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All assembled! We might meet with them tonight for dinner. I’m looking forward to giving it to them!

Time for stainless hardware from the store, and some T stands for feet.

Time to give HHHOOOWWWAAARRRDDD!!! some love. New brake band, carb overhaul, points and condenser. Removed flywheel to clean up and mark the spark line.

I’ll cut the long end of the tube and get working on some feet. I was going to make it a tripod, but little welded feet should work just fine too.

I should order one for myself before sharing this… I have a feeling the seat prices can’t stay this low forever @JoeM turned me on to www.surpluscenter.com for hydraulic supplies. They have great prices on various other things, like tire and wheel assemblies, and tractor seats! I especially like the $128.10 price on the half wrap suspension seat! That would be like a couch on wheels for plow days, etc!

I got some VERY well built tables and carts from my work yesterday. In past years our store was responsible for building window casing extension jams for some of the windows we sold along with occasionally shutters. Also, a lot of warranty repairs were done out of our branch. A decade or two ago a guy built a 4 x 8 ft table with 4x4 PT legs and 3/4 vinyl board solid one-piece top. Also, a router table constructed the same way, perhaps 30x40 inches? The other two things are rolling carts slightly larger than the router table that were used to hold the pieces during assembly. None of these have been used in several years and inventory is coming up so we're reorganizing a little as we do every year. Well, out they go!!! I happened to be in the right place at the right time and asked about them. I've been wanting a real live router table for eons. The rolling carts will be rebuilt slightly and repurposed. Perhaps one is a table saw holder? The big table will be fortified a bit more and used as a workspace for whatever the BBT is uptah.

So, I married a couple on the 22nd of last month (they didn’t marry me though) and I’ve been waiting for this sign to get cut. Time for a stand. They just recently purchased a diesel pusher and we thought a great gift would be a sign for their campsite. It does need to be easy to assemble and store. I have some 1/2” conduit that I’ll start with. I taped 12” and backed Poppy onto the tube, then worked it around the tire. I hope to be able to get it a true 180 degree bend.

And if i do a plumbing job and nothing leaks.......I have overlooked something!

Looking around the shop, I realized 1/2” pex snug fits inside 1/2” conduit. I pressed it in about 10” or so, then cut it off. Now my legs won’t be metal on metal, making noise all day.

I don’t care who you are, that’s funny right there!

You wouldn't be able to reach the clutch pedal!

Yet Another Great Wheel Horse Application (YAGWHA!)

Hello again everyone...it's been a few years since I have been on here and I'm excited to be back in the "club" so to speak. After having sold my C-160 back several years ago I've been "horse less." I've found a little guy I'm going to pick up here in a few days and wanted to know if anyone could help me identify it? The person I'm buying it from doesn't really know anything about it apparently and just said it's a 1961 Wheel Horse. To me it looks like an RJ58? Apparently it has a 4hp Kohler and appears to be pretty straight and mostly complete. Y'all have a keen eye for this so what have I gotten into? Thanks in advance! 🙂

Kevin, we had lots of , some were even close ups of your hands. Not a drop of blood or a bandage to be seen, you sure you did this job. Nice work.

875

If the fuel lines have hardened they will leak air into them at the hose barbs under vacuum but not leak fuel out. Soft rubber will grip the barbs and not leak. When an air bubble enters the fuel all the pump does is increase the size of the bubble and each pulse does not last long enough to bring fuel with it.

Me too. I've got the same setup, plastic female onto the tank tee. I've gotten into the habit of putting a hose clamp around the outside of the female fitting to give it a little more strength. I also use a plastic rated pipe dope, and ONE or TWO wraps of teflon on top of the dope. Too much teflon tape is IMO not a good thing because it 'cold flows' and the joint will loosen and leak over time. I might also think about adding some support under that horizontal piece in front of the tank, and some way to prevent that pipe from getting banged into if there's any 'traffic' in the vicinity. Old PVC gets brittle and it doesn't take much to snap it off.

Broke from overtightening looks to me. Probably stress cracked on install and just finally blew. At least you were home. This usually happens when you go on vacation , on a holiday or the middle of a night! If I ever have to thread a plastic piece into metal I try to go with schedule 80 plastic or tape the snot out of the threads and go light on the tightening

That, Kevin, sounds like a personal issue.... !!

The Suburban is a fun little tractor that has one interesting trick, If you don't let the clutch out slowly it will do a wheel stand! Your Model 400 has all the hard to find and very high priced options; exhaust shield, foot rests, belt guard, tool box with fenders and even a recoil starter. Good looking unit.

Twin lever controls make it a 1960 Suburban.

How do you figure? I think the Suburbans were vastly improved over RJs. Sure the RJ was simpler, but the Suburban (551) introduced the two-piece cased uni-drive. That design lasted 70+ years! And you can actually steer a Suburban...

At this rate, your new barn might already be too small.

No idea Jimbo... new to me... four year warranty tho. Regardless if commercial or home owner use .

OK here's the skinny on what is really going on. You have a 4 stroke engine that uses gasoline/oil mix as lubricant instead of haveing oil in the crank case. https://www.stihlproline.ca/en/landscaping/revolutionary-4-mix-technology

What I am going to call the final photos... Don

So, I've been kicking around some ideas, and have some parts & scrap metal spread out on the garage floor while I brainstorm these ideas. I want to mostly use what I have and keep this as low-budget as possible, but can buy some stuff if it makes sense. My first goal is to mount my small 12v winch to one of my tractors. However, I want it to be movable and as versatile as possible. What I'm considering, since I have an extra front mule plate (the one that the mule actually attaches to), I thought I could do this: 1. Weld the mule mount plate to the appropriate parts so it can be mounted on the BACK of the tractor in place of the regular hitch. 2. Weld up a 2" hitch receiver (already have one) so that it will attach to the mule mount plates, just like a mule does. (Yes, I know I can buy one of these, but they aren't exactly cheap. Plus, it's always fun to make yer own stuff). Once I have #1 & #2 done, I can put just about anything that goes into a 2" receiver on either the front or the back of the tractor. I have one of those rectangular cargo trays that would come in handy sometimes, to start. 3. Next, I want to put together a plate/bracket with 2" insert, that holds my winch. However, I also think it should include a battery box for a 12v car battery to run the winch, otherwise much "winching" will kill the tractor battery. 4. I'm also considering trying to make a boom that uses the winch to lift heavy things. I've seen some ideas around this on the site, maybe that I can adapt to my needs. It would be best if the winch could be used with or without the boom attached, so maybe adding another 2" receiver aimed up, and 2" square stock for the boom (at least the bottom part) would be one way of doing that. Of course, all this stuff will be painted Regal Red. If anyone has ideas along these lines, or links to other related ideas here at Red Square they could share, I would most appreciate it! If I get around to sketching out what I've described, I'll share that.

I use this stuff for pipe threads and can be used with potable water to gasoline. Don't nearly have to tighten the fittings as much. Will not work on CPVC or ABS tho.

The sign is assembled to the hoop and the legs are on the scrap heap / paint booth drying.

No picking on Randy , he suffers enough rooming with squonk at the BS

Some 3/8” solid rod, 3/4” angle iron, and nifty fasteners should finish this out well. I’m going to attempt to turn the rods down to a shoulder, drill a small hole in the center of the angle, then weld it together from the back side.

Slick. And nifty having piles of materials around!

You think that’s funny, your little buddy Randy wouldn’t be able to reach the shifter!

Who needs to steer??

Y'all done good........

Then a 1960 400 Suburban…. Either way, nice ride!

Yep. Can't believe I'm gonna say this, but... Just squeeze until they firm up and you're ready to go.

Download last file for wiring diagram. Orange wire from rectifier goes to "R" terminal on Ignition switch, Light Green from "B" terminal to - side of Ammeter, + Ammeter terminal goes to the battery... This is the charging circiut, DC electricity flows from negative to positive, the key switch stops this connection when off. It doesn't matter which color wire you use to rewire it as long as they are hooked up correctly. I always use 12 gauge wire. Make sure the voltage regulator housing is grounded good too, I run a ground wire from one of the bolts to a GOOD ground ( negative ).

I cleaned up all the useless drivel, let’s keep this on track guys. @Duramax7man7 (Mastiffman) you didn’t say if you were moving the trailer on level ground or not. I assume with 1/2 an acre you aren’t going far.. like 75’ or so? I would think on level ground you would be fine. Full throttle and take it slow. I suspect the rear tires will spin on the grass before the transmission could be damaged. If the area you are moving the trailer on is sloped I would be more concerned with the ability to stop.

What kinda beer you drink Plunge? Been ther done that Bob...

NPT threads are by name tapered and act like a wedge when tightened. I assume the fitting broke at a parting line?? Not surprised. Years ago, I designed a custom ported Delrin grease dispensing head, per the customer's request and approval. Delrin is a laminate - two halves that habe a banana shape are bonded together to cancel each other out to get a straight part - until you tap it for a 1/8 NPT female thread on the parting line! It lasted 2 shifts until it split in two....

I apologize in advance for the watermarks on these pictures, but you should be able get what you need from the images. These pictures are from a B-100. Routing is the same on a C-100.

Now I see it. Probably lost too many brain cells. Eighty years of washing up in gasoline, lacquer thinner and acetone could be taking it's toll.