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Hello all! It's been a while since I posted . . . I live in FL now so it's 6 months of warm weather twice a year. I've been working part-time so between that, boating, motorcycles, mowing 5 acres and having a machete accident that set me back a few months, life got busy. Anyway, I live 40 minutes from Leesburg, FL. My wife and I attended shows/tractor-pulls at the Paquette IH Museum and grounds every year. Sadly, the owner Stew Paquette passed way in March this year. The family decided to sell the entire collection and grounds which was auctioned off last week. I didn't want to let a piece of Florida history get lost forever, so we bought one of the collection. We bought a 1940 Farmall H, that originally came from the collection of Richard "Pinky" Provost. His tractors ended up at the museum when he retired to FL and passed way in 2014. So, it's not a Wheel Horse, but IT IS RED! We picked it up last Friday. Oddly, this is what I originally wanted in 2010, but didn't have room for a big tractor when I lived in PA, so I went with Wheel Horses. Now I have room, so... I posted it here because the other thing I learned over the years is there is no other tractor forum as good as this one

Yep ... they come a lookin for me. First off the Dino bought over this fine little RR-55 for me. We batted back and forth some PMs about it and that I have no more room at the inn but it is in really good shape for a '65. The price was a four letter word but not to turn one away. @prondzy got it to pop abit but prolly needs a carb cleaning. Make matters worse i already have a RE-67 that is giving me fits. Oh well i found a stable for it 'till i can find some time to love it. Like a few others here I just have a soft spot for them.

Brought home a free to me head sanding plate. Left overs from a bath remodel my brother did.

This is an original 502. It was my Dad's. One piece tank, 13 hole round seat (the square seat was on the 702), no battery, but came with the rare tool tray where a battery would go, these are the original tires and the engine was a HT55C-3088P recoil 5.5 HP, had the 5025 transmission. The serial # on this is 62-18107. I'm not picking Jim's apart, it's hard to find the HT44C-3088P engine anymore and that tool tray is rare. Just saying what is original if Jim is going to try to make it original again.

Hood is in good shape and some working bug eyes on it . Now Dan back me up here... did the guy not say he had it running recently? Bullroar... battery was stone cold dead and dated to '05 . Dropped the bowl to find this... Gas in in it was more yellow and stank than Dan's pee. Just for S&Gs I wiped the bowl out and got it to run. Not bad for a tecky H60. No top end so something plugged yet. Not even gonna mess with it. Ordered a new one ... 9.99 cheap Chinese will be fine. 'Sides I may drop a 8 I have on this girl and have the rare 802.

So Dan and I went to a show abit ago and had a couple of guys to come up and tell us they have some horses they want to part with. Like most of the guys who say they have one they have no idea what it is. I give him my card and lo and behold he emails me with some pics of what appears to be a 502. So I says I get some time I'll come look at it. Easy 4 hour + round trip tho and was not real interested. Tractor heavy... no room at the inn ya know. But I mention to the guy about plow day and of course invite him. I be go to hell if he doesn't show up at the plow field with this girl in the back of an enclosed. So Dan and I were about ready to drop into a furrow and I says Dan let's go check this this tractor out before we get busy. So we do and after a bit of dickerin agree on a price. Has the plow you see and a decent shape 36? Or 32? RD deck. So who am I to pass on a roundy?

Heat stress for 1 thing. Quite often I find the bolt threads all goobered up from rust, carbon, gunk , carbunkles ect . Cheap (fairly cheap insurance)

If the toe is correct, drive the roll pins out and run a 5/16 bit though before you cut the welds apart

Hard to believe that three years have come and gone since my last post in this thread. I had the privilege to attend Jim&Cindy’s plow day VII this past Saturday and the plowing was great as was the weather. However, I ran into another glitch with GhostRider that I will soon remedy. I broke the lift cable. Granted, I’m lifting a very heavy 12” Brinly plow…many times snagging it from heavy soil while in motion. The electric lift is working great so far but it is powerful and I’m sure adds to the pressure on the cable. I need to decide at this point if I’m going “travel with a back-up cable” or if I’m going to come up with a stronger solution. I’m not 100% sure which route I’m going to take but I’ll post it here once I’ve got it figured out… This young man got to plow for the first time on GhostRider and he seemed to enjoy it! Zach took multiple rounds!

As usual lots of PO cobblements.. oh well ... comes with the turf I guess. Rites of passage removing them Richard?!?! @953 nut Me thinks the carb has seen better days anyway!

Trina wanted me to put these on...

Here’s few of my favorites

He hasn’t found one yet but good old dads got a few for him to drive. 😂

Boo!

Got the front sided today amongst other things....

Believe this is section 18 Tighten the trunion #14 clockwise to shorten the pto link. The handle should snap down with some authority when applied. Try 2 turns.

All better!

You'll lose most of your instrumentation (unless you change some guages and wiring), but I'm a believer in Vanguards. I have four of them, and they are good engines. We'll never get K-series or Onans again, so comparisons are hit and miss at best. Vanguards are a solid replacement. They have thier own issues like any engine, but they are solid.

Sounds like Dan needs to patent his pee as a fuel tank "preservative" ...maybe I should try it on a couple old gas tanks in the shop. Will definitely make for some conversation parts.

Roll Pins and brown welds are a rite of passage, that is a cutting edge get out the grinder (pun intended) and hope for the best!

. Shhh.... Definitely. Not sure if I've mentioned it back in this thread or not. It doesn't pass building code so Trina and I may or may not possibly soon or never make one AFTER the crew leaves and the Code Enforcement Officer signs off. Maybe. IIFF we do make a hole it would be for long things (boards etc) that don't fit up the stairs. Nothing upstairs will be so heavy we can't carry it up the stairs.

Your regulator is grounded thru the mounting bolt, make sure that it makes a good electrical connection there.

For a little more, id buy something like this instead:

Have you considered outing a Kohler twin or single in it. A K341 will power a 48” deck or plow no problem

A little birdie put the idea into the Dino's head but I ain't sayin who!

Just because you asked…

What's the deal here? Looks like one a them greenies caught like a lightning bug in a jar!

I just rebuilt a k-181 and noticed a couple of them were questionable by the exhaust mainly and would come loose even after re torquing a couple time so decided to replace. Cheap insurance as Mr Squonk noted . Thanks for the response !

If it’s anything like Blake Shelton’s, it could be used as a carbureted fuel fluid for a good 3 hp gain on a K-91!

Here is information from Brian Miller's web site. Differences Between the Kohler K-series and Magnum Engine Blocks - Unlike the old school small- and big-block Chevy V8's, the Kohler K-series and Magnum engine block models K241, M10, K301, M12, K321, M14, K341 and M16 are not all the same. There are several variations in bolt patterns and PTO end flange configurations between these blocks. Before replacing an engine block and if possible, the best thing to do is have the original engine rebuilt, then all the original accessories will attach to the original block with no modifications. But if the original engine block is not rebuildable and damaged beyond repair, another block of the same type (specification number) will need to be acquired. If interested in purchasing a bare block, please email me several detailed, sharp photos of your original engine block taken at all sides so I match it to one I may have in stock. Packaged shipping weight for each bare block is 45 lbs. The Major Differences Between the K241, M10, K301, M12, K321, M14, K341 and M16 Kohler Engine and Blocks - The K241 and M10 blocks have a STD cylinder bore of 3.250" and the stroke is 2.875". All of these blocks have an exhaust valve diameter of 1.125" and the intake is 1.375". Some rare K241 blocks have "K301" embossed on the PTO end. These have a thicker cylinder wall than ordinary K241 blocks. The K301 and M12 blocks have a STD cylinder bore of 3.375" and the stroke is 3.250". There are no other major differences between these two blocks. These blocks have the same size valves, and most external parts will interchange. Due to the smaller cubic inch displacement, which lessens the amount of air that enters the engine, theses engines use a Carter or Kohler #26, or Walbro #52 (1.07" throttle bore) carburetor. The K321 and M14 blocks have a STD cylinder bore of 3.500' and the stroke is 3.250". There are no other major differences between the K241, M10, K301, M12, K321 or M14 engines. The early K321 blocks have an exhaust valve diameter of 1.125", and the valves in the later K321 blocks are the same diameter, which is 1.375". Some internal, but most external parts on the K241, M10, K301, M12, K321 and M14 engines will interchange, with the exception of the early style K241 cylinder head and size of the carburetor. Due to the larger cubic inch displacement, which increases the amount of air that enters the engine, the K321 and M14 engines use either a larger Carter or Kohler #28 or #30, or Walbro #60 (1.17" or 1.2" throttle bore) carburetor. The K341 and M16 blocks have a STD cylinder bore of 3.750" and the stroke is 3.250". There are no other major differences between the K241, M10, K301, M12, K321, M14, K341 or M16 engines, except the valves are the same diameter, 1.375". And the K341 and M16 blocks have 10 cylinder head bolts. Due to the larger cubic inch displacement, which increases the amount of air that enters the engine, the K341 and M16 engines also use a #30 (1.2" throttle bore) carburetor. And most external parts, except the cylinder head and air shields, will interchange with the K241, M10, K301, M12, K321, M14, K341 and M16 engines. The Major Differences Between the Kohler K-series and Magnum Engine Blocks - Some Kohler blocks have wide base flanges (for the wide, deep oil pan) and some have a narrow base with no flanges. (These are used on Cub Cadet, Ford, certain John Deere and Wheel Horse garden tractors.) Most Magnum blocks are wide base, and very few are narrow base. The very early K241 10hp blocks have no indentation for installing an upper mount gear starter (mounting bolts are below the starter motor). Also, some of these older blocks with flanges have no holes drilled for converting to a narrow base oil pan. (But holes can be drilled and tapped.) Some blocks have either a drilled or threaded oil dipstick tube hole next to the cylinder, above the crankcase, while others have no hole present. Some blocks have provisions for a starter-side oil dipstick tube, and some don't. Some blocks came with counterbalance gears and some didn't. Some have expansion plugs where balance gear stub shafts can be installed, and although certain blocks have the bosses, some have no holes drilled for the stub shafts. All Kohler Magnum blocks have no provisions for ignition points. Some blocks have two threaded holes for installing an exhaust pipe flange, and some don't. Some blocks have provisions to install a mechanical fuel pump, and some don't. Some blocks have different bolt patterns on the PTO end, and Gravely blocks have a raised circular flange. (See below.) Some K241 blocks with K301 embossed on the PTO end have a thicker cylinder wall, and some K241 blocks without the K301 embossing have an ordinary thickness cylinder wall. The 12 fin K341 blocks have an ordinary thickness cylinder wall, and the 13 fin K341 blocks have a thicker cylinder wall. Other than all of the before mentioned È, everything else on the Kohler K-series engine blocks are pretty much the same. The Differences Between the Old Kohler K-series and the Newer Kohler Magnum Engines - The Magnum engines replaced the K-series in later years. The Magnum engines are basically the same engine as the K-series. The main differences are, besides the baffle shields (sheet metal) that covers the block, the Magnum has solid state ignition, a fixed main jet (Walbro) carburetor and the starter motor fastens to the OEM bearing plate instead of the engine block. And there are no provisions for using ignition points. Most of the external and all the internal parts are interchangeable, and most aftermarket (high performance) parts are interchangeable with either engine. A Kohler K-series and Magnum M10, M12, M14 and M16 single cylinder engines will fit in place of a Kohler K241 or M10 engine. These all basically have the same external dimensions, with the exception of the 16hp, which has a larger cylinder. Kohler engines are like the old school small block or big block Chevrolet V8 engines. A small block 400 CID engine can be used in place of a 265 CID engine, and a big block 572 CID [crate] engine can be used in place of a 366 CID [truck] engine, because they basically have the same external dimensions. The main difference with Kohler engines is the bolt patterns on the PTO end of the block. Each block is made specifically for the garden tractor, small motorized vehicle or lawn and garden equipment it goes in. When replacing an engine block with another, make sure the bolt pattern matches that of the original block so the PTO accessories, braces and brackets can be bolted on with no modifications. The Kohler Magnum engine models M10, M12, M14 and M16 can be used in any Cub Cadet garden tractor. The majority of the Magnum 10-16hp single cylinder engines have flanges at the base. Therefore, the block will need to be converted into a narrow base by cutting off the flanges on each side and then cut new threads in the holes in the block for the narrow oil pan. And the other parts that's needed are: a K-series large OEM bearing plate with an upper mount gear starter (mounting bolts are below the starter motor), or a small K-series OEM bearing plate with a starter/generator; a small or large diameter K-series flywheel with a matching flywheel shroud and baffle shields (sheet metal); and being there's no provisions for ignition points and no points lobe on the Magnum camshaft, Kohler's Breakerless Ignition or crank trigger ignition will need to be used. Also, because of the 3/8" flywheel retaining bolt, an aluminum clutch hub adapter with a 3/8" hole will need to be used, acquire a 5/8"-3/8" reducer/step washer. (I make these.) Everything else should fit in the tractor with no problems. Only eight models of the 10-16hp Kohler Magnum single cylinder cast iron block engines was manufactured as a narrow base. The specification numbers for these are as follows: M10, specification #'s 461509, 461534 (Cub Cadet garden tractor model 1050); M12, specification #'s 471512, 471514, 471570 (Cub Cadet garden tractor model 1210); M14, specification #'s 601512, 601513; and M16, specification # 711536. All other 10-16hp Magnum engine block specification numbers are a wide base. Any Kohler Magnum single cylinder 10-16hp engine would be excellent to pull with. The only problem is, being these come with solid state ignition, with no provision for ignition points, if a steel flywheel is going to be used, a crank trigger ignition system will be needed, too. Also, if the engine has counterbalance gears, they will definitely need to be removed because one or the other could break, destroying the block and other parts. For most engines, it does absolutely no good to reinstall them. Most Kohler engines don't come with them and in most engines, they do very little to reduce engine vibration. When left out, the engine should not vibrate more than usual. Being balance gears are made of cast iron material and operate [out of balance] on a single, narrow needle bearing for support, they've been known to break and destroy the crankshaft, camshaft and engine block. I've seen this happen to a good engine a few times. Therefore, I highly recommend leaving them out. But if the engine vibrates excessively with the absence of the balance gears, the flywheel and/or crankshaft will need to be dynamically and precision spin-balanced to reduce engine vibration. Click or tap here to learn more about flywheel and/or crankshaft balancing. For a steel flywheel, visit Midwest Super Cub's website. How to Convert a Single Cylinder Kohler K-Series Engine into a Magnum Engine - To convert the Kohler K-series K241, K301, K321 or K341 engine into a Magnum M10, M12, M14 or M16 engine, the parts that's needed are: Magnum OEM bearing plate; starter motor (the support brackets for the starter are for mounting of the starter solenoid only. They do not support the starter motor whatsoever); flywheel (w/external magnet); plastic cooling fan assembly; flywheel shroud; solid state ignition coil w/mounting screws; plastic inner air baffle; cylinder head (cover) and cylinder (side) baffles (sheet metal). The only difference in these baffles is the M10, M12 and M14 all share the same baffles over the cylinder head and on the cylinder, and the M16 use different (larger) baffles. The Kohler points pushrod hole will also need to be plugged with a Briggs & Stratton points plunger plug. And when installing the bearing plate, the cam pin hole will need to be sealed with clear RTV silicone adhesive sealant because the Magnum bearing plate will not cover the hole. By the way - I've always preferred to use clear RTV silicone adhesive sealant for three reasons: Due to metal any warpage (which is unavoidable in most cases), gaskets don't always seal the irregularities and imperfections between mating surfaces, especially thin metal covers; being it's an adhesive, it bonds parts together, forming a leak-proof seal; and being it's clear, a thin bead of clear RTV silicone adhesive sealant makes for a clean and professional-looking repair job. It can't be easily seen or noticed between the parts. FYI - Solid state ignition provides a more stable ignition timing than points ignition. The ignition timing for a K-series engine is less stable because the points operate off the camshaft, which has a tendency to "move around" a few thousandths of an inch while the engine is running, which effects the ignition timing. Flywheel-triggered ignition timing, such as the Magnum solid state ignition, is more stable because it operates off the crankshaft, which doesn't "move around" as much as the camshaft. One thing is lessened and another is gained with either ignition system. [Return To Previous Paragraph, Section or Website]