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I crossed the line today. I have always told Beverly that 9 of anything is an assortment but 10 would be a collection. Meet number 10.

@ebinmaine Why didn’t you put this in the restoration thread ?… same tractor isn’t it, and aren’t you taking the plastic off as part of the restoration ? … make it easier for your fans on here to keep up with what Trina’s doing…

Find an open end wrench that is a good fit on the shaft and the bottom of the "handle" Use the Heat gun, but judiciously - don't overdo it. Use a heavy glove, better yet, one of those silicone grippy pads for opening bottle caps. Grip the handle, give it an upward twist while applying upward pressure on the wrench below. Steady pressure - don't have a "Bumps and Bruises" event once it comes loose and whack your noggin with the wrench!! Unless Trina films it.....

Ya know. ..... That is true.... Some are inside the transmission. Some are not.

Tis the season for changing the Jeep's summer tires for snow tires. Clyde got tapped for a little cart hauling time to get the winter tires from the shed out to the driveway and return the summer tires to the shed for storage. Note the fresh painted front wheels and new 5 ribs. I was really surprised at how well Clyde fired up. He hasn't been run for about 2 months and his battery was down. The starter would spin, but not engage the flywheel. I put a charger on the battery for maybe 15 minutes. Was enough. He fired right up in maybe two crankshaft revolutions. Interesting story on the Jeep. Before we left for Kentucky a week ago, we had noticed a "clunk" noise in the drivetrain when backing out of a parking spot with the front wheels turned to full lock. Dropped it off at the local dealer. Turns out that it was something in the rear driveshaft - it was replaced. Now the good news - it was covered by warranty! My bill was only $130. Inspecting the tread on the summer tires tells me they are done. Will replace them with new summer tires next spring.

Thanks guys for all the birthday wishes. Spent most of the day with our 20 month old grand daughter, which is always fun. I did get a couple hours of seat time mowing leaves while she was taking a nap. It was the big 70, I might look that old, but do not feel near that old. Ron

I don't normally like green things but...

Get 2 rolls of Gorilla tape and wind it around the handle. Instant bigger handle.

I think all will agree, the slow start problem came when the fuel tanks were relocated under the seat. Primer bulbs ended all my slow start problems. Could the answer be one of the three rules of plumbing ? 1. Don't chew your fingernails 2. S@#t doesn't run uphill 3. Payday is on Friday.

If votes counted, I'd vote for the 18 HP Briggs although I do love the sound of a 16 HP single Kohler. I grew up with a couple Briggs and they were pretty tough. I can about 95% assure you that the 16 HP Briggs does NOT have the proper bearings on the crank to support the WH PTO right out of the box. WH used a thrust bearing plate on the back side of the PTO for support whereas the vast majority of Briggs 18 HP twins have ball bearings like most of our Kohler engines do. But, to be sure, look for a 4 in the 5th character on the model number which signifies ball bearings on the crank. On a side note, I am kind of leaning towards the gray/black color scheme over the red when it comes time for a repaint of my 520H. It's grown on me enough that I really like it enough to change up the color palette . The WorkHorses of horse newbie's and c series Don are a fine looking machines.

And if that don’t work, get a biggah hammah!

I've had these top 2 red boxes for 2 or 3 decades. A few weeks ago I bought the bottom black one. Now we can roll the tools around to wherever we need them. As a side bonus I've cleared out a little workbench space where the red boxes used to sit. The bottom drawer of the red box has been broken for longer than I recall. I may have even bought it that way. You can see the scratches on the lip of the box below the drawer. It shouldn't ever drop to touch there. There was a crease where the yellow dot is too. Those are slide type drawers with no bearings. Turns out the slide carriers were badly folded, as you can imagine. I got the bottom red drawer out. Looked at the good drawer holders to see how they're supposed to be shaped. Bent some stuff around. Put it back in and lubed all the drawers. @peter lena would be proud. MUCH better.

I have one to 😬 99-200 I bought it brand new in 2017

Just thought I'd share some pics of my what I assume to be a Senior. I do not believe it is the original engine and as it is stuck, I have bought an AENL for it. Tore it apart 5 years ago but have not touched it since. I ought to get back to it!

So since dune buggy themed, a variation of this…

I meet Jay in June at the 2022 Big Show. He just walked up, introduced himself and his wife, and sat down and talked with Libby and me like he had known us for years/ thank you Redsquare… We had supper with him and his wife at the fairgrounds that afternoon. Till we meet again, Horse Newbie/ Tim

Oh so since you’re not “ technically “ doing it as part of the restoration (“I just want a bigger handle”), then that warranted a complete separate thread… Trying to boost your content count and improve your rank ?

I dunno. I didn't install it. Thanks for the link though. 🙂

Congratulations Mr Collector!

Are you finally ready to admit addiction?

Leave it on and just tape it. It's all I've ever done. Why make more work for yourself? Colossus would have been done 2 years ago!

I run a 48" deck on my C-120 no problem, never had it bog down, but the tractor & deck are both very well maintained.

10 hp cuts through this no problem... 1st gear high. Just my

The Facet pumps are available in a low pressure rating (1 to 2 psi) suitable to our small engines. They work best mounted low and close to the fuel tank since they push fuel better than they pull it. Just sayin'...

Don't forget that the bowls are not airtight. There is an atmospheric vent. Put a few ounces of petrol in a cup and see how long it takes to evaporate.

Just to clarify, these are ball bearings. Roller bearings ride on cylinders instead of balls (and if the cylinders are really small, they are called needle bearings). If you go with sealed bearings (I concur with @ri702bill that these are way to go), @peter lena will advise you to open them and replace the "stock" lube with something like Lucas Red or Green before installing them. Be sure to replace both bearings in each wheel at the same time! I've done this to four tractors now with no issues and I was able to really degrease the wheels in the process so things are a lot cleaner. I even changed the bushing-style bearings on my garden cart over to sealed ball bearings.

I mentioned primer bulbs on here about 7 years ago, even had some poke fun at me about having a boat.

Yes. Don. Tractors don't have slippers.

Here ya be.

Mine never held fuel for very long, not from new and not 31 years later. That includes a total of six carburetors.

I don’t mind a few squeezes on a primer bulb for a quick start….

They don't.

you can leave the old fuel pump installed or make or buy a cover for the opening. I bought one, can't remember the part # off hand, maybe someone can share it. My tractor had the mounting holes already, didn't have to drill any holes for the pump. It was a Faucet low pressure pump a little pricey but you only get what you pay for in my opinion. Cover plate # is 240282. Bob

It's just tin, BEND IT!

You might want to use 10W-30 oil in the winter and 30 in the summer. Other than that, it will be fine.

Usually the main engine pulley is ddifferent which will change the drive belt size. Using the original pulley should keep everything the same

My grandfathers 1848 found me from an unexpected person. It runs but I feel like it may only be firing on 1 cylinder and when I went to move it the other day wouldn’t start (hasn’t been started in 11 months so this isn’t shocking). I’ve been thinking if I can’t figure it out I may repower it. This thread was helpful.

If you are talking will the engines from an automatic wheel horse say a c-160 hydro then yes that is the same engine that would be in a c-160 8 speed. Just using those as an example. The engines were the same the transmissions were different.

Okay I had to do it! Here’s mine, signed by Cecil Pond and currently has 19 original hours on it.

I just returned to the flatland after spending three days high up in the Appalachian Mts. at My BILs cabin. He took a buck and two doe before I got there. I didn't see a shooter buck, so no pics. Here's the cabin he built. Plenty of power on every ridge but none in the cabin. I spent my days in my Bone Collector Tent.

I think I’m gonna have to get new front tires for the bronco 14 if I plan to use the 2 stage this winter. One holds air but the other leaks out and both are pretty dry rotted. Planning on trying to find close to the same style tire.

@Snoopy11 so glad I passed on / interest on mechanical anything to my son , in todays world he is a rare bird indeed , he can ask anything and we can understand each other , and have the same interests in many things . my grandsons have the definite gap , growing up in the tech world , you really have to break down and detail interests , and possibilities , but they pick it up fast , grampa

When putting small engines away for seasonal rest, I try to shut off the fuel valve and run the engine (adding choke as needed) until it stalls from lack of fuel. This takes nearly all of the fuel out of the bowl. On my Techcumseh's and the Briggs Vantage, I use their bowl drains. I expect to do more cranking for these on their first start next season. That said, I'll likely add a primer bulb when next messing with the camp tractor as it spends the longest time hibernating!

Leaving the old pump is ok as long as its internal diaphragm is intact (to prevent the engine from trying to "breathe" through an unfiltered opening). With the diaphragm intact, however, plugging the input & output will not stop it from trying to pump. Several members have removed the pump entirely and fabricated a gasketed plate to seal the opening. That's what I would do.

Yeppir....I was lust tooling around on marketplace and looking around for a used Tundra. Found a single cab with a six banger and a manual that was so much cheaper than the extended cab and v-8 . probably should have travelled to knoxville and looked at it. its gone now. I have had people tell me that buying a manual transmission truck hurts the resale, but i figure that the next buyer who is actually looking fr a manual will be ready to grab one before its gone. My brother put half a million plus 30 K miles on one with no transmission issues at all.

Is it ok If I come along on this journey?

I would be more worred the the rear cylinder fins are full of oil and dirt, mine were when I got it.

I have ben using low pressure electric fuel pumps for several years and have had no failures, The thing that makes me prefer electric over Vacuum or mechanical fuel pumps is the fact that there is no potential for a diaphragm leak to cause gas to contaminate the engine oil. Mount the pump low on the frame so it has a "flooded suction" and wire it to an accessory circuit like the hour meter or directly to the ignition switch "A" terminal. Use a 10 amp inline fuse to protect the wiring.

Also got ahold of @Vinylguy Terry to talk about some slightly custom decals.

Similar story, different tractor...well on the way to recovery here.