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You go to the grocery store and park next to this.

how about when your grandson drives his 520 HC to school parking lot

The company I started my engineering career with was a subsidiary of Goodyear. A story came out of the Goodyear AG tire development group about a farmer that was experiencing wear issues with his tractor tires. The tire dealer reported to Goodyear that he had supplied 2 sets of tires because of excessive wear. Goodyear sent an engineer out to interview the farmer and see what the actual work invironment was like. Supposedly, the engineer arrived at the farm, knocked on the door, and the farmer's wife answers the door. When asked if the farmer is home, she answers "no, he went to town to get coffee, you can find him at the diner". The engineer asks which diner? She says, you can't miss his tractor parked out front. The engineer catches up with the farmer, buys the coffee for him, and they talk about the tractor tires. Turns out that nothing about the field work the tractor did was unusual. This confused the engineer. He asks the farmer why he happened to drive the tractor into town that day. The farmer says "I drive the tractor into town every day for coffee because it has air conditioning and a better stereo than my truck". The farmer didn't get any more tires replaced by Goodyear.

I ran this exercise this year with my 314-8.......and by exercise, I mean the 3 trips to Tractor Supply in an attempt to get a "proper" length belt. No matter what I tried, I couldn't get it to take off smoothly AND shift gears smoothly. One or the other, but not both. I monkeyed around with the clutch linkage, adjustments, belt routing, springs, anything I could think of. Then I finally drove the extra few miles out of my way and bought the proper part number belt from the local Toro dealer. It takes off and shifts buttery smooth now with no more wheelies or grinding. I hated the price, but it is what it is, and I'll probably never have to buy another one, so OEM from now on for me as well

The idler pulley may have a belt guide that is designed to pinch and stop the belt from moving when the clutch is depressed. Maker sure this belt guide is adjusted correctly to pinch the belt. to the

This looks like the rig my Dad drove in the '50s. He hauled Jeeps for Dallas and Mavis Forwarding Co. in Toledo, Ohio and had three of these Snub Noses on the road for a few years. He owned the tractors and D&M owned the trailers. Weekends were spent changing tires, oil, and greasing 5th wheels.

So I'm starting an installation thread on a powered snowblower chute deflector. I purchased a Firgelli Automations premium linear actuator FA-35-12-6-P. It's a 35 lb force, 6 inch travel. I carefully measured the travel of my deflector on my 2 stage blower and it's 6 1/8". Now I know a few people have gone with the 4" throw but I feel I should be OK with this.

I've been working on a friend's 312-8. It never had a lift arm on it since he got it. Some dingbat sawed it off and placed a rubber cap over it. Getting the rockshaft out is gonna be fun... Otherwise it's pretty solid. Just needs a few little things. Shifter pivot pin was broken, electrical was long overdue some attention.

Gasoline easily dissolves the oil out of them but the old brake lining material isn't near as good as the new "rubber type" like Bob sells. The new stuff has much better friction properties. Tastes good! LoL

I ordered a new seat from Tractor Supply and installed it. It fit right on my seat supports and is a great upgrade from the original 35 year old seat. This one adjust with a lever and has great back support. It appears to be well made and for $84.99 a great deal!

Not what I did to it, but what I got for it. My 1533's came in so we can get the C-160 tranny back together. And I picked up a nice 36" mower deck for it. The 48" that came on it was patched in a couple places, rusted through in the corner and bent up some from a rough previous life. I planned on using it as is until something good came along. Well it came along. The new 36" looks as good as any that I have found of this vintage. I'll take it apart and give it a deep cleaning, geese the spindles, sharpen / balance the blades, and get a new belt on it. There is a small amount of surface rust on the underside that I will treat with Rust Reformer. Does the undercoating that I've seen some people do really help?

@WHGuy413 I was watching a 50/200 zero video the other day. The guy said I should plan for a box of ammo for sighting my gun, a box for hunting for the season. I am still on box 1, with 4 deer in the freezer. Wild stuff! As for a hunting update here, Sunday is the last day of the season I can shoot a buck. Still have a tag for 4or more points on a side, so a 7 or bigger, likely (unless it’s a broken antler deer). Tonight it’s supposed to get pretty chilly and 10am tomorrow start snowing 1-3” all day. A perfect time to sit in a tree and wish on a big one! Saturday evening I might be able to sit, but we have plans otherwise. I still have my buck and a doe tag. We could survive the year with the meat we have, but I enjoy sharing and cooking for others too. I’d love to take two bucks in a year again, like 2018!

ezra , was getting a flight physical today , steadily making steps on to a flight crew , crew chief , you fail any step , your toast , this film is a another part of it , my son just sent it me , grandpa , Pete

Our basement has been an untamed lion for 5 years. With some hired help of a friend’s daughter, we are getting closer to some organization. Imagine all those totes… plus three truckloads of Goodwill donations, plus numerous FB giveaways, plus random trash, with no racking or method. The rack on the left is 12’ and the right is 8’6”. This house was built in 1992 or 1996… but there has never even been a power outlet down here. Just a temporary plug on the pull cord lights. I stuck one in on a dedicated 15a and it made me happy indeed.

Same thickness different patterm

@ebinmaine all good points especially the gloves. Kind of thinking now that it would be better as a long toggle switch like the electric lift. Thanks

Looking forward to seeing this. Plenty of pics would be great. I've learned to mentally or even physically put myself in the position of usage. Think about your habits and procedures. What does each hand do while driving or operating the snowblower? Be sure to consider that you'll likely be wearing gloves which require a little extra area around things.

A little tongue-in-cheek humor. The vendor is me. Find me in the vendor section. Bob's Wheel Horse Brake Linings and more.

I also purchased these mounts. One to go on the handle of the deflector and one to mount lower on the body of the chute.

So I had previously bought a hitch for a larger horse and after trying to fit it to my Suburban like I had seen in another older post I found that it indeed did not fit without modification. So today I finally got time to retrofit the larger heavier duty more gooder better hitch to the Suburban. It's been about a year since I've fired up the welder but she ain't coming loose. Lol.

I made custom vellumoid gaskets for model hydro turbine components for more years than I like to remember. I stocked 3' long rolls of 1/64, 1/32, and 1/16. The gaskets were made by cutting a piece that covered the flange surface, glueing to one surface using contact cement, cut the inside and outside with an xacto knife keeping the knife perpendicular to the edges of the flange. Then use the xacto to find the bolt holes and cut a small X in each hole. Then I had a set of rods with a semi spherical end for different size holes. Set the correct size rod over the X and tap out the bolt hole. Of course a small ball peen hammer can be used and tapped with another hammer.

Got a call from my buddy who runs the local tire shop today. A Wheel Horse guy needs a wheel for a 6-12 tire (5” wide wheel). Come to find out, it’s for a 1045! He keeps the tractor in NC and hopefully soon he’ll join here. We looked all over the shop for a spare skinny wheel with no luck. Just before he left, I looked up with an idea and ended up selling him a wheel off the yard art. I replaced it with a 7” wide wheel and 23-7.50-12 tire. He’ll be able to work his tractor down there this winter and I wrote my yard art off as free! Win/win!

Nothin like planning ahead there guy. 'Sides yer supposed to have another project on the table while waitin for parts.... Can you say Molaasses!?!?! Boy if that don't sound like @Achto !

Regular thing at the shop in village near me. Especially 12-1 o'clock midday. There was a combine harvester one day.

Those tires say it’s got a lot of road miles on it!

My friend uses a Ford dozer blade, that fits perfectly in the belly hitch. It has a long "arm" on the same side as where the WH lift arm should be. The PO had fabbed a winch for it mounted to the center pedestal and deleted the factory arm. Not sure if the arm went first or was cut to make room for the winch. I'm guessing the spring in the release broke or something similar. The whole assembly is relatively rust free and moves without binding. Really makes no sense to me. I have another lift arm, and I'm gonna weld a small tab for a link to his blade. It will bring it back as close as can be to factory.

You say that it shifts smoothly. You mean that it goes into gear without grinding? Wheel Horse manual transmission do not have synchronizers, therefore are not to be shifted on the fly.

Had a spare couple racking pieces and fashioned a coat hanger rack.

More parts storage 😁

I think the sticks are a 3912.

The older ones I burn off with a small heat wrench. They seem to be made of some kind of knit material. Once it gets hot enough the oil wicks out like an kerosene lamp wick and burns off. No issues with the lining coming off so far. Betting the older ones were made of asbestos? Doubt if this would work on Bob's linings. My go to for your linings is Gorilla glue Bob.

The chute rotator is on the left side.

To control it, I got a waterproof momentary switch. Any suggestions as to the best location for switch installation? It's on a 416-8. I could make a cut out on the upper or lower dash area to snap the switch in or perhaps create some sort of mount that would attach to the side of the dash area. I previously had a rocker switch for a winch mounted on an L bracket to the right of the throttle control.

First you need to find where the oil is coming from and fix it. Then soak the brake band in a mixture of water and Dawn dishwashing liquid for a couple of hours. Scrub with a stiff brittle brush or wire brush. Rinse, and then dry with a hair dryer or put in your wifes oven at about 200 degrees. If that doesn't fix it, there is a vendor on here who sells excellent brake linings.

I’d use 2” solid foam, cut to fit and glue them in. Then foam around where needed.

I can only help so much...

What where who me?!?!? Problem is the 10 minutes it might take to make one might cut into my cocktail hour and I can have a cocktail while I am ordering it from Lowell ...

LOOK AT THE VIDEOS...DANG IT !!! Yes, I am yelling at you. Google cutting your own gasket.

Is this the 414-8 in your profile info? Is it plastic? Try finding a piece of metal like flat bar that is too large to slip fit. Get it hot and insert it into the broken off plastic, melting it’s way through. It should get you enough grip to pop it loose and turn it out.

it is tedious and frustrating, but an insulated basement (including the floor) makes a HUGE difference in comfort there and in the floor above. Plus it can save a lot of heating energy. One advantage I had of framing all the walls was being able to put in plenty of outlets and run wiring for lighting. One of the smarter moves I made was to put outlets on the ceiling running to switches near the stairway. I've used LED tube lights from the Habitat for Humanity ReStore (~$15 each) that now just plug in and as I leave the basement I can turn them all off from the same place.

I'd like to get this thing put back together this weekend so I decided to pick up a roll of sheet goods as suggested. What I ended up with is 1/32nd Felpro Karropak. @Oldskool Mike being as ornery as he is 🤪 was nice enough to send me a set of those. Should be a good experiment.

Nety ney Jose... never foam over batting . foam first then batting if needed. You foam over batting yer done you can't get at moldy batts without ripping out foam. Your construction you want to foam right in the box sills right up against the rim board. Don't matter what the floor joists or rim board are. Lap the foam right down over the sill plate and onto the foundation wall. This seals all air gaps in the sill plate to foundation connection. Continue right down the foundation wall you got the coin. Any wall studs & wiring should be in first. Typically this is the last thing that gets done in say a basement finish off just before drywall goes on. You can stop just a couple inches down and batt the rest. I would do the whole wall... seals micro cracks that might be in the foundation & no vapor barrier needed. At least 3 inches in the box sills and nothing further needed. 1" foam = R-5 you know that. You think yer gonna do any kinda square footage with the big box stuff yer on crack. Needs to come out a 55 gallon drum which means a professional insulator. Prolly cheaper too. That froth pak is just for a small exterior wall project and its a getting it out of the can and a even coat. Don't ask me how I know. Yer paying for the cans not what's inside the cans and the gun to get it out that yer gonna throw away when done.

I used 6" fiberglass batts with vapor barrier painstakingly cut for each joist spacing before framing and insulating an interior wall (gapped and vapor barriered) on the entire basement wall. I had no money to hire a pro at that time, Today, I'd be very sure I'd planned properly for penetrations (existing and anticipated future) and get a pro to foam them. I would NOT count on the insulating foam to "heal" any defects. Better to find and secure it all with the proper sealing foam (low or no expansion, depending...) or other repair before going ahead with insulation. Biggest challenge with foam insulation is making D A M N sure that no moist heated air can get through to the cold wood where it'll condense and lead to mold in one season and then rot or insect infestation soon after.

We have had an air hockey table since we moved in, never been set up. That, and we have an old BSA Pinewood Derby track too.

I have tried all of the answers, the transmission is good, shifts well when turned off, it is winter here so i have put the tractor up for now. In the spring i will buy the exact belt for the wheel horse, if i can find it, If that doesn't work i will post pictures for everyone, thanks for all your help. Maybe when i put the cover on the post has to be adjusted?

Added two all original 1967 model 857 and a 1968 commando 8 to the garage . Nice to see there is still some true original survivors still out there .

Pretty sure he has them. Might want to give him a jingle. Didn't we get them from him when we did that Bronco refresh @Achto?

Is the belt you bought fabric covered?

I had a Maverick... back in 79 ! When it was a car and not at all what they are today. I loved my Mav. 302 V8, 4 speed, believe it weighed like 2700 lbs. I had headers, duel point ignition, Hurst Competiton Plus shifter, racing wheels. That little car was fast. Found myself at Spencer Speedway on the weekends for some drag racing. Then drove around all week with my ET times writen on the windshields thinking I was a bada$$.... oh to be 17 yrs old again. Funny ending to the story... I had this car for like 5 years then I traded my Grabber for a 71 El Camino and some cash .... Now the Maverick is back and its KINDA like a modern day El Camino

a #21 woodruff Key (1/4' thick, 9/16" tall, and 1 & 1/4" long)