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You go to the grocery store and park next to this.

how about when your grandson drives his 520 HC to school parking lot

The company I started my engineering career with was a subsidiary of Goodyear. A story came out of the Goodyear AG tire development group about a farmer that was experiencing wear issues with his tractor tires. The tire dealer reported to Goodyear that he had supplied 2 sets of tires because of excessive wear. Goodyear sent an engineer out to interview the farmer and see what the actual work invironment was like. Supposedly, the engineer arrived at the farm, knocked on the door, and the farmer's wife answers the door. When asked if the farmer is home, she answers "no, he went to town to get coffee, you can find him at the diner". The engineer asks which diner? She says, you can't miss his tractor parked out front. The engineer catches up with the farmer, buys the coffee for him, and they talk about the tractor tires. Turns out that nothing about the field work the tractor did was unusual. This confused the engineer. He asks the farmer why he happened to drive the tractor into town that day. The farmer says "I drive the tractor into town every day for coffee because it has air conditioning and a better stereo than my truck". The farmer didn't get any more tires replaced by Goodyear.

I ran this exercise this year with my 314-8.......and by exercise, I mean the 3 trips to Tractor Supply in an attempt to get a "proper" length belt. No matter what I tried, I couldn't get it to take off smoothly AND shift gears smoothly. One or the other, but not both. I monkeyed around with the clutch linkage, adjustments, belt routing, springs, anything I could think of. Then I finally drove the extra few miles out of my way and bought the proper part number belt from the local Toro dealer. It takes off and shifts buttery smooth now with no more wheelies or grinding. I hated the price, but it is what it is, and I'll probably never have to buy another one, so OEM from now on for me as well

The idler pulley may have a belt guide that is designed to pinch and stop the belt from moving when the clutch is depressed. Maker sure this belt guide is adjusted correctly to pinch the belt. to the

This looks like the rig my Dad drove in the '50s. He hauled Jeeps for Dallas and Mavis Forwarding Co. in Toledo, Ohio and had three of these Snub Noses on the road for a few years. He owned the tractors and D&M owned the trailers. Weekends were spent changing tires, oil, and greasing 5th wheels.

So I'm starting an installation thread on a powered snowblower chute deflector. I purchased a Firgelli Automations premium linear actuator FA-35-12-6-P. It's a 35 lb force, 6 inch travel. I carefully measured the travel of my deflector on my 2 stage blower and it's 6 1/8". Now I know a few people have gone with the 4" throw but I feel I should be OK with this.

I've been working on a friend's 312-8. It never had a lift arm on it since he got it. Some dingbat sawed it off and placed a rubber cap over it. Getting the rockshaft out is gonna be fun... Otherwise it's pretty solid. Just needs a few little things. Shifter pivot pin was broken, electrical was long overdue some attention.

Gasoline easily dissolves the oil out of them but the old brake lining material isn't near as good as the new "rubber type" like Bob sells. The new stuff has much better friction properties. Tastes good! LoL

I ordered a new seat from Tractor Supply and installed it. It fit right on my seat supports and is a great upgrade from the original 35 year old seat. This one adjust with a lever and has great back support. It appears to be well made and for $84.99 a great deal!

Not what I did to it, but what I got for it. My 1533's came in so we can get the C-160 tranny back together. And I picked up a nice 36" mower deck for it. The 48" that came on it was patched in a couple places, rusted through in the corner and bent up some from a rough previous life. I planned on using it as is until something good came along. Well it came along. The new 36" looks as good as any that I have found of this vintage. I'll take it apart and give it a deep cleaning, geese the spindles, sharpen / balance the blades, and get a new belt on it. There is a small amount of surface rust on the underside that I will treat with Rust Reformer. Does the undercoating that I've seen some people do really help?

@WHGuy413 I was watching a 50/200 zero video the other day. The guy said I should plan for a box of ammo for sighting my gun, a box for hunting for the season. I am still on box 1, with 4 deer in the freezer. Wild stuff! As for a hunting update here, Sunday is the last day of the season I can shoot a buck. Still have a tag for 4or more points on a side, so a 7 or bigger, likely (unless it’s a broken antler deer). Tonight it’s supposed to get pretty chilly and 10am tomorrow start snowing 1-3” all day. A perfect time to sit in a tree and wish on a big one! Saturday evening I might be able to sit, but we have plans otherwise. I still have my buck and a doe tag. We could survive the year with the meat we have, but I enjoy sharing and cooking for others too. I’d love to take two bucks in a year again, like 2018!

ezra , was getting a flight physical today , steadily making steps on to a flight crew , crew chief , you fail any step , your toast , this film is a another part of it , my son just sent it me , grandpa , Pete

Our basement has been an untamed lion for 5 years. With some hired help of a friend’s daughter, we are getting closer to some organization. Imagine all those totes… plus three truckloads of Goodwill donations, plus numerous FB giveaways, plus random trash, with no racking or method. The rack on the left is 12’ and the right is 8’6”. This house was built in 1992 or 1996… but there has never even been a power outlet down here. Just a temporary plug on the pull cord lights. I stuck one in on a dedicated 15a and it made me happy indeed.

Same thickness different patterm

@ebinmaine all good points especially the gloves. Kind of thinking now that it would be better as a long toggle switch like the electric lift. Thanks

Looking forward to seeing this. Plenty of pics would be great. I've learned to mentally or even physically put myself in the position of usage. Think about your habits and procedures. What does each hand do while driving or operating the snowblower? Be sure to consider that you'll likely be wearing gloves which require a little extra area around things.

A little tongue-in-cheek humor. The vendor is me. Find me in the vendor section. Bob's Wheel Horse Brake Linings and more.

I also purchased these mounts. One to go on the handle of the deflector and one to mount lower on the body of the chute.

So I had previously bought a hitch for a larger horse and after trying to fit it to my Suburban like I had seen in another older post I found that it indeed did not fit without modification. So today I finally got time to retrofit the larger heavier duty more gooder better hitch to the Suburban. It's been about a year since I've fired up the welder but she ain't coming loose. Lol.

I made custom vellumoid gaskets for model hydro turbine components for more years than I like to remember. I stocked 3' long rolls of 1/64, 1/32, and 1/16. The gaskets were made by cutting a piece that covered the flange surface, glueing to one surface using contact cement, cut the inside and outside with an xacto knife keeping the knife perpendicular to the edges of the flange. Then use the xacto to find the bolt holes and cut a small X in each hole. Then I had a set of rods with a semi spherical end for different size holes. Set the correct size rod over the X and tap out the bolt hole. Of course a small ball peen hammer can be used and tapped with another hammer.

Got a call from my buddy who runs the local tire shop today. A Wheel Horse guy needs a wheel for a 6-12 tire (5” wide wheel). Come to find out, it’s for a 1045! He keeps the tractor in NC and hopefully soon he’ll join here. We looked all over the shop for a spare skinny wheel with no luck. Just before he left, I looked up with an idea and ended up selling him a wheel off the yard art. I replaced it with a 7” wide wheel and 23-7.50-12 tire. He’ll be able to work his tractor down there this winter and I wrote my yard art off as free! Win/win!

Nothin like planning ahead there guy. 'Sides yer supposed to have another project on the table while waitin for parts.... Can you say Molaasses!?!?! Boy if that don't sound like @Achto !

Regular thing at the shop in village near me. Especially 12-1 o'clock midday. There was a combine harvester one day.

Those tires say it’s got a lot of road miles on it!

My friend uses a Ford dozer blade, that fits perfectly in the belly hitch. It has a long "arm" on the same side as where the WH lift arm should be. The PO had fabbed a winch for it mounted to the center pedestal and deleted the factory arm. Not sure if the arm went first or was cut to make room for the winch. I'm guessing the spring in the release broke or something similar. The whole assembly is relatively rust free and moves without binding. Really makes no sense to me. I have another lift arm, and I'm gonna weld a small tab for a link to his blade. It will bring it back as close as can be to factory.

You say that it shifts smoothly. You mean that it goes into gear without grinding? Wheel Horse manual transmission do not have synchronizers, therefore are not to be shifted on the fly.

Had a spare couple racking pieces and fashioned a coat hanger rack.

More parts storage 😁

I think the sticks are a 3912.

The older ones I burn off with a small heat wrench. They seem to be made of some kind of knit material. Once it gets hot enough the oil wicks out like an kerosene lamp wick and burns off. No issues with the lining coming off so far. Betting the older ones were made of asbestos? Doubt if this would work on Bob's linings. My go to for your linings is Gorilla glue Bob.

The chute rotator is on the left side.

To control it, I got a waterproof momentary switch. Any suggestions as to the best location for switch installation? It's on a 416-8. I could make a cut out on the upper or lower dash area to snap the switch in or perhaps create some sort of mount that would attach to the side of the dash area. I previously had a rocker switch for a winch mounted on an L bracket to the right of the throttle control.

First you need to find where the oil is coming from and fix it. Then soak the brake band in a mixture of water and Dawn dishwashing liquid for a couple of hours. Scrub with a stiff brittle brush or wire brush. Rinse, and then dry with a hair dryer or put in your wifes oven at about 200 degrees. If that doesn't fix it, there is a vendor on here who sells excellent brake linings.

I’d use 2” solid foam, cut to fit and glue them in. Then foam around where needed.

It can be done. I've done it. I use multiple cut off disc's and stack to the correct thickness. Then cut on junk steel a bit to size all the wheels the same.

I can only help so much...

Bench grinder with a long cord. Un bolt it from the bench and you can use it at any angle!

We used battes in addition floor joists and bought the metal staves that made it a quick and easy task. We had another house that had chicken wire under the floor joists holding up all the insulation batting! I agree the spray foam is not a friendly worker /workaround stuff once applied. But either one will make a big difference in warmth and heating!

Oooohhh good luck with that. Best have a wheel that is really square. Maybe try cutting the outside slots with a thin dremel cut off wheel?? Reminds me of Dan's lathe ... a grinder with the motor running!

I'd like to get this thing put back together this weekend so I decided to pick up a roll of sheet goods as suggested. What I ended up with is 1/32nd Felpro Karropak. @Oldskool Mike being as ornery as he is 🤪 was nice enough to send me a set of those. Should be a good experiment.

Ease of application and the ability to cover larger areas quickly. My crawlspace is 'sealed'. Spray foam on all the rim and sill, 2" foam insulation on the walls, and the whole thing, walls and floor, completely covered with vapor barrier.

Thanks for the suggestions. I didn't think about the upright for crank handle. Perhaps if I picked up a plastic box that I could cut out for the switch and attach to that upright. What I was thinking was to make a dash cut out to snap the switch in and then use a 2 pin waterproof quick disconnect so I could disconnect near the backside of the dash/ battery area and then the remainder if the wiring would stay with the blower when removed from the tractor. I would also run it inside some plastic loom.

As long as it has a FEL the groceries can get home.

I just make my own, preferring a cereal box, but anything similar will do - bout 10 min and I got it.........

Fluid return line going to filter...

Are you gonna keep the chute rotator on the right side?

Finished with transmission disassembly this evening. Got the axles out and differential set aside. Most bearings are in good shape. I did find the cause of the metal pieces/chunks being in the bottom of the case. Bad bearing... Note the missing cage side. The (thrust?) washer that rides on it has a bit of scuffing but appears usable. On the plus side I have 2 good used bearings setting in the case that came out of the 1970 Charger Hydro project that was parted out. In between fiddlin' around with the transuhmasshion I popped the carb and fuel pump off. Set them aside. Trina's fun for the couple hours was experimenting with a hammer and dolly set. The hood has a good selection of dings n dents. She's been smashing crashing and bashing to flattenize them. After that she used a semi flexible sanding block with 240 grit sandpaper to scuff off the top of the paint. Kind of get a feel for where things are. It was quite well orange peeled in some places. Also let's her see the highs and lows.

Also check the outlet nipple for cracks that could leak when you have the hoses tugging on it.