately Max did not survive cancer.

Here is the RIGHT way to remove that Electric PTO clutch. DO NOT use any kind of wheel or hub puller...guaranteed FUBAR. Even though it appears to be shot, it MAY be saved. That is a pre-73 E-PTO and the thread in the middle of it I think is 7/8" x 9tpi. In any case, here is the removal method.

My neighbor who is in his 80’s bought this bronco 14 brand new. The other day he drove it probably 3/4 of a mile to my house in the pouring rain. Reminded me of the Gordon’s fisherman in his full yellow rain gear ! He brought it over and asked me if I could figure out why it’s not charging ( I may need help with that?) and asked if I could find a replacement electric clutch as his is shot. I’ll be putting an add in the wanted section here. I had my loader out the other day to move and power wash some blade decks, so I took a few pictures. Hope you guys enjoy, I know you like pictures!!

Hello everyone. Just joined and my first post. I got a 1973 8hp 4spd last year and just got a 1969 charger 12 yesterday. Guess I got bit by some bug cause I like these machines. Both run and drive but of course need TLC. Looking forward to try to make it to the show in PA next year.

Me and my dad finally finished my plow and my dad saved some snow for me and my brother to plow.This was my first time plowing with my 604.It did better than I thought but it shut its self of once but we got it started and it sounded good.

Here's how I determine the weather in Michigan: Cheers!

What did I do today? Read through the recent posts on this thread. Reflected on the fact that elections matter and have real consequences for owners all over the world. Please vote in all elections.

There are several small engine oils out there that have the proper zinc levels and anti-wear additives in multi-weight versions. Often not so in most any automotive xx-30W. Kohler and Vanguard have name brand air cooled engine oils in 5W-30 and others. Amsoil has multiple flavors of small engine oil as well. Motorcycle oils typically have zinc additives that are no longer available in automotive oils. And of course Rotella is great stuff. Straight or multi grade. But, at the end of the day, fresh oil of automotive type or not is better than dirty old sludge in the sump.

It's right next to the blinker fluid reservoir, directly over the muffler bearings.

On the right side is what is left of the weld I believe. If you look up under the tractor, you should see an arm with a hole and some weld remains around it. Randy

Saw another Georgia WH owner here and enjoyed following your journey with the C-160 tranny. Looking forward to hearing how she works when back in service! The experts on this site are an AMAZING bunch of folks! One of the reasons I got the Wheel horse....addiction.... The C-160 was at the top of my bucket list and over the years I lucked into finding a C-160 Hydro and a 416-8 that is basically the same tractor just newer. Great tractors! You will enjoy it a lot. Drove past Eastanollee yesterday on my way to Piedmont SC. Fellow had an original 701 that I picked up. The round hoods are my current interest as the grand kids love the tractors so wanted ones for them (but not the nut roasters). My big ones are the workers and the round hoods will be for fun! GO DAWGS!

After Alex went in and got warmed up and had some dinner last night he ventured back out to the garage with me to help me with my 2 stage blower. Finally got all the springs hooked up. We also Installed a battery cause I’m sick of pull starting it. Now it just needs tire chains and the carb needs to be cleaned. Ever since I ran it out of gas a few weeks ago it’s been running rough and dies randomly. Must have sucked something up into the carb.

I think we all know the answer Jim, but do not discuss it here. Maybe we can have a forum at the Big Show.

A loader is next on my bucket list, those are both BEAUTIFUL. I have this on a parts tractor, all I know about it is it spins, wires look good, & I'll never use it. You can have it for shipping... I can hook some juice to it tomorrow & see if it works...

We’ll just say I know a guy. He has a diesel pusher motor home. He knows where some off road diesel is sold. The motorhome has fuel fillers on both sides. He strategically placed “GENERATOR FUEL ONLY” above one filler door. 40 gallons to top off his engine tank, many more to top off his generator.

Sorta... the PTO switch is a double pole, one pole inhibits the starter circuit if PTO engaged, and the other pole is in parallel with the seat switch to cut off the ignition. If operator is out of seat and the PTO engaged, ignition is killed. So, if the starter cranks the engine, then that 'half' of the PTO switch is OK, but there could still be an issue with the other 'half' (pole). .

@RandyLittrell extra ketchup , pete

Being familiar with some of your project stories, Yep, if you mount them, you'll have some problems.

Glad to hear she is doing ok Ed! My mom told me today, “Well, you’ve got meat in the freezer and warmth in your house. I would say that’s a success.!!” I’m feeling blessed as well. Merry Christmas time y’all!

IMHO you'd be okay. We have Kohler, Tecumseh and Briggs engines in our fleet. 8, 10 and 16 horse. We run straight 30 year round in everything except my 1974 c160 with a k341. I find that if I leave straight 30 in that engine below about 25⁰ or 30° Fahrenheit it gets pretty angry about starting.

you might be correct on the rim width v. the "yellow line" However I found that over the years, WH changed the position where the center spider was welded to the rim. The rim width was the same at 7 inches, just the offset was different.

Welcome to Looks like it’s the pin to raise the mower. Does the mower deck lift?

Owning and operating a wooden boat you can imagine my respect and need for owning and maintaining quality wood working tools (of which I have all sorts!). And that includes not misusing them. However, I do keep another old set of wood chisels to be abused and resharpened on what ever project they will make easier, wood or not!

just realized my earlier test on coil was wrong, by accident i checked negative side with key in run position, i’ll put coil back on machine now then check positive side of coil with key in run position, see what i get when testing it the way i was told to🤦‍♂️

Diesel & home heating oil are both considered middle refined fuels. Heating oil is a bit thicker than diesel. In most cases diesel can be used in a home oil burner. No road tax on heating oil or off road diesel. With the 2 or 3 gallons per year that Radpferd burns the road tax doesn't really matter that much. But I'm still gonna run off road in him & keep my few cents worth of road tax in my pocket.

I can believe that. So does home heating oil come out of the same big tank at refineries or bulk trucks as off road diesel? I don't think either are taxed? Have to ask @Achto... he burns so much of it in Radpherd!

Bob and Dan have given you some good places to look, Presuming your ignition system is battery powered do you have 12 volts on the "+" post of the ignition coil with the key in the run position? There are three main types of coils that find their way into the points-based tractors, 1. THE CORRECT COIL = this coil has a “internal resistor" within the coil body that restricts the amount of current that flows thru the points and coil combo. The internal primary resistance of this type coil can be measured with a multimeter at about 3 - 4 ohms. If 12 volts powers a 4-ohm resistance, 3 amps flows and that equates to about 36 watts of power - warm but not hot. 2. INCORRECT COIL - REQUIRES EXTERNAL RESISTOR - this look alike is visually identical to the correct coil but its internal wiring can overheat if an "external resistor" is not used in series with the coil. The primary resistance of this coil will be in the 1 - 2-ohm range. The external resistor accounts for another 2 ohms. Properly configured, this combo is the equivalent of the 4 ohm internal resistor coil discussed above. If this coil is used alone, the electrical system will see the lower resistance and double the current flowing thru the coil and points. The result is over-heating the coil and premature eroding away the point's contacts. 12 volts powering a 1.5 ohm circuit equals 8 amps of current flowing and generating nearly 100 watts of heat and energy. We are now seeing the coil get hot. 3. ELECTRONIC IGNITION COILS - these are the high energy bad boys of the ignition world and demand gigantic gulps of current to operate as intended. They will fry points within minutes. The primary resistance of this style coil is usually well under 1 ohm and current draw can be near 20 amps. These coils are fine if you drive them with electronic ignition modules. They will fry GT wiring very quicky. 20 amps of current flowing thru this circuit generates over 200 watts of power. Wires melt, points vaporize. Measure your primary ignition coil resistance. Anything less than 3 ohms and you have either a shorted coil or an incorrect coil on the tractor. A correct coil should be labeled "12 volts" . If you see "external resistor required" on the coil or the coil looks like it came out of a spaceship, you have the wrong coil.

My version- Weights - 4, Fluid Filled tubed tires - 4, Chains - rear, Turf tires - rear, AG tires - front, (AG'g stay on all year, without the homemade weights in the summer)

What model tractor are you working on? Does it have battery ignition - (automotive style coil) or magneto ignition (coil that is under the fan shroud)? Does the tractor have points, if so have you cleaned and set the gap on them? Sorry for all the questions, just need more info.

Didn't do it. I took the excellent advice above and decided it wasn't safe. I have NO desire to damage our tractors or us.

...they have books that teach the ladies how to perfect that look, as well as many others! My wife has the Encyclopedia Britannica version...

Farmer...win Edog...win,win

I don't what the rules are around here EB just don't get caught with red dyed stuff in yer duramax.. I gotta believe the loggers load hundreds at a crack for their timber machines. Right on bros... my leaky old shed of a place I hang my hat not a problem but newer tighter houses I dunno man... In other words Kev be careful ... we don't give a rats @ss about you it's my girls we worry about!

@Blasterdad Holy cow ! Yes I’ll gladly pay the shipping, thank you so much! This gentleman says he’s wants to pay me for working on his tractor. I would never ever take a dime from him, as this is what I (oh and we ) love to do. Plus he’s just a genuinely nice guy. He really loves his tractor and I’m honored that he entrusts me to fix it. Once again Red Square brings nice people together. Thank you!

Here’s a video of all the fun!

I think you are correct Lane. When I started working on this 953, I visualized it being fabricated on an assembly line where it could be rotated on all positions for the welding and painting. Then rotated upside down for the installation of the fuel tank and transmission. Welding is certainly a cost savings over machining, drilling, tapping, and bolting components together. But expensive for the repair and rebuilding guy.

Had to rearrange some snow flakes today. After 20 years of moving snow flakes with WHs. ranging from an L107 with a plow and a blower to some gear drive C series and a 418A.. Bottom line the best is a Sunstrand hydro. Guys talk about what you need to put on the blade to keep the snow from sticking...never a problem snow dry or snow wet 6.5 mph it rolls right off. Reverse is fast.

Hauled Amigo parts outside with Alice for cleaning. Dan says put it back together then wash but if i wait more than a day I'll forget how it came apart. Part are unobtainium and a looonnngg way out... Spraying everything down with WD eliminated flash rust.

Yep, all ready in the works Randy. Thanks

I put the mower into a shop for fuel problems. They took deck off for sharpening . No , the deck wasn’t lifting so I bought a generic clevis pin and stuck it in The pin i photographed was found some time later. The pin Didn’t seem to have any means of staying put and serving as the lift pin so I figured I’d try posting it. I guess it it was just badly worn and lost it’s original dimensions . I will search and hopefully find the OEM part as the pin is a little skinny. thank you for you response.

This is the reason we sought out a second tractor that would have the same console lever control as the camp tractor (520-H). Ended up with a 312-H. Once you break the brake pedal (i.e. clutch) habit after switching from 8-speed to hydro, it's easier to have the controls be in the same places! Still, someday I might look at better configuring the four controls you need when plowing snow so you have (steering, direction, lift, and angle). At the moment, those are all hand controls. Switching to a pedal motion control puts that on a foot, Steering stays with one hand. The trick (as I think @ebinmaine has wondered) is how to combine the plow's lift and angle controls into a gloved or mittened one hand operation. I suspect the coolest would be a joystick lever with a button--fore/aft for lift, side-to-side for angle, and the button for releasing the angle lock*. * lock only needed if using manual or electric actuator-enabled movement--hydraulic self-locks

Interesting that you guys have to think about where to get off road diesel. We just take it for granted that it's available within every 10 or 20 miles maximum. So many loggers and excavators. Road construction or larger construction sites, they just get it delivered like home heating oil. Right off a peddle truck.

12 foot drifts????? Y'all can keep that stuff! We rarely get enough snow to make a drift, and I'm thankful. I love to see the snow when (if) we get any, but I love to see it gone in just a day or two. Note to self: no more complaining about the heat in summer. It's a fair trade!

All of what Achto said, plus I would replace plug, not questioning your testing abilities but have seen good looking plugs not fire for whatever reason. Bob

I always figured that the UAW autoworkers guys that were employed by Wheel Horse at this time brought their knowledge from working at Studebaker in South Bend where the first unibody welding of an automobile (the Studebaker 1959 Lark) was useful in making the 953/1054! That’s my theory and I am sticking to it!

If he runs with that, I wanna know how it turns out!

Time for the Suburban to get some new shaft seals. Both hubs fought the whole way, but heat/quench worked pretty good! How old do you think the crusted oil is?

Sure https://www.wheelhorseforum.com/topic/101169-c-160-buyer-package/