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Little excursion today. Something jumped in the back and tagged along. That’s a Bob Ellison seat.

Here's a sneak preview of ground 0 for you. A lot of "shoe man" repairs to chase out of the ole girl. Will start a post when I get into it more.

Got it home! :), and unloaded.

Well I'm sorry to say that the deal didn't finalize for the 312-8. It was a Face Book Market Place add. We just couldn't come to terms. I wanted to know that if I drove four hours that it would be held for me and not be gone. I thought that we came to an agreement but he "wouldn't hold it for anyone" and never listed it as "Pending Sale". It would have been a hundred dollars in fuel and a whole day of driving and testing. I wanted to know that it wasn't a wasted trip. But I should have known that the good Lord had a surprise in store. Last night I saw a new add for a C-160 but I was to tired to look closer. This morning it was still there so I looked at it and found the location. It was an hour and half drive and in great looking shape. He didn't dodge my questions and flat told me that the front tire wasn't holding air and the deck was in rough shape as a '75 deck normally would be. He agreed to hold it until lunch to give me time to get the cash and get there. A totally different attitude than the other. I went and saw the C-160 that was a "single owner/family" The guys Father in Law bought it in MI and this guy wound up with it. He said that his Wife (the buyer's daughter) hated to see it go but he needed it out of the way. It hadn't been used in quite a while. He had a charge on the battery and it fired right up. I got it for a reasonable price considering that the deck will need to be replaced soon. Definitely not a wasted trip. I like the style of these older "C" series WH's over the 300 series.

Really a 2 weekend project.... installed reduction steering kit on the 520-H along with new boots around the steering rod ends as well as fluid filled the rear tires. I did not have good luck steering in the snow with the tri rib front tires so I took them off and installed 5 ribs. Also got the snow removal fleet ready for winter.

Spent the morning getting my snow equipment ready. Oil changes, new wear bar on the plow & every thing greased up. The rest of the gang got prepped for hibernation. Bring on winter!! I guess....

You will never be able to keep that seat clean… better sell the tractor to me…

@ebinmaine (Me and the tractor were having conversations!) The black hood and headlights were starring at me for about 2 hours, and it looked angry at me and said “there’s no motor in me!” and I said “Oh, don’t you worry!”😀 It was a great trip, me and Jake had fun!

I pulled a tractor out of storage to see if I could get it running today. I acquired this tractor a few years ago as a non-runner. Brought it home, stuffed it in storage and have not touched until today. Unfortunately things did not go real well. I hooked a battery up, hit the starter button, & ...... NOTHING. Grabbed the pulley on the fly wheel to find that it would not move at all. I decided to remove the starter/gen belt in order to get a better grip on the fly wheel pulley. Surprise!!! the engine turns over like it should. Bad news the S/G is locked up tight. Lets roll through what I found. First, just to let you know how tight this S/G was locked up. I was able to remove the pulley nut with a wrench, without holding the shaft at all. Which leads to the first issue that I've found. Any one see an issue with this nice pulley that a PO installed? May be this will add a clue. Correct me if I'm wrong but shouldn't there be a key way cut inside the pulley?? Wonder how the PO thought this would work. Issue 2 with the pulley - It bottoms out on the case of the S/G when it is tightened down. Is this what was locking the S/G up??? Well not exactly. Broke it open to see what the deal was. Tapped the rear plate loose and it rotated easy as pie on the bearing, After removing the rear bearing plate I found this lovely mess. Removed the front bearing plate & things did not get any better. The rotor was actually rusted to the magnets, this is what was locking the S/G up. Sprayed every thing down with Sea Foam Deep Creep and left it sit for a while. After a while I was able to get the rotor to slide out of the case. Nasty mess here. Going to take some effort to try & save this mess, may not be able to save it at all. Goin' to give it a try though.

Picked up a 418-8 yesterday. Needs a lot of TLC. First thing that needs to go is the that ugly yellow seat! The 48" deck sheet metal is beyond repair but has good gator blades and the spindles look decent.

But i'll offer you $1 more than @Horse Newbie...

Jeffrey loves his Wheel Horses !!

They must have been a factory option. My 953 had one just like that.

Wheel Horse restore manual transmission warning— If you’re like me, you are the original one owner of an old manual transmission horse and want to get it running again and stop when your allowance is all used up. Mine is a 1975 C120 8-Speed, I have an about new (1994) 42” mower deck and a 36” tiller I love and I’m going to use the both again. Among a hundred other things I let the transmission drain good tilting the tractor to get as much old fluid as possible. This is a picture of what came out. Top it off with new 85-140 gear oil and check transmission off, right? NO, WRONG, I WASN’T FINISHED. I took a plastic drink straw and poked around as best I could through the small check level hole to see if I could determine if everything was feeling good. IT WASN’T. There was about one to one and a half inches of heavy gunk in the transmission floor. I never changed the fluid while using the tractor per wheel horse recommendation, it has been parked in a garage for 20 years. Action I took. I put about 5 gallons of diesel fuel through the transmission exercising the gear box on each fill up until the diesel drained about clear. I did the straw test after each time I drained it, about 15. The gunk was completely undetectable when I finished. I’m also doing this diesel flush on my tiller gear box too. Refilling them with the prescribed gear lube. This problem would have eventually hurt my horse transition. WillieChaffin

Thanks so much Pfrederi and Pacer for helping me get my D-160 clutch brake installed it works great, even if it was a royal pain in the a$$ to install, and thanks to 76c12091520H for sending me the part I needed. I really wanted my tiller tines to stop at the end of a run and they do. I don't want to knock any other site, but you don't get the same amount of knowledgeable information from Facebook groups or other GT sites as you do here.

This group is the best. Tons of knowledge and most people that are willing to help!

Ready for winter!

Any excuse for a drink is good enough for me.

I might just sell it to one of you. I was going over it today and saw that the transmission fluid was low but still on the stick and went to looking for leaks and found a ring of plastic on the shaft between the tranny and wheel hub. I recognized it as part of the seal so I jacked up the whole back end and found that the bearing needs to be replaced. ): I don't have a shop to do the tear down. A good friend volunteered to let me work in his and use his dad in law's press. But I would rather be taking wildlife pictures than working in a cold shop. That good friend did ask for first shot at buying it if I do decide to sell it.

Did not do this today… But here are a few pics of how my shop floor looked nine years ago after I had just finished coating it with Valspar epoxy floor coating.

Worse here vids will have to wait. I hear ya Darbs not that I would thumb my nose at a bruiser. Cindy got a nice little 6 this AM. I gutted it out where we can see the pile from the cabin and by the time we got it hung ther were crows & 3 eagles snacking on it. I threw a trail cam on it so might be some pics.

From what I've read those washout ports don't seem to work all that well. I think you would need one for each blade area. Even then the areas that are prone to clumping would still need scraping. I've thought about making a pipe with three nozzles pointing up that I can slide under the deck, but the hose underneath works OK. Be sure to let it dry out before putting away.

Observing the rest of the morning, then I’ll be cleaning a doe this afternoon. She’s nowhere near as large as the buck!

You gave me an idea @ebinmaine.. Would'nt be too hard to make somekind of 'manifold' to direct the streams of water where you want it. Or several garden hose attachment points..

Great buy, the C-160 is a great tractor and yours looks well cared for. You have the best looking three piece seat I've seen in a long time. What ever you do don't use Armorall spray, the seat will be so slippery you can't drive it. Keep it clean and out of the sun and you should be fine.

Always handy to have information at hand when you need it. Endless pages of manuals on hand 24-7. Glade that your D work out for you.

I like the seats better also. They look like a well broken in leather; they're not are they? What should be applied to keep it looking good and not crack? And that steering wheel cap tops it off.

Hello everyone. I have recently acquired my late uncle's Raider 10. The tractor is complete along with the mower deck that is removed and stored in a covered building. The deck appears to be 36". The tractor has sat at least for 3 years and I think with a good carb cleaning, fresh fluids, fresh battery, and fresh air in the tires, it should run just fine. Someone in the past has done an amateur respray which can be cleaned up with with some fresh decals, etc. I'm looking forward to getting to know this machine and putting it to use. I've never owned one of these so I have to learn a bit about how the pulley system works when hooking up the mower deck. It also has an electric PTO which I don't know if this is an add on or original. Serial number states 1 0300 G which leads me to believe it is a 1971 model. I'll attach a few pictures. I look forward to getting to know you guys.

Yes, exactly. The idea is the water flying off the blades at mach speed will 'pressure wash' the underside of the deck. It does take the looser stuff off but doesn't do much for the clumps that tend to build up, and those are the bad things. Takes a long time for those to dry out and longer time for acidic rust to form. When I do mine with the hose I put a brick on the seat switch. An OSHA approved brick of course!

@ebinmaine I really would love to get a C-160 ! But Maine is a little far… You not gonna send someone down to break my legs if I get a C-160 are ya Godfather ?

Thanks @ebinmaine…

I only spent about 10 minutes on it when we used "Big Betty Baloo" my 2 seater D160 to pull it from the storage building to the garage. Was comfortable enough I guess but it felt like it pushed me too far forward. Could be made to work with some adjustments. That seat is not staying though. Need to find or make one that is closer to factory.

Yeah, mixer and regulator, probably safety shutoff, I've never done one. Kohler used to have kits, don't know if still available. There are third party kits, uscarb.com comes up on Google, don't know what their quality is like. Probably others. And IIRC the propane motors had higher compression heads, so you might lose a bit of power. Not in my wheelhouse, I'm just sort of aware peripherally, maybe others on here are more expert.

Tractor drive belt # 7478 replaces # 4535 (HB/5L x 84.22" or 5/8" x 84.22") 5-7366 Drive belt 9360 (1/2" x 95.63") [1/2" x 97" in ipl looks wrong] Spindle belt 8411 (1/2" x 76.94") 4567 bearing or https://www.partstree.com/parts/toro-4567/

I had to go out and look. For some reason I thought my 604 hood was little more squared off at the nose. But you guys are right looks the same

He looks all cozy there. Napping in his piggy blanket.

This is something I’m not sure how often I’ll ever be able to post. Ronnie Adams from Swamp people is here hunting in MO with us. Since I tagged out, I’m the cook today! He brought a 7’ gator. Teeth to tail! We injected two bottles of Tony Chachere Garlic and Herb injection sauce into the legs, body, and tail. We then tossed it on the Traeger and covered it with 5 lbs of bacon! It’s supposed to run about 225 for 6 hours. It’s super windy and cold, so we bumped the machine up to 255. I’ll check it after 4.5 hours but have no temp gauge. It needs to be fork tender to be done. This is a trip I doubt I’ll forget soon!

Should I enroll him in the Edog Home School of Taxidermy Jim? On second thought, that would require using sharp knives, scalpels, and large needles.

Nice. Looks pretty decent from where i'm sitting. Also, that's one of those boat seats right? How does that sit comfort wise?

Massachusetts used to have a week or sometimes two between archery and shotgun season, most years Thanksgiving week is the best week for the rut. Back then archery was only three weeks and shotgun one week, black power three days. Now six weeks archery, two shotgun, black power until 12/31. Great season but can get like a job.

Agreed on both points above. The advantage to installing your own port is you can put it wherever it needs to be, the most.

I've read that vinyl is best cleaned with water and a bit of dish soap.

You'll likely be just fine keeping that pattern. There are decks with garden hose attachment points on top. From my reading I'd say the position of the attachment is paramount to them working appropriately, if at all. @Snoopy11 Great work so far!!

Your Charger 12 has the Sundstrand Hydro-Gear model 90-2046 (or similar) power unit. Here is an overhaul .pdf to aid in refurb when needed.. SUNDSTRAND HYDROGEAR refurb.pdf

Seems like your being a little evasive on the model of this tractor @Achto Of course a few days ago A big mouse mentioned that y’all both had 953/1054’s that y’all should be working on. I’m goin to sit back and take notes as I’m hoping you do your majic on one of them as your winter project.

So I need a obtain a full rebuild kit for the carb I put in a makeshift spring for the fuel needle on the float its now closing and holding from a quick run with new lines.

10-4 That ! No other group even comes close to the knowledge and willingness that we have here.

We can also see the broken tap in that hole now. Glad it worked out and it's probably a better set up now. Other things to do are to add rubber paddles to the the impeller so they don't leave that space between them and the housing. But securing the gear box to the housing helps too with keeping everything steady. I wore my first set of rubber paddles prematurely because of the movement. Securing the auger gearbox solved it. ( Although it smelled like a car doing a burnout when they're first added) Another good item for maintenance/performance is to flatten the 2 surfaces for the PTO pulleys. I use a belt sander for the metal and sandpaper on a small block for the clutch pad material. Makes a huge difference if those 2 mating surfaces aren't on full contact now. If the PTO pulleys are getting hot under load , they're slipping so more contact area helps. Add motorized chute controls too

Our friend @AHS Andrew found a great deal on an engine local to him and wanted a chassis for it. Today he stopped by our house with his friend Jake to pick it up along with a K301 12 HP engine for his Dad. @SylvanLakeWH Jim you'll be happy to know this here Black Hood tractor found a great new home.

Todays progress on the plow while I was at work. Looks pretty decent to me. Minus the pitting. Brought Alex down to check it out and get his approval and he’s very happy.